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Color scheme is a copy of HRC Works RVF racers combined colors and graphics to provide a muscular character... I understand it doesn't appeal to everyone... however it does appeal to the young at heart...

I had some luck via Ebay buying a 'Denso PR-10 3201' which looks identical to 16740-P8A-M01 and is expected to be 3.0bar. Some searches on 16740-P8A-M01 confirmed that this items is indeed engraved Denso PR-10 3201. Another alternative for 3.0 bar (next to the earlier noted DS Group 11142A) is Delphi FP10508.

The front fender interchangeability you've mentioned would not surprise me at all. I've already confirmed that the entire RC51/929/954 range is interchangeable. That is how I have managed to obtain perfectly colour-matched mudguards for both my yellow and blue 5th gens (which both sport RC51/SP1/SP2 forks). Many of the available colours were not sold in the US, but I believe many of them were (especially the 929/954). Ciao, JZH

Too much porridge?

Haha, ying and yang. Yes, I grew up in NE. And yes against my better judgement fired the bike up and slid around on the sand for 20 minutes because I had to. Sometimes you have to. Today my local NWS office issued its first ever heat warning for the SF bay area in the month of March. 90's. It's a Goldilocks problem.

Glad it's not just us in the UK dealing with tonnes of salt during winter. But hey, you're roads look clear.

And its March 15th, and you ride a motorcycle, and its Sunday, and you just need to get a ride in. This is you. 24 hours before these photos I shoveled 6" of wet snow from my driveway. Yes they plowed and it did melt........somewhat. But, it started snowing here late Oct. and there is a ton of sand, salt, gravel and frost heaved tarmac on our roads. I appreciate their determination. I question their decision making abilities. Mine also, as I might have joined them had I known.ad I known.

Spain actually got VFR800 with RC45 paint job !

Hoping to get out east of CLT Sat & Sun this weekend. The mountains still have a LOT of gravel (I tries last week). Anyone interested?

Try what Worfje says. You should see RC45 at 5000 rpm

Try what Worfje says. You should see 14.2v at 5000 rpm

Would the opposite hold true?

Its been verified in this forum that an 8th gen aftermarket slip-on will fit a 5th gen....

Did you try to fully charge the battery and measure the voltage with engine running? It should show way above 12.7 V in that situation (guessing a bit around 14.7 V, since alternator is providing current which is kept in check by the voltage regulator). If still showing 12.7V when engine running, bad voltage regulator/rectifier or bad stator. Maybe this might help you out (for all other scenarios): https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1091/5694/files/fault-finding-diagram.pdf?235929069374954073

I was browsing different slip-on exhausts for my 2014 VFR800F for fun and came across the TSR website. While on their site, I noticed that they sell a carbon front fender for "CBR1000RR / VFR800F." I did some further research and found this forum post where someone noted that certain years of the CBR1000RR (2008-2019) have a direct swap for front fenders from VFR800F. As we all know, parts are hard to find for 8th gen VFRs (especially fairings), so this was cool to see. Are there any other parts from "more popular" Honda bikes that direct swap to the 8th gen VFRs as well?

I installed rear suspension and hub bearings. I got this press for the job. Not necessary but it has advantages and I have trailer bearings to do. it knocks out bearings great. It is not precise when it comes to installing bearings. Same for the cheap bearing driver kit. I find that for installing bearings I am better off starting with the hammer and socket technique. I can apply just enough force here and there to keep the bearing lined up as it goes in halfway or more the use then press to drive it home. My bicycle lift was perfect for hold the arm level with the press or bench. The swingarm just wouldn’t come really clean. Usually bikes are dirty but I may be getting carried away at my initial cleaning. I had it powder coated. There was some temptation to overhaul the throttle bodies. The bike ran ok so I’ve decided to save that madness for later. There was some soft soot on the bottom side of the plates. That factory material that lines the upper plates is completely intact. The vacuum hoses are all supple. Checking the starter valves synch will suffice for now. I changed the fuel filter. Someone has changed the filter but I didn’t know until I got the assembly out. May as well do it anyway. An ST1300 filter I had on hand fit ok. I only noticed the broken off stud when putting the assembly back in. It didn’t leak before, I used a new gasket. At least for now if it doesn’t leak, I’ll get the motor running to check new exhaust for leaks and synch the throttle bodies. I see how much this bugs me and see if opinions come in about this. And I cleaned the brake pedal pivot.

There's a decent diagram here. https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/files/file/230-5th-gen-super-high-resolution-wiring-diagrams/ I would not rule out a bad battery; it is entirely possible to have decent voltage but no ability to provide adequate current if there is an internal short in the battery. Before you go much further, I'd pull the bike battery out of the circuit and try a jumper cable off a car battery. Having the ESR click rapidly is still a sign of low voltage; enough to get the relay to switch, but then not enough to keep it there when the load comes on so it snaps off. I had some of this on my daughter's Toyota car when the battery died. Rapid clicking from the starter solenoid. When we put a jumper cable on, same result, just clicking. Only when we pulled the bad battery out of the circuit did it return to normal starting. A new battery fixed that one right up.

service manual for your bike and wiring diagram would be your source.

A few weeks ago I turned on the key and the bike went dead. I mean dead. No clock dead. Grabbed the dvm and checked the battery. It was at 12.7 with the key off, then dropped to 1-2 volts at key on. OK, bad battery. I replaced (from Batteries Plus) and everything seemed OK. Until today. Dead again. But as soon as I turn the key off the voltage jumps back to 12.7-12.8. I looked at a few things. Connections are tight. All the fuses I could find are intact. One weird phenomenon. If I pull the STARTER - ENGINE STOP SENSOR fuse and turn on the key the engine stop relay clicks rapidly and the battery voltage goes down much more slowly than if I simply turn on the key. Idk if that's a clue or not. In fact, I'm totally stumped. I'm not even sure where to start. Anyone? ETA - Engine stop relay, not the sensor.

Finally they are ready for painting If you wounder why the headlight is still there, well the scruvs that holds it are stuck, rusted to the brass nuts in the plastic, so it will be there as just protected. The part's are now delivered to my friend that is a professional car painter to be painted. The Transalp looks a bit sad But now it's time to dig into the carbs and clean them as tank is off, also thinking about putting the more street rubber on perhaps as I have not been riding that much gravel... And the seat cover needs to be changed!

Some talk about blue VFRs: Blue VFR

I learned something funny about BRG. It turns out the original international car races were sponsored in Europe by Rockefeller in the early 1900's it would considered the equivalent of an annual F1 race now. But the winner got to host the next years race. The English won the 2nd or 3rd year, but England had the 5mph law with a man carrying a red flag in front of a car then. So they asked the Irish (Britain owned all of Ireland at that time) if they would host it? They said yes. So in honour of this the English painted their cars Green, aka BRG! So technically its Irish Racing Green 😂