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Well...this has me baffled. Let's go through it all from the top. About a month ago,it stopped 3 times in one day. Got it home and first thing I noticed it was leaking fuel at the filter because the wrong filter had been fitted and the inlet and outlets were smaller than the oe filter so,we replaced that . The symptoms....bike drops a cylinder until eventually it dies and won't restart. Let it sit 5-10 mins and off it goes. Carbs cleaned,correct filter, petcock cleaned and pump is working. Since it last stopped,I thought I had the issue cured as I've done around 500 miles since, absolutely faultless and then today...it stopped at the side of the road.It definitely had all fuel in the carbs used as when I tried to restart,the fuel pump was clicking fast to prime the carbs but it didn't seem to be getting fuel. Let the bike sit ten mins,it fired up straight away and all good. Anyone experienced an issue like this. NB, my fuel pump was cool to the touch

It should be noted that these are the "Y2K" VFR800Fi mirrors, used only on the 2000-01 VFR800 models. Before 2000, VFR800s had condom mirrors, and after 2001, VFR800 mirrors had a narrower bolt-spacing. Ciao, JZH

In theory, the final digit in a Honda part number (which is the only difference between the two part numbers in your example) is a "subcontractor" designation and not a "modification" designation, so the two ECUs should be functionally the same, even if they have been sourced by Honda from different OEM suppliers. But Honda is not bound by the logical implications of its own part numbering system, so there could be other reasons for the changing of the part number. Indeed, a little searching on CMS' website shows (a) that both parts appear to have been manufactured by the same supplier (Keihin), and (b) D03 is shown as a "supersession" of D02. Another EU website, www.bike-parts.fr, agrees that D02 is "obsolete" and was superseded by D03. Whether this is accurate or not is not known, but the available evidence suggests that the two ECUs (PGM-FIs, in Honda-speak!) are indeed functionally identical. Good luck. Ciao, JZH

Well, if it's really bad, there's always this: Ciao, JZH

I had the same problem when I bought my 2001. I worked on ships my entire life, where rust is a constant problem. We use a product called Phosphoric acid to neutralize rust as it chemically changes iron oxide into iron phosphate, which acts as a barrier to further oxidation. Here is the post I wrote up last fall. I assume you have the tank off the bike, if so set up a table with a soft blanket, drain most of the gas into a container and set aside as you will use it. Place the tank upside down on the table. Use a pair of rubber gloves and a coarse 3M pad and reach inside the tank and scrub everywhere you can reach using the old gas as a solvent. This sound tedious, but does not really take that long. When done, prop the tank upright, I used some line to hold it up and use a hand pump to remove the gas and rust into a shallow pan, like you would use for an oil change, and set that outside in the sun. The gas will eventually evaporate leaving the rust and a bit of sludge which can be more easily disposed of rather than all that liquid. Repeat this process using your old gas until you feel you have gotten everything you can reach out of the tank. Let the inside of the tank dry for a day or 2. When completely dry, take about 1/3 of a litre of fresh gas and use a fresh 3M pad and scrub the inside of the tank again. If the gas turns brown or rusty, drain and repeat until scrubbing with fresh gas does not discolor it. Drain and let the tank fully dry again for a few days or so. Remove your fuel pump from the plate it is attached to while waiting for the tank to dry, you will need it to plug the hole when you add the Phosphoric acid to the tank. When the tank is dry, add about 1/3 of a litre of the acid, and with rubber gloves and a fresh 3 M pad, srcub the inside of the tank. If the acid turns brown from rust, drain and repeat until its fairly clear. I let the tank dry for a day, but at that point you can add about 1/2 litre of acid, seal the tank with the plate, plug the fuel lines and turn the tank around 360 degrees in each direction. When fully coated remove the plate and drain the acid into a container and save. Let the tank dry completely and inspect, it should look pretty good by now. If it does, take the acid you saved and put into the tank and repeat this last process one more time, then drain and let the tank dry. If all goes well it should look like mine in the post. Note, I do not live in a very warm place, if you happen to this process will go much faster. It took me almost 4 weeks, but 95% of that was waiting for the tank to dry. Note. Phosphoric acid sound like a strong thing to use, but look at a can of Coke, its listed as one of the ingredients, so if you can drink something that contains it, well, its not so bad, Note. Phosphoric acid will discolor paint if left on a surface , so be careful when pouring and removing. I keep a spray bottle of water handy along with some rags to clean it up if it does happen to get on the paint. Note. Letting the old gas and rust evaporate in the sun means you do not have to find a way to dispose of it, same applies to any left over old acid. Note. If your pump still functions, you can carefully clean it also with the acid. I used small acid brushes and Qtips. Do not soak the entire pump in it. if the tank is that bad you probably should replace the pre filter and primary filter for peace of mind. Note. When done, I do not recommend you coat the tank with anything. A look inside the tank should be explanation enough for why this is not a good idea. Note. Do not use any Phosphoric acid product that is not a thin liquid. There are some out there that are Gels, avoid those as they will leave a residue in the tank that will ruin an otherwise great day on your bike. Hope all of this long winded post proves to be of some value to you. Take heart, you can get through this and be out riding this summer, it will just take some time and elbow grease. Best of Luck, and don't hesitate to PM me if you need any clarification to what I posted above. Regards, Michael

I need to replace my blown 2010 ECU (see attached photos) with a used one from a 2012 Honda VFR1200FD. The 2012 model has some ECU improvements compared to the 2010 model. Do I need a software adaption to my bike VIN or it is just plug&play? I appreciate your advice/reply.

