adkfinn

I have T30 Evos on my 5th gen and really like them. No issues with grip, haven't had any slip, but I haven't ridden them much in the wet admittedly.

EBC HH all the way. These are great pads, strong bite cold and hot. I have them on both of my bikes.

Short story: "Li-ion cannot absorb overcharge. When fully charged, the charge current must be cut off. A continuous trickle charge would cause plating of metallic lithium and compromise safety. To minimize stress, keep the lithium-ion battery at the peak cut-off as short as possible." I think this is one of a few reasons regular charges shouldn't be used on lithium batteries. From here - http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_lithium_ion_batteries I use this cheap Battery Tender model: http://products.batterytender.com/Chargers/PN-021-0199-DL-WH.html It auto detects (you can switch modes manually also) and seems to work well.

I second this, can confirm that this is the same as my 98 5th Gen. Right side rad cold until 175, then quickly itheats up, bike temp normalizes around 172. My old thermostat was frozen open also, and would begin to heat slowly from start.

Thanks!

I have a ZG Double Bubble on my 5th Gen and am 6'2". The wind does hit me in the helmet when I am sitting all the way up, but it isn't very noticeable unless I am at freeway speeds and even then it doesn't bother me much. I try to avoid riding slab if at all possible, but usually I just get a little lower and that solves it. For what it is worth, I am used to riding naked bikes however, so my tolerance for buffeting may differ a bit. I would be curious if a touring screen really made much difference for me, but probably not enough to buy one to find out.

It is a nice bike and I like it as well, but if the work gives you a sense of satisfaction and you appreciate the changes that is all that matters. On that note: Do you mind sharing details on the bar ends and reservoir cover screws? I have been looking for hex head screws in red for my bike but haven't been able to find any.

You are probably right, but for now I just re-greased it and am going to run it. I'll have another chance to do it soon(ish) when I do the suspension. I'll be taking a hard look at all the bearings and linkage during shock replacement so I can always tackle it then. I was hoping Jamie would have his new 'in-house' rear shock ready before I completed this round of maintenance, but at this point I will probably ride the rest of this year and plan on tackling the suspension as a part of next year's spring maintenance.

Weekend update - Front calipers flushed/inspected/reassembled, all brake lines replaced, master cylinders cleaned and replaced, clutch refilled and bled. I refilled the cooling system and ran the air out (no leaks so far with the AS3 hoses installed). Nothing very pic worthy here, the master cylinders all looked ok, no major build up or debris. Installing the master cylinder rebuild kits seems to have amounted to a 'piece of mind' only job, which isn't the worst thing in the world I guess. Last night I knocked out a few little details that I had been wanting to tackle before taking my wife for some parking lot practice on the '88 Shadow I fixed up for her last year. I had installed LED's in my gauge cluster late last fall and last night I completed the job by reversing the appearance of my LCD display. I also wired up a cheap USB outlet/voltmeter:: Then I decided it was a good night to give my fairings some love before reinstalling them. A light compounding, lots of polish, and a few coats of wax later:

If you do I am sure the board can help identify what you've got. You may have lucked out and scored a bike with a nice set of performance headers, which are exceedingly rare. The factory headers on the 5th gen were all mild which was painted black.

Nice looking bike. Are those headers stainless steel? It is hard to tell from your pics, but in the second pic it looks like they are stainless. Unless AUS spec 5th gens were different than US, those look to be aftermarket headers.... Did REMUS make a full exhaust at some point? I don't know their market history.

Also, I had been waiting on the larger seal for the clutch master cylinder. That came in with some other parts so I was able to complete the slave cylinder refresh and reinstall it along with the front sprocket cover:

Finally have an update... current status - rear is complete and reassembled and front brakes are in process. I pulled the sprocket carrier in order to replace the drive bushings. The area wasn't too dirty, but the bushings were looking and feeling pretty hard and brittle. I cleaned these parts up and in doing so discovered that the carrier bearing was feeling stiff and also quite notchy. I pulled one of the side seals, flushed the old grease and shot a bunch of new grease to see if that would help, but no dice. This put things on pause while I ordered and waited for new bearings to be delivered. Old rubbers: Once the bearings came in I could get back to work. I used a hand sledge and a drift to knock the old bearing out. I ended up using a big socket and my neighbor's hydraulic press to install the new bearing. The tools I ordered were the following: motorcycle bearing removal tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MAPN42/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This was of no use on the rear bearing as the included removers are too small for the ID of carrier bearing. Other/larger sizes are available from the manufacturer, and I may order one in the future, but didn't need it this time around. motorcycle bearing driver set: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CU8ZSLQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Again, the supplied sizes are too small for the carrier bearing install. I was able to use this tool to remove the bearing as one of the included sizes worked. Overall I like Motion Pro, I have some of their other tools and they are useful, well designed and work well, but this kit was still kind of a miss for this part of the project. I also inspected/felt/assessed the other bearings in the rear. From what I can tell the second roller bearing and needle bearing on the axle are in good condition. This was a bit of a nice surprise, but they are rolling freely and smoothly. So, for now at least, I did not replace them even though I have new parts on hand. Everything all cleaned up with a new bearing installed ready to go back together: With the new 520 chain and sprockets (+2 teeth on the rear) on:

' Thanks Mohawk! Bearings and tools arrive today/tomorrow. I am going to try to tackle it this weekend and your instructions will be a handy guide.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the input. I have a few days to figure out tools, new bearings won't be in hand until the end of the week at the earliest.