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Well it's a great idea, I like it. As far as strength goes for steel shelving just remember how small the centre stands are on your bikes, it can support the full weight of the bike with a rider to boot. So it doesn't take much steel to take the weight. And diagonal braces will redirect the load into the wall affixed verticals, so no need of front support legs. Re the lifter legs, each bike should have one lift position, so you only need leg space equidistant from the balance point of each pallet/sled, so place your tools to suit!

What suburb are you in? I'm not a gynecologist but I'll take a look ;D

Welcome. Sargent seat is the ticket. monitor the forums. How does the tank look inside? Last brake/clutch fluid flush date/miles from now?

Congrats on your 5th gen. and welcome from steamy northern Ohio! 😆 I hope you'll post a couple photos of your VFR here. Seeing pix of these fantastic machines never gets old!

Hey y’all, I recently picked up a 2005 VFR800 with 40k miles. It has some wiring issues and I don’t have the time to sort it out myself. Anyone know of any good techs in Houston we can trust? Quick notes: I just ordered the front wiring harness recall from Honda and they will replace it for free in a few weeks. I’m assuming I’m still going to have issues after that so I’d like to line someone up now, if possible. My dealer already said due to the age all they can do is the recall, nothing else. Previous owner recently installed the VFRness, new R/R and Stator. Thanks in advance!

Welcome from Houston! Post pics or it didn’t happen! Lol

How did that WIX fuel filter hold up?

Welcome dude! Post up some photos !

You were going to make a motorcycle pallet anyway; just make it so that it bridges the beams with some leeway. According to a local supplier, 3.2m span and 140mm deep beams has a load rating of 2746kg. That's plenty. But can you fit two bikes end-to-end in that bay? My gut feel is that you need more like 2m of shelf length. Maybe three x 2m bays would be best.

Lucked into a crazy deal on a one-owner 1998/5th Gen yesterday and want to keep up with tech stuff. The gent (77) bought it new in 99 and has cared for it beyond what most people would, tons of documented preventive maintenance over the years and only 1k miles added to the clock since Covid. New to VFRs but not bikes in general, I've owned many brands since 2006 (drank the HD koolaid up until then). I can already tell that the factory seat and I will not play nicely together, otherwise I'm digging it!

Milky oil is a greater danger to your engine than to your clutch... Milky oil significantly reduces the lubricating properties of the engine oil, leading to increased friction and wear and tear on engine components. This can lead to: Engine overheating: Without proper lubrication and cooling, the engine can overheat. Corrosion: Moisture in the oil can lead to rust and corrosion of engine parts. Clogged passageways: The thickened, contaminated oil can clog lubrication pathways, preventing proper oil circulation. Potential Engine Failure: Ignoring milky oil can result in serious engine damage and even complete engine failure. More likely the cause of Condensation is short trips or riding in cold, when the coolant operates below 180ºF... also humid weather can cause condensation to build up inside the engine, which can then mix with the oil.

View File Gen 8 VFR PC6 Full Lextek 300mm can Gen 8 with 9k miles, fresh oil, fresh stock air filter, new Lextek full system with 300mm silencer. No airbox or other intake mods. Tech nailed the air to fuel ratio. Submitter OklaTwister Submitted 07/06/2025 Category Power Commander Maps  

The SevenFifty exhaust is off as the opened silencers cut off I must say the exhaust is more corroded than you could see as it's mounted, so it needs a bit more care than planned. Next I did smooth the old weld's of headers as oncoming silencers. Next to mount back as wait for my friend to have time and come and weld the healthy silencers on.

If they’re rated for 1000kg as pallet shelves then you need to remove the point loads from the tyres, as the design is for a UDL

No Edmontonians to work on VFRs? Well, I guess you’ll have to rely on the collective knowledge of the forum - lots of hints and tips for working on your bike. I sold mine almost ten years ago but still think of that bike (2005) as one of my faves. Footnote - I didn’t realize this was from 2022. It’s been a while. Did you find a local?