Some updates on Transalp The not so good routing of the scottoiler tube is sorted. Less risk something grabbing it offroad The brake caliper bolts rear look better now And did put the orginal reflector holder on whit a new same shape rear reflector as the orginal lens was missing I really don't think the round one suited the bike Well as I told you some former owner had made patina look whit not so good results (Franklin disaster results) here some tasters of that I just can't understand why, I tried to polish them whit scratch repair compound but really don't work to well, actually looks there are some deeper that comes out, could be they tried to cover whit making more? Still stupid in my opinion, so yes, next winter a respray, now I want to enjoy it!

What worries me most is how to clean the inside of the tank which is reduced like the pump and even worse.... Do you have any advice on how to clean it?

If you only could fit a vfr750 engine in the frame would be really great bike

1990 - 1997 are painted originally. It can seem light, but they are painted. At least US models are. If the top is "before", and you owned it since new, then the markets are different.

Thanks for the tips, fellas. The paint (clear coat methinks) on my '92 VFR750's forks was scarred in a few places, and after stripping I found most of the legs were reasonably smooth. Some areas of the side facing the wheel still showed some casting texture. Both legs are stripped, the lower one's been polished with emery paper, scothcbrite pads and Solvolautosol. Didn't take too long to have it looking presentable again. Decided not to repaint them, and they still looked great after 2 years and 15K miles.

I've already posted this on VFR world, but I want to see if the response is better here. I'm trying to fit a new used ECU to my 2005 VFR 800 after my last one had an internal short to ground. The previous ECU had the model number 38770-MCW-D03, however I've managed to get hold of a used 38770-MCW-D02 with registered keys, hoping I could get it to work. According to Honda's website, this was the ECU for the 2002 European model, and apparently they changed the wire harness and ECU with the European 2003 model. Same connectors though. Off the bat the HISS system recognised the key, and the fuel pump primed with the new ecu. However when trying to start it, it was as if the immobiliser was still active. No life, only turning. There was also no smell of fuel from the exhaust. I assumed this was an ECU issue, as according to the diagrams, the wiring to the 2002 European ECU was different from mine. After turning the internet upside down and reading through some pixelated wire diagrams, I found the supposed pin layout for the 2002 European model. After applying it however, the HISS transponder was no longer grounded, so the bike couldn't start. Changing the HISS wires back to the original position made it work again (still no start though). So the original wire layout did not work, and the supposed 2002 layout from diagrams was definitely wrong. Therefore, I'm wondering if any of you guys know the correct pin layout for the 38770-MCW-D02 ECU or if it is, in fact, the same as for the D03, and I need to troubleshoot the FI and ignition system. I don't see any reason to why the D02 shouldn't work with the 2005 after some tinkering, but maybe I'm mistaken.

Yay...the slow aeroplane from Japan arrived with my new VTEC buckets. Took me about 4 hours to refit all the parts last night; I checked the VTEC clearances with the new parts and was happy to get these back to the target, then I refitted the radiators, airbox, tank, the usual drama. I have now overcome my fear of camshaft removal and aside from a bit of fiddling to get the tensioner-side cam timed correctly it was easy; the markings on the sprockets make alignment pretty certain as long as the crank is sitting at the correct timing mark. Best of all, when I pressed the start button...it worked. Sounds exactly the same as before, but I have no extra parts left over and no fluids leaking so I will call that a win. Time for the test ride... If anyone needs some stopper pins you would be welcome to them; I also have a 6 used buckets that are now the wrong size for my engine.

I had a triumph 955st same problem. I always wanted a VFR I bid on a micron pipe on eBay it was the high level one……..I then bought the bike it fitted. 😁 by chance a breaker bike was advertised I bought that, rather than break I got it going very nice bike now. I was then told about another one leaning up against a shed so I now have that as well, again low miles lots of carb issues brake and suspension and on.

It is a great "mod". I took the brand new looking condom style from my 1995 that the original owner seemed to have swapped out in 2000 and put them on my 1992 that DESPERATELY needed some fresh mirrors. When they decide they are going to shrink / deform and be little bitches they will also be replaced by the same.

