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Link pipe clearly needs shortening by an inch or two, use shorter tension springs & fit silicone rubber sleeves over springs to avoid metal fretting. I'm curious about the road tax disc fitted, it's looks identical to an old UK disc that we were forced to display over here for decades up until 2014, now not required.

Hello all, Following a gap in bikes for a few years I have recently bought a 2015 CR. I am looking forward to absorbing as much of the combined knowledge in the forum and of course getting back in the saddle 😁. Cheers Hinsy

For information: other members on this forum have suggested to replace the R/R with either Shindengen FH020AA or SH847AA (Suzuki part number 32800-31J00-000). I took this advice (the Suzuki, to circumvent buying a fake one) and bought a connector / cable kit at Eastern Beaver. To be able to switch back to the original R/R, I crimped on / applied Metri-Pack 280 connectors. As above photo depicts, I first took the advice from Eastern Beaver to directly connect the R/R to the battery, which got me in trouble since slowly overheating and blowing the added 30A fuse and a damaged fuse holder. I had a back-and-forth discussion with the owner of Eastern Beaver on the root cause and I am convinced their advice on connecting the R/R directly to the battery led to the issue in my situation. In short: I have a modification that allows running safety lights and this drained the battery since running a low RPM when passing the traffic jam. When I cleared the traffic jam, both battery charging and powering the rest of the bike go through the added 30A fuse. In the original electrical layout, powering the rest of the bike does not pass the main 30A fuse (in case of a running engine). Original situation: Situation with Eastern Beaver cable kit applied (similar to your situation now?): I returned to the original electrical layout and haven't had any issues since. You also seem to directly connect the R/R to the battery and although the fuse overheating/blowing issue might be specific to me due to the additional load from the hazard light modification, I would advice to stick to the original electrical layout.

There is a lot of great riding between north Georgia and Franklin, NC. The BRP is not a great ride unless you enjoy keeping it under 50mph and dealing with sight seeing traffic. It's also federal so a ticket is expensive. If you do the Dragon, do it mid week and as early as you can get there to avoid the parades. If you are there just before dusk, be aware that its the locals favorite time to run hard. Watch your mirrors. Around Franklin you should look for Ellijay Road, NC281, NC215, Charlie's Creek. From Franklin to the Dragon, you take Hwy28 which is awesome riding. You can loop over to Wayah Road back to Franklin for a change of scenery. You can easily ride out of Franklin and back for four days without covering much of the same roads. And WAR EAGLE! from the an '82 grad.

I no longer own a VFR, but when I did I used a K&N filter for the last 8-10 years of my ownership of it.

Reviving an old post. does anyone have any idea if these would fit the fifth gen? https://www.amazon.ie/gp/product/B0BX3WSLY7/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A37QSFXISPSOHL&psc=1

Piper cross

K&N Sprint BMC Butt dyno can't tell any difference, defo runs better than any💩 paper throw away filter imho.👍

In few words you summarized these tires perfectly 👍 Much better than I did with my POEM 😅 I Just add one observation I forgot to mention. Unlike the Dunlop Sportsmart (in my mind, my benchmark for comparison), Mitas seem much more sensitive to inflating pressure. For, "solo" use, I found the perfect fit at 2.1bar front and 2.3 rear, significantly less than my usual set (2.4front - 2.6/2.7 rear)

K&N Because its name sounds EPIC 😎 😁

Steel mesh screen, rusty and degraded from mouse piss, barely holding back stained Kleenex, insulation and kibble, with a top, mid-range friendly, layer of baby mouse carcasses. No air box lid for peak horse power.

Check out the government sites about closed roads. A lot of BRP is closed. https://drivenc.gov/

Another HiFlo vote.

Hiflo

Curiousity kills the cat, check poll.

My son is a sophomore at Auburn and picked up a Ninja 400 after a few years of riding dirt bikes as a kid. I’ve been on two for the better part of 45 years, and have had my ‘99 for over 20. I’ve made some long loops in my time, and would really like to plan a multi-day with my son this summer. We’ll start in Auburn and I was thinking to ride north-ish up into Tennessee/North Carolina. I’d like to hit the Blue Ridge (or at least part of it). I’m sure he’ll want to ride the Dragon (he’s a level-headed kid, but he’s a kid, and that’s THE thing if you’re a kid…even though I’ve done it and couldn’t care less). I’ve ridden the Cherohala and loved it. I’ve also heard about the Moonshiners Run? I’d like to keep saddletime to about 6-8 hours a day. In my experience, 9-10 hours riding starts to suuuuuuuuuck. Would love to have some cool places to stop/see along the way, and we’ll need hotel/cabin/etc each night but I can figure that part out. I’m thinking about 4-5 days, leaving Auburn on Monday morning, to avoid higher weekend traffic. I really want to avoid interstates altogether. Much prefer two-lane backroads, even if they’re not ‘twisty’ per se. Anybody done similar and can recommend a route, or even part of a route? Thanks in advance.

Yes it is ,now i work on mine which deside to tear number 1 cylinder's connecting rod bearing.I will post my full story here,soon.

I may try the Mitas. Your description is similar to the Shinko 011 behavior. They are stiff, warm up fast and turn in quickly. Last up to 3000 miles on my 4th gen and my Hornet