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With RED especially, my experience with ColorRite is... ColorRong

For $77 for the paint, it is expensive but I feel the match would be perfect. It is an option for sure.

Now the dyno run has finally been done, there has been all sorts of rush here so I haven't had time to do it earlier. The result now wasn't quite what I expected. I think the torque curve is good if you don't take that last part into account. Now I have to start figuring out what's causing the power drop after 8000rpm.

Wow! That ColoRite site really is easy to use!! I found the needed base and color touch up pens within seconds!! I thought it would be much more difficult for the fastest color on the 5th gen! Thanks @FromMaine !

Seems like quite the oversight from the big B. Good words for the forum!

Also good whit most silicone is you can peel off the extra And the cap is loose and a new ordered today In general all is going slowly now, been for a while, because of other stuff as some health issues that caused a total stop for a few days late last week.....

I thought about modifying it but since I do not have the equipment would be depending on an unknown shop to execute a clean job. In the end total cost would probably be near what I paid for the no doubter Honda rotor.

Wow! Thanks! you were a big help. R334. I am just an old man who has been riding since '64 but I love this bike. My FJR has put on too much weight over the years and more likely my old body is weak and this wonderful bike and my 2017 Vstrom get me through the touring season. There are a couple of very small marks but on the pannier there is a patch 1.5 inches wide by 5 inches long. I could put a reflector over it but I thought I would try this first. Thanks for helping me.

Hey VFR peeps, Looking for help. The bike will turn over strong but is not getting fuel. I recently had to fix the BAS wiring as the connectors melted so I removed the connector and spliced in directly. The bike was running well until the BAS wire melted so I figured that was the only issue. The bike died while riding. As you will see and hear in the video, something else is strange. When I turn OFF the kill switch and hold down the start button, you can hear what sounds to me like the fuel pump. It did this 4 times and will not do it anymore. The “pump” sound was only while I held down the start button but again, it’s not doing that now… I’ll take any and all advice/comments with appreciation. TIA! Troubleshooting steps so far; it’s worth noting, that before I spliced/soldered the BAS, I bypassed it and it would still not start. 1) fixed BAS wiring 2) cleaned kill switch button with CRC electronic cleaner, 3 times. 3) checked all fuses are OK 4) made sure all connections under fuel tank are secure 5) the R/R and Stator were replaced within the past year. 6) kickstand up or down, doesn’t make a difference 7) brand new battery today

Thanks, Jeremy and Rhonda.

This. +1

Do folks ever reassemble and just slip the screens? There's a similar system in the Subaru turbo oil lines with filters being in one to all of a few locations. You have to take them all off to find out. Surprise. The filter die then grenade the turbo, or worse. Only one is sort of easy to get to. Some require similar to a timing belt service. unreal... The solution is to remove them all.

That says it all. Weight (unsprung), complexity, extra failure points in a critical system. Fucking stupid.

Take your seat off. Look for a sticker similar to the one on the photo, this is the color code for the bike. A company called "Colorite" makes touch up paint for motorcycles. You may have to order it, and it won't be cheap, but should still be available. Alternatively check out the stock touch up sticks at your local auto store. Depending how big and the location of the dings you may find one close enough for your needs. I was able to find a red and blue that were very close for my 85 RWB 1000R that way. Good luck. OEM Motorcycle & Powersports Paint | Touch-Up Pens, Aerosols, Quarts | ColorRite

Oh what joy. Brake fluid flush time again. Good job I decided to pull the secondary master cyl to inspect/ clean the little green plastic return valve assembly, piston seals had let go & were weeping Dot 4 up the bore, rusty Schmoo had collected under the boot too. Poor design imho, no wonder Honda junked the idea a few yrs later. Anyhoo. Several lolly sticks / lint free cloth & a litre of brake cleaner later, she's nice n clean again, I also honed the piston bore, this shifted the brown rust deposits, I used a grey scotchbrite wrapped around my thread tap handle, approx M8 diameter, which proved a very effective way to get a good fine cross hatch hone in the piston bore, new Tourmax repair kit on order. I'm still amazed with the micro tech that's gone into the return valve. Wonder if anyone's drilled the return bigger, if so, any benefit or detriment to the braking?

My 2015 VFR took a nap in a parking lot and has some minor dings and scratches. Thankfully, it has sliders. I am wondering the best way to obtain some red touch up paint for the plastic. Is there a code number I can find at an auto parts store? On line? Thanks in advance.

It's a new project. But I'm determined. 99 vfr800. Bought it as a project and am tearing into it... bodies aren't terrible, needs a few misc parts... I'll check mileage when I plop a battery back in. As for pictures, I'm tryin to get those figured out

Not really that hard; remove the small hoses/cables while propped up, then remove the rear pivot bolt and flip the tank right over and then undo the fuel banjo. Place lots of padding on the rear rails to protect the paint then keep the tank upside down while stored. I had my half-full tank off for a fortnight while I serviced the valves on my VTEC and never lost any fuel.

Thanks for posting this. I was not aware of this event despite living 37 miles to the west of Lands End in Falmouth and taking my 91 VFR to there on a number of occasions 10 years ago. Like the fact that there is a £600 limit on the bike that you can use. Posers need not apply.😁

Definately would be ugly, but if push comes to shove, I think I would lazer cut it.

Evening all. I have a 2002 model. Full delkevic system, snorkel removed, K&N air filter and flapper valve delete. Can anyone point me in the direction of a map for this specific set up please

For Sale: 1998 Honda VFR 800 – Low Miles, Excellent Condition – $6,000 (Woodland Park, CO) If you're looking for a classic sport-touring machine with legendary reliability and soul, this is it. I'm selling my 1998 Honda VFR 800, a 5th-generation icon known for its bulletproof V4 engine and single-sided swingarm. This bike has only 15,113 original miles—a rare find for a 26-year-old motorcycle that’s becoming increasingly collectible. Highlights: Yoshimura RS-3 exhaust – adds a perfect, throaty tone to that smooth V4 powerplant Vintage Wolfman soft luggage set – ideal for weekend touring Two-piece Sargent seat (plus the original OEM seat) – for added comfort Brand new, never-installed Daugherty Motorsports rear shock – a premium upgrade included in the sale Original rear seat cowl, owner’s manual, tool kit, and miscellaneous parts included I’ve owned this bike for 11 years and put less than 1,000 miles on it during that time. It’s always been stored indoors and well cared for. I recently: Drained and replaced the fuel in the tank Bled and replaced the rear brake fluid Fired it up—it starts, rides, and shifts beautifully The honest stuff: The tires are old and need to be replaced before any serious riding It’s not a museum piece, but it’s in damn nice shape for its age and turns heads wherever it goes This is a firm-price sale at $6,000. Let me know if you'd more pictures or a cold start video, etc...The bike is located in Woodland Park, Colorado, a scenic hour from Colorado Springs. Cash in hand before you take a ride. Additional pictures can be found at https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1246579577126991 Interested? Reach me at acehigh02@gmail.com Thanks for looking, Larry

Way old photo, but removing just a few more items and it would have been quite easy to lift the frame off the engine..

Have just done it, not all that hard if you siphon most of the gas out first, and then when you tilt it up, the larger rear most hose can be used to finish getting the gas out. On the hose joints a small squirt of WD40 works wonders and a hose puller is great too. If your systematic, it goes smooth.....