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This just got published today. Expect this past spring to show up in about a year. 🙂 I don't think Thinwater is a member so I figured I'd share it.

It doesn't have to be "D" shaped to be the correct length. Just like a float bowl o-ring doesn't have to be pre-formed to the bowl shape.

So I just bought the bike and the temp gauge on cluster doesn't move, not good with electrical, where does the sensor sit so I can check it.I did find a sensor with a plug on that connects near the top of the radiator on tje left when sitting on the bike.

I'm looking for a service/ maintenance manual for my newly acquired 1986 vfr400r.

What I think is happening is folks Google this procedure and land on 8th Gen. But even in 8th Gen world there are conflicts in different manuals. Beit sidestand or center. Honda created that mess by offering the 2 models with 1 not having center stand. Agree with Terry though to check your specific manual.

D shape?.... Did I miss it on the Oring&more site?

I'm surprised you didn't order my equivalent when you ordered your others. I've installed 3 or 4 now.

The "while I'm at its" are on and I was looking for that weird D "O"-Ring for the water pump....... Looked on the parts fische, looked around and around.... "Where is that frickn part?" You would think a water pump part would be in the water pump fische.... but Noooooooooooo! Found it in left side cover, dammit.... Eff you to Honda.... While I'm at its continue, but starting to panic, summer is fast approaching, I want to ride this bike!

What wheels from what bikes would fit onto my 06 VFR having a hard time figuring it out

Right there in the owner's manual:

If you see *continuous* temps higher than 220ºF or below 180ºF then trouble shooting is in order: Continuous engine temps above 220ºF or 104ºC is also a problem and the proper order of items to trouble shoot are: 1)Faulty radiator cap... system should hold 1.1 pressure ratio... 2)Insufficient coolant... 3)Passages blocked in the radiator, hose or water jacket... 4)Air in the system... 5)Thermostat stuck closed... 6)Faulty temp meter or thermo sensor... 7)Faulty fan... 8)Faulty fan switch... Engine temps below 180ºF or 82ºC is an problem... it means that the moisture produced during combustion is not getting hot enough to evaporate out the pipe as steam... instead that moisture will migrate to the oil and produce a milky white contamination... Note normal by products of combustion is water... . Every gallon of gas creates roughly 8 pounds of water vapor... we all have witnessed water escaping out of tail pipes on cold mornings... The sequence of events to trouble shoot are: 1)Faulty temp meter... 2)Thermostat stuck open... 3)Faulty fan switch... (stuck on)

Going to do a chain adjustment on a 6th gen and see differing opinions on whether to do it on the center stand or the side stand. Any input on this? Any additional tips will be appreciated. Looked for a guide in the maintenance section but did not find any.

Thanks for your reply, Terry. We suspect that the thermostat might not be opening fully, and that’s why we're planning to remove it and test without it — just to be sure. The radiators checked out fine, so that's one thing off the list. For now, though, I have to wait for the workshop. Unfortunately, my timing couldn’t be worse — Greece is currently experiencing its first major heat wave, and everyone seems to be overheating… bikes, cars, people 😅 Hopefully by Monday, I’ll have a proper update!

I hear a small squeal, but it sounds like metal vibration to me. Also, you can "not-earplug" all you want...but that only ensures that you won't be able to hear anything (including your VFR) as you get older. Get the plugs, you can hear the engine and intake just fine with them.

Thanks all. I went Amazon Hella H4 and cut the tabs for under $7...and ordered a spare.

I bought these 3 years ago and have been very pleased with them: https://www.superbrightleds.com/h4-led-headlight-bulbs-with-internal-driver-fanless-6500k-4-400-lumens-set?queryID=0cf5eadd28de37c3ac952823d4e5204a As with all H4 bulbs, you need to snip the two lower tabs. When I bought them, they were $46/pair They are now $40.

Pretty sure I grabbed the bulb reference from a FJR forum actually.

Lol, that's my drawing from 2009. I always enjoy seeing my work shared years later in different threads. FYI, most Hondas sold in Europe used "regular" H4 bulbs. Terry, the only parts of the bulb which are subject to the H4 design "specification" for mounting are the tabs. So, while different bulb manufacturers may use similar designs for the "flat part of the base", that's just coincidence/copying each other's designs. I'm sure it makes little difference in the real world (the H4 reflector headlight design being pretty loose to begin with), however. If the bulbs are out of position, the filaments will not reflect the "proper" beam precisely, but it would probably be very difficult to notice the difference on the road. (But I would know, which is why I won't do it. YOCDMV.) Ciao, JZH

I don't see a "non-machine shop" way of solving this problem, unfortunately. From the installation instructions and the picture on the Scotts website, it looks like the damper mounting bracket is supposed to sit flush on top of the top clamp, but your VFR's top clamp is not flat. Assuming the raised surface would be able to adequately support that bracket, yes, a machinist should be able to turn an extended nut (with the groove) which would allow the damper mounting bracket to sit flush on top of the top clamp. You might also need to raise the tank flange bracket to match the new position of the top clamp bracket, but that should only require some alloy spacers of the correct thickness. (You might also ask Scotts why they didn't make one for this model, considering they've had 10+ years to do so...) For the new custom steering stem nut, I would probably choose stainless as the material, but I'm not the one who has to work it! Good luck. Ciao, JZH

Interesting! Sorry, I am away from my bikes and cannot take any measurements right now, but I have measured rear wheel offsets in the past and was surprised to discover that the offset (from the face of the wheel flange) was identical on every Honda SSSA rear wheel I had measured. (And that included the RC46, RC36, NC24 and RC40.) Looking through some of my previous posts on this topic, however, I had measured from the centre of the wheel to the face of the mounting flange on each wheel, and found a positive offset of 1.0". (Yes, in inches!) Gotta love standardisation. Ciao, JZH

Can't see the pics. Clutch diode is all that comes to mind from your description. Ciao, JZH

I hear a moan like tire noise or a drive chain too tight... check pressure and slack...

FWIW I have no previous comparison, but my sixth generation has been "dropping" the first fuel block at 3.8, 7.9, 14.1, and 10.8 miles the times that I noticed, but I'm thinking since the bike was new to me, I was inconsistent in my fill ups. Mostly stuck in 3rd gear and below riding around here (only a couple of highway trips) and getting anywhere from 29 to 33.7 mpg.

If you look at the troubleshooting guide in the service manual for poor low speed/idle performance, the recommended checks in order are as follows: 1. Spark plugs 2. Ignition timing 3. FI faults 4. Starter valve synchronization 5. Intake pipe leakage There is no mention there of the FPR but you'd assume anything within the fuel system that interferes with normal injection could be an issue e.g. fuel pump, regulator, blocked injectors, vacuum leaks. I'd be suprised if the FPR could have an intermittent fault as it is purely mechanical operated by intake vacuum on a diaphragm, that will either work or it won't. I have read that failing fuel pumps can be a bit intermittent and worse when the tank is low. I'd start with new plugs and see whether that resolves the issue.

Also check out: https://www.thurn-motorsport.de/ Looks like they have a dozen different options for the 1200.