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I love the RS4's on my Tiger660 and loved them on my VFR. On the Tiger660 they tend to wear out the front before the rear. I'm not one to track mileage but will say they are lasting a lot longer than I expected. As to straight line performance, I finished off a set at the tract and they were awesome. Repeated runs to just over 120mph followed by 40mph corners and they felt great even though they were well into the wear bars. The front had patches about 1.5" peeled off on the sides and I didn't know it until I went to change the tire the next week. The RS4's are really sensitive to pressure adjustments on the TIger660. I can fell the steering change from cold morning starts to running temps or if I neglect to check them after sitting.

Switched from Angel GT and Road 5 to RS4's. Made the Multistrada feel almost twitchy for a bit, but adjusted my lazy touring style and now way happy. Just made the VFRs, 4th and 5th gens, more responsive and more enjoyable. Using my own tire machine, they do suck more to mount.....

So it turns out the most effective way of dropping that 500lb heavy feeling isn't swapping exhaust and going with a lithium battery. It's to weight train by daily'ing a 800lb Honda couch with stump pulling torque for 100K whatever miles and then fire up a VFR. Fifth gen weight now feels like the 10-speed I had as a kid. 😆

I use the SportSmarts all good done track days extreme lean & speed. Great tyres, I'm sure the RoadSmarts R 2, but more road biased as opposed to sport biased. Good write ups from tests. Enjoy.

I used road 6 for three seasons. Solid tire but after reading the favorable reviews on Dunlops I switched. The bike is in fact more agile with dunlops than it ever was with michelins. I chose the GT variant of roadsmart 4 as that's what's recommended for the VFR on their website. Their explanation is GT for heavy bikes with a sharper profile for more agility and SP for light bikes with a duller profile for more stability. I didn't notice any instability with the dunlops, only good agility. My bike has a YSS shock with lenght adjustment so it sits higher in the rear further increasing agility, again with no downsides of instability. I've taken it to top speed, rode in crosswinds etc. Stable as you want it to be in a straight line with a positive agility when you initiate a turn in. A nice addition is braking agility, the bike can still swerve at moderate braking which was very hard to do on the Road 6. Also slowing down mid corner doesn't upright the bike at all, you can easily add a bit of braking mid turn to tighten the corner, even at very high lean angles. I'm very happy with the switch and I'll keep using dunlops for now until something better is released. Road 6 and Roadsmart 4 are the best sport touring tires currently with my vote going to the Dunlops because of the agility which a VFR really needs.

If it is from the NR750, the locating pins are probably oval not round...

HI, my current road 5s are toast and will switch to the Road smart 4 in spring. Based on reviews I have read they are quite sporty and offer more response at lean than the Road 5. Can anybody here comment on straight line stability if you have experience with the Dunlops. Thxs

Hi I decided to sell my Honda vfr800fi/5th gen the previous owner had it for 23years I believe it has done 23,500 miles and is in amazing condition . It has ohlins rear shock with remote/ front forks ohlins springs , harris carbon chain guard/ power commander /healtech gear indicator/scott oiler /gilles footrest/gilles bar risers /mra screen that’s new and a blue flame exhaust/stainless down pipes , oxford heated grips Goodrich complete hoses throughout. All the original parts I also have the original full system is in as new condition footrest/bars/chain guards all the plus a tank bag . It’s really something special, the last owners had a Honda vfr work shop manual dealers use and he was an engineer and kept a book detailing everything item/ service done . If anyone is interested in buying one of the best in the u.k send me a PM please.

Another trick to find compatible parts with different part numbers is to seek out a few aftermarket catalogs, e.g., for master cylinders I would check the K&L catalog and see which of their rebuild kits cross-ref with which bikes. It's not 100% reliable, but it sometimes works! Ciao, JZH

RC40 is the model code for the 1992 NR (750). It's also single-nut, and the locating pins are on a different PCD than the RC30/45... Ciao, JZH

Well I had time as energy to mount the rear Tire I bought for the Transalp, a Metzeler Karoo 4 I must say I like the details Metzeler put into the tires Had plans to go to my favorite cafe on Saturday, as forecast was sunny and about+5°C but Friday afternoon weather was like this VID_20251114_161330005.mp4 So weather turned colder than normal as came snow that was not forecast, so Saturday all roads where slick of ice..... But today Sunday the weather was as forecast to Saturday! Life smile again And in end of ride in for a wash So now clean for winter sleep I believe this was last ride of season most likely

Earl and I completed another test run today, about 350km of the best bumpy and twisty roads that I know of close to home. He passed with flying colours although the forks bottomed a couple of times and I lost count of the centrestand clashes on dippy bends, but they seem to be lessening (as is the centrestand). The forks and shaft have remained leak free! I remain highly impressed with the chassis and braking, and the ground clearance has also been untroubled although I have been edge-to-edge on the Road5 rear tyre. Even the fuel economy was suprisingly decent at 17km/L.