I also changed the mirrors as the original ones never stay together the shroud always separates. VFR 800fi turned out to be a good fit

Welcome! The bike looks to be pretty complete and as far as the fuel pump, we've seen much worse! Hopefully it won't take much to get it going again. Justin

I'll leave this on only VFRD for a few days before I go to other sites. Please PM me if interested. Thanks! 2003 Honda RC-51 SP-2, $5800 This bike was Honda’s “Duckhunter.” Honda got tired of seeing Ducati win the World Superbike Championship under rules that gave a 33% displacement advantage to the Italian v-twins, so they built their own v-twin version of the Ducati, the RC-51. Nicky Hayden won the AMA Superbike Championship on this bike in 2002, and Colin Edwards won the World Superbike Championship on the RC-51 in 2000 and 2002. It's a 1000cc v-twin, fuel injected, producing about 130hp with a very broad torque curve. Ducati spirit with Honda reliability. Here’s a great article from Cycle World with more about the RC-51: https://www.cycleworld.com/sport-rider/honda-rc51-rvt1000r-great-sportbikes-past/ 22,350 miles Michelin Power 5 tires, about 1500 miles on them All brake pads replaced, also about 1500 miles on them Fork seals and bushings replaced 6000 miles ago All regular service, fluids, and valves Mods: · CRG clutch & brake levers (installed by the PO) · 15/41 steel sprockets and 520 chain · Galfer stainless steel brake and clutch lines · Ohlins rear shock and wishbone, from Kyle Racing · HRC sticker! · Swingarm spools for Pitbull stand · Stompgrip tank traction pads, easily removed if desired Comes with: · Original owner’s manual · OEM Honda shop manual · Original passenger pillion seat (looks new) · Clean California title in my name · Old shock and wishbone if desired · Two keys, one original · Original tool kit I bought this bike in 2016 from the original owners in Senora. It has been garaged its entire life. I have carefully maintained it according to Honda specs, including regular synthetic oil and filter changes, clutch and brake fluid and coolant change every other year, and did a valve adjustment at the specified mileage. It runs flawlessly, always has. 100% reliable. I’d say it’s in B+ condition. It looks stunning from 10 feet away. Up close you’ll see a few scratches and bumps. It’s never been down, but the PO was aging out, and it seems like he moved things around a lot in his big garage and bumped into it several times. Specifically, minor cosmetic flaws in order of noticeability: · A set of scratches on the left upper cowl above, and on, the left headlight cover. · A small crack under the right upper cowl mounting bolt. · A small crack above and under the right front turn signal mount. · A half inch tear, more like a small puncture, in the seat cover. · A shallow 1” dent on the left exhaust can. · The wheels and swingarm have some small paint scratches. I haven’t put a lot of miles on this bike the last couple of years, and I keep telling myself I should sell it to a good home where it will be used more. But then I ride it, love it, and can’t bring myself to part with it! But it’s time. My other bike is a Multistrada, great for sport touring, and maybe I’ll replace the RC-51 later this year. But yeah, now it’s time to sell.

He should be happy. F2s are nice bikes.

Well, my motorcycle number is down to 6 again Bye bye 1992 Honda CBR600F2 In picture new owner on way after deal is done, I wish him happy milage this summer

It's been a few months since I bought it, but I can only write now. I've always liked the VFR, I wasn't looking for one, but I had an opportunity (for me) and I bought it. I'm Italian and I live in Italy, and the bike is a 1998 VFR 800FI, single owner with just over 54,800km (34,000 miles), I paid 1,200 euros ($1,350) for the bike. It was sold as non-functioning, because it had been standing still for several years, the owner had vision problems, he hoped to solve them and so he kept the bike, then not being able to recover he decided to sell it. The bike had no problems when it was stopped, the problems are all inside the tank, the rotten petrol has caused disasters. In my spare time I will start to fix it, do a good service and all the necessary checks. I will share with you the progress of my work and I will undoubtedly need your help. I show you some photos of the bike and the disaster in the tank. I'd love to hear your opinions on the bike (and the disaster...)

This is all I could find https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/335488935382?_skw=vfr750+exhaust&itmmeta=01JTTS7MHJN7ETJC6EW7AVEPXJ&hash=item4e1cb2e5d6:g:LgkAAOSwD7dmllpw They had a couple of 89 bikes they broke, I’m not sure if this is correctly described

The shocks are quite short compared to other bikes, so you will likely need to find something specifically made for it. The 88/89 is the same length as the 87 (~280mm), and they are 10mm longer than the 86.

When I installed my SH847 10 years ago I also installed the EB headlight wiring kit to take that load off the stock harness. I recently got in there to do some other work, and discovered that a couple of my splices into the stator wiring were getting a bit crispy. Gonna re-wire that with 14G one piece end to end, and do some heat shielding in there 'cause I'm pretty convinced at this point a lot of these issues are related to radiant heat from the rear exhaust combined with too small wiring.