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So my chain flew off and ripped the rear brake lines up so im trying to change them out and i can not figure out how the batterey box comes out.. cant find any video or anything online so wondering if anyone has and info on that..i can get my hands all around it and under it and cant feel any bolts or anything.

I got it back together after some trials, dimmer switch goes back first, then passing switch is threaded back into its' hole and both are secured by the same screw. It wasn't too bad even with my fat fingers 😄

For sale: Aoocci C6 Series C6 Pro – Motorcycle CarPlay/AndroidAuto Screen This system is pretty much new and works great. I mounted it and ran it for about 150 miles, and decided it was not quite what I was looking for, it certainly could have been, what I really wanted to be able to display was a particular speedo app. However, Android auto would not allow a non-approve app to install. I simply could not find a work around and gave up. Every other aspect of it works great, google maps, camaras, tire pressure monitor, music, etc. I did cut/splice the power cable to shorten it up a bit, it’s only two +/- wires and is easy to change. If you want, you can also run it off the included USB-C cable instead. Memory card has been installed. It was purchased direct NIB at Aoocci.com There are tons of YouTube videos on this model, and if you wish, more info is available at: www.aoocci.com/collections/motorcycle-dash-cam $135.00 price includes free shipping (only shipping to lower US 48) PayPal only. Any questions, DM or email: hoghead@gmx.com Thanks for looking, Knute

Well I must say luck was on my side No fuel pooring today, fuel has swollen the O-rings so no leak anymore, great! The oil leak at clutch cover was gasket that had slipped off So just to relocate as tight back. Then the fairings was mounted, you gotta love new bolt's for them Then only one thing left, switch the rear wheel between my RC24's after the plastic was on Then to get a insurance as take it in road use and ride to petrol station for fuel as check air pressure (forgot that at home) And then to nice road's As a nice cafe Really enjoy the bike, some things to sort like fork over damped and front brake feel not the best but otherwise running like a champ!

Well done, wiring/electrical issues are the most frustrating to diagnose/correct

Some task that is good luck with it all, hope you have a victory soon

I found this video which describes the right hand switch disassembly and cleaning which could be needed if you have poor headlight connection. https://youtu.be/3_QMOKXJJmc?feature=shared I followed the video to be able to check the right switch assy. Some things weren't mentioned in the video: - to remove the switch assy from the bar i had to remove the brake lever. - i takes a large force to release the clipping feature that holds the right side light button on the switch body. You can see the why on the pic, snap feature is really stiff. Disassembly of the left side switch: Dimmer switch is just snapped in place and wasn't hard to get out after removing the cable strain relief and a fixation screw. you can see the soldering location for the blue/white feed wire which was broken off on my bike on below pic. This is what the left switch assy looked like before removing the dimmer switch: - i disassembled the passing button also to be able to remove the switch cover and gain better access for soldering. I struggled a bit during the removal so I am worried about getting it back together. Note: there's a spring and ball on the passing button for the tactile feel, this wants to escape and will be next to impossible to find if dropped. (Visible in lower right on pic)

