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Hi. It's an urban myth that keeping a battery on a tender is good practice, batteries don't respond well to being charged 24/7 & never use a car charger, you'll wreck any bike battery. Use a bike specific charger only & top up charge once a week (overnight) if bike's not being run regular. It's good practice to add a fresh heavy gauge battery to chassis ground, this alone will improve things massively, also completely bypass the bikes loom & wire stator direct to R&R minus the shitty 3 pin plug & wire R&R direct to battery, you'll have little to no running /charging issues.

I've been using EBC HH pads since forever, never found them noisier than stock pads. I'm concerned that the pad shims are that weird shape only covering 2/3rds of the pads & 1/2 of one piston. All my previous pads had full coverage shims. But I see you tried them without cooling shims & claim the same noise. If it was my bike I would clean the disc bobbins so they rotate freely then degrease the discs to remove any contaminants. Then make sure that all pistons in each calliper are moving freely after a proper cleaning. They are easy to force back with a wooden lever once pumped out a little, put an appropriate thickness block of wood in one caliper whilst you work on the other to avoid accidental piston pop. When cleaning pump them out half way so you can get all the crap off them, you should always do this when replacing pads, because you need them to retract fully to get the new pads in ! If not you may be forcing crap into the piston dust & fluid seals which will make them inefficient. Then of course you have to bed the pads. Empty road behind you, apply hard from 60mph, at least 3 times, allow to cool by riding normally & repeat above cycle one or two more times. Then pads should be bedded to the disc surface. If you only gentle brake the pads will take ages to bed in, they will be less efficient & noisier during that long bed in.

Thanks, I was able to finally get the connector off, and you (and I) was right, there was no pressure in the system. ...but that fuel line will not come off. I gave up for the night so I don't break anything while tired. lol I'll have another go tomorrow.

The fuel line is off the spigot, so fuel is depressurised, does that after a few minutes with no pump running. The Electrical connecter pic is not very clear, but looks like a waterproof one. They normally have a single locking tab which according to this pic is on the pump side so the release will be on the harness half of the plug. It will be a lift or squeeze to unlock. They are often difficult to separate due to the seal between the two parts. I can't find a pick of the other half of the connector.

Not sure if anyone is on here much these days, but I'm trying to do a full service on my new-to-me VFR1200X and I'm stuck with the fuel tank. You're supposed to "depressurize" the fuel system by disconnecting the fuel pump from the harness (which I can't figure out) and then after depressurizing the system, disconnect the quick-connect fuel line (which doesn't match the service manual). I'm baffled. The manual states there should be a "rubber cap" on the quick connect and a pair of tabs to squeeze in, what I have is an old school type with a plastic snap-in clip. ...except when it's out, the connector still won't come off. Maybe it's because I haven't depressurized the system, but I can't get that bloody plug to come free (see the dark photo of the plug). I'm not sure if it's a tab there that you push out with a flat screwdriver, or hold in with a flat screwdriver, but it's the only tab I see, and neither seems to let it pull free. I thought since the bike hasn't been started in a few days, there might not be any pressure in the system to relieve, but either way, I can't get that fuel line off and find it strange that it doesn't match the manual (not like Honda). Has anyone had experience with this themselves? ...any tips here? I don't recall having to do this with my 1200F back in the day. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have the same - love it. Good luck keeping that rubber thing around the top of the screen!

So decided that the old double bubble screen which has started to crack internally & has snapped locator lugs under the mirror mounts needed to be replaced. After a bit of searching the MRA screen whilst expensive looks the best. Before = Old Screen After = New MRA Screen The MRA screen is a little lower than the old one. Measured from the front of the steering stem bolt, old screen was 14.25" above, MRA is 12.5" above. At speed you need to tuck a little at 100mph to get the benefit from the new screen, old one was good to 120mph before you needed to tuck. At lower speeds they are much the same.

Leftovers from the KTM 😁

Haha TImC. All bikes have been ridden within the 35k to 43k kilometer range or 22k to 27k miles. When I finish restoring them to better than original condition I will only keep one. At least that is her plan.

😅 I know but did use what I had around....

