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Try without nutz first... could etch/scratch the inside and make it more susceptible to staining (permanently).

I'll probably get some CLR add a bunch of 1/4-20 nuts I already have and shake the shit out of it.....😛

Thank you all for the replies. The main reason I posted this question about this specific bike (the VFR gen 6) is because it looks to me like you can only really get a chain through one of the wheels and not the frame (but I'm going on photos only - I've yet to look one over properly in the flesh) - I have a little form on the subject with other bikes - I have a Ducati MTS V4S which does have looping points in the swingarm and I use two Pragmasis chains, one 22mm and one 19mm and a Torc Mega ground anchor (one chain through the frame and the other padlocked to one of their pinch pins). But this is no good out on the road! My favourite on-the-road piece of kit is the American Roadlok. They are very impressive and I use that on day trips on the Multi - but I don't think that's an option on the 6th gen VFR because I believe the calipers are mounted inappropriately. (NB I heartily recommend Roadlok to anyone with a later bike that has radial front calipers) I did wonder about locking wheel nuts for that rear VFR wheel. Has anyone done that? (Perhaps Honda car ones?) Finally I do own a Hiplok D1000 which doesn't fit most motorbikes really and it's been sat in a drawer since I bought it - but if that could be pushed through both discs at the front with a noose chain attached that would be perfect, but again, I suspect it won't fit. And why am I buying a 15 year old VFR? Because I always wanted one when they were new, and now they are cheap enough to run as a hack commuter, and the insurance isn't completely hair-raising - but I'd still want to hang on to it nevertheless!! My obsession with bike security may wane a little in time - and I confess my interest is piqued with the recent loss of my NC750 commuter bike (one which I thought was as dull as ditch water and deeply uncool, but clearly somebody wanted it!!)

I think I have used CLR before with good results. Something recently surprised me how well it worked, but I can't remember if it was Wheel Cleaner, Aluminum Boat Brightener or Bathroom Mildew Cleaner. It was definitely something I usually having kicking around the shop utility sink.

Since I am doing full cooling system refresh, also want to clean out the coolant reservoir too. I had this sitting for months with white vinager in it, it worked some, but not enuff. Waht are your tricks to clean out? thxz

Moving date is now end of October, due to all the work we (er, I) still need to do... It seems I was wrong about what's under the garage floor. It now appears (and I still need to pull more boards and maybe dig a little to confirm this) that there is already a concrete floor under the entire garage. It seems like it is about 90mm thick (3.5"), and on top of that is (what I think is) a self-leveling layer and square terra cotta-type tiles, followed by a plastic sheet, 5-7mm green fiberboard and, finally, softwood tongue-and-groove floor boards. All together, the surface of the wood flooring is 140mm (5.5") above the threshold of the outside double doors. The painted-shut doors also open inwards...or at least they did before someone installed the concrete floor! Since I want the doors to open again, I will either have to remove the entire concrete floor, or remove the part over which the doors will need to swing (leaving a step)--or raise the threshold and shorten the doors to clear the concrete floor. So now I have a dilemma: what kind of floor do I really need/want in my garage? Softwood is not very durable, but it's usable and slightly insulated. Terra cotta tiles by themselves are subject to cracking from impacts, and I would have no insulation at all. I could replace the wood with some of those trendy plastic garage tiles, but would that really be an improvement? Are there any other options? I suppose I could remove the concrete floor (at great expense) and re-pour it with underfloor heating, insulation or something? I wouldn't say there's absolutely no budget for that, but I think I'd rather spend the money elsewhere. * * * So, I've done some searching online, and I think I'm warming up to the idea of using 7mm PVC "x-joint" flooring tiles. They aren't as flimsy as the vented ones I referred to above, and I can probably lay them directly over the terra cotta. I can also glue them down. I'd lose what little insulation I have, but I think they would probably create a safe, sturdy surface which would stand up to a 500kg pallet stacker moving a 300kg motorcycle. Hot things would still melt them, but of course, soft wood doesn't like open flames much, either... The pallet racks would probably need to be installed directly to the concrete floor, which would mean cutting away some of the terra cotta tiles and also fitting the PVC tiles around the legs. But my workbenches could be set directly on the PVC tiles, and anything with wheels should also be fine. This could work... Ciao, JZH

Life is simple here. Just five bikes: MZ ES150-2, Honda CB350K4, Yamaha SR500, Ducati 900 Darmah, Honda VFR750 (RC24)

Repairing the O2 cable should be straightforward - hard to believe they have any magical properties 😉 Keep up the good work.

I've been looking for PCII and PCIII models in Italy. You can find a lot of them, even at a good price, but they're not for the VFR. I have a question. I imagine the PCs are all the same, with only the wiring changing depending on the bike they're installed on. Or am I wrong, and are there also internal differences? I'm asking this because if it were just the wiring that was different, we could try to make it happen. I don't know if it's possible; this was just my idea. Could someone who owns a PCII and/or PCIII post some photos of the connectors and wiring so we can see how it's done? If my idea is absurd, please let me know; I won't be offended. Thanks.