Found it. So, I started tearing the bike apart. To get to the wiring, correctly, at least, you have to remove the rear plastics. So I tore it down to the frame, trying my best to remember where everything goes. I took a lot of pictures. I also removed the exhaust, as I plan on not using it, but just putting a stainless tip on the "breadbasket" with an angled cut, and leave it. If it is too loud, I'll see what options are out there, but the stock exhaust is heavy, and I don't plan on putting it back on. Will probably have it for sale on the marketplace in the next few days, if everything works out. I had a helper for a little while. The wife's bike's saddlebag kept the puppy from getting into things he shouldn't be in. So I finally got the battery tray/rear "bodywork" off. I then carefully snaked the right side coilpack an fuel tank connectors over to the left side, and started untaping the harness, starting right beneath the three-way splice. I had felt moisture once while moving the harness around, and didn't really think much of it, sniffed to make sure it wasn't fuel, and then went on. But when I started opening up the tape, it literally started pouring water out of the harness. It's hard to see, but I'm angling it down, and water is pouring out of the harness. At least 1/4-1/2 cup of water came out of it. I then started untaping the harness in earnest. Everything was damp and wet, but being coated wiring, most of it seems to be fine. Everything looks like it was dragged around in the mud before being taped up. My hope of finding the 4-way splice right at the end was soon dashed, and I realized with the moisture, as well as having to find this splice, I'd most likely need to get to more of the harness. So I disconnected the O2 connectors and kickstand sensor connector/s, and that, as well as pulling the rear sections of the harness up toward the frame, allowed me to pull the main harness up 6 or so inches, so I could reach it and untape it. I unwrapped up to the earth ground, hoping that would be as far as I needed to go. I found it! I found a 3-into-1 black/white splice, wrapped in blue tape. I unwrapped the splice, and it fell apart in my hand. The water corroded the wiring underneath the splice, and seperated it, and the tape was holding it just enough to allow spark to jump sometimes, but not enough to get 12v. Well, that's unfortunate. I continued unwrapping, and I could see a few other taped splices. I was wondering how bad the earth ground would be. It took a lot of effort to take the damn thing apart, but it eventually came apart. My fears were not unfounded. I found corrosion and dampness in there. I was unable to take this one apart, as I was able to do the other one. I will think about weither or not I want to just solder all these into one, or something along that line. Otherwise, I will take a brush and scotch brite, and do what I can to clean up the corrosion on the first few pins. I left it out to dry overnight, and I'll get back to it in the morning. I kept unwrapping, and lo and behold, I found another black/white splice. I carefully unwrapped the tape, and this one fell apart, as well. You can see both breaks in this picture. I went further past the earth ground. The dampness was not as bad as further down, but there was still moisture. I very carefully unwrappe a light blue splice. It showed corrosion, but was not severed. That gives me some hope. My dad, who is far better at soldering than I am, is hopefully coming over tomorrow morning, and everywhere there is a splice in here, the wire will be cut, stripped, and soldered and heat shrunk, before I rewrap the entire harness. I am really hoping this harness is salvageable. I think it is, but I will probably go over it with the heat gun or hair dryer, if being out in the open overnight does not dry everything off. I will go through the entire harness up until I cannot access it anymore, then rewrap the entire thing. I suspect I will be able to get it to run tomorrow evening. I do have some vacuum hoses that I have no idea where they belong. One on the left side has a white connecting male-to-male fastener on it, but no hose after that. No idea what it is. I'll worry about that after I get the wiring fixed and most of the bike back together. I will try to make sure to keep updating, as I suspect someone else is going to come to this issue eventually.

As an engineer. No. Just....no. Do not put that much moment on your walls. They're not designed for that. Unistrut isn't really meant for doing what you want to do. That angle bracket especially. Its great for easy adjustments and quick builds. Not to hold motorcycles. Figure out how you want to 'tray' the bikes. Make suitable 4 post rack. Use unistrut if you want, but use pallet rack would be easier. Can still anchor it to the wall for safety. Figure your real loading is more like 4x. 2x is considered 'sudden loading' for objects already in contact with each other.

Pretty good memory mate! First one I saw on EBay was a FH027AA for a 2021, the next one was a FH020AA for the 2013/17. Thank You.

Hi - from my foggy memory....I think CBR500R bikes used the FH020AA....

I'm looking for a cheap, scuffed up clutch cover for my 2006 vfr800 as I am planning on sending it to Sebspeed for clear conversion, As i don't see myself as needing an extra cover, I am Willing to "borrow" (and pay you a fee plus shipping) if someone has a spare or is willing to trade their scuffed one for my not scuffed one, and sending my original one once the other one is completed.

I have lived a charmed life so far when it comes to electrical system issues on VFR's. My 91 I had in the UK, and my 90 and 97 in my garage all came with upgraded charging systems courtesy of the PO's Thank you all! My new to me 01 had 11.5K when it landed in my driveway. The bike was completely oem without a single mod. I did check the charging system output and every connector for corrosion or signs of failure, a nice word for melted. Everything checked out Tickety Boo. The bike now has 18.5K, and I have some down time riding wise, so I think its time to stop rolling the dice and get proactive about a very well documented failure point as my 01 is now my go to long distance bike. So, I have some questions. The preferred upgrade appears to be either the SH847 or the SH020AA. My 90 and 91 had the former, my 97 the latter. For budgetary reasons I would prefer a used unit, preferably a FH020AA. I have come across posts that say some Yamaha R1's and R6's and possibly Suzuki TL1000's used these units. If anyone could confirm which bikes and also which years used these I would be very grateful. I see on E-Bay there are a lot of 98-99 R1 regulators for sale fairly cheap, which leads me to think they may not be SH020AA's. My plan currently is to upgrade the Regulator and its wiring but leave the stator as hopefully the new Mosfet regulator would extend its life. As always, all experience, advice, thoughts, or witty puns are welcome. Thanks

No difference.

