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You take a look at the switch itself? Wiring connections can come loose from pads or contacts can be super dirty. Either condition will keep low beam relay from pulling in. I know on occasion older bikes I haven't exercised in a while, headlight beams can be lazy to actuate at the switch. Most recently my 99. Coming back from hi to low beam on a ride bike was running dark till I gave the switch a firm cycle and firm press to low.

These still available?

I wonder if wear on the roller and its axle on the shift arm contributes to gear change slop as well as the star profile? Will you put in a new shift arm as well? Ah, re-read your original post Gaz and see you intended to do that anyway. Sorry.

Never told that I did return the subframe that was not straight but decided to keep the central stand, as it's becoming a quiet hard part to find. The "pipe main stand" is now out Next to find a new one, not awable through CMSNL, so if I can't score one I need to make one.

Those badly hacked wires are for the brake light switch, nothing to do with the headlight. The PO has probably taken a 12V feed off the brake light feed for something else like a USB charger. You should remove the dangling wire so you don't get a short and take out the fuse. The headlights (low and high) are powered through relays; these are magnetic switches, when the coil is powered it causes an internal switch in the relay to close and e.g. allows power to reach the low beams. There is a separate relay for the low beam and high beam, but they can be swapped around to test. To close the relay, 12v must be fed to one terminal of the coil, the other must terminate at the ground to compete the circuit. For the headlight, power comes from the right pod along the blue/white line and that powers the low beam relay coil to close. The same blue/white wire feeds th high beam circuit as well so you know that is OK. Both coils are powered from a red/black wire in and feeds out to the low beam bulbs on the white/black wire. I'd suggest you find the low beam relay, check that it is receiving 12v on both the red/black and the blue/white (when ignition is on) and that there is continuity to ground on the green, and that there is 12v on the white/black when 12v is applied to the blue/white. You could have a dead relay (can switch it with the high beam to test) or a bad ground.

6 Days ago I picked up a gently used (81,000km) 2007 6th gen. On a ride today, it was pointed out to me that my headlights weren't working. Checking my GoPro footage from earlier this week - it seems my headlights have been off since I bought it... oops. High beams/brights work fine, same with the pass button - just no low/main beam lights. Here is my current path of diagnosis: Checked fuses in fuse box under fairing on brake side (front) - all ok. Tested low beam headlight bulb with a 12v battery - works ok. WD-40'd starter button - seems to move fully in and out. A potential cause I have discovered is looking back through the Marketplace listing photos - there appears to be a cheap light bar/LED strip installed, but was not attached to the bike when I bought it. Looking closer at the starter switch, it appears as though something has been spliced into one of the wires (pictured). I pulled off the loose piece of wire and plugged the spade back in. Still doesn't fix the problem. My guess is that the seller has hastily ripped the light bar and associated wiring out before the sale. Is it possible that during this process something not-so-obvious has been shorted out or disturbed? Any help or ideas are appreciated.

Better pics of star and dent arm / shifter arm on this how to: Factory Pro EVO Shift Star kit 1/2 way down, good close up of how the star and dent arm / shifter arm mesh. Looks doable. As an FYI, another how to: Factorypro Shift Kit Install Good luck, have fun. Forgot to mention, many years ago ('19?) there was a VFRD group buy. Rode over to the Factory and picked one up, it did make a difference in shifting.

Keep this thread updated on your progress

V4 Galore!!! (Now where is Pussy?)

I fitted one of those shift stars to my last 5th gen (which I bought in '14) as it had a pretty baggy gearshift. It was a worthwhile mod on that bike, IIRC the shift star was a bit more "spiky" (as opposed to rounded) and the detente arm had a ball bearing in the wheel, so a nice snicky-snick feel and more positive action.

Another one for the those in the Chilly North. Took this one today by Lake Waikare, lovely summers day at about 25C. Sorry. The bike is no beauty but the view is all right.

Hi Peeps. I'd noticed a few lazy gear lever returns of late, seems like the detent arm wheel might be past its return spring might be a tad weak, after all it's 26yrs old, stilll fairly cheap from Honda, then I had a "While I'm in there moment" why not fit a Factory Pro kit (bearing detent arm/spring & star), checked current prices, Jeez, $259.95 = £194.40 GBP, I think not, feckin way too spensive, plus there's shipping & the dreaded import tax for all goods above £130 GBP, no UK suppliers that I can find. I thought screw this, I'll make one, well modify one to be exact. A quick scan of eBay, several cheap shift drums on sale, all with stars still attached, no brainer, defo worth a punt on re-profiling one, it's only removing metal & re-hardening steel, there's a decent pic of a Factory Pro shift star to work from on their website, I can always put it back to stock with my original shift star if I don't like the end results. Anyone had a play at this mod before or am I the first lunatic to give it a go?