Changed the coolant on the 8 Gen to Honda Type 2 ( as I had it in stock) which meant flushing through with demineralised water to clear the old stuff out. The bodywork on the 8 Gen is beautifully made but what a royal PITA to get the fairing off and on again. So many tabs, clips, bolts. Perhaps I'm just slow but I'm sure the fairing antics took twice as long as flushing and changing the coolant. There's also a section in the lower fairing behind the radiator which collects water and grit and rusts the bolt there. I'm thinking a couple of drain holes need drilling to sort that out.

Can somebody post the dimensions of just the element area on the small version HA-8098?

Back into it tonight as a few parts arrived from Japan and the Netherlands. Unfortunately I have learned (the expensive way) that my 2015 VFR is different in a few places to the earlier 1200. I got some used O2 sensor leads as I had a MIL indicating the 2-3 sensor was faulty, and I can see some crush marks on the cable where the radiator got bent back, so that made sense. Unfortunately, the 2015 (and I think the -X model) has the O2 sensor moved to under the rear of the motor, which means the lead is about 150mm longer, and the lead from the earlier one just won't fit. Looks like I will need another new part. I did at least confirm that plugging the new (short) lead in clears the MIL. I will see if a local autoelectrician can repair the damaged lead first. Also (and this one is harder to understand) the pair of levers ordered from Webike was lovely for the clutch, but no bueno on the brake, being both shallower but also the pivot point was slightly wrong. So I will just keep working with what I have, maybe add a screw into the area that contacts the stop switch so I can make that work. Anyway, I was at least able to rebuild my front wheel with some new bolts, cleaned up rim and repainted ABS ring.

Thanks mate. These are tiny pits from the corrosion so all the high spots are gone, and I can barely feel the worst with my fingernail. I had heard of the JB Weld trick before and will bear that one in mind.

There's a quote attributed to Paul Thede, founder of supension company Racetech, "the best you've ridden, is the best you know". That is why when I graduated from a 125 to a 250, I thought it was so powerful (hint: it was a 26 bhp 4-stroke single; not actually powerful!). The suspension on all bikes is a compromise between cost of manufacture and the ability to tailor it to a specific rider's weight and intended use. There's nothing wrong with the stock suspension on any VFR (if it is in good health) but improvement is not far away. The basic components of a 41mm fork with a 20mm cartridge damper is pretty sound; mechanically not as stiff as say a 43 or 45mm diameter fork, and nowhere near that of a USD fork, but streets ahead of the weedy forks of my youth, and much better than a damper-rod fork. My suggestion is to get the best out of the stock suspension first; make sure the components are clean, the bushings are in decent order and the oil is fresh and at the correct level. Then ride and see what you like or don't like. Changing springs and damper components is pretty cheap, and they benefit you every time that you ride.

I’d suggest going thru all the basics before taking your bike to a suspension specialist. Check if the headstock bearings seem in good condition - not notchy or loose, tire pressure is ok, chain has the correct slack. Tires have an huge impact on how your bike steers. Even if they have plenty of tread your tires might not offer the feel you like.

Ah, thank you.

The stock suspension is not horrible, but leaves a lot on the table especially for us heavier riders. I am currently about 210 lbs. I do not regret spending almost as much on suspension bits as I spent on the bike itself. It was transformed into a bike that will do whatever I ask of it. It is way more capable than I am. A couple things I learned riding my '87 ZX600, and '98 VFR with the stock suspension was leaving the throttle cracked open slightly, and using the rear brake to scrub off a little speed on corner entries, and help settle the bike. Makes for a much smoother transition without the off/on throttle lag/snatch.

Again, many thanks, I am much appreciative for all the reassuring posts. Since I'm still quite novice in regards to working on my own bike, basics down but no real proper understanding of geometry... I was thinking of bringing my bike for a suspension specialists for a treat... There's 'PLR Suspension' in Newtonards here in Northern Ireland, and from what I've read online, the guy is supposed to be very very good... lots of good things said about him online, and also, apparently his service prices are very reasonable. Been really enjoying getting more accustomed to the VFR Gentleman's express hahah. I guess the bike has to be treated a certain way in regards to throttle... aiming to have a long relationship, while being able to use the engine and suspension properly, just love the sound of the engine and the feel of going up and down those gears haha... thanks guys

Is that the video where the rider runs into some oil on the track? I think I've seen that one... Maybe...

I really enjoyed this video. Saw it shortly after buying the 5th... "That's sweet as a nut mate!" hahaha loved it

Installed new fuel filter and in-tank hoses.

Do you mean the yellow one between the bearings ? If so, I haven't used it, as I assumed it's not meant to go in that configuration (2x standard bearing vs tandem as the original)

Mapping is available here. I've got an extra PC2 you can have, not 100% sure it still works though. PM me. Edit: see you're in Italy, shipping might be expensive, may be easier to find one over there. It does use a 9-pin serial port, I've had hit-miss luck with the serial to USB adapters. I have an old tower running Windows 10 and no problem running the PC software or connecting to my primary bike's PC2.

Really nice all black Corbin seat. $150 Left red panels (upper and lower) $75 These are not perfect. Bike had a VERY slow tip over and there are a few scratches. Good 15 footers. Solo seat cowl (missing mounting tabs) $50 Parts are located in LaGrange, GA. I can possibly meet in the Atlanta area. Can also ship but these are odd shapes and shipping won't be cheap.

Glad you got it figured out. I would keep an eye on it anyway.....