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OK.. went for a spin. The red light didn't come on. (Wahoo). Thats that solved for now atleast. I noticed when I let the bike idle, the (yellow) wires that were getting hot before, was still getting hot. I brought the bike for a spin and stopped occasionally to feel them. Most of the time they were surprisingly cool. However, when i arrived home they were hot again.. in particular 1 of the three which i marked before from heating up. One problem solved, another one unresolved? Perhaps I might take off the female/male connectors and try to use my new found soldering skills again. But im afraid i may be running short on wire to scalp of plastic. Im also concerned that wont fix the 'heating wire' issue. Mixed reports on the heating actually causing problems. On a side note, I found a screw in the middle of my rear tyre.. was wondering why handling was off 😆

Sitting in my riding buddy's garage contemplating the joys of our world. One of the many subjects that were discussed over some bourbon was suspension upgrades and options. The can too. I'm probably going to stick with stock for a while to get used to what Honda intended before I start making any real modifications. At least until I get some cash saved up. That Corbin is $700 US. Besides, I've only run about 600 miles so far. Tomorrow, if the weather holds out, I might get some opportunity to put her through some real paces. Thanks for the pointers, though. Keep them coming, especially as it relates to tuning, exhaust, and aftermarket parts availability. I'd love to get my hands on some luggage.

Hi fred1234, welcome to the forum. I could not find a specific flow rate in the service manual. If all flow shows equal total when comparing the injectors, they should be ok. Fuel pressure for VFR800 5th gen is 2.5 bar. Burned oil shows as blue/blue-grey smoke. Yours is showing white, correct? If injectors are good (so not continuously open when receiving a normal signal, which is a pulse of a certain width), could it be a faulty fuel pressure due to faulty FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator)?

Welcome. The OEM seat is awful, so yes, good idea. Depending on your riding style and needs, you may wish to consider upgrading the suspension, if that's not been done already.

I'm not sure just what you are asking about. The third image adds greatly to confusion BUT if the near side "excess" axle extension is your concern, there are drillings for a tommy bar in that projection.

I was thinking about a Corbin seat. Any advice is welcome, because this one is hard, uncomfortable, cracked, and in need of recover or replacement.

Here are the pictures with it next to the battery I pulled out of my 2000 VFR

I have same problem with 1998 vfr.Leak down test is ok.injectors tested flow but do not know what is Standart volume of fuel delivered per minute by what pressure and RPM.maybe oil is forced down in intake?it smokes badly

Those 2010 seats were designed poorly. The 2013 seat has more grip and should fit your bike easily. Change the brake fluid soon if you haven't. These bikes act oddly with old fluid sometimes.

Oh. I'm seeing now that the ones behind the front wheel are all the same. All 4 of them. Mine aren't. Looks like they all should be the ones with the plastic screw in them which I don't need a screwdriver for bc they never get tight.

Hey what are you guys using instead of the OEM 2 pushpin-like clips, located directly under the headlight (holding in the little black half-moon piece) as well as the 4 located along the inner cowl behind the front wheel? Or maybe you stuck with the OEM ones? Putting my body work back on tonight and these things have never really held well, especially the two with a plastic screw-like in the middle. Here's a couple pics so you can see what I mean. Wondering if there is a similar/far better alternative for all of these crappy things.

Your rear is fine. Just installed my 4th set of tires in the past 12 months., I too was wondering why the "gap" My initial thought was its an off the shelf part used on other bikes and the engineers signed off on its use. I have zero evidence this is the case though. Some pics.

They also have a "Dinner" You'll want to be sitting down if you crack one of those. 🙂

Your VTR looks fantastic. Glad that you are happy with all the changes. And, yes, I regret selling my VTR, too.

Yep.. good shout JZH. I did the soldering. Mine looks like a horror scene in comparison to yours. Those small wires just seemed to fall apart when attempting to remove the insulation Anyway, fired her up and the FI light is gone thankfully. The wires did still heat up.. its late right now and haven't time to inspect further. Ill go for a short spin tomorrow and see what happens!

Congrats & welcome!

"Lunch" 🤣

Done. 😁

Dude. Grab me one. We can have a lively talk with each other about cool Honda V4 Sport Bikes.

PSA Capt 80's is correct, l did get it wrong. Despite owning an 86 VF500F and having an 83 VF750F sitting in my garage. Think I'll grab a beer and have a quiet talk with myself. 😕

Yes! It's not a real problem in a mount up but is just a nice detail that makes things easier..

As all the ends arrive at the junction in the same direction, I just removed some insulation from all, cleaned up the surface verdigris on some, spread & intertwined them then soldered, been fine for years since.

Sorry, what I meant was that I had only crimped one side of the brass wire crimp when I took the photo. The brass crimp is longer than my crimp tool, so it required two "bites." I then crimped the rest of it and slipped the heat shrink over it. Solder also works, and that's exactly how I used to do it. Just make sure the area is sealed off from water. For this, adhesive-lined heat shrink is better than leccy tape, but it will probably be fine. Ciao, JZH

list of what I'm carrying (besides clothing) for this cross country riding. - Instead of a tool roll, Klein Tools #5189 soft/hardcase zipper thing. Lays flat in bottom of side case. In there are: ratchet, 8 - 14mm sockets, wrenches of said sizes, adjustable wrench, JIS 1/4 drive bit set and 1/4" bit driver, Leatherman style multi tool, a few zip ties and electrical tape, metric hex key set -NOCO GB40 jump pack -ROCGORLD R8 12V tire inflator. Also have SAE to female cigarette adapter so I can plug it to bike's battery tender lead. -ARI AirPlugger compact rope plug kit -ABUS disc lock screamer. More for my peace of mind than real security. -DOWCO Guardian Ultralite XL bike cover. Fully covers the ride, and deploy it at hotel stops. Again, peace of mind hoping most people will just leave alone what you aren't advertising. -wad of microfiber cloth and can of Honda spray polish (Bike Spirits would work the same) -heated jacket liner, heated glove liners, winter gloves, waterproof riding boots, frog toggs rain gear -I layer as needed, so mesh textile riding pants, leather/mesh Nomad Air jacket (Bilt), Alpinestars air vented low profile riding boots. -sunscreen, sunglasses, ballcap, 32oz stainless vacuum insulated water bottle thing. Usually load it with cold Gatorade Zero if I'm anticipating hot riding conditions -Anker 10,000mah battery bank with built in outlet prongs. They flip out and can plug right to any outlet. Good for topping off low phone charge maybe twice. Can throw it in a jacket pocket and plug to phone on mount if needed. -bike doesn't have anything special installed besides a Quad lock mount for the phone. -campsite fully contained in the drybag. Telescoping stool with pad at bottom (these are cheap all day on Amazon), super cheap Ozark trail tent from Wally world in a compression sack, blue Harbor Freight tarp (8x11???) to use as footprint for tent, tent poles and cleats tossed in dry bag, sleeping bag, blowup sleeping pad, blow up and stuff pillows, pack of DUDE WIPES. Can find these at Pilot/Flying J on the road. Laugh all you want, but indispensable if you plan on utilizing NPS s*** shacks. Kept at top of bag for quick access. 😅

So, it was a good suggestion from JZH to check the ground junction block! The advantage of crimping over soldering is that crimped connections are considered more reliable. But if you 'fixate' the soldered joint with heat shrinking tube (preferably with glue on the inside), I recon the soldered joint is just a reliable as a crimped one (since the copper wires just entering the solder cannot be bend).