All Activity

You need to clarify the issue and explain some more symptoms/problems. Do you meaning "sticking" after the bike has been sitting for a while? As in, won't roll in gear with the clutch lever pulled in?

hello my clutch plates are sticking badly where and how should i start to diagnose the problem ? what would your first step be ?

One of my '99s has had the SH847/Anti Gravity combo for 5 years. No issues whatsoever. The battery actually sat on the bench for over a year before I installed it, and I never had to charge it. Granted I never ride this bike for more than an hour at a time since it's primarily my "play" bike, but I'm still impressed. I also put heat shielding on the bottom of the battery compartment above the exhaust, and "Swiss cheesed" the lid since lithium batteries don't like heat.

I plan on putting up the bike for sale today. If I receive a high enough offer for the bags alone, I'll sell them separately since I have yet to find a 5th gen VFR on sale with them.

So a LifePO4 battery has a nominal voltage of 3.2v x4=12.8v a good 12v lead acid battery should have a static voltage when charged & rested of 12.7v. Nominal charging voltage for a LiFePO4 battery is 3.4-3.65v or for 4 cells connected in series 13.6-14.6v. Most bike 12v charging systems put out 14.4-14.7v maximum & if the battery voltage matches the rectifier's output voltage the RR shunts the excess to the heat sink, saving the battery from overcharging. So LiFePO4 batteries are quite happy in a motorcycles charging system. The higher voltage is only required for LiPo batteries which have a nominal 3.7v per cell, or 14.8v for a 4 cell pack. They are fully charged at 4.2v, which equates to a 16.8v charging voltage. But you really should NOT use LiPo in a bike, they are the ones that swell when not looked after correctly, as in they require load balanced per cell charging & if abused quite happily burst into flames ! Check out electric car fires online for reference. If your bikes RR fails then LiFePO4 reacts much like a Lead Acid battery, it will be overcharged & die, but LiPo WILL set your bike on fire. Your bike & your balls are at risk, you have been warned 😂

Thanks for the description mello dude. yes the pos and neg are right to the battery via 30A self reset fuse. I wasn't sure if there were any specific systems in the now redundant OE wiring harness plug that needed to be kept in tact. So I will just seal up that plug then. B.T.W. the stator plug was severely burnt when I removed it from the old R/R.

There were five VFR's at the SpringRide a couple of weeks ago. All of them had bar conversions. I had Helibars and will say the bar conversion is the better option.

Shouldn't be worse than an RC51, right?

Go with the SH847.

Fair enough. I had hoped to hear from you. Thanks!

I think you may need to pull up on it while pushing/pulling the tab on connector to get it free.

You may need to switch over to conventional hadlebars; there are kits available that either replace the whole upper triple clamp or simply add a couple of bar clamps in place of the clip-ons. Have a look for Hurricane handlebars from Webike Japan, or Trickbitz on eBay.

Gotta bag and tag and stay organized or I'll go bonkers...

I was wondering if anyone knows of any handlebar risers which can raise the height beyond what I current have which is about 2". They could probably go another inch and i'd like the bars to come forward a little as well. Not possible with these bars i'm guessing. Perhaps there are some which do. I'm trying to get the perfect rising position in terms of comfort which my VFR doesn't have yet. This is probably because I'm cruising around 40mph roads and not going fast! And don't put "grow longer arms".

IMHO -- the need for higher voltage on lithium Iron Phosphate batterys (LiFePO4) on charging R/R is some clever marketing... I have been running one of those batterys for years and have been using a standard Shindengen FH020AA for most of that. -What is the static voltage of the Shorai? - Also, getting any other new R/R other than a Shindengen FH020AA or SH847 is not a good idea based on hundreds threads on this forum. Good luck

I am assuming you have the power cables from the R/R direct to the battery. The schematic looks like And the plug can be taped up or I did a heat schrink tubing thing on mine.

The Multistrada is a bigger bike (taller, longer wheelbase, high COG) and about 80lbs heavier. Not much when comparing 900lb HD's but significant if under 500lbs. The Ducati is my overnight-and-longer travel bike. I'm really looking to downsize (literally) and the Tuono's (claimed, I know...) 400lbs is an important feature for me. It also has premium suspension standard, and other bells and whistles. We''l see how the ergos are.

Most of the used Tiger660's you see are for sale because someone is moving to a bigger bike for touring. It's a comfortable sport bike but not a great touring bike.

Ok, now that I've got the tank off ...I have a new problem. I've removed all the connectors from the bottom of the airbox, except the knock sensor connector. I have NO idea how this is held in place. I've tried everything I can think of, including a small, thin flat blade screwdriver down into the tab area, and nothing can free this connector from the tab on the airbox. In the manual image, it's the slotted tab to the right of the arrow. I'm completely stumped. Anyone? Video of it at the QR link.

Agree on the ergonomics of the Aprilia. Upper body forward lean is sporty but okay. But the footpegs are in a very sportbike-like position. Way too high for this old man, lol. Also, I don't know if things have radically improved, but when the Aprilia 660s starting coming out, I was hearing rumors of quality issues and lack of parts availability.

The ergos on the Tiger660 or 800 are way more old man friendly than the Ape. Less cool for sure but more all day comfort. There are a lot of Tiger660 leftovers for closer to $7k floating around. If you were closer, I'd put you on mine for a test ride.

Hi Collective, 6th gen Vtec 2003, I have swopped the OE R/R to FH020. heavier yellow cables to Stator and heavier red/black to battery terminals from new Shindengen plugs. Do I have to bridge or alter any of the OE plug to get other systems to work or do I just cover it up? thanks in advance.

Hi everyone, I have been lucky, but its clear that I have the R&R going out on my 99. In searching the forum I found the troubleshooting resources to identify the problem and I see what the fix would be. That being said, I didnt see any posts about replacement R&R units for lithium (Shorai in my case) batteries. I see some other options online that are for lithium and the slightly higher charging voltage. Has anyone installed any of these? I do have some additional accessories on the 12v system and wonder if its worth getting something with a higher output voltage to keep the Shorai full. Thier literature is saying that is around 14.6 vdc. No, this likely isnt critical, but I wanted to ask the question. Thanks.

I had the Corbin Beetle Bags on my 98 when I had it during the early 2000’s. Even back then they were expensive!