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  2. krzywy86PL
    Hey, I don't know if this will still be helpful after all this time. I use Turtle Wax Red Line to clean my rims. I'm extremely happy with its performance; I haven't noticed any damage to the paint, even though it's a car product. Afterward, when the rims are dry, I spray them with Motorcycle Protect by Mac Off on a cloth, and they're beautiful and shiny. If you have the opportunity, check it out sometime, you'll be very pleased. Best regards. 🙂
  3. Today
  4. Presson
    Thanks Skids. The 8Gen brakes are quite powerful stock but I do think there was a substantial improvement in feel with the braided lines even though the bike had only 17k miles on it (albeit 7 yrs old). The other big advantage of braided lines to my mind is longevity.
  5. Skids
    22Nm is correct for 5th Gen too.
  6. Presson
    If you're still getting brake drag, it would be worth following MBrane's suggestion. It's easy. Just loosen the left hand axle pinch bolt, hold the brakes on and pump the forks up and down a few times. Then retighten the left pinch bolt. On 8 gens the pinch bolt should be tightened to 22Nm. It's probably the same for your 5gen but you can check in the manuals in the download section if you're not sure
  7. JontheVFRguy
    Hey there fellow VFR's! Im looking to replace my tail fairing as it was shattered in a bumpy mountain course. Sad to say that even after plastic welding everything back together it just doesnt feel right. If anyone knows where i can get one or is selling one that would be great. also on that note- has anyone attempted fairing swaps on these before? like from different hondas?
  8. Presson
    The method of keeping pressure on the brake lever overnight is usually successful. However, there are 2 potential air traps in the system as I'm sure you've seen. One where the feed to the left hand caliper crosses the fender to the right caliper. I take the left caliper off and move it to the RHS to bleed holding it up so any air migrates to the bleed nipple. The second is where the feed line to the front calipers comes up the forks and connects to the left hand flare joint at the headstock. The line can create a high point just before the flare joint depending on handlebar position. Holding the high point down while bleeding is usually enough to release any air bubbles. I've used a string to tie the line in position or a second set of hands.
  9. YosemiteVFR
    Installed new fuel drain hose, throttle body insulators & Napa Auto sourced radiator cap. I’m looking forward to road testing to verify cooling system performance. I’d been chasing down some elevated coolant temps and a situation where the radiator fan or air flow at speed wasn’t able to bring the coolant temp below the switch threshold to turn off the fan. After testing and verifying the properly functioning thermostat I’d installed a year ago (I was thinking it may not be opening all the way), I tested the OEM rad cap I’d installed, what I thought was a year or two ago, actually ended up being 4 years ago. I should have tested that first because I found the cap would slowly leak. Buttoned everything back up and logged heat cycle times to compare to an earlier test and it looks good. It was a good reminder to test/verify especially those things that were relatively recently replaced.
  10. Skids
    Nice job. I dont know how the 8th Gen brakes are as stock but there was a very noticeable improvement on my 01 when I fitted the braided lines.
  11. gropula
    Hi! Is my timing chain ready to be replaced? This is a 2002 with 94k km. The chain rides on top of the sprocket teeth. The markings show both cams are retarded. In the third pic the exhaust cam timing mark is below the cylinder head top. Same for the front head. Cams retarded, chain riding on top of the sprocket. Additionaly, I run rapid bike racing. It's able to advance ignition timing. It does that by advancing the reading of the crankshaft position sensor. If the rapid bike is connected I occasionally get a crankshaft position sensor error on the Fi light. If I disconnect the rapid bike the Fi light doesn't show the error. This leads me to believe that the chain stretch and rapid bike advace creates a big enough mismatch between the crank position sensor reading and the cam position sensor reading, thus throwing the error code. The ignition advace is up to +5 degrees in some parts of the map.
  12. vfrcapn

