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As you open the PCV bleed, you should be able to push the SMC fully through its stroke and hold it there. Then shut the PCV bleed. You should now be able to pump the rear pedal and that will force the PCV back out to full extension. All I'm suggesting is that you don't just allow the SMC to spring back and pull air back in from the PCV line, that you refill it fully from the brake pedal. .

The motorcycling collective kinda goes and I agree with my experience....In big cruisers and touring bikes, they are useful and work ok.. (I am running them in the Valkyrie, they do the job there,.... the thing has big heavy wheels) But in the more sport orientied bikes... dirt/standards/sport bikes and of course the VFR, a normal style balance weight is prefered... I tried balance beads on my VFR once and in the triple digit territory, they arent balance beads any more! (imbalance beads?)

Balance Beads are not my thing, but they do have utility. I have used them twice when I had to swap a rear tire when about 2,000 miles from my garage. First time was in Wisconsin coming back from a cross country. Had a tire sent to a buddy who did not have a garage or tools. I managed to get the tire off and the new one on with my tire irons, but having no real option to balance properly I just used beads. I.knew this ahead of time so ordered them with the tire. Second time was when I bought my 4th Gen from a fellow in Iowa. I was headed to Colorado from there, so sent a rear tire and beads ahead as I flew in to pick it up. Again I knew ahead of time he lacked much in the way of tools. In fact I used a 2×4, hammer, and a door frame to break the bead cave man style. Then borrowed a neighbor's pancake compressor that surprisingly managed to set the bead. I have done a few other tire swaps on the road, but it was in really well equipped garages, so I used a static balancer and weights as I do here in Maine.

So I spent a couple of hours looking at this today. Taking apart the tape and tie-wraps, I disconnected the all the bullet connectors and measured 2.2 Ohms for each of the heater elements. I good wiggle of the wires did not show any open circuits. I then connected them in series through the loom and got 4.4 Ohms. No amount of wiggling or turning the bars could change the reading. So my problem must be in the wiring under the fairing or the controller module. Using the installations instructions to put all the wiring back on the handle bars, I noticed that the right hand heated grip wiring is supposed to be tie-wrapped to the electrical loom but mine was tied to the upper throttle cable. Can someone with honda heated grips post a picture of the right (throttle) side so I can decide how to reinstall the wiring? Many thanks John

Translation: Balance Beads should not be a thing.

In English?

Hello! I'm sorry to being back this dead thread but I'm doing this now and your help would really help me get back on the road! For the sequence for the PCV. 1) My helper pumps the rear brake pedal 2) while he is holding the rear brake pedal. I squeeze the SMC. 3) he cracks open the PCV and hopefully fluid comes out. 4) he closes the PCV bleed nipple. I release the SMC and he lets go of the brake pedal. Is this correct? When does one let go of the brake pedal? This is my biggest confusion. Once again. Sorry and thank you for helping!

Hello all! Long story long, I ordered Spiegler brake lines. I fitted them on the bike. I "bled" the system. And rode for two months. It has come to by attention that my front brake was not engaging the rear brake. So when I was rolling forward to a stop light and squeezed the front lever the bike would stop like a bike with no Linked brakes. (When engaging the rear. The bike would engage both front and rear in typical VFR fashion that we know and love) I THEN found out that one of my lines is pinched. Probably from my crappy install. This line runs from the left caliper into the hard line on the left side of the frame (which I believe goes to the PCV valve) Since it looked pinched, I contacted Spiegler and bought another line. I installed it today but did not bleed anything yet. I've read A LOT of bleeding into on the forums, reddit and the manual. And everyone has different opinions. It's minor but it's different. I come here to pick your brains once more since other threads or similar topic are dead. 1) bleed right side outer nipple 2) bleed left side outer nipple 3) bleed left side middle nipple (fluid sucked from rear reservoir) Take off left caliper and tilt it (15 or 45 degrees?) compress the SMC and have a friend undo the PCV valve under tank. Once he sees fluid coming out, he closes the PCV and I release the SMC after. (I guess this bleeds the PCV) Fluid used from rear reservoir. 4) bleed middle nipple of rear caliper 5) bleed outer nipple of rear caliper. (Helps to have the caliper lifted up so air escapes) This is how I did it the first time and am planning to do so again. Am I going wrong anywhere here? Any tips will be appreciated. THANK YOU!

Lol, I did try recording a few seconds of it but the mic or phone brains (I don't know how this stuff works) did some auto EQ thing that has it appear the cam whine is about as loud as the exhaust. It's most definitely not. If you want to hear what this sounds like just go pull off your VFR's muffler.

All this and no recording? Wtf? 😜

Speaking of Delkevics and 5th gens. Anyone else rocking a standard height mount? If so, and you want an easy laugh. FYI their link pipe OD is 2" meaning muffler ID is the same. This $40 hot garbage from Amazon also has a 2" ID. This ain't a muffler, just dresses a open header and installs in a minute. This thing is just welded aluminum pipe with a terrible paint job.. but ..The sound is otherworldly on a 1998 or 1999. 😁I tossed their staggered bracket it came with and just slapped on a 2" brace from Home Depot. Yeah.. I'll be putting the Tri-Oval Delkevic right back on. An hour of this was fun enough, but is a little loud. I'll keep it around though. Probably toss it on for a coffee meet or something who knows, straight pipe Harleys can't have all the fun. I'll bring the Delkevic can with me of course so I can swap back. 2000 and 2001 owners with the catalytic headers might be able to get away with running this all the time since the cat is it's own silencer.

Citeam despre Balance Beads și mi-am dat seama că după o zi lungă în garaj sau cu hobby-urile tehnice, e plăcut să te relaxezi puțin online. Eu mă joc pe chicken road game, optimizat pentru jucătorii din România, și jocurile rapide și bonusurile locale fac timpul liber mai distractiv. E o metodă excelentă de a te deconecta și de a te relaxa după orele petrecute cu motoarele sau alte proiecte.

No worries, hope you get the old girl up n running soon.

Pics required if you need advice.

Sound like this so called tech is blowing smoke up your arse mate. A few simple meter tests will confirm if starter is good or not. If starter's got a short, no way can a short just disappear when starter's removed from the bike. Hope this stealership's not rippin you off bro.

Thanks for the posting op. I recently had a 5th Gen plop in the shop, did a thunderous tear down, threw a slough of parts into the garbage, and am hoping I remember where the good parts go lol It will be a pile of parts by the time i'm ready to put it back together.

VFR1200F FD 2010-2015 Service Manual View File Better quality images in this one. Submitter Terry Submitted 11/19/2025 Category Owners Manuals and other  

A starter that fixes itself on the bench? That's freakin' cool.

https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/files/file/290-vfr1200x-crosstourer-honda-shop-manual/

Sadly, sfdownhill is no longer with us. I don't know if that kit contained any custom machined parts, but I suspect it did.

Skeptical, but thinking positive for you. I have been wrong many times before and will be many times in the future. Good luck.

Very interesting build. Sorry about the pathetic posts from that guy, he's not like the rest of us. Are you talking about the 8th Gen rear hub/wheel?