atx

Never even considered that or had issues on the couple of these bikes i've done, but on the 400 i'll keep a close eye on the clamps for sure. Looks like a great list to me. Beefed up charging, good coolant plan, good carb plan, you should be ready to rock. I'd do a quick tclocks check and make sure the bike overall is set. I get so focused on a carb rebuild or whatever and want to rush to ride, but i have to remind myself that the chain etc should be checked haha

Yeah i love plastex. You have to be careful with the liquid portion because it messes with the finish of plastic it touches, but otherwise it's super easy to use. I used to mix it in a little cup and goop it on like epoxy, but i saw some vid where they put the plastic powder right on the area for repair then dripped the liquid onto it, and have had good luck doing that and doing that way a little bit at a time. It will stink up the whole house if you do it inside, so be careful haha. I've not tried plastic welding setups before, those might be the way to go for bigger jobs, but this works well for my uses. I used it all over the back of my fairings to repair and strengthen cracks, left it thick because who cares on the back, and it has held up well. https://www.webbikeworld.com/plastex-plastic-repair-kit/ This page has a decent guide on what appears to be a rebranded version of it, i didn't try it this way either but looks good. https://www.polyvance.com/repair-broken-fairing/

For years i kept mine in the closet stored safely, one in good shape, one with a broken ear, but no more! I want to enjoy life. I just recently plastexed mine back together and if they crack more i'll repair em again. Just looks so much cleaner now. If anyone has a decent fiberglass shop these could be reproduced i imagine, though yeah the prices would be nuts for such a small part... I'm with capn on the voltmeter though, with modern regrec bypassing the melty red connector going straight to it's own fuse and the battery, soldered stator leads, just ignore it. You can also mount one of the trick single LED meters if you want, i've also got one i've been meaning to install but I just haven't gotten around to it. https://gammatronixltd.com/ There's one mode where you tell it to be stealthy/off under healthy voltage so you'll only see the light when it's over/under preferred range so i won't have to shut it off to keep it from bugging you. I would really like to sneak in a tiny fuel gauge, something surface mount on top of a side panel for peace of mind. I can't seem to find any era appropriate looking ones though, or anything not huge and ugly. I found a tiny LED bar one that works on bikes with measurable hydrostatic pressure, but it won't work with our weird deep tanks that require pumps, i already asked if it would work with a float gauge(which we could get from 88/89 model and replace our low sensor) but it is not compatible. https://www.lskelectronics.com/store/FuelGaugePro-Bar-Graph-Display-Panel-Kit-p286787313 I just recently redid the carbs on my 700 and used the guide from Joe over at v4dreams and it worked a treat, such a great resource. All the tips i needed, though i did take a ton of pics of the my own from all angles just to make sure I wasn't messing anything up. http://v4dreams.com/maintenance.html I also read stuff bookmarked from magna forums that seems to work well for me: http://v4musclebike.com/articles/magnandy/Andy's Carb Cleaning Guide.pdf Setting the bench sync was easiest for me with a 1/8" wide strip of paper(found that tip on some random forum post), dragging that under the throttle plate on the nonadjustable one first and setting the idle screw, the setting the other 3 to match using the linkage adjusters. On the bike at first start the thing was super close right off the bat, barely needed any tweaking to get about perfect per the MotionPro Sync Pro tool i've got. I installed the metal fuel joints from vinscoottubes on ebay while I was at it, no more worrying about the plastic joints and old o rings. https://www.ebay.com/str/vinscoottubes

That long ass phillips head screwdriver is just what the factory manual orders for pulling the throttlebodies on 6th gens, assuming you don't have one already of course... Great find. I've had no luck on a f3/f4 for wheel/fork upgrade for my 86, but i'm also not checking offer up, maybe i should expand the search a bit.

