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This guy should be able to sort you out, he’s had everything I wanted for my 89 https://shop.xtremedecals.com/shop/category.aspx/vfr-series/38/

Are we able to buy replacement decals for the vfr 750f? I was planning to restore ours as it has been left out for like 10+ yrs, and a lot of the paint and decals are scratched and some parts were missing. Would it also possible to find one in websites or do they have to be custom-made now? We had one with HRC livery. But finding parts here in the Philippines is hard considering it was an import from Italy I think. Any links or advice would be appreciated!!!

So it's getting there, radiator on, fuel tank on Got new fuel filter as fuel lines between tank and pump Did just paint the upper thermostat housing that you mostly see, it was time for new bolt's as well Tomorrow I should get the new plug for the clutch cover, so could basically then fire up the bike as battery is charged. Need to get some fuel. If all goes well and it runs and no fuel pooring of carbs it needs fairings on still, and there is a thing to fix on upper fairing before mounting it So my plan to have it out during my 2 vacation weeks is getting a bit tight, but perhaps possible 🤞

I'm new to the fourm and new to VFR's. I bought a 1987 VFR700F Interceptor off a guy in Chicago for $300 and I've been trying to get the bike running. Im assuming the bike has sat for some years. I bought a new battery for it and was able to key it on and get the lights and dash lights on but when I pressed the start button the lights just dimmed down and kind of fluttered. So I figured the Ignition solenoid probably needed to be replaced so I ordered one and put it on but now when I key the bike on I get absolutely nothing. Battery voltage reads 12.65 at the terminals and at the Ignition solenoid. All the fuses are good and I dont see any messed up wiring anywhere. I need some help in the direction I should go if anybody out there knows common issues these bikes have. I appreciate any knowledge I can get thank you

Hi, guys. I'm new here and I have a 2000 Honda VFR. When I go to start the bike, it doesn't want to get up to 1300 rpms at first but then when you give it a little gas to get it up to 1300 rpms. You do that for about 3 to 5 seconds it stays running, but then the FI light comes on. Then the bike would idle at 1500 then after a minute or two it starts dropping in rpms until it dies.

Yeah, that's kinda what I'm driving at. Most screens that are cut like that, the top "plane" tends to match the angle of the top of the tank. Cheers!

As Stray points out, having a structural member in your garages ceiling has some benefits as far as options for lifting or stabilizing the bike I have a 1 ton chain hoist mounted above my lift. They are about $70 at HF. First pic I used my hoist to lift the bikes rear up as bit to do some work this Spring. Second pic I used the hoist to stabilize the bike at the handlebars as I was going hammers and tongs working on it this past Fall. Good tip over insurance without having to strap the bike down.

How dya gerron with the bars n hoses? For the foreseeable, I'm still running OEM hoses on my 1999 5th Gen, can't justify the expense of pre-made after market hoses, they're just way way overpriced, a bit of research proved I can source AN-3 braided hose for approx £10 p/metre, Goodridge style stainless or chromed adjustable hose end fittings for approx £5 each, do the math & it's a massive cost saving over paying for pre-made hose kits, plus I can custom fit each hose length to suit my own chosen routing. From my research, In the UK, Goodridge & Venhill are the only pre-made hoses/hose kits that use adjustable end fittings, hose ends are not interchangeable between brands, other brands only supply crimped ferrules, hose ends can be tweaked into correct orientation, don't expect them to be perfectly aligned when they arrive, from previous crimped hoses bought, I've rotated the end fittings into a better position using soft jaws in my bench vice & a plastic coated electrical screwdriver thru the banjo end, takes some trial & error to find the sweet spot on the ferrule so the banjo rotates easily. Update: My budget bar mod works mint, cost very little compared to what you've shelled out for ABM kit. eBay 5th GenTop yoke = £15 posted, needed drilling & repainting. eBay FZS1000 bar mounts = £10 posted, just needed repainting. ebay, ST1300 throttles cables, a few inches longer than 5th Gen cables, mucho needed with higher bars if you want to preserve stock cable routing. FZS1000 OEM bars (steel) black chrome finish, spare from my other bike when I changed to Renthals yrs ago. I did tried some spare Renthals that I'd bought yrs earlier & never used, not in a million yrs would they work on a 5th Gen, partly due to the bends in Renthals being quite far apart compared to road bike bars, Renthals are made for Moto-X, master cyl to fairing contact well before full lock. Took a punt on trying some old stock bars I'd saved from my FZS1000, these work to perfection, almost as if Mother Honda had designed them for a 5th Gen, no clearance issues at all, mucho improved riding position for my old back n hips too. First test ride lasted 2hrs plus, on the old OEM bars, even with 20mm risers I'd have been lucky to ride an hour without stopping & getting off for a mooch around, stretching my neck n back etc. Summary: This mod cost me very little, achieved a way better, more comfortable riding position, plus the bonus of my MRA D/Bubble screen no longer knocks the shit outta my head anymore, it now funnels wind at my chest, exactly where I want it, killed two birds with one stone kinda deal.

