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Hmm could be. I think after work I'll try grabbing my og lock cylinder and swap the tumblers to see if that works. Hopefully I can Frankenstein one usable ignition out of the two OEM ones with the least worn parts.

Today pulled the cover off my VFR and gave it a bath. Even under a carport and with a bike cover the dust finds a way to get everywhere. Then I cleaned the chain, aired up the tires, installed the battery, and changed the oil & filter. Next job will be replacing the cam chain tensioners, a task I've put off far too long. For a variety of reasons it's been almost 3 years since I last rode it. Since 1991 I'd never skipped a year until 2023. Not the most exciting story, but it's an excuse to show this pic.

Anyone have experience running the following kit? Honda Blackbird CBR1100XX 97-07 Footpeg Lowering Kit - Rider - Jaws Motorcycles I'm looking to install these on my 2010 VFR1200 DCT. Any info would be appreciated!

Thank you Presson, as soon as I put in the new battery (I'm trying for Wednesday) I'll let you know more details! In addition to what you mentioned, I wonder whether the Power Commander has failed (can it brick?) or if the side-stand switch would be a culprit (I don't suppose so if the starter motor engages the engine) or if the wiring harness is the cause (I have not done any factory recalls yet). Which reminds me, is there just the one factory recall (wiring harness) for my 2004 VFR or are there other recalls, and are they still being offered by the dealers? Also, if I load a new map into the Power Commander (I might as well since I'll be checking things) what's the best one for a stock 2004 VFR to provide the least intrusive and smoothest transition from two valve to four valve operation, and it is available here?

Got up and changed the air filter, then went on another long ride. This time to Borrego Springs(Bad idea. Too hot.) Then up to Julian to meet the wife for lunch. Took a massive bug to the inner visor when my main visor was up and actually tasted whatever part of it went in my mouth. A friend of mine snapped a pic of me when I was waiting on the side of the road for emergency crews to take care of a downed rider(I don't know his status, but I hope he's going to be OK). All in all, a good ride and much needed stress relief from the work week. Probably need another one next weekend.

The bushing that MD quoted is for the clutch pushrod; the brake does not have that part.

Thanks for the reply. The part number you are referring to is a bushing. Which is the part with the arrows on it in my picture. I do not need that. I you look at the photo, above the bushing is a dial for adjustment, then an aluminum part with a hole where the socket screw would be. That is the part I need, ideally with the socket screw also as they are kinda special in a design way. The screenshot is from the fiche at cmsnl for the 2001 vfr800. The lever is shown as assembly #15 with no breakdown of the adjustment parts, so I really can't reference a part number for that bit. Its interesting you found a part number for that bushing, but it foes not show on CMNL or Revzilla. If you found a breakdown of the lever parts, please post. Thanks again.

Hello everyone this is my first post here. I recently got the contact for a wheel manufacter and he told me he can make me a 17x6 4x100 wheel for my bike and I also can chose the offset. I will be installing it on a Vfr 750 Gen 4 Swingarm atached to a Vf750c the swingarm fits the frame of the bike like a glove in size is just some bolt thread size difference. So the golden question what offset would I need for it to be centered to the bike? I am thinking of doing a 6 inch for a 190 tire or a 6.25 for a 200 tire. The reason I am asking here is because perhaps you guys can help me find the offset and some other user that wants to do the same on his Vfr can replicate it with this info because the swingarms fits the same into this bike as a Vfr 750. I didn't find any info on a 6 inch rims just people puting 7.0 rims in other bikes with frame modifications. I also saw a guy trying to fit a 6.5 and there were clereance and centering issues issues with the swingarm thats why I chose a 6.0 or 6.25 if possible. I heard the that the guy that used a 6.5 inch rim talking that if he chosed a 6 inch rim it would have fitted without clereance issues and I would have been centered to the bike without problem. So I was thinking of using the stock vfr gen 3-4 rear rim offset and modifying it a little bit to fit and center a 6 inch custom wheel.