I know this is very unlikely but it happened to me over the weekend so will mention it - My 02 VFR has a Power Commander. Was heading out for a ride, connected the battery and the bike would not start. Lots of cranking but no ignition, as if it were not getting any spark. Took me a few minutes to figure it out - my Power Commander has to be connected to the negative battery terminal. Once I took care of that the bike started right away Again, unlikely that's the problem but something that can checked quickly

Looking at the wiring diagrams, the 5v feed also supplies the TPS and the MP sensor (bottom right of the wiring diagram) I know what the TPS is, but what is the MP sensor? I have checked continuity between the MAP sensor and the ecu and it says its fine, but i have no 5v there. But the bike rides fine once its warm, just showing the error code for the MAP sensor. No other codes. If the 5v feed was gone to the TPS and the MP (whatever that is) then i think there would be more problems. It will also help me diagnose it if i can find the other sensors. scratching my head. Get as technical as you want, im an auto electrician for 10 years. If the other sensors werent on there id suspect a dead ECU I havent checked for 5v at the TPS or MP (halp!) as i ran out of time

Here's a link to the manual. Happy reading. https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/files/file/150-service-manual-6th-gen-2002-vtec-with-bookmarks-new-cover-ocr/&do=download Sounds like you need to trace from the battery positive forwards and find out why you are having power (or not) in unexpected places. You can pull a fuse at a time and see which one makes the instrument lights go out. There is a constant 12v feed to the dash but only for the clock. 6th gens do have occasional issues with the common earth block which is in the nose of the bike, usually orange or blue, these can get corroded and cause strange behaviour.

So I just bought an 02 vfr800 the people said it started when they got it from some guy I didint beleive them and was right. So I bought it for 600 bucks and towed it to my shop, I went over everything and everything seems to be grounding good and getting power and my fi light is not on but my injectors get no power there's a relay at the front that just screams if the bike is off I have no spark and the bike even when the key is off does not turn off all the way and the neutral and oil pressure light remain on. What is going on here. Do I need a new computer or what is happening

That’s a good idea. Thank you!

You should also check your starter relay(adjacent to the battery) and all its connections. Remove the rubber boot to get a good look at all the wiring terminations. Charging power from the rec/reg gets to the battery via the starter relay.

In my experience the HH pads from EBC can be louder when applied than others; mine certainly make an audible buzz when applied.

It's hit and miss, but sometimes the paint codes are shown in the part description for the particular part, as shown in the Honda Parts Catalogue. But this is usually only when there was more than one colour for the wheel. Check CMS.nl or bike-parts.fr. If the forks were all the same colour for all years, you may have to colour-match or best-guess it, based on the fact that Honda tends to use the same standard colours across many models for things like forks. Good luck. Ciao, JZH

My error, read over that somehow. Perhaps a compound change is in order. Similar but different, I bead blasted the rotor surface area on my FZ1 rotors and they were hella loud until I got a layer of pad material back on them. And after thinking a bit, I recall some Ferodo race / track day pads that were overly loud on my previous 1000RR track bike. Performance was OK, just more noise than other pads before. Swapped them for another brand ( DP ) and were almost whisper quiet comparatively.

Implied only when operated

Could we get the OP to clarify if the "angle grinder" sound is all the time or just when the brakes are applied?

I’ll probably be adding a small volt meter this time, I considered it 5 years ago but just couldn’t be bothered lol. So maybe this time…..

My bike has an issue where the throttle will cut out and the FI light will light up. As soon as i pull the clutch handle, the engine dies. If i turn off and on the key or flick the kill switch off and on, i can restart the bike. After reading the faults, it says it is the connector for injector 1,2 and 4. But what i fins weird is that it seems to be voltage related. While driving, it stays at 14.5 and i have seen a couple of times that it bumps up to 14.6. with lights off, the voltage will bump up to 14.7. If i drive the bike with all lights off, its just a matter of minutes before the bike dies. I have an issue where my light switch isnt fully seated on the normal light position, so whenever i put a light touch on my light switch, it starts to flicker off the headlights. Also the bike has started to cut out more frequent now when the park light in the headlight has gone out. Could this be related to the r/r? From what i understand, a bad r/r wont let the bike start up again?

For new pads they have a lot of scoring, compared to mine @37k Have you spun the buttons on the discs?

Sorry to hear about the failure. Heckuva way to start your riding season. 😞 The battery in my BMW is dying. (I've already bought the replacement, just need time to install it, as it's a real pain to get to on my bike.) I'm thankful to have a voltmeter built into one of the gauges - though I added that gauge, because the bike didn't come with a tachometer, and that gauge includes the LCD where the voltmeter and other information are shown. Having dealt with an electrical issue or two with my old VFR, I don't think I'd ever want a bike without a voltmeter now, whether it's built in or I add one myself. I hope you can get everything sorted and be back on the road quickly!