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A small update Had 3/7 of my current bikes out in the sun Sunday morning 2 of them got a ride in the afternoon even it became cloudy, did rain a bit actually. So the SevenFifty is tested again and even mix scruves are more out didn't dramatically differ even slightly better. Next is to get the baffles from the second hand silencers I bought into the onec on the bike if possible or if not cut the current off and weld back the one I bought, if that doesn't help then I think I need to separate the carbs from each other and was them in the ultrasonic cleaner really good... The Transalp was as fun to ride as the 10 year older edition I had. Some choices to be made, if I change the new front tire under or get something more dirt worthy 🤔 I noticed that the rear brake caliper bolts was a tad corroded as I bought it, the upper looked familiar to the one on a old cr125 rear caliper I have in a parts box, and to my surprise it's same bolt used by parts number, so I have a good one around 😊 The scottoiler tube to rear wheel is not so we'll mounted, well it's mounted whit just street ride in mind, so need to sort that The current screen whit additional part is not a thing I actually like that much I actually got the OEM along But need fairing off to change it, as the mounts are not orginal and you can't access them whit fairing on..... So a thing for next winter as fairings needs to be taken off to be painted anyway... I have some ideas for colorshcames for it Upper is 50 Anniversary color, same as the 87 actually, could be nice in white instead of silver as 87 also came whit. Lower is 89/90 color choice 🤔

Update. Too lazy to find the former thread here, but Cycle World says Honda has filed for trademarks/patents etc. in the U.S. for the V3 electrically boosted engine. The writer mentions the 8th gen a few times, and that this might be the sport tourer VFR replacement. Anyway, here's the link to the article: https://www.cycleworld.com/motorcycle-news/honda-trademarks-v3r/ Could be fun.

I have been trying to figure that out. Color abbreviation? What is the official name of the red?

Hi hinsy, welcome to VFRD. CR? Please post a photo or two.

R8 oh...

That's because it is. Discussed by the owner in another thread I think.

I'm curious about the road tax disc fitted, it's looks identical to an old UK disc that we were forced to display over here for decades up until 2014, now not required.

Hello all, Following a gap in bikes for a few years I have recently bought a 2015 CR. I am looking forward to absorbing as much of the combined knowledge in the forum and of course getting back in the saddle 😁. Cheers Hinsy

For information: other members on this forum have suggested to replace the R/R with either Shindengen FH020AA or SH847AA (Suzuki part number 32800-31J00-000). I took this advice (the Suzuki, to circumvent buying a fake one) and bought a connector / cable kit at Eastern Beaver. To be able to switch back to the original R/R, I crimped on / applied Metri-Pack 280 connectors. As above photo depicts, I first took the advice from Eastern Beaver to directly connect the R/R to the battery, which got me in trouble since slowly overheating and blowing the added 30A fuse and a damaged fuse holder. I had a back-and-forth discussion with the owner of Eastern Beaver on the root cause and I am convinced their advice on connecting the R/R directly to the battery led to the issue in my situation. In short: I have a modification that allows running safety lights and this drained the battery since running a low RPM when passing the traffic jam. When I cleared the traffic jam, both battery charging and powering the rest of the bike go through the added 30A fuse. In the original electrical layout, powering the rest of the bike does not pass the main 30A fuse (in case of a running engine). Original situation: Situation with Eastern Beaver cable kit applied (similar to your situation now?): I returned to the original electrical layout and haven't had any issues since. You also seem to directly connect the R/R to the battery and although the fuse overheating/blowing issue might be specific to me due to the additional load from the hazard light modification, I would advice to stick to the original electrical layout.

There is a lot of great riding between north Georgia and Franklin, NC. The BRP is not a great ride unless you enjoy keeping it under 50mph and dealing with sight seeing traffic. It's also federal so a ticket is expensive. If you do the Dragon, do it mid week and as early as you can get there to avoid the parades. If you are there just before dusk, be aware that its the locals favorite time to run hard. Watch your mirrors. Around Franklin you should look for Ellijay Road, NC281, NC215, Charlie's Creek. From Franklin to the Dragon, you take Hwy28 which is awesome riding. You can loop over to Wayah Road back to Franklin for a change of scenery. You can easily ride out of Franklin and back for four days without covering much of the same roads. And WAR EAGLE! from the an '82 grad.

I no longer own a VFR, but when I did I used a K&N filter for the last 8-10 years of my ownership of it.

Reviving an old post. does anyone have any idea if these would fit the fifth gen? https://www.amazon.ie/gp/product/B0BX3WSLY7/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A37QSFXISPSOHL&psc=1

Piper cross

K&N Sprint BMC Butt dyno can't tell any difference, defo runs better than any💩 paper throw away filter imho.👍

In few words you summarized these tires perfectly 👍 Much better than I did with my POEM 😅 I Just add one observation I forgot to mention. Unlike the Dunlop Sportsmart (in my mind, my benchmark for comparison), Mitas seem much more sensitive to inflating pressure. For, "solo" use, I found the perfect fit at 2.1bar front and 2.3 rear, significantly less than my usual set (2.4front - 2.6/2.7 rear)

K&N Because its name sounds EPIC 😎 😁

Steel mesh screen, rusty and degraded from mouse piss, barely holding back stained Kleenex, insulation and kibble, with a top, mid-range friendly, layer of baby mouse carcasses. No air box lid for peak horse power.