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GREAT UPDATE! 🎉 After following your advice, I removed the thermostat and tested it in boiling water. It only started to open at around 98°C (208°F) — which is too late......... So we decided to run the bike without the thermostat and took it out for a proper highway test ride. The result? ✅ Perfect temperature behavior — even at steady highway speeds, temps stayed rock solid around 91–93°C (196–199°F). ✅ The fan now kicks in only when necessary and shuts off properly after cooling, just like it should. ✅ No more overheating, even in warm weather. So it’s clear: the thermostat was the culprit, likely opening too late or not fully. I honestly wouldn’t have guessed it — I had replaced the thermostat just 1.000 km ago, so I assumed it was fine. Turns out even new parts can fail, or just not perform as expected. Thanks again to everyone for your help — your advice was spot-on!

Glad to hear that normal service has been resumed. Maybe you had some water in the fuel? There is a strainer (like a stainless steel pot scubber) on the fuel pump inlet and also a proper filter on the pressure side. Water can enter these tanks if the filler overflow drain gets clogged and you park outdoors.

The only green 3-pin connector I can find in the wiring diagram. The visible part of the connector in your pic goes up to the bank angle sensor. Are the wires to the other end the crispy looking ones behind it? On my '09 Vtec the connector goes to the left and into the loom. Note that the wire colours differ on either side of the connector. This shows the early and post '05 wiring diagram of the relevant connector. Good luck.

I was hoping someone would have been experiencing something similar. I'm not normally one to just shotgun parts at something. Still haven't gotten in to pull and inspect plugs, but the bike's been behaving itself again lately so I don't know. I'm about ready to save this one as just some varnish flaking off inside the tank or something like that. At least, until it acts up again. I'll report back here if I figure anything more concrete out.

Great photos. Thanks for sharing! 🙂 I've been fortunate to ride amazing roads in that region several times, including during the VFRD spring ride a few times. I was hoping to get there again this summer, but it probably won't happen. Maybe next year!

For cleaning the aluminum parts check into building a vapor blaster-friend has one and parts look brand new or better after cleaning. It's a "sandblaster" that sprays water and glass beads with compressed air.

The FI light will come on if the ECM detects any signals that are outside of the norm. For example if the inlet manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor doesn't see a vacuum when the engine is running, the FI light comes on and the ECM goes to "limp" mode. That specific example can happen if the vacuum hose is not connected to the MAP sensor or if the electrical connector comes loose (or more likely gets forgotten by the mechanic). You'd be best to download the manual, clear any old error codes, then ride the bike until the fault occurs. At that point you can use the fault code to identify where the issue is coming from and (hopefully) rectify that.

Gotta pinch it a bit and get just part of the slot engaged with the bracket hole. Then keep pressure in that direction while you work your way around pushing in/thru a little at a time. Once you get some progress it will better stay at what you've accomplished so far without wanting to back out as easily. I know I pretty much just said the same thing I said earlier, but that's what works for me. And like I hinted at before, those are my least favorite to do, so I feel for ya.

I just recently purchased a 1999 vfr 800 from my boss/friend. Its a beautiful bike. runs great. until it doesnt..lol he said it will stumble and act slugish and fi light will come on. It hasnt done it to me yet but ive barely rode it around my little town until i register it. Im curious if dirty throttle plates will cause this issue. On a car it will. any help would be great. I ride my spyder to work but want to get this one on the rode. thanks

Sometime the small things get the best of us! I dont recall having such a hard time with mine... perhaps I erased it from memory 😬 I'm sure you've tried a lot of ideas... perhaps a bench vice could squash it in for you if you get one edge in juuuuust right...

Got the blunt screwdriver thing out, cussed and fussed another hour on the one grommet... no go. Eff it. In frustration jumped on the Valkyrie for a good thrashing... back later...

We meet in Franklin every May. Come join us and you will find even more roads that the locals share with us. There is also a Fall Ride in mid September that moves to different locations just to keep it interesting. We usually end up with a couple of groups so everybody can find a ride.

Twenty years ago I flew to Nashville, borrowed a 5th gen, and rode to Charlotte NC on all the best roads. Went home and bought one soon after. Last week I flew to Nashville, borrowed the same bike (only 22k miles now) and spent 4 days riding some of the same roads. I now understand why VFRD meets in Franklin. We stayed in Townsend, and just rode everything we could in the area. It was epic, and I will not wait another 20 years to head east again.

IMO, the fuel gauge is accurate. Concerning the first bar, I've noticed mine will go away between 20-30 miles. Doesn't matter if I just fill it up or pack it full.I've learned not to obsess with that first fuel bar thing and just ride I commute 140 miles daily with about 85 / 15 split of highway and backroads. Usually at 75 mph on the highway and rpms are dead on 5,000 at that speed. Go consistently in the 200-210 mile range before the last bar is flashing and typically putting in 4.5-5 gallons.

The fuel indicator isn't that accurate to be of any use. Track your fuel economy by fully filling the tank and write down the amount of fuel and mileage. I use autosist app to track fuel economy and service records. My 2002 is tuned for power and response via rapid bike racing and wideband O2 sensor. I target 13.5 AFR at smaller throttle openings and 13.0 at higher throttle openings. My bike averages around 7.8L/100km with a very throttle happy hand and lots of VTEC. If I cruise sedately I can get around 7L/100 or better.

Do it when your wife is out shopping and the pot will be fine. The action in boiling water is very obvious from closed to open.

A green 3-pin plug might be for the bank angle sensor but the wire colours don't look quite right. Any 12v connector can potentially melt if it gets some corrosion as that increases resistance and that causes heat. If the BAS circuit is interrrupted that will definitely stop the engine as it will interpret that as a tip-over and shut fuel pump and injection down at least. VFR 800 Electrical Schematic After 2005 Standard Type REV 01.pdf

The one on the bike is c7eh, so that's a third one now

Hey guys and gals, my buddy was riding his 05 VFR and it just died while riding. He found this green connection melted. Anyone know what it is & common solution? Thanks in advance

Some revealing testing can be done with a pot of heated water & candy thermometer, realism could be added by using a 50/50 mix. Hard to duplicate flow in system but it could reveal flawed openings,etc. mix might be hard on your favourite pot though😏

Thanks, BusyLittleShop! Hopefully today we’re going to remove the thermostat and see how it behaves without it. We’ve already checked everything else on your list — the only things left are a possible blocked hose or restricted water jacket, which we haven't been able to verify yet. I'll keep you posted with what we find!

+1 on Captain 80's. I actually have several tools I've modified like his. A long shaft medium sized flat blade, a small short shaft flat blade, and a small angle pick. The edges are all polished so I can manipulate stuff without gouging it.

Maybe as simple as pulling one from your bike to check against?

updated pics, found good lower fairings but just not in the pics. Still working on the darn spark plug problem. been tied up with my 86' ninja 1000r project.