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adkfinn last won the day on July 3 2019

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About adkfinn

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    Factory Team Rider

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  • Location
    Montpelier, VT
  • In My Garage:
    1998 Honda VFR800
    1981 Honda CB750F
    1988 Honda VT600C

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  1. I'll second what Grum said - You have to choose a grit that will get the deepest scratches/damage out that the lens has already incurred, then work your way back to smooth with subsequent grits then polish. The scratched frosted look is scary when you start and are in the middle of the process, but it will come back nicely as you work your way through. I haven't used Brasso but I have seen it suggested elsewhere also, fwiw. Kevin - Based on your close up progress pic, I think you need to jump back to sanding and get those scratches out, then bring the entire surface back to polished. Also - I wouldn't suggest you sand your light if it doesn't have scratches/need it. You could hit it with cutting compound if you have it, then polish. I would only go as coarse as necessary to remove imperfections, no further. The end result should be the same, it will only take you longer to get there. edit - this is a good prompt to get my spare light out and get going on my clean up and retrofit. I am still thinking I'll go with bi-xenon projectors, the newer led projectors don't seem to be ready for prime time yet to me. Are you considering any mods while you are working on the headlight?
  2. How bad is it? Post up a pic when you can, it should help narrow down the advice. I have done a handful of plastic headlight lenses before. My advice would be to save yourself some money and don't buy a kit. Here is what I have done successfully: - wet sand first (pick your starting grit based on the amount of damage, work up through the grits from there, all the way to something very fine (at least 1000 grit, higher maybe) any old wet/dry paper will work, I do this part by hand also, fyi. - liquid plastic polish second using a variety of pads, coarsest first, smoothest last. I typically use like a cut, polish, wax pad in that order. I use either a DA polisher or a small pad on a cordless drill and Meguire's Plast-X or similar product here (which I already have on hand anyway). - sealant comes third and is the last step to make sure your hard work doesn't fade too quickly. so far I have had good luck with this 3M product - https://www.amazon.com/3M-Quick-Headlight-Clear-39173/dp/B079QL8BYK/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=3m+headlight+sealant&qid=1580756501&sr=8-5 edit: this product is a wipe and includes a sanding disc (tiny) - there used to be a small bottle of sealant as a stand alone product (which I have). Not sure if they deep sixed it, I'll update later if I can find it. That said, I wouldn't characterize Vermont as a harsh sun/UV climate so your results may vary. Just like painting, this is one of those 'prep is 90% of the job' kind of jobs, quality and thorough prep will garner the best results, so patience is key. This process has worked well for me over the years and I've saved some money since the kits tend to see like overpriced, single serving nonsense... especially given that I have sandpaper, plast-x, and the tools I need on hand already anyway. HTH!
  3. two comments: 1. WD40 is not a good penetrating oil. Something like Kroil or PB Blaster, etc. would be better. 2. An impact wrench will make this and many other jobs on the bike much, much easier to complete, especially if you are a one man wrecking crew.
  4. adkfinn

    Just bought

    My rec for gas is anything ethanol free: https://www.pure-gas.org/extensions/maps.jsp also - I am in the US and use Partzilla for parts pretty often, they have the factory schematics / parts diagrams as well, which is helpful in and of itself.
  5. I kept it simple and ordered Jamie's cartridge kit all set up for my weight and riding style at the same time as my BD40 rear shock. I couldn't be happier, Jamie's stuff is tops. My "factory" front forks are amazing now, I'd do it again in without a doubt. If you are determined to change fork legs or stanchions (nuclear options) I can't offer any insight, but, for now, I am very happy with the way my bike is setup and rides.
  6. Here is where I got mine: https://www.wiremybike.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_8&products_id=630 Full kit for just under $50. It doesn't show a detailed list, but there is a quantity and general description. HTH
  7. Welcome to the club! I also snagged my red 5th gen from CL for $2k. I am always amazed by what a value these bikes are used.
  8. I would suggest going through the factory bleeding process (again?): https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/files/file/171-98-01-honda-vfr-service-manual-optimized-bookmarked/ It sounds like something isn't right if your lever feel is that soft and/or brake performance is that weak. I flushed and rebuilt my brakes including all three master cylinders, installed braided lines and EBC HH pads, and my braking performance is great. Lever pull is short & linear, braking force available is far in excess of requirements, easy two finger braking is more than enough in most riding situations. Post brake overhaul I have even been running with my adjustable lever set at the second or third position (much closer to the bars) since I am able to exert maximum brake force well before the lever contacts the grips. I did install speed bleeders and also used a mity-vac during my refurb and bleeding, which may have helped me get positive results.
  9. I installed this kit on my 98 and find it to be high quality and excellently priced. AS3 sells on ebay also... with free shipping iirc.
  10. I have some marks on the left side of my dash as well, visible but no real deformation. My bike got a tinted double bubble at some point prior to my ownership and I haven't noticed any issue since I've had it.
  11. No pics, but I managed to get out on my '98 for a few hours yesterday to enjoy the unseasonably warm 64 degree F afternoon we had in Central VT yesterday. Probably my last good ride for the year, but I always try to squeak in a few short, low mileage rides in November also.
  12. Another big guy 'weighing in' - I am about 240lbs and installed Jamie's full suite of current products this spring (cartridges/springs in the front, a bd40 in the rear). The improvement in handling is a revelation. Hands down the biggest improvement/increase of my enjoyment of this bike by far. More comments and some pics in my thread -
  13. Hi Anonymous, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion
  14. Here's the link to the service manual, fyi. Also - the hoses you have blue taped in the earlier photo are the hoses you use for the starter valve sync and, if you look closely, they are numbered for each cylinder from the factory.
  15. All told - 35k miles is nothing for a VFR, that mileage wouldn't even phaze me if I was shopping. One thing worth asking the owner of the 35k mi bike is whether or not the valves have been checked (even better if he can prove it), since the maintenance interval for this 'expensive to have a shop do it for you' service is 16k miles IIRC and this bike should have def had it done at 32k mi even if the earlier interval was skipped or missed. I paid $2k for my 1998 with 25k mi in very nice condition a couple of years ago (in New England fwiw), but I scored a bit of a deal if I do say so myself. 5th gens sit for sale on Craigslist and FB for months with asking prices ~ $3k. I agree that your $5k bike is probably above market price, but like others have said 'buy the best one you can afford' especially if you aren't looking for a wrenching project.
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