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Installed a brand new battery, fires up, volt meter I installed shows 13.1 while at idle. Let the bike sit for 2 weeks and battery went completely dead - would not even come back to life when hooked up to the trickle charger. Noticed battery was low during the winter when not riding for a few days so I put it on the charger thinking it was the cold that was giving it a hard time but it seems like something is slowly zapping it and if it sits too long it kills the bat. Can someone point me in the right direction for a troubleshooting guide?

I have the same issue. Did you try the above? Did it resolve the issue?

Oh, don't I know it! 😉

My money's on a gummed up bar switch. Factory grease & 20 + yrs of use = gummed up switch gear. Had a similar issue on my 99, sticky/sluggish flasher switch, pulled it apart, full of sticky crap, deep clean/polished all contacts, light smear of silicone gun grease, like brand new, still working mint for last 5yrs. Went back in during winter lay up, gutted rest of switch gear, deep clean/lube, all working as new. Personally I don't rate contact cleaner as anything special, it's only a glorified over priced mild de-greaser, but it's kinder to plastics than brake cleaner, so useful to wash plastic parts when cleaned, it'll do little to nothing just spraying it into a switch. Switches need servicing at some point. I use scotchbrite pads on electrical contacts, switches like horn & starter draw a lot of current & use a heavier set of contact points, these need filing to clean em, I have a set of super fine diamond files for this job, but a fine needle file or some emery cloth wrapped around a lolly sticky. It can be a fiddly & time consuming process, but worth the effort. Horn switch is a real biatch to remove & install from the main switch housing, clean in situ is my advice. Harness to chassis grounds are a weak point too, well worth cleaning em all up with some emery cloth & treat em to some kind of anti-oxidant solution. 👍

This right here: Genuine Honda Type 2 Coolant/Antifreeze 5 Litres (Pre Mixed) (08CLAG026L2)

Is the option connector under the seat or near the headlight? I can look for the wire colors, but I wouldn't mind a little help with the general area or how deep I'll be digging. Thanks!

The 4 times I have cleaned it I've probably used 4 different bottles of cleaner. Mostly whatever Electrical Contact cleaner spray the local Auto parts store has. I get in there with a tight, pointy cotton swab (the kind that doesn't fray easily) and get in all the little spots. The last time I even got a tiny metal pick and ensured the 3 circular contacts were clear of any residue. Every post I have read about it always talks about opening up the switch and cleaning it, which granted is sound advice, but it doesn't solve the problem. There must be something else going on. Especially since on all of these situations, the Right Signal is worse than the Left. Yes on my bike I do have running lights. When you select the signal the corresponding light goes out, and stays out until the signal begins to flash.

Yesterday evening I attempted to install the new muffler brackets. It was a trial, I knew it was, but in my mind I've been hoping it could work: the brackets are 3D printed in PA12 enhanced with carbonfibre In theory, the idea is brilliant: components light (VERY light) and resistant. And they are very nice, indeed: Unfortunately, they're not strong enough, and prone to bending: I gotta find a solution, or I'll be obliged to come back to old good aluminum 🤔 Failure is the path to success 😁

From an electrical perspective, power flows from the battery to fuse and then through the flasher relay to the switch, and then separates to the left or right sides. I think the only thing that can cause a delay is the switch, and the likeliest cause is old, stiff grease holding the contact points apart. That is also why regular use and cold weather have an impact on the delay you are seeing. The grey wire is power in, orange or light blue is L and R out. You may also have running lights which should have constant power (not through the flasher relay) on the Brown/Blue wire, and out on the Light Blue/White and Orange/White wires. When you use the turn signal, the side lights get cut out. When you cleaned the contacts did you use a contact cleaner or a spray like Deoxit (my fave)?

I've been chasing this issue for years. Pressing the turn signal switch to activate the signals and there will be a delay before the actual light starts flashing. Just like all of the many many other posts about it, the right side is more effected than the left side, and it seems to be temperature related as it doesn't happen on warm days. It also goes away with regular use. (So if you ride everyday you may not have this problem) Has anyone found an actual solution to this besides opening the switch and cleaning the connections? Because I have done it like 4 times already and it only helps for like a day before they start acting up again. Link to the last thread about it:

Well-played Mike. I could do with that diagonal support "member".

homeboy?

Put the bolt in a drill and spin it against a scotchbrite pad + polishing compound. Chaos Causes demonstrates this over on YouTube. (the video should start at the 7:00 minute mark) A bench grinder and polishing mop would be the easiest way, but they might come out shiny polishing by hand.

Great stories never start with " After I had that second wine Spritzer" 😁 Definitely will be keeping an eye on your progress.

i know, i was just explaining to homeboy what "50 state version" meant, since he thought they didn't exist

Thanks Skids, feel free to give me more specific info on the reflash and suspension upgrades. Right now I have the more pressing issues of mostly seized front brakes, a leaking fork seal and an electrical gremlin; I had started the bike once, but when I tried to repeat that I got an electrical pop and deadness so need to locate the cause. Not asking for any dick pics, but do you have any photos of the left side of your bike with its clothes removed, especially the area around the front left of the engine?

That sucker looks rough! You're a beast to take it on.

Not a question of legality, but power production.

I made a bit of progress over the weekend along with my helper! Front wheel removed and forks out. They are not in great shape but have cleaned up reasonably well. I dropped them up to a local mechanic to do the fork seals and oil as I have nowhere clean to work. The downpipes are looking fairly crusty, I'm not looking forward to taking those off! They go on the list for winter. It does look like the oil cooler lines have been changed which is good. I took one look at the calipers and ordered good second hand ones which arrived a few days ago, so I'll try refit everything this week and hope to get out for a first spin at the weekend just to see what else it needs.

Do yourself a favour & buy a vacuum pump, used em for yrs, gets fluid moving thru the master cyl/hoses/calipers, shift most if not all air, finish off with a master cyl full of slow lever pumps to get last dregs of air out. Never had any probs bleeding conventional or CBS or CBS/ABS brakes on a bike, must have done a few thousand bikes over the yrs, cars too.

I don't rely on it but it's good to have for emergencies. Level pumping like a pleb.

Yep, had a few Honda's with CBS/ABS, more bother than it's worth, I don't mind linked braking, in fact I quite like it, not a fan of ABS on a bike, when it goes wrong, it's usually an arm & a leg to fix it. Hence why old ST1100's with ABS are worth next to nothing, I know quite a few Pan 1100/1300 & Blackbird owners that's removed it & re-piped it like a normal system.

Have you tried it?

ABS is pointless on a bike, too many variables, parts are prohibitively expensive. How are you bleeding it? Lever pumping or a vacuum fluid pump?