Looking for Helibars, Hurrican, or Convertibars shipped to Minnesota.

Looking for a sargent with red welt for a 5th gen. Shipped to Minnesota.

Hi, i just bought a -97 VFR750F, originally imported to Sweden from Germany. I got 4 circuit schemes with the bike so i had to figure out the correct one. The bike variant is VFR750FV - so the 'G' for Germany electrical scheme is valid. This means that there's only one light relay and no headlight circuit breaking on the start button on this bike. The problem with the bike is that headlight won't come on but passing button works so light relay and ground is probably OK. I checked wiring with the circuit scheme and a multimeter, started on the right switch assy since this is a known issue but all was good there. Then i opened the left switch assy and voila! The blue/white wire feeding the dimmer button switch has broken off. Seems to be a soldering hack job by one of the previous owners. I tried to see where it's supposed to be but it's cramped in there, hard to get access and solder it properly so i'll have to disassemble it.

I believe I found the issue. Of all the places, fixya.com. https://www.fixya.com/motorcycles/t19075221-honda_vfr_800_a2_only_firing_1 Mine isn't firing on any. However, I called my dad, discussing about how I had checked continuity, and the four together have continuity to each other, but none to anything else. He suggested hotwiring one of the black/white cables to something else. So I did that. I pulled coil pack #1 out, with the plug, and disconnected the pack. I shoved the jumper wire into the female black/white connector, and then inserted the other end to the back of the fuel shutoff relay connector. I then sprayed starter fluid, and it tried to start. I then pulled the connector off of #3, and plugged in the coilpack I had pulled from 1, and put the plug in into it, and held it next to the frame. Spark! Remove the jumper wire, no spark again. So I am pretty sure the fixya guy is correct about this, so now I think I am going to have to tear the whole rear end off to remove the battery box, so I can correctly access where the wires splice together. Joy. My buddy suggested just replacing the wires and splicing them to another black/white connection, but I really hate doing things half-assedly. I guess I'll see how bad it will be to get to that connection point. I can see where they are taped together, just out of reach behind the front of the battery box. 20250703_110639.mp4

Has anyone been able to remove the rear exhaust headers from an 86 Rc24 without dropping the engine? I think one has a leak somewhere even though it is stainess steel. Maybe just needs a new gasket.

Well this morning started working on the upper front fairing, first talking off the broken part of the cover plate all non Japanese RC24/26 has After a good cleaning to get old glue off as supporting the cracks it was time to fasten a healthy one I did take off the other RC24'S fairing as I mounted the 88-89 RC24 front turn signals. The Japanese front turn signals sure are nice, picture below Well back to my bike, and next the front fairing was mounted as turn signals A bit after midday the part I been waiting for arrived So mounted, added oil to engine as coolant and did drive to get some fresh fuel. But clearly it's not my day The crabs are flooding and clutch cover leaks. Don't know if the O-rings will swell from the fuel? It happened to my white RC24, but not the red one. The clutch cover I need to open and see the reason, I mounted a fresh OEM gasket as cleaned surfaces as good as I could. If carbs still leaking after a few days I just have to take them out..... So no VFR riding still, bummer, but guess 11 month sitting does it's thing. But not my day...

What a fun project. From an engineering perspective, the closer you sit the bike to the vertical supports, the lower the bending moment on the cantilever will be. I do occasionally drive a counterbalance fork lift (I have a licence and everything!) and I can tell you that putting 1 tonne loads onto the third level of pallet racking takes some hand-eye coordination and a little nerve. You shouldn't have too many problems with your nifty lift truck as I expect the visibility will be much better. You will need to make sure the floor under your shelves is really smooth as the wheels look quite small.

I ran that profile years ago, and under deceleration around 40~30 mph the 3rd Gen got a little bit of speed wobble type headshake, every time and got worse as the tire wore. The problem went away when I went to a 70 series tire. This was the original Dunlop Sportmax tire from 1992, maybe could have just been a bad tire as I'm sure there are bikes that run that tire without issue, hence why they make them...