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VFR is work commuter today. 🤗

Forgot to ask, did you use a paint with pearl added? I used pearl paint on my yellow '99's wheels, and the 8-spoke of course. Besides, my '09 Vtec's bodywork has pearl so it suits the bike.

Did you fix your issue? I suspect the problem is air in the system. I changed my 8 gen lines for braided; didn't have any issues with the abs unit but bleeding took a while. As well as the left caliper issue I suggested, it worth looking at the lines up around the headstock area as I recall there being a high point near a flare connector that I needed to manipulate to allow air to rise up to the master. The final trick is to put the bike on the side stand, rotate the handlebars to the left to get the master level and then zip tie the brake lever hard on and leave overnight. That always seems to get the final bit of air to rise up and out.

Interesting, I replaced all my brake lines with Hel SS brake lines, I don't recall needing to do an ABS bleed? What reason would you need to do this step?

I agree with Terry, sounds like the chain bouncing on decel.

Why Thank You! Been a member since 2015. Finally found a use for all my old toothbrushes. 😁

I will check the chain tension and plastic guide tomorrow; I was changing the shock damper setting yesterday and the chain didn't seem super lose when I moved it slightly out of the way, but will tension it to max suggested spec (1" freeplay) and see if that solves it.

It looks like your not the first to have damaged your frame vs. rear subframe: Source is here on VFRWorld.

It sounded like a scrape to me, not a slosh. My opinion is that it has to be something within the motor or driveline as it responds exactly to the throttle on or off. Maybe as simple as the chain being pulled tight on the top run by acceleration, then slacking off and dragging over the rubber bumper along the top of the swingarm, so I would be starting there. I guess it could be the camchain tensioners but I thought they're more likely to cause a big rattle rather than a scrape.

Hi - I'm wondering if any of you have any ideas what this noise could be on my 2014 VFR800F from the attached video (got up to 10mph and pulled off the throttle, then pulled the clutch)... additional information below: It sounds a little like sloshing but is relatively loud It happens on deceleration (the second I let off the throttle, this noise comes up - and when I'm on the throttle, it goes away). When I get faster and decelerate, the noise gets louder and more aggressive as well. On start-up and idle there is no noise. It sounds like it's coming from the front of the bike (gas tank? radiator? front wheel?) I recently changed the braked pads / cleaned the calipers; when I had the bike lifted, and spun the wheel, there were no noises. Even with the brakes re-installed, very minimal noise - just normal pad contact When the brakes were off, I also checked the wheel for side-to-side play and there wasn't any - so don't think it's a wheel bearing issue The noise happens even when the clutch is pulled (the end of the clip is me pulling the clutch) - but I couldn't recreate while the bike was turned off (even trying to build some speed) Really curious if you have any ideas... would like to resolve this. Thank you! IMG_7513.mov

Hi - I'm wondering if any of you have any ideas what this noise could be on my 2014 VFR800F from the attached video (got up to 10mph and pulled off the throttle, then pulled the clutch)... additional information below: It sounds a little like sloshing but is relatively loud It happens on deceleration (the second I let off the throttle, this noise comes up - and when I'm on the throttle, it goes away). When I get faster and decelerate, the noise gets louder and more aggressive as well. On start-up and idle there is no noise. It sounds like it's coming from the front of the bike (gas tank? radiator? front wheel?) I recently changed the braked pads / cleaned the calipers; when I had the bike lifted, and spun the wheel, there were no noises. Even with the brakes re-installed, very minimal noise - just normal pad contact When the brakes were off, I also checked the wheel for side-to-side play and there wasn't any - so don't think it's a wheel bearing issue The noise happens even when the clutch is pulled (the end of the clip is me pulling the clutch) - but I couldn't recreate while the bike was turned off (even trying to build some speed) Really curious if you have any ideas... would like to resolve this. Thank you! IMG_7513.mov

Wow, went out to my bike and had a look. That is in a less than ideal place. The shock is mountedleft of the weld to a plate that depends on those two mounting bolts. Obviously that is a cast aluminum part. Cast aluminum tends to be porous and difficult to weld. I would certainly check with the shop you intend to take it to to inform them what you need to do, many welders will not touch cast aluminum. That said, it can be done, as Honda welds that cast piece to an extruded aluminum spar. To the left of the weld is extruded, fairly easy to weld, the right is cast, not so easy. I certainly hope they are able to repair it. Great work getting this far!