Could be something simple & of no real concern, but I'd eliminate it being a loose or broken bolt first, come across a few snapped engine mount bolts over the yrs in both cars n bikes. I'd drop the fairing sides off, go round the whole bike & torque all bolts to spec, road test again for said noise with fairing off. Check both fork tops are set same height above yoke ... 41mm ish if memory serves, check manual, could be a loose fork cartridge lock nut allowing inner shaft to chatter in fork top? As Terry states, rear brake caliper hangers can rattle on some bikes, seems Honda cocked up & never designed in a shim to keep it under lateral pressure, which is what it needs. Ducati copied the swingarm & shimmed it, even these are known to clatter as they did away with the torque arm & had a metal to metal interface like most bikes have, cheaper engineering is rarely the best option. I've used the dental floss method numerous times to confirm a part is actually noisy or not, you could try wrapping floss in the groove between the massive circlip & hanger, it'll put side load on hanger & take out all the slop, it'll be a fiddle but doable, then road test again. Seen a few high milers with a few dabs of silicone sealer in the circlip groove, seems some bikes rattle, some don't, there's clearly an excessive tolerance from new, grease from new may have helped stop the hanger fretting & wearing, grease attracts grit, so they got built dry. Mine has a bit of lateral free play when u grab the caliper & swing on it, which it should have, no rattles tho. Might even be brake pad chatter, check pads & pins are all good, check for excess wear in the caliper carriers where pad ends reside, it's not unknown for pads ends to be adrift at the shim end when shim is left out & the pad back plate mullers the carrier to a point that it's scrap metal, seen a few left front carriers knackered, spensive repair as it's the 2nd master casting. Good Luck 👍

Hi Grant. Have you thought of contacting the NABD or other organisations that specialise in adapting for riders particular needs. They will have lots of contacts/ advice and may be able to put you in contact with a specialist who can modify the OEM arrangement for you. Alternatively, it could be that a 'tuneable' aftermarket quick shifter system (up and down) might be a solution. However, I could understand you wanting to keep as standard look as possible. Couple of links below might help https://disabledmotorcycleriders.com/ https://nabd.org.uk/v2/adaptation-kits/ https://www.kliktronic.co.uk/

Have a look at the rear calliper; I had something similar on my 09 800 and could feel a slight "clatter" on slightly rough roads, especially through the footpegs. When I grabbed the calliper there was a bit of vertical freeplay, in my case this was the calliper bracket (the dashed parts below) where that sits on the wheel bearing carrier, rather than just the calliper sliding mounts. I also have a 5th gen and there was no discernible freeplay on that one. I went as far as full rear hub disassembly and replaced the calliper slide pins and boots, and there was nothing obviously amiss aside from freeplay in that specific area. I have slipped a spare feeler gauge into the joint and that has diminished the freeplay to a point that is no longer noticeable. Most importantly if this is the same as your issue, there is absolutely no risk; the bracket is trapped by the wheel hub against the swingarm, and the torque arm stops rotation, so the rattle is actually of no consequence.

Hi Grant. The VFR1200 is a great bike. I've owned the standard shift, and ridden the DCT. How about some more information: -Since you can't use the two shifter paddles on the left bar, I assume that you also can't operate a clutch lever. Is that correct? -Shifting, braking, and operating the throttle with your right hand, all at the same time, doesn't seem feasible. Or, at least, safe. There are bikes and systems that allow shifting with the foot w/o using the clutch. Maybe others with more knowledge will chime in. Best wishes.

You said bearings.. that include steering head bearings? That's usually the first stop for wayward "clunks" on any bike. bearing preload could be a little loose. Get the front wheel off the ground. (EDIT: forget headlift stand, just realized that won't work for this test. Forgive me, most recent I did bearing preload was on a cruiser with a frame scissorlift.) deploy the center stand and have helper sit on pillion. This will rock the bike bike onto the rear wheel and lift the front off the ground. Go to the front of the bike and firmly grab the fork legs. jostle them forward and back and see if you notice any play about the headstock area. you can also do a fall-away test (google that) to see if there's any notchiness. technical check for preload is in section 13 of service manual (use of a spring scale) but... if you center the forks and with very light pressure like you almost just breathe on them the turn starts and then the fork bounces off the stops like a ball bearing on concrete preload is probably a bit light.

Awesome information. Thank You.

Hi all. Merry Christmas. I have a weird issue for you all. I have a really strange noise/feel issue and was hoping someone may be able to help. I've checked everything within my (limited) scope. Wheels/shocks/linkages/bearings all seem fine. Everything works as it should. But. On tiny road imperfections, I get a sort of 'click' through the frame/pegs/bars. Like metal on metal. Not anything that moves the bike, but a definite feel. It doesn't appear on proper potholes or any serious suspension use. Just the smallest road imperfections. It's unsettling me a bit because my grandkids are forever on the back. Any ideas?

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From the wiring diagram, there is nothing magical about the shift switches on the left bar, so that should be easy enough to replicate on the right in some form.

Although I can use a clutch it is not very easy so the safer option for me is the DCT as it removes the need for the clutch.