I hear you, Captain. I could “deepen” the groove my helmet would sit in, for example? Thanks for your input!

I lift my front end with a pulley from the ceiling, strapped to the handlebars. It’s quick and easy and cheap. This allows me to remove the front wheel and full fork assembly for rebuilds. Can you hang the front end off the ceiling? The front end is quite light and can be lifted by hand.

This has been a fantastic thread to read - thank you so much for sharing! I wish you the very best in your efforts.

I've tested from each point on the ECU connectors to a random coil, nothing. Tested from the black/white on the fuel shutoff relay (with it plugged), tested good to the injector, but not the coil packs. I tested coil packs from front to back, good. Side to side, good, but none of them will connect to the ECU or battery connectors (not sure if that should connect). Green/ground connects ok, although I have seen fluctuation. From the colored wire, to the ECU, good. I'm out of ideas.

It's this view that cements it for me. The shape of the relief/flare for the handlebars at full lock just flows better with the other bodywork pieces and tank. A little more organic looking. When final placement is done, trim the screen down a bit to compensate for the height proportions and you can even re-angle the top cut to (more) match the angle of the top of the tank. (If that makes sense)

Hello All, Im looking for two items and hoping someone in here will flog them to me: 1. VFR750 RC24 pillion seat cowl. I believe this is what we call the 1st Gen From around 1984? Any condition 2. VTR SP1/2 V piece. The bit that joins the two side fairings at the front, just behind the front wheel. I'm based in the United Kingdom but happy to look at offers from abroad so long as shipping makes sense. Thanks everyone! Stray

Not sure about a lurch but as the fibre discs wear, they become more prone to grabbing and engaging over a shorter lever span. I have replaced the plates in my 09 (with about 86000km) and that made for a lovely smooth clutch engagement. I used a TRK kit from Wemoto in Australia. The comments above are also very relevant, make sure all the other parts are clean and slippy i.e. the lever pivot, the clutch slave piston and the clutch pushrod.

Damn it Captain, you’re always right and make me rethink!

The mixtures were adjusted to their positions before measuring the power. The adjuster had to add a lot of mixture in the middle range and again at high revs the mixture had to be put quite lean. I will first make a small change to the exhaust manifolds as I think it could be one point that affects the power. At the point where the pipes connect, the inner diameter of the pipe decreases quite a lot. Of course, it may be that I am looking for a fault in the wrong place.

Thanks all for the replys.

Well, I think I might have found the issue... no conductivity from the black and white on the coil connectors to the ECU. Shouldn't I be getting conductivity, or not?

The forklift could easily lift this assembly like a pallet. If you put casters under it, you could push it around the garage easily. The 2" hitch would give you an easy way to attach it to your wall assembly.

I like them both. A big part of me likes the 1000F cowl. The larger proportions seem to work for me with the tank and tail.. Maybe trim the windshield down to reduce some overall "height". Anyway.... loving it!

Quick biker’s fairy tale for you guys. 5th Gen had a Rapid Bike Racing but she wasn’t completely satisfied and wanted “more”. So she skipped off to the woods and found RRPM in Meriden (where classic Triumphs used to be made). A nice man called Nick took the little 5th Gen into a dark cave and thrashed her mercilessly for 2.5 hours. She screamed LOUD!!! IMG_7441.mov You can see the puff of smoke as he lets off the throttle. She was rich when she went in… IMG_7446.mov …she was lean and mean when she came out. Breathless and powerful! Well, sort of. She went from 97-104BHP. That’s a 7% increase, which isn’t bad but I was hoping for more at the top. Midrange feels really creamy, though… Dyno results for the numerically inclined: He has an RC45 in his stable, so I didn’t mind waiting! Mods include: - Black Widow exhaust silencer with catless 1998 header - Open airbox with Pipercross filter - Uprated clutch springs (no slipping) And they lived happily ever after.