That's correct...👍

Go to classifieds, and make a post. 🫠

Hi I’m not sure if there’s a section or even allowed to sell your motorcycle on here, if not i apologise in advance.

I didn't think it was worth it to buy the complete exhaust. Their own DynoJet graph shows less than 3HP gain for the extra $300. It's also likely that they use thinner wall pipe than stock, which often adds a ringing tone that I don't enjoy. I'm handy enough to do a mockup, but this involves 2" stainless steel, so cost would still be a factor. Since I want to keep the existing Staintune for my 5th gen, I'd also need to find another Staintune canister for the 8th gen. Maybe one day...

Late to the party, but I'll give a 2nd endorsement for motorcycleshippers.com I've shipped 2 bikes with them; one from California to Hawaii in 2005 and one from Columbus OH to Hawaii about 2 months ago. They have terminals in West. Sacramento and Phoenix, so you might be able to save a bit of money by dropping it off and picking it up at the terminals. In my case, I paid extra to have them deliver it to my door here in Hawaii, as opposed to picking it up at the terminal. Price is between $800 - $850 from Grass Valley to Phoenix.

Eventually got my parts powder coated but this one is still parked for the moment, bought a TL1000S project and a 94 Urban Tiger FireBlade. I know I’ve read this elsewhere but is the 5 stud stub axle to RC40 97 swingarm a straight forward swap?

Wow. That is a very loose definition of "tech". Sounds more like a Parts Counter Associate.

Just the cat back. Too big to save/hang the whole thing on the wall, so I cut just the end to show. Will polish the tip and clean/paint the small end of the can. Maybe put a Scooby sticker on there above/behind the tip.

How handy are you? You installed the pipe, or the complete exhaust? A local hardware store may have just what you need to make a mock up of your own. Where do you live? This is for reference on your local hardware stores...

Earl may be getting renamed Öldicht! (a poor pun for my German-reading friends) as he is no longer weeping fluids from either end. We had a little 150km shake-down run after the recent work, the forks are now weep-free (for now) and the shaft likewise is keeping its oil inside. Earl is running famously well, handling nicely but the centrestand came under attack again. The new front subframe has made no real difference and is still sitting a bit to the right which means the tabs on the frame are bent and I am not touching those...The new LED lights make him look a little more modern. For S&G I disconnected the cable from the exhaust flap actuator, and have to say the soundtrack is much improved, with a nice smooth rumble at low revs now. Take that, noise police!

Not sure if this fuel tank is of any use to anyone but thought I would check before disposing of it. It was damaged when I dropped my bike at a service station and the tank hit the corner of the fuel bowser (replaced by insurance company). Apart from this dent the rest of the tank is in perfect condition. happy to give away if anyone has a use for it, just pay postage if not local. Please remember to reply by Private message (Forum rules I believe?)

Hey Guys, I caved and took it to my local Honda dealer. So far they are as clueless as me, they said the starter relay was done…even though I could hear it clicking when I was doing my diagnosis. So I replaced it, now they are saying the starter is bad because it’s only getting 6V on the bike, when it should be getting 12v. What doesn’t make sense to me is that the starter doesn’t have any effect on the operation of the bike once it’s started, even if the starter isn’t getting decent voltage it should still bump start. The fuel pump primes too, and occasionally re-primes if you try to start it, which mean’t the ECU’s power isn’t being sustained. When I asked about it the service advisor said; “That’s a good question, i’ll have to speak with the tech and i’ll get back to you”. The bike died while running, and while it was in gear with the clutch in, so I don’t think the starter is the problem. It won’t bump-start either, the conclusion I came to was the PGM-FI relay since it’s the only thing that can control both fuel and spark. So far, they seem as clueless as me and the tech seems to be firing the parts canon… Sorry for the lack of updates, since my last post the bike has been stuck at the dealer.