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adkfinn

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adkfinn last won the day on October 6 2023

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About adkfinn

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  • Location
    Montpelier, VT
  • In My Garage:
    1998 Honda VFR800
    1981 Honda CB750F
    1988 Honda VT600C

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  1. From what I recall I don't think I had to do this? The throttle side grip is a pretty good fit on my bike, you can see it in one of my earlier posts (linked pic).
  2. Like Captain mentions below - I just tapped switched power to trigger a relay wired from the battery. I am planning on adding a fuse block/power center ( something like this perhaps? https://easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/fuseboxes.html ) in the near future. That indeed is one busy cockpit Captain! What are the four switches for? I took some measurements for posterity since you raised a concern I hadn't even thought of - https://photos.app.goo.gl/Qe31T5BHgyQcgnwS9 Regarding the switch position - I find it doesn't eat up enough space to bother me and it also lines up well with the soft webbing between thumb and forefinger, so I don't feel any pressure point from it or anything while riding.
  3. throttle - https://photos.app.goo.gl/9yKT5bfkp2QNmLcy5 clutch - https://photos.app.goo.gl/6D7pHNvVu9hEFdvg9
  4. I have been running these for a few yrs and they've been good so far: https://kosonorthamerica.com/product/apollo-heated-grips-universal-fit-120mm/ I did not like the boxy Oxford controller at all, and the Koso's have the switch integrated into the left grip edge, which I liked better. They get plenty hot (5 settings, color coded via the single LED at the switch), the control is super easy.... right there by my thumb if my hands get cold. You do have to reach over/past the grip heat switch to get the horn, but this is no big deal to me. Seem to be good quality, nicely made, nicely terminated for easy install also.
  5. congrats and welcome from VT! That looks to be a nice, unmolested 5th gen you have there.
  6. Yes, I believe I only removed the factory film from the front only.
  7. I believe I took the metal off as I definitely replaced the entire film from edge to edge. I think that metal piece kind of clips behind the unit on the sides where the little arms go into the board. Can you lift the whole board out from the white housing to see the back side? Sorry for the highly technical lingo, you caught me in the middle of happy hour, cheers!
  8. I agree with Grum, that damage looks like just the polarizing film to me. The factory applied film is just stuck down with adhesive over the glass LCD screen, which I bet is fine under there. When I modified mine I was able to remove the film fairly easily, then cleaned the glass with glass cleaner/goo gone/etc., and then installed the new film at 90deg rotation. It seemed daunting at first (sensitive electronics don't agree wth my gorilla fingers and smash-all tendencies), but once I got going it was all pretty easy and straightforward. It doesn't look like I took any pics of the process, but here is the end result: https://www.dropbox.com/s/5pl76rhgm9vg5ux/dash.jpg?dl=0
  9. Terrible news, what a loss. We only ever interacted on the forum / on the headers, but it was clear he was a great person. His presence here felt noteworthy and meaningful in our little VFR community. My condolences to those that knew Lance, may you find peace in time. I'm proud to have a set of WyLD headers, they were such a labor of love to bring into existence. I'll think of Lance next time I hear them sing.
  10. I have the BW high mount link pipe with one of their carbon cans. The link pipe is fine, on par with the rest of their quality (nice, but affordable nice not expensive nice), no qualms there. While the pipe itself probably doesn't affect sound very much, since you asked: The sound with the baffle in place is great for street riding in my opinion, it has enough V4 growl and isn't too loud or shrill. I've been happy with it, plenty loud when you get on it, plenty quiet when you are in town or just cruising. FWIW, I have a TBR low mount stainless can and think the sound is much harsher/ more barky. HTH
  11. Even if the 'new' o rings were NOS from a bag on a shelf they'll still probably be 100x better than what you are replacing. The o rings in my bike were totally spanked when I removed them... square, brittle and covered in mineralization. I also used the AS3 clamps with their hose kit and it all went swimmingly and I haven't had any issues since. My bikes live in a barn in the winter (no heat) here in VT so they see all our winter lows (regularly colder than -10 F, often a few nights of -20 F).
  12. adkfinn

    20180826_153948.jpg

    Yes, you have to drill out the the holes. it isn't much, mostly just the existing threads, but you aren't going to reverse it without a tap&die and custom bolts of some kind. I have no intention of going back to factory, I only use the front portion of the Sargent seat so that the cowl creates a nice little storage space for rain layers / spare visor / etc.
  13. adkfinn

    20180826_153948.jpg

    they are the Sargent quick release pins. not exactly a great deal price wise, but they look and work just fine.
  14. awesome Hawks gents! I have always wanted one of these. I have a buddy who races one in USCRA, such cool machines.
  15. Thank you Miguel!!!! So happy this site will continue to be a resource and gathering place us like minded VFR-loving folks
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