adkfinn

I have Bowtex leggings and really like them. Based on my experience I would order a top if I had the need. https://bowtex.com/

It was $1,220 for the whole shebang (I find it to be very worth it). The rear BD40 was $675 at the time, but it was a release special. Jamie's current pricing is here: http://daughertymotorsports.com/honda/ Feel free to email him with questions - I've always found him to be responsive and supportive.

1982 was the first year of the blacked out engines/cases (in the US at least), which that concept/render looks most like in my opinion. They also changed the decal design and pulled it back onto the side of the tank only (the '81's wrapped around the corner onto the 'front' of the tank if you will). '82: '81:

Did anyone order and receive goods yet? If so, I'd love o hear about the accuracy of the pics and quality of the apparel. If this stuff is decent/worth it I am tempted to get a hoodie

pics added above, i don't think my edit 'churned' the post. she's dirty (spring in VT is not a tidy endeavor). If you go the chop chop route - DEI makes lite'n'bolts that I've used on other vehicles in the past with good luck, saves you having to cut a third hole, find a way to mount something in a tight spot, etc. https://www.designengineering.com/lite-n-boltz-plate-kit/

I'll get you a few pics this evening. Edit - Took me a hot minute to remember how to embed images from Dropbox - here you go:

The factory fender was trimmed on my bike when I got it. It isn't great up close, but it is decent overall and cleans things up enough that I haven't been bothered by it. I will get you a pic or two if you want, just let me know.

Hi adkfinn, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Meet you in the middle once we are allowed to ride?

Cheers Cogswell, happy anniversary. This forum is an excellent place to be. I also am here 10x as much as I am on VFRW. This group is very much my style and speed. Thanks for the wealth of your contributions over the years.

Welcome. x2 on the pics and intro request. Prior to riding too much I'd suggest searching for 'the drill' on this site or vfrworld.com and perform the prescribed tests on your charging system components -and- verify what model R/R you have. It sounds like that bike has had some good maintenance, but is definitely worth inspecting the clutch fluid and reservoir, coolant condition/level/reservoir. Also keep an eye on your coolant temps - the thermostat should open at approx. 175F/80C. From a cold start, the bike should come up to that temp, then cool slightly (5-10F). If you bike doesn't come up to that temp from cold in temperate weather, it likely means that your thermostat is failed open (mine was when I bought it). If I recall you can also feel the right side radiator, it should remain cold until the t-stat opens. If it gets warm from startup you t-stat has failed (open). Here's some Friday optimism: Hopefully the person you bought it from wasn't mechanically inclined and has confused a valve adjustment with a 'top-end rebuild'. I'd look for the receipt in the records you received and see if you can confirm what was actually done.

I'll second what Grum said - You have to choose a grit that will get the deepest scratches/damage out that the lens has already incurred, then work your way back to smooth with subsequent grits then polish. The scratched frosted look is scary when you start and are in the middle of the process, but it will come back nicely as you work your way through. I haven't used Brasso but I have seen it suggested elsewhere also, fwiw. Kevin - Based on your close up progress pic, I think you need to jump back to sanding and get those scratches out, then bring the entire surface back to polished. Also - I wouldn't suggest you sand your light if it doesn't have scratches/need it. You could hit it with cutting compound if you have it, then polish. I would only go as coarse as necessary to remove imperfections, no further. The end result should be the same, it will only take you longer to get there. edit - this is a good prompt to get my spare light out and get going on my clean up and retrofit. I am still thinking I'll go with bi-xenon projectors, the newer led projectors don't seem to be ready for prime time yet to me. Are you considering any mods while you are working on the headlight?

How bad is it? Post up a pic when you can, it should help narrow down the advice. I have done a handful of plastic headlight lenses before. My advice would be to save yourself some money and don't buy a kit. Here is what I have done successfully: - wet sand first (pick your starting grit based on the amount of damage, work up through the grits from there, all the way to something very fine (at least 1000 grit, higher maybe) any old wet/dry paper will work, I do this part by hand also, fyi. - liquid plastic polish second using a variety of pads, coarsest first, smoothest last. I typically use like a cut, polish, wax pad in that order. I use either a DA polisher or a small pad on a cordless drill and Meguire's Plast-X or similar product here (which I already have on hand anyway). - sealant comes third and is the last step to make sure your hard work doesn't fade too quickly. so far I have had good luck with this 3M product - https://www.amazon.com/3M-Quick-Headlight-Clear-39173/dp/B079QL8BYK/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=3m+headlight+sealant&qid=1580756501&sr=8-5 edit: this product is a wipe and includes a sanding disc (tiny) - there used to be a small bottle of sealant as a stand alone product (which I have). Not sure if they deep sixed it, I'll update later if I can find it. That said, I wouldn't characterize Vermont as a harsh sun/UV climate so your results may vary. Just like painting, this is one of those 'prep is 90% of the job' kind of jobs, quality and thorough prep will garner the best results, so patience is key. This process has worked well for me over the years and I've saved some money since the kits tend to see like overpriced, single serving nonsense... especially given that I have sandpaper, plast-x, and the tools I need on hand already anyway. HTH!

two comments: 1. WD40 is not a good penetrating oil. Something like Kroil or PB Blaster, etc. would be better. 2. An impact wrench will make this and many other jobs on the bike much, much easier to complete, especially if you are a one man wrecking crew.

My rec for gas is anything ethanol free: https://www.pure-gas.org/extensions/maps.jsp also - I am in the US and use Partzilla for parts pretty often, they have the factory schematics / parts diagrams as well, which is helpful in and of itself.