Is this the part? Maybe the correct part number is P/N is 22885-MB0-006 The Suzuki part number 59892-08A00 is $3 and exactly the same part. (mbe) https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/22885-MB0-006

Got hit by an attack of the while I'm at its...even more teardown. (dammit) Anyhoo, front calipers are apart and I scraped of the paint on one in the area that was ground off for a fit on the forks. Its really not much... Enjoy... Cheerz

Do not need the whole lever. Just the adjuster part of it. To be clear, just the socket head screw and the aluminum body it goes into. Do not need the wheel part of it. See photo of my front brake assbly for reference to what I'm looking for, there is an obvious hole where the socket head screws should be.😁 So if you have a broken front brake lever kicking around, that would probably work. Thanks

Been a busy Spring riding. Left May 14 for NC, TN, VA to ride with some guys and returned via the Adirondacka in NY, about 2700 miles, 4 days later headed out with a couple of buddies for Northern Maine, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. Around 30 miles east of Halifax on rt 7 the front brakes suddenly felt a bit soft on the initial press of the lever then were OK. Symptoms of air in the lines, which was disappointing as I had bled them last fall and had 6k of trouble free braking since them. I must say at this time the road was in horrendous shape in places, washboard to the point you could not do the speed limit. Found out at a gas stop in Sheet Harbor, my tool bag, which had lived happily for the last 6k on the rear of the bike, was gone. Anyway, for the next 4 days and 1k as we did the Cabot Trail and a few other roads I just kept it in the back of my mind the brakes had a bit of delay before biting. For the record, some parts of the Cabot Trail were almost unrideable they were so bad. What a shame. Got back to Maine just as it poured again so did not address the bike for a few days., when I did, I gathered my tools, fluid, hoses, containers then went to remove the MC lid to start. That's when I saw the missing fastening. Well Holy Cow, that's a first. I could not conceive how that went missing. I had never removed it, it was flush at the beginning of the riding season, but, there it is, missing. I scavenged a replacement from my 4th Gen as I'm not riding it for a while, and soon discovered why it had exited the bike. The threads on the adjuster portion of the lever were stripped. Thinking about it, it was obvious it came out somewhere on one of the really bumpy stretches of rt 7. What's even more perplexing is that a some point of its 11k of life before I owned it someone had really yarned on it to the point it stripped. Why is anyone's guess. For me, just another reminder I am not the smartest guy in the garage when it comes to diagnosis, there are times when jumping to an instant conclusion is not in my best interest.🙂 Off to classifieds to see if someone had a broken lever with the adjuster intact. BTW, Honda does not show individual lever parts, just the whole assembly.

Out whit a friend today hunting twisty road's .... tarmac 99% today.., Only 3 stops, fuel, cafe as a other cafe, can't complain the weather to, excellent

Hello, my second season on my beloved VFR 750 RC36-1 from 1990. My second season on wheels at all.. My Viffer have developed a disturbing squeak / squeal? I can hear the cam gear alongside. And I don’t think they are connected. The sound is hard. And “planted” through my body.. like it’s coming inside my neck or head. Opening the visor I can hear it from the bike. Oil level is at max, looks good. and changed in february. I jump around the rpm to provoke. Don’t take the driving seriously. 😂 Chain and sprockets changed 1000km ago, ish. But I doubt that’s the issue since the sound is still present when parked. The sound Can disappear after waiting for a red light. And then appear again after 10 secs. ONLY around 4K rpm. No other symptoms. No oil light. Only rpm has an effect. Clutch lever has no effect My thoughts were vacuum leak at the carbs??? I changed the rubber boots below the carbs, they were like rocks, and the sound went away, for about 2-300 KM, and is now creeping back. I haven't tried re-tightening them yet, and i will try that, but i doubt that's the solution, they can't just go loose? When i start the bike, No weird sounds. when i go for a drive, it drives perfectly especially after the boots were changed. After about 10-15km i can provoke the sound again, heat related? but still drives perfectly, no power loss or "unevenness" easiest way to provoke is to engine brake for a long time, and getting slightly on the gas again. The videos are BEFORE the 4 carp rubber boots were changed. (the boots between intake and carbs.) Now the sound isn't as loud, or consistent, but still creeping worse and worse. Another thing to note in the troubleshooting, the Front right cylinder have not been firing correct the last couple of years, when i got it i thought it ran a little uneven, and rough. Still on all 4 cylinders, but it turned out the spark plug cap was dead, had a loose internal connection, and it was changed a couple thousand km ago. Ran WAY smoother and have more power after 4 new plug caps. Watch the attached IMG_1994.MP4 for the most provoked example. The 1993.MP4 it is still there, but less consistent. IMG_1994.MP4 IMG_1993.MP4

Does the fuel pump prime when you turn the key to start? Ignition spark at the plugs? Fuel pressure regulator? Blocked injectors? Those are the things I would check Sorry, grasping at straws here. I'm sure others with more experience will chip in.

