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Some bicycle lights i have gotten rid of because they have too many settings. I need high, low, bright blink, dim blink. If you haven't tried a helmet light, highly recommend. This unit has a blinky built into the back as well, but still bright enough for medium speed trail riding. When you're coming up over a hill you can see and be seen much quicker as the lights are as high as possible. Also one less thing to fuss with, just take your helmet with you when you get somewhere and the lights are attached to it. https://lightandmotion.com/collections/mountain-biking/products/vis-360-pro

Ahhh got it, yeah i'd be down for 1 set if under say 100 bucks? But really your best bet may be to reach out to the maker and get price ranges for batch sizes.

Wow those look great, one of mine is pretty well cracked so i've not wanted to install either side for fear of them just shattering. What's the pricing like on those?

Was the stator connected when you plugged the r/r in? Disconnected the stator, meter those out and see if you get similar resistance between all 3 wires, but more importantly make sure none of those have path to ground. Again you don't need to go for the expensive kit if you can't afford it, ebay search for FH020AA or whichever mosfet regrec you want and you'll find workable chinese versions, and you can swap those out to genuine later if the cheapie fails.

Yep all too common. Pull the body panels and gas tank etc off, clean and check every connection. Pull every single connector apart, clean the terminals, pack with dielectric grease to keep corrosion at bay, and put back together. Your hand controls might feel crunchy and need to be taken apart and refurbished as well. Pull fuses, check, and clean those little terminals and put it back together. Pull bulbs, make sure they look good, clean the sockets, toss em back in. You're prolly going to have a melted connector with the 3 yellow wires coming off of the stator. You can get a cheaper reg/rec kit to hard wire to that(as in snip that connector and direct solder the wires together), then hook the charge wires directly to ground/the battery and skip that little main fuse. Roadstercycle has nice kits if you want USA nice stuff, or feel free to read about why he does it this way and source your own dubious kit on ebay or something http://www.roadstercycle.com/Easy Mosfet Install.htm Toss the battery on a trickle charger and get it nice and topped off, motorcycle charge systems aren't meant to charge a flat battery, that can cause extra heat in the system and end up melting things. If you spend a weekend doing all of this work you won't have to fuss with the electrical system ever again in your lifetime, short of battery swaps. The fastest/emergency way to do it is replace that connector, pull all fuses, and replace one by one until it start blowing. It could be something as silly as a light bulb hard shorted out and the fuse for that circuit being over sized. I would vote do the full check and inspect though, these bikes are antiques at this point and it being a Florida bike I assume it has lots of corrosion in those connectors, which are bad even in the rust free central Texas environment mine grew up in. Those old school spade style non sealed connectors just suck honestly.

That is awesome work, always nice to be able to trade labor like that.

Haha wow, that "solution" is a fire hazard waiting to happen.

Oh wow the angle of the back of those bags fits aroudn the stock blinkers quite well. What is the model of them?

Yeah no pics of the handbuilt show, i just couldn't make time for it. The rest of the weekend at COTA was great though as usual. Here is an album of pics i took fri-sun at the track, i need a better zoom lens but i still always take way too many pics and then just cull out what sucks. http://imgur.com/a/HdjFm Next year i plan on taking the 86 to the track.

Have you sold this beauty yet? Are you going to be at the hand built show again this year? Bummed i missed out on it last year...

Yep yep, or even additional resistance in the wiring can cause the blinker timing to be different. Your standard flashers are load dependent, meaning they blink a certain speed based on a given load, that way when a bulb goes out it flashes faster and you know. The lazy way is to swap out to a load independent flasher like they use for when they switch over to LED's, no more problem, though then you wouldn't know when a bulb is out by the speed of the blink...