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jeremyr62 last won the day on January 22

jeremyr62 had the most liked content!

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About jeremyr62

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    Factory Team Rider

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  • In My Garage:
    1986 VF500F2 (UK)
    2018 FJR1300AE

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  1. Watch out for the enclosed front and rear discs. Lots of ping fuckit spring shims to lose.
  2. That is a strange and rare bike to purchase now. I bought one of those new in 1984. It was cheap and came with free insurance. They imported loads into the UK and couldn't sell them. What are you getting it for? To mess with?
  3. Can’t help with the source but the phenomenon you are encountering is called “beats”. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beat_(acoustics)
  4. Regarding the paint of the exhaust. I have had a similar experience with a whole range of bbq/vht/exhaust paints. None of them work very well. I just accept it will a never ending task of regular maintenance. Stainless is the way to go IMO.
  5. Yeah best solution by far. Looks in very good nick too.
  6. I am sure it's repairable but you might be better off just picking up a second hand one. They seem plentiful enough on Ebay.
  7. If at the end of the day you didn't want to go two keys, a decent locksmith could re-pin the locks so they take the same key. It isn't actually difficult to do but you need access to a variety of pins to do it. But I suspect that is a long way in the future. Good luck with the rebuild, bike looks solid.
  8. Yeah impressive. Just shows they don't all drop valves.
  9. Sounds to me like you have some sort of speedohealer device tucked away somewhere to lower the speed from km/h to mph so the number is correct but the unit on the dial is obviously now wrong.
  10. Those valves in the before condition look fine to me. Seen much worse. Riding a bike in the manner it was intended will keep valves pretty clear of crap in my experience.
  11. You might want to check your F2 fairing when it's off the bike. See the photos in the link. I noticed my right hand side wind deflector, the one that channels the air into the rad was wobbling. The plastic has started to crack around the fasteners. Only one side affected so you might be OK. I will reinforce with something. https://photos.app.goo.gl/FP8qexyAPGuZgfyH6
  12. I honestly wouldn't bother. I bet it will still run just fine. I see from your first post it did run. If the the figures are real they are low but it's very unusual for them all to be low. I would query your gauge first. If the engine is that badly worn it's beyond economic repair IMO. Try to find another one.
  13. The thick cable that goes under the right side of the engine to the starter motor. Alternatively take off the fairing, peel back the boot where the aforementioned cable bolts to the starter and connect the positive from a spare battery. Be prepared for sparks and make sure bike is in neutral or on centre stand. If the starter motor doesn't immediately turn then the bushes probably need to changed. If this happens disconnect quickly because without a back emf the windings will pull a huge current and fry the motor. But it will be fun either way.
  14. Could also be the starter motor bushes need replacing. Easy job and you can get kits on Ebay. You can test for this by connecting the thick cable straight to a battery and see if it cranks.
  15. A true connoisseur of the brand. I defer to your expertise. 😀
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