Is your reg/rec flat on top of the fins, or curved? The original OEM ones were flat--as in pancake, like your battery will be if you rely on one! But, Honda upgraded its reg/recs at some point to the curved, or rounded fin version. I don't think they are MOSFET, but they may be less prone to failure than the original OEM reg/recs. Maybe you don't have a reason to panic! (FYI, I believe the SH847 Series-type reg/rec was OEM on Suzuki DL1000 Stroms). Ciao, JZH

Hi Lars, yes the Euro-spec bikes from that era had headlight on-off switches and 'passing' switches, whereas the US-spec bikes did not. I have fitted Euro-spec switch pods to US-spec bikes in the past, however, so they are not that different--but you do need to be looking at the right wiring diagram (which you are)! Thanks for the great write-up of your repair, and for high-quality photo of the wiring diagram, too. I'm sure that will be useful to someone in the future. Ciao, JZH

'No' is not really what I wanted to hear, but reading on it sounds more like a 'maybe' to me! One option I have considered (but hoped to avoid) was to convert the cantilevered shelves into a 4-post rack. Unistrut is also available in deeper channels (61mm and 81mm), but that gets expensive real quick. 'Back-to-back' 41mm channels are also available. But using any of them for the verticals forces the workbenches away from the wall--and I don't know if just using those struts would solve the 'moment' issue in any case. A 4-post rack may be the least-worst solution. I'd still have to work out the number of posts-per-bike, but that should be a fairly straightforward load (4x) calculation--and that could still allow me to position large equipment underneath (such as a lathe) if it were located "between bikes", so to speak. * * * Okay, so I've now looked at commercial pallet racks and I think that may actually be the way to go. They are available here in a number of configurations, but most critically in 800mm deep versions with spans up to 3.6m! I have 7m of wall, so I could fit a six-post pallet rack with two 3.3m spans, each of which is designed to support 1,100kg. A fully laden VFR800 (the largest bike I would be racking) weighs less than 300kg, so I could store three of them with no issue--and only have one vertical post "in the way" down below. Something like this, but with the horizontal carriers moved all the way to the top. (I've read that the loading and stability of "one-level" pallet racks are much reduced, so I'd have to brace it to the walls, at least.) I'd also have to think about the shelf covering (if any)... Thanks for your insight--critical comments are in many ways more valuable than encouraging ones! Ciao, JZH

Let's hope it stays a "fun" project! Floor smoothness requirement noted--thanks. Ciao, JZH

It shouldn't take too much time to take a bike "off the shelf", but I don't know if I will ever have the luxury of choice like that. I was thinking more about being able to take one down, prep and maybe do some work on it--as well as ride it for a while--before moving on to another one. Ciao, JZH

I've been thinking about the same thing: running horizontal struts side to side along the house's wooden beams in addition to anchoring the verticals into them at the top. That's a 4.3m span... But, it also could be a great way to suspend lighting, air lines, etc. (I'm not sure what kind of floors I have at this point. There's actually wood flooring in there now. Not sure what's under it--more wood? That's not a great for a garage!) Given my space limitations and bike collection, I kinda have to do this, but how it will be done remains an open question. I will definitely photograph my progress/downfall as I go! Cheers, JZH

Ok, you just changed the oil, right? Now do a full bleed on the clutch hydraulic circuit and pull out the clutch cylinder push rod and give it a good polish. See if that improves things and go from there.

so i have a 1999 vfr 800 my bike is winerized for 8 months and i dont ride it much , but i love my bike and love when im on it . any way my clutch plates are sticking . i think from lack of use . but it just changed the oil and it is a little milky . I think it is from condensation on my cement floor an i havent changed the oil it two years since i dont put miles on it. Will condensation or milky oil cause the plates to stick , and a second question if i dont ride it much and it is in storage how can i prevent the plates from sticking ? any advice is welcome .