After replacing most relays and sensors, I came to the conclusion that something is seriously wrong. I let it sit for a while, with the trickle charger in place, and when I came out, I turned it on. Pump primed. I was pretty excited. I turned it off, and then back on (insert tech support voice), and it worked the second time. Third time, no pump, and the fuel shutoff relay started clicking, maybe 5 times. Turn it off and back on, 3 times. Off and on, 2 times. Off and on, nothing. Checked the battery (which is a new one), still full charge. At this point, to consider I could not get a repeatable result, I decided I was going to get the recall done before I tried anything else. Went to the local small dealer (not really much of a dealer anymore, but they can still do recalls and such. The closest real dealer is 45-50 minutes away). It was gone for two weeks, and I got the call, and picked it up. They said they were not able to get it to start, but the battery was also almost dead. I talked to the guy for a few minutes, and they basically said disconnect and reconnect everything, sometimes it works. Once I brought it home, I looked it over, and plugged in the trickle charger. They did a pretty nice job, and they even did a few things that weren't in the recall, like fixing the nasty solder/burn job on the secondary main fuse, or whatever that 30 amp next to the main fuse is. The first thing I noticed immediately, was that I was getting a prime every time. So that's a plus. Secondly, I was now getting codes. I have been getting 23 and 24, the O2 sensor heater wire errors. I tried to clear the codes, but either A) they won't go away and come right back on, or B) I am failing to reset it. I've had it flashing repeatedly a few times, which should mean that it was cleared. Thirdly, on one of the on/off, clear code, repeat cycles, I got a code 19, which is the ignition pulse generator. It went away with the reset, and did not come back on, but I pulled out the multimeter, and it showed 428 ohms, which is in spec. I had bought a set of sensors and relays from a parts bike on Ebay, and I plugged in the replacement, and ran it back and forth over a rachet wrench, and it was responding about the same as the one in the bike was when turning over, so I think the one in the bike might be ok. It's not testing 0v when turning over, in other words. I pulled a coil and plug, and I am still only getting 2.7v. This is the main issue, I'm pretty sure. The plugs are damp with gas, so I am not too concerned about the injectors, although I do need to test voltage on those. Today I went out with the wife, to go over the nifty ECU diagram posted on here. I started on the top right, and made it down to the IDC, and ran into two issues there. Yellow/Black on my bike, is the IDC sensor cable, not the PAIR solenoid. There is no Orange/Black that I can find on any connectors in that area. Just to make sure I'm looking at the right parts, the PAIR solenoid is the the solenoid in the back of the air box. On mine, those wires are solid orange, and green/red, if I remember correctly. The IDC (I believe the manual calls it the Bypass Control Solenoid Valve) is Yellow/Black and Black/White. My problem, testing from connector to ECU connector, Black/White is .1 Ohms, whereas Yellow/Black is 31.5. Something tells me, this is not good. There is no visible issues on the cable anywhere I can see. A) is the diagram incorrect? B) 35.1 Ohm from connector to connector is a Bad Thing(TM), right? Still, I don't think the BCS/IDC connector should be keeping it from running, right? I'm heading out to do more connection testing. Will update.

Hello All, It’s been some time since my last update so thought I’d pop in with a request: does anyone have an RC24 pillion seat cover they’re prepared to sell me? I’ve decided to finally pick a look and go for it, even if it’s not perfect, and the combo of choice is: 1. VF400/500 top fairing 2. VTR1000 SP2 side fairings 3. VFR750 1984 RC24 tail (shortened) That’s my 5th gen pillion cover on for trial but I’d like an RC24 (1st gen?) cover so it matches the seat fairing. Anybody got one they’re prepared to sell (based in UK)? My pole of “trial” fairings is getting out of hand now so have to finish this project and get my garage back! In there, you’ll find: - Ducati 1198 (in the box) - RC30 from Harris - VTR SP2 - CBR600 F2, F3, F4 and later models all jumbled up - Early Fireblade 900 and 919 - Leon Camier’s BSB GSXR600 carbon fairings (seriously!) - GSX1100F - VF1000F - Triumph 675 (3rd gen) - VF400 with sides and belly pans - VFR750 - Suzuki GS650 - Honda NS400 - Honda CB250 - Yamaha XJ650 - Honda MC18 - Honda MC21 - And a whole bunch of others I can’t quite recall just now Garage looks like a breaker’s yard - it has to stop!!! Doesn't look too sad with the VF1000 front but it may be too big visually for the rest of the bike… Happy to have feedback and vitriol! Please, if you have a spare VFR750 1984-88 pillion cowl kicking around, get in touch. Best, Stray