All Activity

How is the oil level doing?

Hey I've got this weird ticking sound coming from my engine can someone tell me what it is please. VID_20260406_093548.mp4

My mistake on misinterpreting your information. Now I understand that the nut is still on: I unmount this bolt/nut by turning the nut and keeping the bolt fixed. I understand there is very little room to exert a lot of force and to overcome this I put on a spanner and use a clubhammer to impact the spanner. Works for me. You only need some limited space to accelerate the clubhammer to create enough impact. Unfortunately, you.don't have the possibility (anymore) to fixate the bolt and circumvent it from rotating... so Terry his nut splicer is a golden tip.

I did a quick trial fit of the parts last night. The connector in the throttle bodies came out without too much effort, and the rest of the system is then plug and play (or plug and pray). The system consists of the small CC control unit which will sit next to the ABS unit outside the frame, a wiring harness that fits between the two halves of the connector in the throttle bodies, an extension that runs back to the service connector near the battery and then a line to the bar-mounted control unit. I have Helibars and so can scootch the clutch perch over to make some space on the bars for the 3-button controller. There is one connection that I need to make to the brake wire on the bike harness, and it does look like the wire supplied is a touch short so I will splice in a bit of an extension there. The kit included an Ezy-tap joiner to connect to the stock harness. I'm planning on buttoning this up tonight but we have a tropical cyclone headed our way so a test ride may need to wait...

I just bought a PAIR delete set for my 1200 from eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/285225300697?_skw=PAIR+vfr1200&itmmeta=01KNSWB2KXKZABMWME2915RXDE&hash=item4268c0b2d9:g:orMAAOSwLulkMPPK&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA8GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xBzDiqQyRLixfy5Q3GAZh7%2BGFT9Wped0wLyoaGhOPPiFi1tIxyCyx6GKmCeg8tL3xDay0oCTKnekJ4W%2FbvoKeJH9GNouQ7BYsJY0uLAKhLzsOdYiYH%2FxBbVXMvBB5klF7EvUZoLeFcLk58iASnDHnZ6q%2BbhuA5ztQzXbbcxqUSMnQm%2F7mp6ph2aJ9LbRfBApza1zrvqzsmIiy1j8P0wdh4nqg%2BpzT0%2FFbC2YE5FCOeICrYqu6ymtkz5m07tyOhemaHMOnM62A306MmE2zhaOor%2Fsyb%2FNtIlsFqUkxGDdEQRqA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7qqrLyuZw I had to drop the radiator to reach the front head, the back head is dead easy. I then removed all of the hoses between the PAIR ports and the airbox, and plugged the airbox spigot with the supplied rubber vacuum cap. I disconnected the electrical connector to the solenoid and have wrapped that in tape. Based on past experience with my 5th and 6th gen 800s, having the solenoid disconnected will not trigger a fault code, I believe the FI system doesn't care about it. I haven't fired the bike up yet (planning on fitting the cruise control next) but I am not sure that PAIR delete will help you much. I suspect that you are feeling some low-end leanness due to a freer-flowing end can, and you may need to get a remapping done to correct that. I had something similar on my 6th gen when I fitted Micron mufflers, the low revs got pretty weak, so I reverted to the stock mufflers. Same on my MT10 when I removed the catalytic converter, it changed the fuelling and made it much rougher at low revs.

Anyone know part number for rear carrier for luggage ? Searched all over but to no avail, 6th gen seems easy to find but why not 5th gen ?

Until now, I had a manual for VFR non DCT... It is somewhat difficult to find because it is located more inside and behind a bunch of wires and hoses, but now I found it. Thank you very much for the answer and for the manual!

Did you rebuild the forks?

Hi I'm new to this , just rebuilt a 1986 vfr750f but having trouble with two things first off my tachometer is only reading one thousand revs also front forks are bottoming out . Any suggestions would be great

That looks like an excellent tool to have in the shed. That's a solid plan B. The nut is still on... Exactly that, I can get a spanner onto it, but no way to put any pressure on it. I had a quick look this afternoon, the shock won't fit past the dogbone mount. I've decided to leave well enoguh alone for now. the bearings all look and feel fine, s I'll put on the new link plates with new bolts and nuts. The bike will definitely need a new exhaust in the near future, so when I have the exhaust off, this will be a pretty quick job at the same time. It'll also mean I have a chance to take the spring off the spare shock I have and make sure it's working properly...and I might paint the spring but that's all in the future! For now, it means I can put it all back together over the next few days. My main stumbling block now is rebuilding the smc and sorting the brakes but hopefully I'll get into that soon.

