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Twenty years ago I flew to Nashville, borrowed a 5th gen, and rode to Charlotte NC on all the best roads. Went home and bought one soon after. Last week I flew to Nashville, borrowed the same bike (only 22k miles now) and spent 4 days riding some of the same roads. I now understand why VFRD meets in Franklin. We stayed in Townsend, and just rode everything we could in the area. It was epic, and I will not wait another 20 years to head east again.

IMO, the fuel gauge is accurate. Concerning the first bar, I've noticed mine will go away between 20-30 miles. Doesn't matter if I just fill it up or pack it full.I've learned not to obsess with that first fuel bar thing and just ride I commute 140 miles daily with about 85 / 15 split of highway and backroads. Usually at 75 mph on the highway and rpms are dead on 5,000 at that speed. Go consistently in the 200-210 mile range before the last bar is flashing and typically putting in 4.5-5 gallons.

The fuel indicator isn't that accurate to be of any use. Track your fuel economy by fully filling the tank and write down the amount of fuel and mileage. I use autosist app to track fuel economy and service records. My 2002 is tuned for power and response via rapid bike racing and wideband O2 sensor. I target 13.5 AFR at smaller throttle openings and 13.0 at higher throttle openings. My bike averages around 7.8L/100km with a very throttle happy hand and lots of VTEC. If I cruise sedately I can get around 7L/100 or better.

Do it when your wife is out shopping and the pot will be fine. The action in boiling water is very obvious from closed to open.

A green 3-pin plug might be for the bank angle sensor but the wire colours don't look quite right. Any 12v connector can potentially melt if it gets some corrosion as that increases resistance and that causes heat. If the BAS circuit is interrrupted that will definitely stop the engine as it will interpret that as a tip-over and shut fuel pump and injection down at least. VFR 800 Electrical Schematic After 2005 Standard Type REV 01.pdf

The one on the bike is c7eh, so that's a third one now

Hey guys and gals, my buddy was riding his 05 VFR and it just died while riding. He found this green connection melted. Anyone know what it is & common solution? Thanks in advance

Some revealing testing can be done with a pot of heated water & candy thermometer, realism could be added by using a 50/50 mix. Hard to duplicate flow in system but it could reveal flawed openings,etc. mix might be hard on your favourite pot though😏

Thanks, BusyLittleShop! Hopefully today we’re going to remove the thermostat and see how it behaves without it. We’ve already checked everything else on your list — the only things left are a possible blocked hose or restricted water jacket, which we haven't been able to verify yet. I'll keep you posted with what we find!

+1 on Captain 80's. I actually have several tools I've modified like his. A long shaft medium sized flat blade, a small short shaft flat blade, and a small angle pick. The edges are all polished so I can manipulate stuff without gouging it.

Maybe as simple as pulling one from your bike to check against?

updated pics, found good lower fairings but just not in the pics. Still working on the darn spark plug problem. been tied up with my 86' ninja 1000r project.

Shot guys wil check it out.

So need help, I've just got a 1986 vfr 400r nc21.On one site it says DPR8EA-9, AMD on the other CR8EH-9. I bought the DP but thread looks too big.So I'm confused as to which ones are correct.PLEASE HELP.

Thanks terry will have a look tomorrow on the back end of the front head.

Hi there I've just got this as non runner it's been looked after new fuel pump plugs exhaust discs and pads bridgtone battle axe tyres all carbs been rebuilt with new original kits I found fuel cutoff relay faulty so bypassed that all ok new fuel filter but old one looks new tank is spotless fresh fuel pump pressure is good im not to kean on stripping carbs just going by the level of work previously done looks good as if he knew what he was doing no bodges but one minute runs lovely revs all ok next rides 👌 but misfires and cutoff any idea please I don't know were to consetrate on fuel or electrics I'm more used to two stokes raced cr 500 redrocket and huskies and maico I'm just not used to this Vfr750 and it's common faults

I have an old flat blade scew driver that I shaped the tip into a soft arc that I use as a grommet remover / installer. Get it started and then start going around and pushing thru, while holding/applying pressure to not lose what you got so far.. Doesn't tear or damage them. That particular style, thick and solid on both sides, is one of the tougher Honda grommets tho I will say.

Sunday spin whit a quiet regular stop a cafe along my favorite road Then it was like I been through a teleport But no, not on Dutch ground, just a spin thro town next to mine that has a wind mil Transalp is still doing great 👍

My clip ons, triple tree and master cylinders are looking a bit worse for wear. I'm looking to give them a refinish, does anyone know the paint code or matching paint colour for the metallic silver?

Finally getting moving on this..(I want to ride this bike!) Thermostat and hoses (clamps loose) Left Started.. Hiccup in the road.. bleah, gotta clean that.. The while I'm at it disease in full infection... (attack of the mello dude) Well, since the brakes are hanging there... Turns out doing the rear brake teardown was a good thing.. Fronts Side tip for the masses.. I had been wanting a low range torque wrench and tried a couple from Amazon. They were quite mediocre, returned them. Found this Tekton recently and its a little jewel. (10 to 150 in-lbs) Gives a good positive over center "click" when the torque setting is reached. Very good! Also have found Tekton tools to be very good. The wrench is little about 9 inch long. Very useful. Last thing for the day... some commiserating (help?) How do I get this frickn new grommet into the radiator? I have lubed it but struggle the shit outta it. (The FSM is comical, its says intsall new grommet. Oh really?Duh!) Cheers all

Temperature senders are normally screwed into the back side of the front head but in some models the sensor is connected to the thermostat housing; certainly that is the case with the VT250F which is of a similar vintage, and the NC30 looks the same so probably applies to your NC21. The manual for the NC30 says you can jump the cable for the thermosensor to earth and switch on the ignition and the gauge should jump up to "H", but not to do this test for more than 5 seconds. The thermoswitch on the radiator is there to start/stop the fan only. Over 100C this switch closes and completes the path to earth for the fan motor. You can test the motor function by jumpering the wire to earth (bypassing the switch) and the fan should run with ignition on.

I replaced my PIAA 60/55 watt Xenon gas Super White bulbs that glow in the 4200 Kelvin range with Speed Metal's 25 watt Cree LED H4 with a working high and low beam... At the time Speedmetal LED kits were $69 each at Cycle Gear... Out back the twin tail light bulbs are replaced with dual round circuit boards of LED... a plug and play system sourced at WSB Laguna Seca... RC45 LED Custom Tail Lights... Adapting the LED to center inside the existing housing requires some mild fabrication... Behold LED tail lights... Hit the stop lights and now you're really shinning.. in fact the intensity hurts the eye... Up grading to LED and you're riding so bright you gotta were shades...

Yep, just looked and they have 2 or 3 different ones for VFR400's. FREE download, no hassle. I've had plenty from there.

Tinternet, try carl salter free manuals, they have a truck load of bike manuals.