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Here's a link to the manual. Happy reading. https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/files/file/150-service-manual-6th-gen-2002-vtec-with-bookmarks-new-cover-ocr/&do=download Sounds like you need to trace from the battery positive forwards and find out why you are having power (or not) in unexpected places. You can pull a fuse at a time and see which one makes the instrument lights go out. There is a constant 12v feed to the dash but only for the clock. 6th gens do have occasional issues with the common earth block which is in the nose of the bike, usually orange or blue, these can get corroded and cause strange behaviour.

So I just bought an 02 vfr800 the people said it started when they got it from some guy I didint beleive them and was right. So I bought it for 600 bucks and towed it to my shop, I went over everything and everything seems to be grounding good and getting power and my fi light is not on but my injectors get no power there's a relay at the front that just screams if the bike is off I have no spark and the bike even when the key is off does not turn off all the way and the neutral and oil pressure light remain on. What is going on here. Do I need a new computer or what is happening

That’s a good idea. Thank you!

You should also check your starter relay(adjacent to the battery) and all its connections. Remove the rubber boot to get a good look at all the wiring terminations. Charging power from the rec/reg gets to the battery via the starter relay.

In my experience the HH pads from EBC can be louder when applied than others; mine certainly make an audible buzz when applied.

It's hit and miss, but sometimes the paint codes are shown in the part description for the particular part, as shown in the Honda Parts Catalogue. But this is usually only when there was more than one colour for the wheel. Check CMS.nl or bike-parts.fr. If the forks were all the same colour for all years, you may have to colour-match or best-guess it, based on the fact that Honda tends to use the same standard colours across many models for things like forks. Good luck. Ciao, JZH

My error, read over that somehow. Perhaps a compound change is in order. Similar but different, I bead blasted the rotor surface area on my FZ1 rotors and they were hella loud until I got a layer of pad material back on them. And after thinking a bit, I recall some Ferodo race / track day pads that were overly loud on my previous 1000RR track bike. Performance was OK, just more noise than other pads before. Swapped them for another brand ( DP ) and were almost whisper quiet comparatively.

Implied only when operated

Could we get the OP to clarify if the "angle grinder" sound is all the time or just when the brakes are applied?

I’ll probably be adding a small volt meter this time, I considered it 5 years ago but just couldn’t be bothered lol. So maybe this time…..

My bike has an issue where the throttle will cut out and the FI light will light up. As soon as i pull the clutch handle, the engine dies. If i turn off and on the key or flick the kill switch off and on, i can restart the bike. After reading the faults, it says it is the connector for injector 1,2 and 4. But what i fins weird is that it seems to be voltage related. While driving, it stays at 14.5 and i have seen a couple of times that it bumps up to 14.6. with lights off, the voltage will bump up to 14.7. If i drive the bike with all lights off, its just a matter of minutes before the bike dies. I have an issue where my light switch isnt fully seated on the normal light position, so whenever i put a light touch on my light switch, it starts to flicker off the headlights. Also the bike has started to cut out more frequent now when the park light in the headlight has gone out. Could this be related to the r/r? From what i understand, a bad r/r wont let the bike start up again?

For new pads they have a lot of scoring, compared to mine @37k Have you spun the buttons on the discs?

Sorry to hear about the failure. Heckuva way to start your riding season. 😞 The battery in my BMW is dying. (I've already bought the replacement, just need time to install it, as it's a real pain to get to on my bike.) I'm thankful to have a voltmeter built into one of the gauges - though I added that gauge, because the bike didn't come with a tachometer, and that gauge includes the LCD where the voltmeter and other information are shown. Having dealt with an electrical issue or two with my old VFR, I don't think I'd ever want a bike without a voltmeter now, whether it's built in or I add one myself. I hope you can get everything sorted and be back on the road quickly!

If anyone asks, "Why aren't there any nice 5th gen. VFRs left for sale in Canada?" I think we know the answer: @maxredline is hoarding them! 😆 Just kidding. Congrats on your latest VFR!

Seriously I'd get some copper grease on the back of those pads. I've only ever had brake squeal once before I routinely did this and never had the problem again.

Great advice from Terry and BLS as usual. If your temps were fine before the coolant change, and you didn't mention there was a problem before, it might simply be a case that you haven't burped the system properly (BLS point 4) Remember to burp you cooling system by blipping the throttle hard a couple times and massaging the hoses. Cranking the bike over sideways also helps get air bubbles out. This could also lead you back to BLS point 2.

yeah i tried it without the backing plate to rule them out and the problem persists. As it does not affect the performance i think i will just roll with it and change compound next pad change.

I'm selling the left and right hand mirrors from my 94 VFR . Both mirrors are in good to excellent shape, no cracks, glass side is excellent, light scratches on the back side, not very visable though. $50 for both, buyer pays shipping cost. Will not ship outside of US.

If you see *continuous* temps higher than 220ºF or below 180ºF then trouble shooting is in order: Continuous engine temps above 220ºF or 104ºC is a problem and the proper order of items to trouble shoot are: 1)Faulty radiator cap... system should hold 1.1 pressure ratio... 2)Insufficient coolant... 3)Passages blocked in the radiator, hose or water jacket... 4)Air in the system... 5)Thermostat stuck closed... 6)Faulty temp meter or thermo sensor... 7)Faulty fan... 8)Faulty fan switch... Engine temps below 180ºF or 82ºC is also a problem... it means that the moisture produced during combustion is not getting hot enough to evaporate out the pipe as steam... instead that moisture will migrate to the oil and produce a milky white contamination... Note normal by products of combustion is water... . Every gallon of gas creates roughly 8 pounds of water vapor... we all have witnessed water escaping out of tail pipes on cold mornings... The sequence of events to trouble shoot are: 1)Faulty temp meter... 2)Thermostat stuck open... 3)Faulty fan switch... (stuck on)

32,250 miles on the bike 13,200 miles on the FH020AA I wasn’t expecting a regulator issue that’s for sure. The battery was 5 years old when I replaced it a couple weeks or so ago. Maybe a combination of a slowly failing stator and an older battery the RR wasn’t happy. The battery has always been kept on a Tender when not ridden and was still “ok” but I know with its age it was a matter of time.

#GTMAN, No idea why filters cost so much (other than "capitalism"). My filter cost about $61 (USD) on Amazon. I've had no problems with residue in the tank using water, cider vinegar, water, and then gasoline. Good luck with getting her back on the road again!

Thats neat! We cant filter through traffic in Quebec so we're stuck like a car. I dont knownif id be willing to. Courtesy on the road is not common sens here.

Lower temperatures would indeed be very welcome. When passing traffic jams (allowed in the Netherlands), temperatures went up quickly in summer. I installed a Noctua NF-F12 (IP67) and designed/printed brackets from polycarbonate for mounting:

Curious... how many miles on the bike and also miles since the R/R change? Yours is the first ever heard about the FH020 giving up ghost... -I'm running the same 6ish years and its still fine. btw - suggest you add a digital voltmeter up front to monitor while you ride. There's lots of choices...