Some bicycle lights i have gotten rid of because they have too many settings. I need high, low, bright blink, dim blink. If you haven't tried a helmet light, highly recommend. This unit has a blinky built into the back as well, but still bright enough for medium speed trail riding. When you're coming up over a hill you can see and be seen much quicker as the lights are as high as possible. Also one less thing to fuss with, just take your helmet with you when you get somewhere and the lights are attached to it. https://lightandmotion.com/collections/mountain-biking/products/vis-360-pro

Honestly just looks like animals without necks to me https://www.sunnyskyz.com/blog/168/25-Animals-Without-Necks-The-Results-Are-Hilarious

Ahhh got it, yeah i'd be down for 1 set if under say 100 bucks? But really your best bet may be to reach out to the maker and get price ranges for batch sizes.

Wow those look great, one of mine is pretty well cracked so i've not wanted to install either side for fear of them just shattering. What's the pricing like on those?

I too have a full set of cobalt bodywork i need to put to use some day, he was the one i was thinking of who used to make spacers...

Is anyone making cbr spacers right now? There used to be a vendor i think that was back in the day, but nothing anymore I'm aware of. I'd be happy to buy a set to throw on the shelf for future conversion...

Honestly not sure off the top of my head, and mine is in my buddy's garage at the moment... If you need fresh ones though they aren't much: https://cbdecals.afegraphics.com/view_product.php?adminshopping=&product=86vfr750f-LabelKit-CB00433

Was the stator connected when you plugged the r/r in? Disconnected the stator, meter those out and see if you get similar resistance between all 3 wires, but more importantly make sure none of those have path to ground. Again you don't need to go for the expensive kit if you can't afford it, ebay search for FH020AA or whichever mosfet regrec you want and you'll find workable chinese versions, and you can swap those out to genuine later if the cheapie fails.

Everything ages out differently based on UV exposure, temperature, the elements, etc, all depends on how you stored this thing and the age more than the miles in my eyes. I'd buy a 50k mile garage kept bike over a carport kept bike with 10k miles any day. Pull all the plastics off, check for signs of cracking, and reinforce with plastex or your epoxy of choice. These old fairings are unobtanium, and trying to get one paint matched will never look right. If you reinforce now, they'll give you many more years of trouble free service. Look around mounting points, corners, especially on the backside. While they're off, look at the electrics. Pull connectors apart, clean, dielectric grease, put it back together. Update the reg/rec and hard solder or crimp the stator wires. Make sure the red connector on the main fuse isn't crispy looking. Check all hoses as mentioned, you may end up decided to change out brake lines if they look bad, cheap and easy.

Yep all too common. Pull the body panels and gas tank etc off, clean and check every connection. Pull every single connector apart, clean the terminals, pack with dielectric grease to keep corrosion at bay, and put back together. Your hand controls might feel crunchy and need to be taken apart and refurbished as well. Pull fuses, check, and clean those little terminals and put it back together. Pull bulbs, make sure they look good, clean the sockets, toss em back in. You're prolly going to have a melted connector with the 3 yellow wires coming off of the stator. You can get a cheaper reg/rec kit to hard wire to that(as in snip that connector and direct solder the wires together), then hook the charge wires directly to ground/the battery and skip that little main fuse. Roadstercycle has nice kits if you want USA nice stuff, or feel free to read about why he does it this way and source your own dubious kit on ebay or something http://www.roadstercycle.com/Easy Mosfet Install.htm Toss the battery on a trickle charger and get it nice and topped off, motorcycle charge systems aren't meant to charge a flat battery, that can cause extra heat in the system and end up melting things. If you spend a weekend doing all of this work you won't have to fuss with the electrical system ever again in your lifetime, short of battery swaps. The fastest/emergency way to do it is replace that connector, pull all fuses, and replace one by one until it start blowing. It could be something as silly as a light bulb hard shorted out and the fuse for that circuit being over sized. I would vote do the full check and inspect though, these bikes are antiques at this point and it being a Florida bike I assume it has lots of corrosion in those connectors, which are bad even in the rust free central Texas environment mine grew up in. Those old school spade style non sealed connectors just suck honestly.

I have similar problems with bicycle routing. The best solution i've found is doing it in google maps in a laptop web browser, get it exactly how i want nice and easy, then use this site to convert it to GPX: https://mapstogpx.com/ I can then uplaod that gpx straight to my garmin device, or put it on the cloud service for garmin or even strava.