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The side holes had plugs, but the rear slot did not. PLUG, RR. COWL 77220-MBG-000

I’m not using my seat cowl as I’ve got a Givi rack fitted however I’m left with 3 horrible holes where the seat cowl slots in to. I’ve had a search online and can’t find much at all but can you buy blanking plates to cover these holes?

Look for a setup for 2010 VFR 1200

I’ve just cleaned her up after a very dirty weekend 😜 She was filthy, had to take the exhaust and link pipe off to clean it properly! Definitely getting the bug, got about 5 things on my wish list already! I’ll look in to the depairing as it’s definitely a touch anarchy low down. As for the mirrors I think they’re pretty good to be honest unless a previous owner has already bought longer arms for them.

The lady in red is in bits at the moment, I'm sure she wouldn't want you seeing her when's she's not at her best.

Welcome. You'll find good advice and help from the community here. Any photos?

Just wanted to say Hi from the UK. I recently brought an in need of some TLC, vfr800, 2007, in Candy red, as a bit of a winter project, it needs cam tensioners, panel bolts and clips, wheels and forks painting and a general tidy up to bring it back to a great bike again, oh and an MOT, its fairly tidy just needs a little love.

Better to choose oil by viscosity than WT. Maxima 7 WT is reported at 21.00 cST @ 40°C. There are alternatives around that figure if that's what works for you. I use Motul Factory line medium 10WT which is around 22.3 cST in my 8 Gen and seems to provide a good road ride for an 87kg rider https://www.peterverdone.com/suspension-fluids/

De-PAIR 👍 Makes low end rpm much smoother around neutral throttle. I fitted mirror extenders so I can at least see what's behind me. The important stuff has already been mentioned but then once you have a taste for it, where do you stop? 🤑

Well as I have had quit a few lately, I started to count what motorcycles I have had.... Guess I´m ahed of many but suppose same have had more. I have had, since I started riding motorcycles in 1988, a 125cc to begin whit, I have had 38 different motorcycles! Currently I own 7 of witch 2 I have not ridden one meter whit..... That`s street motorcycles I have had 18 dirt bikes to.... Of my street motorcycles (including plated dualsports)I have owned some has been projects I never finished and sold on complete or as parts, so never ridden them, 9 in total, the one I owned for longest period is 8 years and that`s my first VFR750F 1987 model, shortest owership has been a few months... of the 38 motorcycles 15 has been Honda, 13 Yamaha, 5 Suzuki, 4 Kawasaki and 1 BMW. 4 motorcycles have been 2 stroke, 2 125cc and 2 250cc. Then there is 2 I have not counted in as mine, even I ridden them as cared of them like mine as they where in former wife`s name..... The 18 dirt bikes, one has been a parts donor, the rest I have used, some has been plated (as possible here) some prue MX models, 8 KTM, 4 Honda, 2 Kawasaki, 2 Yamaha, 1 Suzuki as 1 Husqvarna, and 2 of them was 4 stroke, the rest 2 strokes! Some I miss? Yes a few! 1. the 1995 Honda Africa Twin that I had to sale to get money as I did divorce former wife.... 2. the 1990 Yamaha FZR600, a project I never finished, sold for same reason as AT 3. the 1986 Yamaha IT200S, a dirtbike that was plated, did a full mechanical restoration on it did run wonderfully, sold for same reason as the 2 above..... 4. the 1996 Honda CR250R, really nice MX bike I sold to cheap to get fund to buy a 4 stroke KTM dirt bike for son..... 5. the 1985 VF500FII I bought from Holland whit help of Dutchy! I should have had patience to sort it out, it was a candy! I throw the ball to you other to tell if you like

Somehow I've missed this thread. Good job so far. That blocky looking thing in the main harness just in front of your new R/R is a ground junction block. You should unwrap it, and make sure there's no corrosion going on in there.

Charging system, and suspension are the two best things you can do for a 5th gen. Everything else is icing on the cake.

I used to use ATF in the old damper rod forks on my ZX600. It worked fine. I use Maxima 7wt in the VFR forks because that's what Traxxion Dynamics provided with the cartridge kits. It works well too. I figure they might know a thing or two about suspension. I typically change the fork oil every 20K when I do my valve checks. Much easier to work on the front head with the forks out.

Universal Tractor Transmission Oil in everything? Just... why? What's the reasoning? How does it compare to other options you have tried?

