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Piper cross

K&N Sprint BMC Butt dyno can't tell any difference, defo runs better than any💩 paper throw away filter imho.👍

In few words you summarized these tires perfectly 👍 Much better than I did with my POEM 😅 I Just add one observation I forgot to mention. Unlike the Dunlop Sportsmart (in my mind, my benchmark for comparison), Mitas seem much more sensitive to inflating pressure. For, "solo" use, I found the perfect fit at 2.1bar front and 2.3 rear, significantly less than my usual set (2.4front - 2.6/2.7 rear)

K&N Because its name sounds EPIC 😎 😁

Rusty, degraded steel mesh screen from mouse piss, barely holding back stained Kleenex, insulation and kibble, with a top, mid-range friendly, layer baby mouse carcasses. No air box lid for peak horse power.

Check out the government sites about closed roads. A lot of BRP is closed. https://drivenc.gov/

Another HiFlo vote.

Hiflo

Curiousity kills the cat, check poll.

My son is a sophomore at Auburn and picked up a Ninja 400 after a few years of riding dirt bikes as a kid. I’ve been on two for the better part of 45 years, and have had my ‘99 for over 20. I’ve made some long loops in my time, and would really like to plan a multi-day with my son this summer. We’ll start in Auburn and I was thinking to ride north-ish up into Tennessee/North Carolina. I’d like to hit the Blue Ridge (or at least part of it). I’m sure he’ll want to ride the Dragon (he’s a level-headed kid, but he’s a kid, and that’s THE thing if you’re a kid…even though I’ve done it and couldn’t care less). I’ve ridden the Cherohala and loved it. I’ve also heard about the Moonshiners Run? I’d like to keep saddletime to about 6-8 hours a day. In my experience, 9-10 hours riding starts to suuuuuuuuuck. Would love to have some cool places to stop/see along the way, and we’ll need hotel/cabin/etc each night but I can figure that part out. I’m thinking about 4-5 days, leaving Auburn on Monday morning, to avoid higher weekend traffic. I really want to avoid interstates altogether. Much prefer two-lane backroads, even if they’re not ‘twisty’ per se. Anybody done similar and can recommend a route, or even part of a route? Thanks in advance.

Yes it is ,now i work on mine which deside to tear number 1 cylinder's connecting rod bearing.I will post my full story here,soon.

I may try the Mitas. Your description is similar to the Shinko 011 behavior. They are stiff, warm up fast and turn in quickly. Last up to 3000 miles on my 4th gen and my Hornet

I have a pair of E36 Monokey side cases for sale, very good condition. Also for sale, a Givi WingRack II (for 6th gen), alows to mount three cases. Asking CAD 350 (or $250 US) for the luggage, $125 for the rack (or $90 US). Plus shipping from Ottawa, Ontario. Can possibly deliver in the Sherbrooke/Montreal/GTA/Windsor corridor.

If you know, you know what it is... CAD$ 125, or about 90 USD plus shipping.

Yes, yes, yes! Increasing the MASTER PISTON AREA will lead to a smaller lever's travel to move the oil needed for SLAVE PISTONS action. I prefer this option because makes the lever more responsive and reactive (less action on lever = more action on calipers). Also, it creates more pressure into the system, giving the pads more force to squeeze the disk. Doing that we get a more consistent lever feeling, but I undoubtedly prefer a (slightly) higher effort on my fingers (because the lever is harder to be moved) in exchange for a more immediate and stronger action of the calipers. Personal taste, of course

Intuition is not always right... The main problem with changing the master : slave ratio in the "wrong" direction arises when the theory collides with the practice; specifically, when the front brake lever hits the bar (or traps your fingers). For various reasons, this situation is liable to occur at very inconvenient moments, such as when you're panic braking or otherwise at the bike's limits. On a practical level, if you increase the piston area of the slave (caliper) cylinders, such as when you plumb all three pistons in an LBS/DCBS rear caliper into the same brake circuit, but do not also increase the piston area of the master cylinder, you will increase the ratio, which results in: (a) increased lever travel, (b) easier/more powerful braking and (c) less "feel" over what the caliper is doing. That is why I recommend increasing from a 12.7mm rear master cylinder to a 14mm rear master cylinder when this is done as part of the de-linking modification. The 5th and 6th gen rear calipers have slightly different piston areas, and I found that the 5th-gen caliper combined with a 14mm rear master cylinder (CBR600F4i, etc.) results in a ratio almost identical to that of the 3rd/4th gen VFRs. Yes, within a certain range, brake "feel" is a matter of personal preference, but the brakes still need to work correctly, or you risk eventually hitting an object harder than your own body. Ciao, JZH

ElectroSport Fault Finding Guide View File ElectroSport Fault Finding Guide Submitter vfrcapn Submitted 05/04/2025 Category Owners Manuals and other  

And on the other side that connector looks like this, previous pic was my bike ~20 yrs ago. You can use cheap blade connectors and end up with the same problem, as I did. And try to solder stator wires still with bad connectors and a bad r/r: I finally got it fixed by eliminating connectors altogether and a new r/r. Sounds like you got it sorted out with a new r/r, 14.7 looks good. Just add the 30a fuse as mello suggested. Follow this flow chart to double check the stator and r/r output: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1091/5694/files/fault-finding-diagram.pdf?235929069374954073

OP still hasn't confirmed that there is actually mechanical problem with his engine from what I have read.

I would practice on some loose wires first before you do the real thing... Hint, hint... Also there is lots of good tips on soldering/heat shrink on YouTube.. I prefer to use adhesive heat shrink tube on stuff. (Dependant on wire size.) Examples... https://www.delcity.net/store/4:1-Adhesive-Lined-Tubing/p_820002.h_820003 I have found Cycleterminal and DelCity to be good vendors. Do a good job on your rework and you will be ok. Craftmanship counts. Cheerz

I'll get some heat shrink, and do that as well. Can't wait to be out on her again!

You got it, its best to seal up that connector to avoid water getting in... Good on you for soldering the stator wires, can you heat schink seal the wires?