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That is awesome work, always nice to be able to trade labor like that.

You've got 2 bikes, i'd suggest something you can use on both. Heated gloves are a game changer for me when it gets cold, and well under budget. Nice tank bag maybe? Or just pony up for some maint items, like fluids, tools, etc. Garage upgrades are HUGE, putting in a ton of LED 4' long shop lights is the number one mod i've done recently. I spent ~$120 on a bunch straight out of china, and I can work all hours on projects without eye fatigue or silly mistakes because i can't quite see what i'm doing. I have a 2 car garage with split doors, ran 8 of these. 2 along the side wall, 2 in the middle, 2 along the other side wall, and 2 in the side without garage doors. https://www.amazon.com/Hykolity-Linkable-Workshop-Workbench-Equivalent/dp/B07TM97LWY/ref=sr_1_9?crid=1AOLTJWLMKIXJ&dchild=1&keywords=4'+led+shop+lights&qid=1587653922&sprefix=4'+led+shop%2Caps%2C179&sr=8-9

Seriously awesome, love the progress on that blog so far.

Here is a decent list of parts available from HRC, pics as well if you sign up for a free account. https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-vfr750rk-hrc-racing-kit-usa_model35114/partslist/ Would love a clean red/white/blue tank if you have one...

I'm having a hard time understanding what was done here, but good job, i hate those springs. I put mine up on the center(or side) stand so the spring is full extension, jam a bunch of pennies in the spring between the coils, and then when you push the stand in a bit the spring won't retract all the way and is easily removed. You can then reinstall it at about that same point as well.

I had a vision daydreaming, it looks like it may be the speedo cable stabilizer to me. #5 in this pic that bolts to the brake caliper. Bah no not quite. It's close though 😄

Standard heat gun on the boots and wrestle with the carbs for about an hour trick seemed to work. New boots on the way, but trying soaking these in silicon spray as a i read somewhere else that mayyyy soften them up? Just for giggles really, or if that order gets lost in transit and never shows up. http://v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13477 Found some sort of bracket in the valley, not sure where it goes though. These things are filthy as all get out, and last person inside em used a ton of gasket sealant which could have caused blockages. Definitely badly in need of a cleaning. This is my goto: The throttle bodies aren't even close to setup the same everywhere, nothing a good bench sync won't fix to get me in the ballpark, and then my standard aquarium tubing sync tool while running should do the fine tuning. http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp http://www.400greybike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=40719 From what I can tell, these are the proper jets/tubes and everything for this year model, so nice to know that it hasn't been completely messed with. Someone did install a can though, would be nice if i could get some solid info on if any standard carb adjustments could be made here, but honestly I'd rather just source a stock/quieter can 😛http://www.400greybike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22317 I did find that float height is 6.8mm, so that's something http://www.400greybike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=21480 I think I know enough to be dangerous here, time to knock these things out. Float bowl o-rings come in sometime next week hopefully, i think i can get it all done by then. I also have some electric work to attend to, and some valves that need adjusting...

I picked up another project just in time, and it seems like many of the same parts from my 86 VFR 700 rebuild are compatible if not very similar to what is on this 86 VFR400R. The previous owner road it around while teaching in Japan, and then imported it with a bunch of other stuff a couple of years ago. Lots of function over form type of fixes on this thing, like the wrong color scheme tank, weird custom brackets with welds and stuff to keep mirrors and the shifter alive, i sort of dig the ingenuity honestly. Shortly after picking it up: The idle is about 4500 rpm's, the battery is shot, fork seals gone, and lots of cosmetic issues, but otherwise not a bad start. Story is he took it to a shop to get the carbs "tuned up" and that was botched, so he got a refund and lost interest. My plan is to pull these carbs off and rebuild em using a viton o-ring pack assortment i've got coming, or if none of those fit order a bare bones nc30 kit as the float bowl gaskets are the same supposedly. Quick test tide before taking this thing apart. Little sketchy thanks to the high idle, no rear brake, and front brakes covered in fork oil. Apologies for the vertical video, gf took that one and i had the thing inoperative before i could get a do over on it 😛 Never seen this before, some sort of foam jammed in to these bolts, my assumption is to stave off rust. I haven't pried it out yet because no need, just weirded me out and thought it was cool: Kickstand mod, it is actually pretty easy to kick this puppy out thanks to this contraption: Mirrors are being kept alive by Frankenstein-esque methods: As she sits now: I actually did the last bit of work while on a zoom call for work. It was a non-mandatory happy hour video chat, so what better way to enjoy than in my own garage. I wheeled the laptop out on a standing desk i've got, and enjoyed their company while yanking this old thing apart. I just got this thing a day before the stay at home order in my town, and have already ordered a ton of parts that are rolling in about now. Using many of the same ones i've used before as i know what I can trust. NGK's, Motobatt AGM battery, mosfet reg/rec to get wired straight to the battery bypassing that damn red connector, clean and dielectric grease every ding dang connector, OEM fork seals, wheel bearings just so i can take that stuff apart and call it good, and the rest i'll order as needed because it seems good. Still on the hunt for either a muffler silencer for this weird JDM can or a stock one cause this thing is LOUD, as well as a front brake lever and windshield. I tried signing up over at 400greybike.com as searching that site has been hugely beneficial, but their admins are not responding and there is no contact link, so i'll keep twiddling my thumbs and install what I've got coming already. Shooting for a goer that I can start up and ride around at will, and one that isn't so pretty that I can't ride it around in any weather.

Happy to share, i guess i should also specify that I was trying to come up with a mount solution that allows my wing rack to be mounted. If i stuck it towards the rear i would have been unable to mount the racks.

Here we go, looks like i need to trim a couple of fins down juuuuuust a touch. I went on a couple hundred mile trip recently and it appears to have rubbed a bit at some point. You can see the two little white spots on fins, and little spots dug out of the side cover. The shorai battery was a little different size than stock so i used heavy duty velcro strap to keep it secure, but same reg/rec mounting method would work for stock battery, especially if you aren't using this chonker i used. I didn't want to cut into my under seat space, and didn't want to trim anything to make this huge thing fit. Instead of nuts on the back of the plate i used rivnuts/nutserts, which will change your life if you've never heard of them 😄

Yep, that's where i put it. Worked perfectly. I have the terminals facing right in that pic, was easier to strain relief the wires to go with the hinge and make sure they didn't contact anything else. For mounting i used an old piece of license plate bracket, and just nut and bolted it between the mount holes, running it so that strap sits behind that battery bar. Hasn't budged on me yet, seems pretty secure and no permanent mods needed. I can get pics when i get back home if you like, i'll have to remember though... And boy am I forgetful 😄

I am running the SH847 kit and it is HUUUUUUGE http://www.roadstercycle.com/#SH847_SERIES_RR_KITS_ARE_NOW_AVAILABLE_ I actually mounted it to the battery retaining bar, lots of space right there for it, nice airflow, minimal wiring fuss just leave a service loop so when you open the battery door it doesn't stress the leads. I used some heat resistant sleeve to cross 3 wires to the stator, soldered right to those leads(i put a beefed up stator same time) and then ran the pos/neg from the reg/rec right to the battery with the included breaker with nice short runs.

All goes back to using the shop manual and specs to ohm things out, well done. You were lucky to be able to catch it in the act, intermittent problems are often very difficult to fix and people end up throwing random parts at it until the symptoms go away.

Haha wow, that "solution" is a fire hazard waiting to happen.

Oh wow the angle of the back of those bags fits aroudn the stock blinkers quite well. What is the model of them?