adkfinn

I have the BW high mount link pipe with one of their carbon cans. The link pipe is fine, on par with the rest of their quality (nice, but affordable nice not expensive nice), no qualms there. While the pipe itself probably doesn't affect sound very much, since you asked: The sound with the baffle in place is great for street riding in my opinion, it has enough V4 growl and isn't too loud or shrill. I've been happy with it, plenty loud when you get on it, plenty quiet when you are in town or just cruising. FWIW, I have a TBR low mount stainless can and think the sound is much harsher/ more barky. HTH

Even if the 'new' o rings were NOS from a bag on a shelf they'll still probably be 100x better than what you are replacing. The o rings in my bike were totally spanked when I removed them... square, brittle and covered in mineralization. I also used the AS3 clamps with their hose kit and it all went swimmingly and I haven't had any issues since. My bikes live in a barn in the winter (no heat) here in VT so they see all our winter lows (regularly colder than -10 F, often a few nights of -20 F).

awesome Hawks gents! I have always wanted one of these. I have a buddy who races one in USCRA, such cool machines.

Thank you Miguel!!!! So happy this site will continue to be a resource and gathering place us like minded VFR-loving folks

FYI - if any Aussie folks are interested in one of these - one has popped up on FBMktplce -

Miguel - As many others have said. Thank you so much for your time and commitment to the site. This is hands down the best VFR site online and I have learned a massive amount from it over the years. I do hope we can either keep it going somehow or keep it online as a searchable database tied to VFRW perhaps or tucked away as a searchable archive? The knowledge accumulated here is priceless.

using throttle to burp on the center/side stand with the cap off worked for me. with respect to the thermostat - factory tstat begins opening at 176 degrees F. With the bike running, when the temp gauge reaches that figure, it should allow coolant to flow to the radiators. At that point (not before) you should feel a meaningful change in the rad temps ( I want to say that the right radiator warms first also? can't recall for sure) and also you should be able to see a small drop in the temp reading on the display also (2-5 degrees) when the tstat first opens as well.

This surprises me. I have a high mount black widow can & link pipe and am able to remove the rear wheel without removing anything else. I guess I incorrectly assumed any/all high mount options created enough room to do it? yowsa, guess I got lucky.

great write-up

Yes, this is the only hiccup of trying to use an off the shelf link pipe with the WiLD header. You'll need to stretch it a few 'mm' in order to get the two to play together. If you devise a way to DIY it, please share. EDIT - be careful stretching the link pipe, stainless loves to tear. There were recent pics from another user showing their torn link pipe after they had a shop try to stretch it for them... not sure which thread it was in offhand.

~ 50mm (mine measures a few tenths under, ~ 49.80mm)

Mine did

I'm running a Battery Tender lithium battery in my 5th gen. It is over 4yrs old and going strong. I do keep it plugged in to a tender during our cold New England winters. Nice weight savings, not much more expensive than AGM. I will eventually replace the batteries in my other bikes as well once their AGM batteries die out.