adkfinn

two comments: 1. WD40 is not a good penetrating oil. Something like Kroil or PB Blaster, etc. would be better. 2. An impact wrench will make this and many other jobs on the bike much, much easier to complete, especially if you are a one man wrecking crew.

My rec for gas is anything ethanol free: https://www.pure-gas.org/extensions/maps.jsp also - I am in the US and use Partzilla for parts pretty often, they have the factory schematics / parts diagrams as well, which is helpful in and of itself.

I kept it simple and ordered Jamie's cartridge kit all set up for my weight and riding style at the same time as my BD40 rear shock. I couldn't be happier, Jamie's stuff is tops. My "factory" front forks are amazing now, I'd do it again in without a doubt. If you are determined to change fork legs or stanchions (nuclear options) I can't offer any insight, but, for now, I am very happy with the way my bike is setup and rides.

Here is where I got mine: https://www.wiremybike.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_8&products_id=630 Full kit for just under $50. It doesn't show a detailed list, but there is a quantity and general description. HTH

Welcome to the club! I also snagged my red 5th gen from CL for $2k. I am always amazed by what a value these bikes are used.

I would suggest going through the factory bleeding process (again?): https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/files/file/171-98-01-honda-vfr-service-manual-optimized-bookmarked/ It sounds like something isn't right if your lever feel is that soft and/or brake performance is that weak. I flushed and rebuilt my brakes including all three master cylinders, installed braided lines and EBC HH pads, and my braking performance is great. Lever pull is short & linear, braking force available is far in excess of requirements, easy two finger braking is more than enough in most riding situations. Post brake overhaul I have even been running with my adjustable lever set at the second or third position (much closer to the bars) since I am able to exert maximum brake force well before the lever contacts the grips. I did install speed bleeders and also used a mity-vac during my refurb and bleeding, which may have helped me get positive results.

I installed this kit on my 98 and find it to be high quality and excellently priced. AS3 sells on ebay also... with free shipping iirc.

I have some marks on the left side of my dash as well, visible but no real deformation. My bike got a tinted double bubble at some point prior to my ownership and I haven't noticed any issue since I've had it.

No pics, but I managed to get out on my '98 for a few hours yesterday to enjoy the unseasonably warm 64 degree F afternoon we had in Central VT yesterday. Probably my last good ride for the year, but I always try to squeak in a few short, low mileage rides in November also.

Another big guy 'weighing in' - I am about 240lbs and installed Jamie's full suite of current products this spring (cartridges/springs in the front, a bd40 in the rear). The improvement in handling is a revelation. Hands down the biggest improvement/increase of my enjoyment of this bike by far. More comments and some pics in my thread -

Hi Anonymous, Thank you for your donation of 25.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Here's the link to the service manual, fyi. Also - the hoses you have blue taped in the earlier photo are the hoses you use for the starter valve sync and, if you look closely, they are numbered for each cylinder from the factory.

All told - 35k miles is nothing for a VFR, that mileage wouldn't even phaze me if I was shopping. One thing worth asking the owner of the 35k mi bike is whether or not the valves have been checked (even better if he can prove it), since the maintenance interval for this 'expensive to have a shop do it for you' service is 16k miles IIRC and this bike should have def had it done at 32k mi even if the earlier interval was skipped or missed. I paid $2k for my 1998 with 25k mi in very nice condition a couple of years ago (in New England fwiw), but I scored a bit of a deal if I do say so myself. 5th gens sit for sale on Craigslist and FB for months with asking prices ~ $3k. I agree that your $5k bike is probably above market price, but like others have said 'buy the best one you can afford' especially if you aren't looking for a wrenching project.

I second all this. Stompgrip has made an immeasurable improvement of the bike/rider interface on my 5th Gen. Tons of grip for my knees, between this and a Sargent seat my body is much more planted and I completely cured that 'sliding into the tank' feeling I had with the stock seat and no side grip. I use a generic carbon fiber tank pad to protect from paint damage from zippers/etc. There is a 'Stompgrip is cheating' thread here or on VFRW that covers this in more detail, including what Stompgrip fits well and how to trim it (there is no custom cut option for the 5th Gen). Edit - I see that you have an 8th Gen, so my comments about what will fit are null, but the feel/experience with Stompgrip is still relevant.

I like the bronze of the 8th Gen a lot. In fact, I would like to have bronze wheels on my red 5th gen. Funny how we tend to want something different than what came as factory. If they all came with white wheels how many folks would be painting them black? My guess is quite a few...