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Looks like Canada had one silver in '98 and a different silver in '01. Either way, it would be stated right on the VIN tag. I changed the speedo face out on my import for mph, easy swap. There is a place in Colorado that will reprogram a used LCD to match the mileage of your original LCD if you want to swap that out also. Supply them a mph odo and they'll set it to match the mileage from a KM odo. They provide a cert and say it's all legal. I never did dig in far enough to see if the F and C temp senders were the same part.

Good luck with your project, natnif. You and Burger definitely chose rough examples to recommission, my hat is off to both of you.

Exact same.

Well put Captain. I ride 100% paved roads, usually out through farmland or forests and generallly not in traffic, and our climate is pretty mild, so I mainly have dead insects and grass/leaves in my air filters, not very much dust or dirt at all.

Air filters are typically "as needed", aren't they? Do you live or work at the bottom of a strip mine or do you live in a mild climate with inherently less dust and a paved driveway? The same mileage will yield VERY different results and intervals.

I change mine out every 20, 000kms on the VFRs i have owned. 2007 25th Anniversary edition 2014 VFR Deluxe Anybody out there waiting longer or going shorter intervals. Thanks

Thanks for the encouragement folks! @mello dude Good call, I'll add some o-rings to that order This is what happens when you park up a bike in a coastal village uncovered, the sea air has just eaten it alive! The previous owner parked it up for less than a year, until then it was running great he tells me. So if you live by the coast, keep your bike covered and use it, don't just leave it sit there!

If it's a Canadian import the speedo & odo will read in kilometres, and the temp gauges will read Celsius. (6th gen let you swap the displays between metric and imperial) The colour code label is under the seat, as shown in the service manual. If still attached it'll tell you if silver is the original colour. Fyi, we got yellow a year before the US, as well as green and blue. Around the turn of the century several guys on the VFR list bought complete bodywork sets from Canadian Honda dealers. One fellow in California bought a yellow set for >US$1400, including the fuel tank and shipping from my local dealer. I think they sold maybe half a dozen sets to Americans over the years. Back then the US:Canada currency exchange was very favourable to a US buyer. Here's a scan of the colour label locations, and a 2001 price list from Brian Law of Dynamo Hum. Old timers will remember that he put together an 837cc kit for the 3rd & 4th gens, and a piston kit for the 5th gens(?).

Perhaps separate North American and European awards?

Wow, duly noted.🤐

Maybe we need to add a category for "previously stored above or below the tide line".

i wish to raise a point of order:

This was my 1999 when I replaced the thermostat, in 2014 I think. The hoseclips look the same as Natnif's so I would say his are all OEM.

Dont forget the pull the fittings off and replace o-rings... those are also sources of leaks.

My word. Non oem hose clamps everywhere. Crud like you read about, corrosion on an epic scale. My personal Restoration of the year award is yours. Take it, you need it.😁

I've now ordered the AS3 performance hose replacement kit and the insulator bands for when I refit the throttle body as the ones on it are falling apart. Most of that stuff will be a week or so arriving, at which point I'll pull all the hoses and clean up with debris as best I can. Then I'll pull the thermostat and test it as I'd really prefer to not have to go back in this deep again anytime soon! I'll also flush both rads as I think there is a fair amount of crusty stuff in the cooling system. Then it's "just" a case of building it back up! I have a few days off work in about 2 weeks so I'll see what I get done that day.

All my bikes have long levers except my 2001. I have a genetic issue with my hands, they are failing for lack of a better explanation. I need all the leverage I can get. I can certainly see why many guys would want shorty levers though as braking systems get better and better.

I believe vfrcapn is probably correct. If memory serves, the US only got red in 98-99. A quick look at the speedo is in order, if it reads in kph, its most likely a Canadian import. If that's the case the 54,300 on the odometer would actually be 33,740 miles. I imported a 1990 vfr750 a couple of years back from Canada. Importing it myself was fairly easy as it was over 25 years old so DOT and EPA requirements did not apply. I did have to have a quiet talk with the Maine BMV about the difference between kms and miles, and they kindly made the adjustment on my registration. Looking at the photo, I see an aftermarket seat, aftermarket exhaust, looks like a DB windscreen, 00-01 mirrors instead of the condoms that were oem, and nice SS bar ends, which might be Throttlemeister? All in all someone who owned it looked after the details, and you benefited from it. Good find.

@natnif..... sympathys sir...

Is this the rag that you set the end of on fire?

Success! I got the throttle body off and this thing just gets worse the deeper I delve.

Redslut goes pizza delivery! Yes honey, that box makes yet arse look huge!!

The issue with rear ride height is a problem with ALL bikes with Single Sided Swingarms. That is why I've made a gauge to allow me to measure the height from a set point on the rear body work and the top of a pin fitted to the rear axle. We need to adjust the shock length to allow for the change in ride height when changing chain tension etc. I run a MV F3 800 in Super Sport Next Gen racing and are always making adjustments as we change gearing and or swingarm length. We have a set height we aim for and I do the same on my VFR. The change via the eccentric can be quite large and this will have a major effect on rake/trail.

I bought myself some bigger circlip pliers today, but suspect I'll have the same result. The offending circlip sits in a gap inside the prop shaft and outside the output shaft. It's sole function is to prevent the shaft sliding back off the output shaft. I'm 95% confient that I can reassemble the bike without dismantling this bit. When I worked on my ST1100, the shaft was basically two sections with a universal joint, trapped at both ends so aside from a small lengthways movement with suspension travel, it stayed put, and with the "pumpkin" removed, the shaft could just be slid right out. The 1200 uses a very different geometry as it is in three sections with a universal and a CV joint along the shaft so the driven and driving ends of the prop shaft need to be more firmly fixed where they mate with the splined couplings at each end. My new oil seals left Japan today so hopefully I will see them by early next week.

Nice bike, Canadian import?