adkfinn

I have some marks on the left side of my dash as well, visible but no real deformation. My bike got a tinted double bubble at some point prior to my ownership and I haven't noticed any issue since I've had it.

No pics, but I managed to get out on my '98 for a few hours yesterday to enjoy the unseasonably warm 64 degree F afternoon we had in Central VT yesterday. Probably my last good ride for the year, but I always try to squeak in a few short, low mileage rides in November also.

Another big guy 'weighing in' - I am about 240lbs and installed Jamie's full suite of current products this spring (cartridges/springs in the front, a bd40 in the rear). The improvement in handling is a revelation. Hands down the biggest improvement/increase of my enjoyment of this bike by far. More comments and some pics in my thread -

Hi Anonymous, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Here's the link to the service manual, fyi. Also - the hoses you have blue taped in the earlier photo are the hoses you use for the starter valve sync and, if you look closely, they are numbered for each cylinder from the factory.

All told - 35k miles is nothing for a VFR, that mileage wouldn't even phaze me if I was shopping. One thing worth asking the owner of the 35k mi bike is whether or not the valves have been checked (even better if he can prove it), since the maintenance interval for this 'expensive to have a shop do it for you' service is 16k miles IIRC and this bike should have def had it done at 32k mi even if the earlier interval was skipped or missed. I paid $2k for my 1998 with 25k mi in very nice condition a couple of years ago (in New England fwiw), but I scored a bit of a deal if I do say so myself. 5th gens sit for sale on Craigslist and FB for months with asking prices ~ $3k. I agree that your $5k bike is probably above market price, but like others have said 'buy the best one you can afford' especially if you aren't looking for a wrenching project.

I second all this. Stompgrip has made an immeasurable improvement of the bike/rider interface on my 5th Gen. Tons of grip for my knees, between this and a Sargent seat my body is much more planted and I completely cured that 'sliding into the tank' feeling I had with the stock seat and no side grip. I use a generic carbon fiber tank pad to protect from paint damage from zippers/etc. There is a 'Stompgrip is cheating' thread here or on VFRW that covers this in more detail, including what Stompgrip fits well and how to trim it (there is no custom cut option for the 5th Gen). Edit - I see that you have an 8th Gen, so my comments about what will fit are null, but the feel/experience with Stompgrip is still relevant.

I like the bronze of the 8th Gen a lot. In fact, I would like to have bronze wheels on my red 5th gen. Funny how we tend to want something different than what came as factory. If they all came with white wheels how many folks would be painting them black? My guess is quite a few...

I installed Jamie's BD40 rear shock and BD20 fork cartridge kit on my 5th Gen this season. They are amazing, completely transforms the bike and the fit and finish is top notch. More here -

They are still made and available from most aftermarket windscreen brands - Zero Gravity, Givi, MRA.... Not sure where you looked but revzilla has some options - https://www.revzilla.com/parts/1998-honda-vfr800-interceptor#page=1&sort=featured&limit=96&facets[]=2403&price=&price_min=1&price_max=1549&is_new=false&is_sale=false&is_made_in_usa=false&has_video=false&is_holiday=false&is_blemished=false MRA - https://www.mrashop.de/com/model-based-products/honda/vfr-800/bj-98-01/ PUIG - https://puigusa.com/en/tuning-motos/windscreens-for-fairing-bikes/racing-screen?bike=5962 edit - Powerbronze also makes a taller windscreen in what appears to be a large variety of tints/colors - https://www.powerbronze.co.uk/honda-vfr800f-98-01-420-h117.html

This was exactly where I was at also. I have no regrets about the chain size, the only thing I am still curious about is trying 16/45 next time around, since 17/45 wasn't a drastic change and I think it could be geared a bit lower still.

You are correct, the gear change was noticeable and due to that I can't attest to changes felt moving from 530 to 520 since it happened at the same time. I have about 1k mi on the new 520 setup and I will say that it performs just fine, no issues. I think that DID specs the chain I am using for bikes up to 1200cc, so our little, 20+ year old 782cc is well within the chain's tolerance, even comically so.

Brief suspension update now that I've ridden 500 miles or so - The DMr setup front and rear is amazing, it truly transforms the bike from stock (especially for 200+ lb riders like me I suspect). Install was seamless and Jamie's initial setup based on the info that I sent him feels great. The bike is so settled at lean compared to before, it is uncanny. For me, the differences are so drastic that I feel like I am re-learning how to ride this bike. Behavior is improved across the board. No more brake dive, no more wallowing and shifting in corners... it is just settled, stable, and predictable. I am looking forward to riding it more and fully dialing it in.

No worries, no offense taken, just wanted to clarify my plans for the headlight. Also, I missed your earlier question - I have almost 28k on my bike.

Jim, I can't speak to normal operating temps in FL, but if the history and service life of your thermostat in unknown or questionable I'd suspect that it might not be opening all the way. When I bought my bike it was just the reverse, the tstat had failed open and was resulting in cooler than normal operating temps at speed and slower rises in traffic, at stops, etc.