Well done mate

Welcome DavidS! Fine looking 5th gen you have there! Per Skids .. definately highly recommend checking out your charging system... Also add a voltmeter up front to monitor what is going on. Cheerz and beerz

Ok, I kept bleeding the brakes and finally got all the air out. I repositioned the angle of the left caliper from where I had it at and it worked. The brakes have never been so good. Even when the bike was new.

Ok thanks I shall get it done although the brakes have performed without issue these last few days. I’ve just done 600 miles in 3 days and these are my views so far: - The bike handles far better than it has any right to. It changes direction as quickly as a naked, it’s pretty incredible really and it’s hard to believe it’s probably close to 250kg considering I had a full top box on. I did find it a touch soft at times especially on the rear but this also meant for a very comfy ride. - The engine lacks some bottom end grunt but really comes alive at 7k. Definitely not a slow bike and could keep up with most things if kept on the boil. - The gearbox is sweet, snicks between gears beautifully, no false neutrals and very easy to find neutral. - I found the the clutch very sensitive to even minute inputs, if I was pulling off and changed the clutch position even slightly it would jerk forward. Not sure if this is normal or if the clutch is slipping a little but there are no other signs of it slipping. - It’s a proper sports tourer and suited my needs perfectly this weekend. I’d say it’s more sporty than tourer and there’s definitely a bit of weight on my wrists. The standard screen was perfect for me, I’m 5ft 11.5” but I have very long legs so probably got the head position of someone that’s more like 5ft 8-9”. - Fuel consumption was very good, I worked out I averaged 49mpg and was getting close to 200 miles before needing to refuel. As the weather was nothing short of horrendous I’d expect it to drop a little in drier weather where I could push on more. I'm already considering what’s going to be on the agenda over winter. Firstly I think I’ll get the front calipers off and do a full rebuild of them. I’ll likely look at suspension refresh options, whether it be new OEM or aftermarket I’m not sure. It has an aftermarket end can but still has the original headers which are in remarkably good condition but I might look at replacing these too. All in all though the bike exceeded my expectations and I can’t wait to make it even better.

He recommended "disconnect battery for a minimum 4 hours and then start the bike with out touching the throttle letting it run until the fan comes on and then shut it off". Regards, Kent

In stock size you (110/90-16, 130/80-18) should find Bridgestone BT46, Pirelli SportDemon as Dunlop GT601 as matching pair. Bridgestone or Dunlop I would suggest

There is a plug and play 17" front rim, BUT its only 2,5 wide so tire selection is slim, even a bit better. It´s from a 1987-90 CBR600F1 Hurricane, it has orginaily a 110/80-17 front tire. A matching design rear is the 1988-89 Euro VFR750F RC24 rim as it use same design 17" wheels, the rear would be 3,5" wide as your current 18" so again stuck to slim rubber, 140/80-17 is correct size for the rim. I seen many put 110/70R17 tires on the Hurricane front rim, even done it myself, but the profile go bad and scetchy feeling leaning down is not good, so not recommended unless you just mostly ride straight roads. a thing also, the 86-87 VFR750 is not the fastest steering motorcycle I think, as I have the fork tubes 10mm up in the triples to get a steering behavior I like, and as a 110/80-17 is a hint bigger OD as a 110/80-16 and a 140/80-17 slightly smaller in OD than a 130/80-18, your steering geometry is going to get a bit slower

Was sabsteef's recommended reset just starting and running until fan comes on without touching the throttle, or something else?

Thats a sweet looking RC24 1986 you have been looking at! I own 2 1986 RC24, one Euro market, other is a North America version The RBW north america version will be orginal, sadly it suffers from a bad rear cylinder exhaust cam now, probably because of something blogging the oil flow.... The european that someone has painted red is going to have some uppgrades, I have retrofited 88/89 front turn signals on it but that needs some big holes drilled I have had before 2 RC24, a silverblue 1987 as white 86 On the 87 I had these indicators front that you still find on ebay You see I like the Japanesen market indicators to! And for knowlage to these RC24/26 you found the right man whit Captain 80´s!

don`t put on a 150/70 it will rob your power Bridgestone BT46 Dunlop GT601 Heidenau K65 Pirelli Sport Demon Metzeler Roadtec01/Lastertec Michelin Road Classic for rear only Not much offerings anymore

Apartly the upper taillight bolt been missing so why the fairing flyn away, the headligth will go next, big crack already and the tail light assembly is heavy, thats why the old plastic brakes. Plastic weld if you had the old part, support by melting a thin metal net on the cracks whit a soldering iron and the reinforce whit epoxy. But man you need a new rear tire also!