I had a similar issue, but on the other side of the turn: all of a sudden, in the middle of a clubride after a coffeebreak I couldn’t turn it far enough to the right so couldn’t start anymore. That was the only time she left me stranded. Long story short: took the thing apart and there was one lockpin that wouldn’t move enough due to grease/dirt blocking it. So took out all the lockingpins and cleaned everything thoroughly, lubed it with graphite and problem was solved. But since you’ve tried this also that’s not the issue. Could it be there’s some kind of aligning-issue/misfit of the barrel causing it? Goodluck figuring this out and let us know!

Good morning all, I've been fighting with this replacement lockset for a few days now. My original lock someone tried to break it or something so I replaced it with a cheap one. Recently I've been trying to go over everything and get it all cleaned up and 'nice' for lack of a better term. Bought a replacement OEM (used) lockset and everything works fine except the key won't engage the lock pin. I've pulled it all apart and I'm not seeing anything binding it, I've Frankensteined it with 2 other lowers to test if that was it, I've swapped the pin and the plastic holder thing that attaches to the pin and moves when you turn the key (the one from my original ignition was less worn out than the replacement one) I've used a graphite lube thinking that maybe it was just a stuck tumbler or something. I'm baffled, by all means everything I saw during my surgery of this thing is that there shouldn't be anything binding it up but it still won't turn to lock. Normal operation works totally fine. Off/on/flashers no problem at all. Anyone have any idea?

Hi Danno, Thank you for your donation of 5.00 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

Hi everyone, I have a 2004 VFR800 ABS with very low kilometers in great condition. It has not been ridden for a few years, and has a full tank of fuel with fuel stabilizer. It has a Power Commander and O2 eliminators, but everything else is 100% stock, no PAIR valve mods etc. It has not had the wiring harness recall, or any other recalls etc. I'm going to install a brand new battery in the next few days. Last year when I tried to start it, the motor would turn over, but would not run unless I put a few drops of fuel into the intake, and then only for a short bit. This year who knows, but I’ll report back and thanks so much in advance for any advice you have!

Sorry I wish to ask about the vfr750 1995/6. is there a dedicated relay for the cooling system! I have not asked a question before so If I have interrupted a thread v sorry

View File Official Power Commander 2 Software and Maps - From Dynojet Hi everyone, New here but I thought I should contribute ! Upon request, Dynojet have provided me with the PC2 software, user manual and maps for the VFR. Thought might be useful to some others as well 😁 ! Here's the reply from Dynojet: "While this software is no longer supported by Dynojet, you can still download it here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Wb8mQeHeao6_k4xkl6ZswDXyVGhYyWKD/view?usp=sharing It has not been tested with Windows 10, and requires a serial port connection to communicate with those older Power Commander 2/3/3r serial units. The USB to serial adapters, which are common in the marketplace, are also problematic. A true RS-232 serial port is recommended. Also make sure that your serial port is assigned in the port range of 1-8 as our software will not address ports using a higher number than 8. We also attached the Software User Guide to this email for your convenience. You need to have a map open in the software that matches the unit you have, before the software will communicate. I have attached all the map files on a zip file, M101-all.zip for this bike to this email. Please extract the zip file to use the MAP files. Save the maps to your computer, open it in the software, then you should be able to communicate with the unit. The User Guide will have the procedure to send the map. It uses this map to determine what the bike is, and therefore what the data type is coming in." I have successfully tested this on my 5th gen with a CHIPI-X10 RS232-TO-USB converter. Happy tuning ! Submitter ShinyPants101 Submitted 06/06/2025 Category Power Commander Maps  

Man... you need to use the search bar. How many miles? How does it look? How hard has it been ridden? last time the oil was changed?...... 'Do these bikes have the TOS?' I DUNNO Again, i'm a carb'd street & track rider, so take my advice with a grain of salt... check these things... PLEASE -Sidestand switch- -clutch lever switch- -ignition switch- ^No power loss all the time, just random? ^No dead battery? ^no dimming so it's not the stator or reg/rect... ^smooth or bumpy roads? ^

Just to go over the technique to get it onto the centrestand - once the stand hits the ground you need to simultaneously push down on the centrestand tang and pull up on the little grab handle at the pillion peg. About equal pressure on both, and it comes up and back nicely.

Canadianvfr750 Posted 3 minutes ago So I'm building up this bike I just got when I try to hook up the battery to attempt to start it only will light up the instrument panel when I push the start button.it will turn over if I jump the relay...but if I try to have this small black relay that's the size of a Lego cube..(two circle on top)... That's the best description I have cause I don't know what it's called or does. If it's plugged in then I blow the starter fuse .....any idea what's the problem? Bike has 20,000km and looks fairly unmolested...any help here would be fantastic.thanks