Any pictures of your Hel(of a braking system)?

I was able to fix this issue without any ABS Modulator bleed antics. It turns out the front right rotor on my VFR had a slight wobble/buckle aka runout. This meant that repeated bleeds could never fix the issue. I replaced the front rotors with OEM Honda. Costly but necessary. Now the bikes brakes feel fantastic.

I assume you are referring to the vacuum lines that attach to the bottom part of the air box. The connection to the air box is only to 'put a plug' in the vacuum line. Looking at the complexity of the DCBS, I doubt someone will be able to guarantee that. It can certainly help in addition to the prescribed procedure. About your crack... I am surprised to see it. I hope the welding shop sees possibilities to repair this.

Well no ride on Saturday even it fired up great, it peed fuel, but again letting it sit over night made wonder and today Sunday no fuel leak. Today's fuel are not good for these old bikes. So ready for a ride! So first ride was not that long, it's just +12°C and roads are at places not completely clean of gravel that is used under winter to get grip on snow as ice the roads are covered off during winter months. But my local favorite cafe was open So a stop there. And a few stops for pictures So even not perfect conditions on road it was fun! It runs like a champ but still has a knocking sound I don't like, it might come from front head, have to look into it. Also the front brake didn't feel as powerful as should, have to look into that to.

Nice to hear you had a positive experience! I found the earlier posts here.

I used one, works like new. Seller gave a few prototypes away here on VFRD before going to market.

I understand your qualms with VTEC, but otherwise comparing the 800 with your B-King isn't really fair. There's an entire entry-level middleweight motorcycle of displacement between them. A VFR1200 would be more in the B-King's wheelhouse for cross-shopping competition. Imagine me owning a Pacific Coast and SuperDuke 1390 and comparing them (both V-Twins). "I like the storage of the PC, but prefer the effortless torque of the Duke. If I sold the Duke for a PC I would have regretted it." 😅

Welcome to the club!

The only issues I had with the set of cooling hoses was when it came to the reservoir over flow hose. Was not quite long enough or thin enough to route where the old one was, but really that is no big deal. It is still a really good set of hoses. When I said extra I meant the one from the pair system, its big easy to figure out. There are a bunch of small ones and I forgot to take pictures before pulling them apart. I'm planning refering back to the factory service manual. For the ones I'm unsure of. When I flush the brakes on my older bike I used a syringe and ran the fluid backwards in through the zerk fitting and up to the fluid reservoir. No air in the system seeing I pushed them up and out. Will that not work on this bike? Yes, I like mods that provide function, reliable, and they are useful. I plan to be on the bike alot and I like to make it my own. Delinking the brakes I'm unsure of yet. I can see it useful for my dirt road that has a downhill before getting to my house. I normally use my back brake for slowing the bike down. I have included the pictures of the broken frame where the seat support on the left side is JB welded. I'm planning to get it fixed next week. When I get it to the shop I'm hoping to get pictures of the damage under the JB weld. Once I get them I will share. I am hoping the wax unit will not need any adjustment now that I have the mouse condo out. I did notice the adjustment screw is not in far enough to touch anything. Should I be concerned with that? As always thx for the help

I’ve never owned a Ninja 1000 but I did buy a left over Suzuki BKing in 2011. I still have my ‘07 Vfr but over the years I’ve found the Suzuki to be more reliable, much smoother and when ridden sanely gets as good and sometimes better mileage than my Vfr. I must admit I enjoy the I4 more than the V4. I enjoy the smooth low end torque over the jerky jerky V4 and it’s quaint but kinda useless v tech. The vfr left me stranded when the wiring harness around the battery became just a bit to crispy and let go. Also had the ground issue which nearly left me stranded. Honda really needed a better ECU, charging system and a more robust wiring harness before unleashing the thing to the public. The Suzuki has had no weirdness and for me is the more enjoyable of the two. If I sold the Bking for a vfr I would have regretted it.

Would my reading be correct i would mostly be riding twisting and winding A & B roads so leaving it on a 170 tire would be more enjoyable to throw around than fitting the 180 tire

Ditto. No issues with welding, all manufacturers weld their frames. Its where that matters. Nice work also!