Posted here cos I'm assuming there are more 1200F owners than 1200X on the site and the engines are very similar. I have PAIR deleted my 01 VFR800 and it seems to have really smoothed out low throttle control. Took my 1200X out yesterday after fitting a DAM end can and it seems a lot more jittery at low revs/throttle and I was wondering if a PAIR delete does the same on a 1200 as an 800? If it does, does anyone have a guide as to what needs removing and what sizes of pipes need blocking plus where to source PAIR blocking plates for the cam covers? Any help appreciated.

Agreed. Clever.

One other thing to tell our 2012 selves, buy Nvidia and hold. (was $.35/share)

Looking good. Like the seat release solution, I have the same set up and have just been leaving the cable dangling to release the seat.

It's not uncommon to have air in the link line between the left and right caliper that goes over the mudguard. Try removing the left caliper and elevating it while you bleed it. I believe the easiest way to bleed the abs unit is to find somewhere you can apply the brakes and activate the abs function. Grass or gravel (be careful) Do it 2 or 3 times and any air should be pushed out into the lines where you can then deal with it normally.

I reached out to Verex (which used to be Staintune) to enquire about getting a Staintune exhaust for my recently acquired '08. Their response was " we are working on getting these mufflers back into production. I don't have an exact timeframe but I will add you to our contact list to reach out once we have something closer to completion." I don't know about y'all, but I was stoked to hear that bit of news. I'll keep the group updated with any further news I get from them.

Trying to get my 2015 800x v2 front brake to operate consistently - (non linked) The front brake lever has a different bite point on first application compared to the second (so it grabs earlier when pumped, although is very hard and powerful on first application…. But I want it to be consistent! (The first pull travels 40% of the way in and the brake works perfectly. On the second pull within a few seconds it travels 25% of the way in and works the same. After say 20 seconds it’s back to 40?) Looks like air in the system but I’ve serviced everything I can think of (bleeding/pads/calliper internal inspection/new master cylinder internals ) I wonder if the ABS pump has air in it but the service manual provides little guidance here. Any ideas? Thank you Highdef

Have you looked in the manual?

A bit for the Italian fans V4 Italian style Pt4 FF

For our 2 stroke fans Pt3 Cheers FF

Hello! For some time now, after warming up the engine, the neutral indicator starts blinking randomly. When I lean the motorcycle to the left the indicator works normally (steady light) but when I lean to the right it turns off. Also, in this position the engine it does not start until it cools down. All of this happens only when the engine is very hot, near the fan start temperature. I suspect either a contact or the neutral sensor is having problems. Can someone help me with the location of the neutral sensor for the VFR1200FD (DCT)? Eventually, how is this replaced? Thanks

I thought the nut was probably still in place. If the nut is split off, then the bolt should be able to be tapped out. Having pulled the linkage out of my 5th gen, I recall that you can slide a spanner in to hold the nut but there's no way to turn it so you have to torque up the bolt and just hold the nut from turning.

@Terry: the nut is already off (right?), so are you proposing to use the nut splitter tool to get grips on the bolt thread?

Happy Days! The little box of goodies has arrived from Veridian so it is time to install the cruise control. This looks to be reasonably straightforward to do, I currently have the bike fully stripped as I fitted some PAIR blanking plates last weekend, so I just need to locate the controller onto the bars, connect to a brake light wire (beside the airbox), and plug into the service connector near the battery. The only finnicky bit is accessing the connector that lives within the throttle body, but as I already have the airbox off, hopefully not too hard to do. The Veridian instructions look pretty decent although I think their brake light wire might be mis-identified, but I have the wiring diagram and can figure out the a green/yellow is what I need to be finding. Wish me luck!

good stuff, thanks