    '98 refresh

    Images added to a gallery album owned by vfrcapn in Member's Gallery

    '98 bike, ~53k miles (87k Kilometers - Canadian bike) 4th owner, originally imported to US from Vancouver, Canada. I purchased locally mid-2024. Thought it needed a little cleaning and a 27-year refresh with some spare parts I had around plus a few new ones. Nothing groundbreaking, just typical teardown and clean up. Still a little bit to do to finish it up. Came with the Penske shock. Valves checked and all in spec. New items: - Tbros full header and high mount pipe. Lightly polished the pipes and repacked the silencer. - AS3 radiator hoses - Cooling system o-rings, gaskets, thermostat, rad cap, overflow bottle - Valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, K&N air filter - COP conversion - Pair valve block off plates (VFRD mello dude's garage) - RC51 front end. New fork seals/bushings, steering bearings. Added CycleCat clip-ons. - RC front wheel powder coated to match rear w/ new wheel bearings - 1098S Marchesini forged rear wheel - Extreme Creations Ducati rear wheel conversion kit - Sprocket Specialties quick change rear, 525 chain & fr sprocket. 17/45 gearing - Rebuilt fr brake and clutch master. New braided brake lines f & r - BLS (VFRD) peg lowering blocks - New dash PCB (https://www.ebay.com/itm/305985541227). LED dash lights - NOS Honda gas tank, sourced from www.cmsnl.com, new fuel filters. (Original tank had lg dent and body shop estimates were outrageous) - NOS pillion cover from cmsnl.com. - Smoked fr turn signal lenses, aftermarket rear tail light - CF front fender - Emgo Y2K style mirrors - Wolf underseat exhaust
  13. AJ20
    AJ20 joined the community
  14. VFRscrub
    VFRscrub joined the community
  15. WGBgo
    WGBgo joined the community
  16. JAMurillo
    I finally rode today, I pressurized the front lever and I opened the master cylinder banjo bolt a tiny bit to bleed it from the top and it really helped. I'll wait for the banjo bolt with a bleeder to finally complete the fix.
  17. FromMaine
    Yeah, kinda "the Hood" choice of rotor palette presentation. But, I've had that paint sitting around for a while after buying it for a non motorcycle project. The paint I use on my rims takes about a week to cure, and well, idle hands and a desire to use the can before it's use by date.......... Honestly thought it would be a little less Mr. T after I installed them.😁
  18. Yesterday
  19. SgtMarbles
    Gotcha. I ordered a new battery, it’s currently a no-start even with the old battery so I am hoping that I will be able to get it to at least crank the starter motor with a fully charged battery.
  20. V4 Rosso
    I would first charge the battery, let it sit for a while and then check voltage. It should be around 12.8V or above. If not the battery is likely bad and should be replaced. If voltage is OK install the charged battery, try to start the bike and if it does measure voltage at around 5000rpm, it should be >14V. If not check the charging system. If the battery is dead it does stall the engine at idle as then the stator doesn' t produce enough electrical energy to drive the fuel pump, injectors, ignition and lights etc.
  21. SgtMarbles
    I threw it on a trickle charger earlier this morning, the battery is only a year old. It could very possibly be a weak battery, however it wouldn’t explain why it essentially stalled itself out in an intersection, or why the starter motor will not even crank. Either way, the cheapest point to start at is ordering a new battery. Even if the battery was dead, would that stop it from a bump start?
  22. ojveteran
    ojveteran joined the community
  23. V4 Rosso
    The video shows otherwise. 12.1V is not a fully charged battery. With a bad battery and the engine idling the stator doesn' t produce enough energy to keep the engine running. Or the battery is fine but does not get charged: same result.
  24. SgtMarbles
    What could even be causing this massive drain? (The fuel pump seems to re-prime every time I tap the starter.) Bear in mind, the bike shut off with a “CLUNK” as if it had stalled… IMG_8007.mov
  25. Bring22
    Bring22 joined the community
  26. SgtMarbles
    I can hear the fuel pump prime, so im just not sure what the issue is. The starter motor won’t even crank, it just clicks so im a little worried…
  27. mello dude
    ^^^^What are those blingy rotor bolts Maine? I like... 😊
  28. DavidS
    I don’t think it’s that as they were rubbing consistently. Anyway just got to Wales and the bike has been solid over 220 miles 👍🏻
  29. FromMaine
    As stated. Don't need rotors or bearings, but fine if included. Off on a trip for 10 days, so may take a day or two to get back to you. Thanks Michael
  30. Worfje
    Hi, I just saw the introduction of Rapidbike Evo 2 and Racing 2 and wondered if they are (or planned to be) available for 5th Gen?
  31. FromMaine
    Replaced my front wheel bearings. A trip in early May to the Cabot Trail in Nova Scotia took a toll on my front rim. When I replaced my tires last Sept. I inspected the rims and bearings carefully as the bike was new to me. With only 11.5K on the bike they were as they should be. I knew I put a dent on the front while I was in Nova Scotia. as I also blew my right fork seal. I put the bike away for June and July, had a lot going on. In August, tucked into the front end to find the front rim had not 1, nor 2 dents, but 3. The left fork seal was shot to boot. Having gone through this with my 4th Gen 10 years ago, I figured the bearings were toast. I had seals and bearings on hand, until I went to install the bearings, they were for my 3rd Gen..... .🙃, so had to order a set. Anyway, some pics, because if not, it never happened. The right bearing was chowdered. Edit: For the record, the last picture is from 10 years ago and what your front bearing on your 4th Gen looks like after it disintegrates at 65 mph on the highway. I keep a close eye on my bearings now.😁
  32. Thumbs
    Unless the ECU is telling the fuel system to pump you’ll never bump start it
  33. artvanderlay
    artvanderlay joined the community
  34. Skysurfer
    Skysurfer joined the community
  35. Terry
    Looks pretty nice in the tank, no sign of any corrosion inside. This bike sat outside for at least 2 years, looks like maybe salt spray got to it. The corrosion while not unexpected is more widespread than I had hoped. Still looks like a clean and straight chassis and the motor sounds great but without a cooling system I have limited my enthusiasm there. I just fitted the radiator so as soon as I get the missing hose and the forks I could take a sneaky ride..
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