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The FI light will come on if the ECM detects any signals that are outside of the norm. For example if the inlet manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor doesn't see a vacuum when the engine is running, the FI light comes on and the ECM goes to "limp" mode. That specific example can happen if the vacuum hose is not connected to the MAP sensor or if the electrical connector comes loose (or more likely gets forgotten by the mechanic). You'd be best to download the manual, clear any old error codes, then ride the bike until the fault occurs. At that point you can use the fault code to identify where the issue is coming from and (hopefully) rectify that.

Gotta pinch it a bit and get just part of the slot engaged with the bracket hole. Then keep pressure in that direction while you work your way around pushing in/thru a little at a time. Once you get some progress it will better stay at what you've accomplished so far without wanting to back out as easily. I know I pretty much just said the same thing I said earlier, but that's what works for me. And like I hinted at before, those are my least favorite to do, so I feel for ya.

I just recently purchased a 1999 vfr 800 from my boss/friend. Its a beautiful bike. runs great. until it doesnt..lol he said it will stumble and act slugish and fi light will come on. It hasnt done it to me yet but ive barely rode it around my little town until i register it. Im curious if dirty throttle plates will cause this issue. On a car it will. any help would be great. I ride my spyder to work but want to get this one on the rode. thanks

Sometime the small things get the best of us! I dont recall having such a hard time with mine... perhaps I erased it from memory 😬 I'm sure you've tried a lot of ideas... perhaps a bench vice could squash it in for you if you get one edge in juuuuust right...

Got the blunt screwdriver thing out, cussed and fussed another hour on the one grommet... no go. Eff it. In frustration jumped on the Valkyrie for a good thrashing... back later...

We meet in Franklin every May. Come join us and you will find even more roads that the locals share with us. There is also a Fall Ride in mid September that moves to different locations just to keep it interesting. We usually end up with a couple of groups so everybody can find a ride.

Twenty years ago I flew to Nashville, borrowed a 5th gen, and rode to Charlotte NC on all the best roads. Went home and bought one soon after. Last week I flew to Nashville, borrowed the same bike (only 22k miles now) and spent 4 days riding some of the same roads. I now understand why VFRD meets in Franklin. We stayed in Townsend, and just rode everything we could in the area. It was epic, and I will not wait another 20 years to head east again.

IMO, the fuel gauge is accurate. Concerning the first bar, I've noticed mine will go away between 20-30 miles. Doesn't matter if I just fill it up or pack it full.I've learned not to obsess with that first fuel bar thing and just ride I commute 140 miles daily with about 85 / 15 split of highway and backroads. Usually at 75 mph on the highway and rpms are dead on 5,000 at that speed. Go consistently in the 200-210 mile range before the last bar is flashing and typically putting in 4.5-5 gallons.

The fuel indicator isn't that accurate to be of any use. Track your fuel economy by fully filling the tank and write down the amount of fuel and mileage. I use autosist app to track fuel economy and service records. My 2002 is tuned for power and response via rapid bike racing and wideband O2 sensor. I target 13.5 AFR at smaller throttle openings and 13.0 at higher throttle openings. My bike averages around 7.8L/100km with a very throttle happy hand and lots of VTEC. If I cruise sedately I can get around 7L/100 or better.

Do it when your wife is out shopping and the pot will be fine. The action in boiling water is very obvious from closed to open.

A green 3-pin plug might be for the bank angle sensor but the wire colours don't look quite right. Any 12v connector can potentially melt if it gets some corrosion as that increases resistance and that causes heat. If the BAS circuit is interrrupted that will definitely stop the engine as it will interpret that as a tip-over and shut fuel pump and injection down at least. VFR 800 Electrical Schematic After 2005 Standard Type REV 01.pdf

The one on the bike is c7eh, so that's a third one now

Hey guys and gals, my buddy was riding his 05 VFR and it just died while riding. He found this green connection melted. Anyone know what it is & common solution? Thanks in advance

Some revealing testing can be done with a pot of heated water & candy thermometer, realism could be added by using a 50/50 mix. Hard to duplicate flow in system but it could reveal flawed openings,etc. mix might be hard on your favourite pot though😏

Thanks, BusyLittleShop! Hopefully today we’re going to remove the thermostat and see how it behaves without it. We’ve already checked everything else on your list — the only things left are a possible blocked hose or restricted water jacket, which we haven't been able to verify yet. I'll keep you posted with what we find!

+1 on Captain 80's. I actually have several tools I've modified like his. A long shaft medium sized flat blade, a small short shaft flat blade, and a small angle pick. The edges are all polished so I can manipulate stuff without gouging it.

Maybe as simple as pulling one from your bike to check against?

updated pics, found good lower fairings but just not in the pics. Still working on the darn spark plug problem. been tied up with my 86' ninja 1000r project.

Shot guys wil check it out.

So need help, I've just got a 1986 vfr 400r nc21.On one site it says DPR8EA-9, AMD on the other CR8EH-9. I bought the DP but thread looks too big.So I'm confused as to which ones are correct.PLEASE HELP.

Thanks terry will have a look tomorrow on the back end of the front head.

Hi there I've just got this as non runner it's been looked after new fuel pump plugs exhaust discs and pads bridgtone battle axe tyres all carbs been rebuilt with new original kits I found fuel cutoff relay faulty so bypassed that all ok new fuel filter but old one looks new tank is spotless fresh fuel pump pressure is good im not to kean on stripping carbs just going by the level of work previously done looks good as if he knew what he was doing no bodges but one minute runs lovely revs all ok next rides 👌 but misfires and cutoff any idea please I don't know were to consetrate on fuel or electrics I'm more used to two stokes raced cr 500 redrocket and huskies and maico I'm just not used to this Vfr750 and it's common faults

I have an old flat blade scew driver that I shaped the tip into a soft arc that I use as a grommet remover / installer. Get it started and then start going around and pushing thru, while holding/applying pressure to not lose what you got so far.. Doesn't tear or damage them. That particular style, thick and solid on both sides, is one of the tougher Honda grommets tho I will say.

Sunday spin whit a quiet regular stop a cafe along my favorite road Then it was like I been through a teleport But no, not on Dutch ground, just a spin thro town next to mine that has a wind mil Transalp is still doing great 👍