Walker1

Took it for a few shpins.. It has been behaving just fine and battery is maintaining the charge! I am still having the issue of a delay in the indicators. There is also a delay between turning the key on and being able to start the engine. Both seem to only happen when it's not warm out and both are intermittent. These must be a separate issue!

Thanks for your patience! The technique was appropriate but the meter... I used my neighbours and the reading I got seem more appropriate So battery voltage was 13.3-13.5 at idle.. 14.5 at 5000rpm The stator was 15-17 at idle and 55ish at 5000rpm for each of the pins.

I got a steady 5.92-5.96volts over all pin to pins I have got the new rectifier and have tested the battery voltage again. It's now around: 13 with engine off 14-14.5 idle 10-11 at 5000rpm. Bike sounds healthier with new r/r.. not sure if that's normal but I know the volts at 5000rpms are low!

Ok I done this! Pin to pin came back 0.2ohms just as before and for the ground to pins I got no reading whatsoever. So stator is good! Double checked the R/R and still, just as before there is back flow from one of the diodes! Ordered the piece. Should be here by Monday and I’ll be good to go hopefully. Could a faulty R/R also be causing the delays on my indicators? Thanks again for the help guys!

Is what I should see on the multimeter 0.L? If so then I believe that's what I got! I'll double check however👌

There is a slight bit of what seems to be black soot on the wires connecting the stator to the r/r but nothing burnt from what I see I have done the tests . The numbers are 0.2 ohms phase to phase, 0ohms ground to stator. The r/r has 3.6 going in and an ever increasing number coming out. The numbers for voltage are up there ^^

Is this not the ohms test? Negative probe on negative terminal and then positive probe to each of the terminals I had a look, little dirty but still intact!

I’m not sure how to be sure if my mete is accurate but unfortunately its the only one I have on hand! I did the ohm check on stator resulted in 0.2 on each did the AC voltage check with engine running and it resulted in 15-19V. Unfortunately I’ve only two hands and no clips so couldn’t test at 5000rpms! I have a service manual, everything seems to be pointing back to the R/R.. Something that may be helpful which hasn’t been mentioned.. I just talked to a mechanic who had a bike with R/R problems however it turned out to be the wiring instead of the actual R/R.

Tested again and volts climbed to 17V at 5000rpm. Confused for sure

Ok the voltage across the battery is 13.5 with engine off. around 13V when idle (13.1v with lights on) and dropped to below 13.5ish at 5000rpm. I had either the negative of positive connected to one block of connector and the other testing the pins then vise versa. I followed this video for guiding the process

Update! Checked the reg/rectified... There is a constant 3.6 on both green and red cables.. when I reverse the positive and negative the amount of resistance keeps climbing... This means the reg/rec is toasted?

Brilliant.. haven't checked the voltage as battery is still charging atm.. just unplugged the R/R and there is only five prongs is this normal? Another thing! I found a loose wire in the rear light.. completely hanging.. would that zap battery?

So am I right in thinking my frequent short trips of short distances in start and stop traffic could also be a culprit in the battery draining? Also, over 5000rpm is when the charging system is charging the battery? Another thing! I found a loose wire in the rear light.. completely hanging.. would that zap battery?

Thanks for the info, will follow the steps in the am! Could you show a picture with the ring connectors? The thing is I’ve been using it 5/7 days. Some of those days are just around the town doing my bits so constantly starting and stopping.. could this play a role on battery drain/lack of charging also?

Hello! I tried to start my VFR today and it wouldn’t start. Turns over when I press the ignition sluggishly and then.. thats it really! The bikes an 01 Fi with 23000 miles on the clock This happened before and I replaced the battery which is now about two weeks old. (I’ve also had problems with delayed indicators since I bought the bike.. not sure if relevant!). I turned the bike off and disconnected the negative terminal and checked the DC Amps. These were at .95-.97mAmps which were coming from the clock (disconnected the fuse to check) I then checked the voltage a