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Yes... plates can be cleaned and reused... First inspect the friction plates for glazing... make sure you have plenty of material to work with... your shop manual states clutch thickness in thousands of an inch or mm... Next removed the contaminants with Acetone... pick a hard surface to lay over a 600 grit black dry emery paper... rotate the clutch plate in a circle... you're just busting the glaze... don't get carried away remove too much material... You should end up with a friction plate looks dull like a new one as opposed to a shinny glazed one... recheck thickness... Finally check the pressure plates for bluing caused by localized heat... make sure they are not warped... consult the manual for a thickness range... now removed the contaminants with Acetone and wire wheeled them to erased the blue and also to generally scuff up the surface... you should end up with a dull surface free of Blue marks... Steps to check your clutch for drag... your gears can't shift smoothly if your clutch is part way engaged... 1 Place your bike on the center stand... 2 Start engine and establish a warm steady idle... 3 Squeeze in the clutch lever and shift into first gear... 4 Hold in the clutch lever and note if the rear wheel coast to stop... if it continues spinning trouble shoot the lever for travel and master cylinder for condition... open the oil filler and look at the clutch pack to note just how far the plates spread apart when you squeeze the lever... Ultimately you want the rear wheel to coast to a stop when the engine is idling and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in... Bike on its side is a simple way to shift the oil level to an angle in order to remove the clutch cover without spillage... Have a new gasket standing by...

Take a peek at the starter solenoid too.

I’ll be very interested in your solution. I’ve got an older(‘86) vfr that charges @13.7 & has done for so long I don’t recall it ever being higher, although years ago I changed rr, wiring , etc. chasing a 14+ chg.rate without success. Been cursed/blessed with so many elec. issues I’ve come to think it’s the norm😒…

Thanks for that airwalk, I have temporarily rigged up a spare shindengen plug straight to the batery posts with NO fuse in and its the same SLOW (snore) rise to 13.6/13.7v. I am now today going to swop my battery from my VFR FT and try that to see if there is a difference. I fitted the fh020 from the 800 onto the 750 and its banging 14.6 in as soon as the bike started. I put the 750 FH020 onto the 800 and guess what, The same slow rise. It has to be sommat up with the new battery as everything else has been cancelled out. fffffrrrruuuussssttttrrraaaatttteeedd isn't the word. I/ve been biking ,and restoring cars and bike since 1964 and in all my life, I have never had such weird problems.

Some conjecture, but here goes anyhoo... I have seen melted fuse holders in the charge system refurb on this forum before. Fuse holders are rated for amperage, just like fuses are rated for amperage. So getting a lighter duty fuse holder leads to a melt down eventually. Prefer to use something on beefy side... like https://www.delcity.net/catalogdetails?item=78335 Example of fuse holder ratings... https://www.delcity.net/store/Inline-Water-Tight-Fuse-Holders/p_800394.h_800395 YRMV Cheerz and beerz

Concur on this. Inspection should always be step 1

Might also be a good idea to check the master & slave cylinders, and all the lubrication points in the lever pivot. While you're at it you should check the front brake lever & hydraulics.

One of my FZ1 had similar couple years ago. Pulled the plates, separated and then soaked the fibers in oil overnight. Reassembled and all was sorted.

Yes if they are not to worn or glazed. You could try adding fresh oil to the plates through the oil fill port using a syringe & check the clutch is lifting properly. Pull the clutch lever in whilst doing this & use a wide bladed screw driver to make sure all plates separate.

Try fuse holder between rr & batt+, have had problems there a couple times. Most recent showed low & fluctuations on voltmeter while fuse remained intact, previous showed steady & correct meter readings until it finally melted w/,blown fuse, nearly caught fire. Almost as entertaining as chasing intermittent elec. gremlins🥵

You can pull it apart, and inspect them. If you do it on the sidestand you may not even lose enough oil to be a problem. Sometimes all they need is a little sanding to break the glaze, and new springs.

Be sure to test the stator hot. They will often show good when cold, but fail when the windings warm up. Also if you can get another meter to compare they have been known to lie.

Side view for Mohawk:

If you tend to ride bumpy roads the stock Corbin mounts will need repairs. They aren't very robust. Don't count on Corbin for help either they want nothing to do with any of their discontinued products.

I'm pretty sure Leon's picture is in the dictionary under HardMF.

Corbin made these for a short time, but even up here there are a few kicking around, I just had to buy the bike to get a set 🙂 they made them for the 1998-2001 VFR800 but I did see one set for a 1994-1997 VFR750, once they also made a set for the VTR1000 and others but I have never seen a listing of the different models from Corbin I also believe they made a set for the 2002- ????? VFR800 but they have got to be the strangest looking hard bag I have seen Just be sure that if you are looking for a set that the original brackets are with the bags, I have seen three of four sets of bags for sale but had no brackets with them and by the look of the brackets unless you are a good fabricator pass on the bags or get them real cheap because it will take a lot of time to mock up a set of brackets. Attached is the only copy of the mount instructions I have ever found, thanks to a fellow VFRer enjoy the hunt.

OK, this bike is doing my nut in, done the FH020 mod and associated wiring all nice and tidy. NEW battery 2 weeks ago having just bought the bike in the last month as non runner, genny checked and all in order, 15v idle rising to 45-50v AC revving. 0.3 ohm checks ok on all phases. Started bike to find just above battery volts and SLOWLY rising to 13.7V. even when revved. tried the FH020 on my old vfr750 and 14.5v straight away so thats all good. even refitted the OLD OE rectifier which I know was Ok as i checked it before modifying to shindengen,.That showed the same slow rise to 13.7v. Although the pos.and neg. are direct to the battery, the rest of the bike should not be affecting charging rate. I did solder the new yellows near the Stator. rechecked and OK. ( AC voltage checks done at the new shindengen plug anyway and Full battery volts at black shindengen plug too). This has me scratching my head. someone put me out of my misery.

Cheers for that

Need a side on pic, never seen those before, weird but interesting, no good for a high mount pipe.

0V on the battery terminals I would suspect either a measurement error or a short circuit. Did it accept charge? One thing that could drain the charge is if the starter solenoid hangs.

bike has been sitting for awhile , 7 months wont roll in gear with clutch lever pulled in . it did come apart while starting with clutch lever in . but went right back to sticking . im thinking its the plates but can i .clean and reuse plates ?

PM me or feel free to text/call me at 908-338-3581 (hopefully this is allowed) -Clean Title -27,005 Miles -Garage Stored -2 Ignition Keys -Rare Corbin Saddlebags w/ 4 Keys -OEM rear seat cowl -OEM tool bag w/ wrenches Maintenance (receipts/old parts provided) -New Perilli Angel GT tires (375miles old) -New Amsoil 100% Synthetic Engine Oil & Filter (375 miles old) -Magnetic Oil Drain Plug -New OEM Front Wheel Bearings -New OEM Fork Seals -New OEM Fork Oil -New Front Brake & Clutch Fluid For better quality pictures, please visit my facebook ad at this https://www.facebook.com/share/15W7VumkVn/

They look nice to me! Awkward shape inside but it easily fits a riding jacket on each side!

I saw a pair of yellow ones like 4 years ago on Ebay for $800. Someone bought them. At this moment, I can't find any on sale.

Amen Dutchy! That was me. I did 1000 miles in 2.5 days on my RC-51 aka SP2 about eight years ago, blasting through the northern Sierra with the norcal VFRD gang. But no longer. Gotta keep my elbows above my knees.