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Blowing bulbs frequently is a sign that the RR may be outputting significantly more than the max 15.5V; if that is happening your battery also won't be enjoying life and may show signs of bulging or overheating. A voltmeter across the battery terminals with the engine revved up to 5000rpm will tell you quickly. Headlights use fuse E in the forward fuse box and fuse I in the rearward. The position lamps use a different fuse (B) which is common to many other components so that can't be at fault.

John, your 8mm barbed fitting should work just fine as I just put a mic on the fuel supply hose and it is 7.5/7.7mm ID (depended on how much pressure I used). My previous post included OD as those are different.

Some of these types of connectors seal upon disconnect on both sides, some only on the female side. The Stein connectors sold by Louis.de seal on both sides; I bought some brass JMP 8mm connectors, but they only seal on one side. Sealing on both sides would probably be better, expense, weight and complexity aside. (FYI, ca. 2026, the only sources I can find for the Steinconnector model are Louis.de, POLO, XLMoto and 24MX (the latter now being merged--and they are a bit cheaper than the German sites).) @Mohawk, can you confirm you used 2x 8mm? ( Just knowing there weren't two different sizes would probably be sufficient, because I know the return line is 8mm.) Cheers, JZH

Stu, do the checks on the charging circuit set out in the service manual ( available in the downloads section). That will tell you if there is a r/r issue. If that all passes, then the problem lies elsewhere. Could be corroded or overheating connectors for example, or even a switch issue..... Had you decided to fit higher intensity bulbs by chance? Halfords loves to recommend the brighter versions but they have a shorter life as a result

In low light I know the 30 amp is ok. The bulbs I changed as initially it was the headlamps that weren’t working but tonight no lamps other than one Side lamp / parking lamp. I’m planing on checking and Voltage’s tomorrow. In less than 12 months I’ve changed the headlamp bulbs twice now, hence why I was asking if it could be the R/R

This sounds like a great idea to make life easier. Gaz, the items you discovered are self sealing on the female side. What's the view about that? Is it best to have both nale and female self-sealing or is it just the tank outlet side where that's necessary? Grateful for advice.

Without any diagnosis asking for votes on a forum may not be the best approach. Have you measured your charging system per the instructions on this site? Have you checked for voltage at the terminals? Have you checked...the bulbs? Fuses? Help us help you.

Hi all, my VFR has lost all front lights barring one side lamp. Am I right in thinking it’s the Reg/rec that’s the issue. ??

Well theres a blast from the past. Mine are still going strong after 10years of fuel exposure inc Ethanol laced E10 for the last half dozen or so years! Happy hunting 😎👍

pm sent

The elbow was bolted on a paper gasket with the rubber O-ring in place then welded, which fried the o-ring then gasket sealer was smeared on top of everything. Fortunately I am not seeing this kind of shenanigans elsewhere. The mating surface cleaned up pretty well except for a small divet. I’ll have to pick a sealant for that spot. I have SMC and brake calipers cleaned. Pistons look good. Seals for masters and slaves on the way from BrakeCrafters recommended here on vfrd. In a youtube video the rear axle was out a few seconds after the nut was off. From the time I had the nut removed to having the axle out took an hour and fifteen minutes beating with ever larger hammers. Thinking if I didn’t need bearings before, I’d need them after this. Taking turns getting it to move a couple millimeters then tighten the nut down again to drag some penatrating lube in there. The axle passes my finger nail test. There is slight discoloration on the bearing surface. This look typical? Anyway I am calling good to go. Measures good. Bearing grease was in good condition. The first goodies arrived. Also recommended here. Thanks for the tips.

Hi, does anyone have any idea where I could buy Honda factory bar risers for a 2015? It will come down to dollars and cents but would like to see if the option is available. I prefer Honda parts.

Those are some great detail photos Lucca. I did the same valve clearance work on my 09 with about 90,000km last year and had to replace 6 VTEC buckets and relocate one, but the non VTEC clearances were nearly all OK which I think shows that a previous service had been done which ignored the VTEC valves, I took some photos but generally had too much oil on my hands to be bothered with a camera.

That is a beautiful bike. Most ~40 year old bikes don't age that well from a looks and design perspective. And, as I think I posted somewhere else here recently, I just love those three spoke wheels. I don't think Joe's tank could make it any better.

My tank has a small, shallow depression on an upper edge. I got the bike that way. For some reason stuff like that doesn't bother me as bad if I didn't do it and it's not terrible. Patina-as-received. It is not a $1500 dent. It is technically visible in this pic. But man I am drooling over here and happen to have the funds in the mad money account. But it's a pretty hard pass. And I think a PDR guy might be able to get to it. Thanks for posting though!!

https://v4dreams.com/shop-blog/nos-fuel-tank-vf1000f

Hello hello people ! Another update on the VFR ! The front end is nearly done.The forks and the wheel have been put together as well as the discs and calipers. The front master cylinder has been rebuilt and the brake and clutch bled. I started to fit the front fairing, just to have a sneak peek at how it's gonna look as I still need to clean and paint the radiator. When I attempted to change the front sprocket, I noticed that the cover and the clutch slave cylinder were in a very terrible state. So started to clean up everything, and I noticed some damage to the inside of the cover. Not sure what happened there, I assume it was during my wee crash ? I got to clean up some bit of the swingarm, as well as the chain guard. The rear brake has been bled too. And yeah, I went a bit mental with the chain guard paint job 🤡 For the record, it's a black metallic with a dust coat of gold from the wheels 💁

Time to put the patient on the table.... Start disecting Remove farked engine Put the patient on the bench... Pop in the donor! Yes @keny I still have the t-shirt!!!

Just make sure it's MC oil so you don't contaminate the clutch plates with some super slippery additive.

Yes, that's one of the best sources for the USA, for sure. Another one is Corsa Technic, but I tend to think of them more for automotive connectors. Same goes for Del City and Waytek. Eastern Beaver in Japan I see you've found already (sorry about the tariffs...), but it is still a good source of information about the relevant connectors. In the UK I've used also Kojaycat, Polevolt and Motorcycle Wiring Products for motorcycle connectors (they all have the "Hitachi-style" locking connectors used on many VFRs). The one thing I could never find in the USA (and which is available absolutely everywhere in the UK) is thin-wall pvc automotive cable in the full spectrum of sizes and colours. Not sure why that is, but all you seem to get in the US are a few popular colors and sizes. (For example, I can get 0.5mm2 or 1.0mm2 in 11 solid colours--and most of these with any one of 10 tracer colours as well. Fewer and fewer colours are available as the sizes increase, but hopefully you get the idea! Ciao, JZH

I have read all this to the letter, this masterpiece job that You have done. Since I know VFR800 to the last bolt, I am impressed. As well, I salute You! This is how Love looks like, evidence of pure commitment and love! As well, I know what knowledge level You have to have to pull this job. This is better to read than a book. Thank u for sharing!

Thanks guys, I'll give the fully synthetic a go The mirrors that came with the bike were aftermarket and the folding mechanism seized. They broke when attempting to unseize them. The bike is on 25k miles. I'm yet to do an oil change. I'll try that. All the oil options for this bike on wemoto seem to be 10w40 semi - synthetic. Is that the recommended oil?

After 20+ years every bike needs proper service 😉