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Thanks terry will have a look tomorrow on the back end of the front head.

Hi there I've just got this as non runner it's been looked after new fuel pump plugs exhaust discs and pads bridgtone battle axe tyres all carbs been rebuilt with new original kits I found fuel cutoff relay faulty so bypassed that all ok new fuel filter but old one looks new tank is spotless fresh fuel pump pressure is good im not to kean on stripping carbs just going by the level of work previously done looks good as if he knew what he was doing no bodges but one minute runs lovely revs all ok next rides 👌 but misfires and cutoff any idea please I don't know were to consetrate on fuel or electrics I'm more used to two stokes raced cr 500 redrocket and huskies and maico I'm just not used to this Vfr750 and it's common faults

I have an old flat blade scew driver that I shaped the tip into a soft arc that I use as a grommet remover / installer. Get it started and then start going around and pushing thru, while holding/applying pressure to not lose what you got so far.. Doesn't tear or damage them. That particular style, thick and solid on both sides, is one of the tougher Honda grommets tho I will say.

Sunday spin whit a quiet regular stop a cafe along my favorite road Then it was like I been through a teleport But no, not on Dutch ground, just a spin thro town next to mine that has a wind mil Transalp is still doing great 👍

My clip ons, triple tree and master cylinders are looking a bit worse for wear. I'm looking to give them a refinish, does anyone know the paint code or matching paint colour for the metallic silver?

Finally getting moving on this..(I want to ride this bike!) Thermostat and hoses (clamps loose) Left Started.. Hiccup in the road.. bleah, gotta clean that.. The while I'm at it disease in full infection... (attack of the mello dude) Well, since the brakes are hanging there... Turns out doing the rear brake teardown was a good thing.. Fronts Side tip for the masses.. I had been wanting a low range torque wrench and tried a couple from Amazon. They were quite mediocre, returned them. Found this Tekton recently and its a little jewel. (10 to 150 in-lbs) Gives a good positive over center "click" when the torque setting is reached. Very good! Also have found Tekton tools to be very good. The wrench is little about 9 inch long. Very useful. Last thing for the day... some commiserating (help?) How do I get this frickn new grommet into the radiator? I have lubed it but struggle the shit outta it. (The FSM is comical, its says intsall new grommet. Oh really?Duh!) Cheers all

Temperature senders are normally screwed into the back side of the front head but in some models the sensor is connected to the thermostat housing; certainly that is the case with the VT250F which is of a similar vintage, and the NC30 looks the same so probably applies to your NC21. The manual for the NC30 says you can jump the cable for the thermosensor to earth and switch on the ignition and the gauge should jump up to "H", but not to do this test for more than 5 seconds. The thermoswitch on the radiator is there to start/stop the fan only. Over 100C this switch closes and completes the path to earth for the fan motor. You can test the motor function by jumpering the wire to earth (bypassing the switch) and the fan should run with ignition on.

I replaced my PIAA 60/55 watt Xenon gas Super White bulbs that glow in the 4200 Kelvin range with Speed Metal's 25 watt Cree LED H4 with a working high and low beam... At the time Speedmetal LED kits were $69 each at Cycle Gear... Out back the twin tail light bulbs are replaced with dual round circuit boards of LED... a plug and play system sourced at WSB Laguna Seca... RC45 LED Custom Tail Lights... Adapting the LED to center inside the existing housing requires some mild fabrication... Behold LED tail lights... Hit the stop lights and now you're really shinning.. in fact the intensity hurts the eye... Up grading to LED and you're riding so bright you gotta were shades...

Yep, just looked and they have 2 or 3 different ones for VFR400's. FREE download, no hassle. I've had plenty from there.

Tinternet, try carl salter free manuals, they have a truck load of bike manuals.

This just got published today. Expect this past spring to show up in about a year. 🙂 I don't think Thinwater is a member so I figured I'd share it.

It doesn't have to be "D" shaped to be the correct length. Just like a float bowl o-ring doesn't have to be pre-formed to the bowl shape.

So I just bought the bike and the temp gauge on cluster doesn't move, not good with electrical, where does the sensor sit so I can check it.I did find a sensor with a plug on that connects near the top of the radiator on tje left when sitting on the bike.

I'm looking for a service/ maintenance manual for my newly acquired 1986 vfr400r.

What I think is happening is folks Google this procedure and land on 8th Gen. But even in 8th Gen world there are conflicts in different manuals. Beit sidestand or center. Honda created that mess by offering the 2 models with 1 not having center stand. Agree with Terry though to check your specific manual.

D shape?.... Did I miss it on the Oring&more site?

I'm surprised you didn't order my equivalent when you ordered your others. I've installed 3 or 4 now.

The "while I'm at its" are on and I was looking for that weird D "O"-Ring for the water pump....... Looked on the parts fische, looked around and around.... "Where is that frickn part?" You would think a water pump part would be in the water pump fische.... but Noooooooooooo! Found it in left side cover, dammit.... Eff you to Honda.... While I'm at its continue, but starting to panic, summer is fast approaching, I want to ride this bike!

What wheels from what bikes would fit onto my 06 VFR having a hard time figuring it out

Right there in the owner's manual:

If you see *continuous* temps higher than 220ºF or below 180ºF then trouble shooting is in order: Continuous engine temps above 220ºF or 104ºC is also a problem and the proper order of items to trouble shoot are: 1)Faulty radiator cap... system should hold 1.1 pressure ratio... 2)Insufficient coolant... 3)Passages blocked in the radiator, hose or water jacket... 4)Air in the system... 5)Thermostat stuck closed... 6)Faulty temp meter or thermo sensor... 7)Faulty fan... 8)Faulty fan switch... Engine temps below 180ºF or 82ºC is an problem... it means that the moisture produced during combustion is not getting hot enough to evaporate out the pipe as steam... instead that moisture will migrate to the oil and produce a milky white contamination... Note normal by products of combustion is water... . Every gallon of gas creates roughly 8 pounds of water vapor... we all have witnessed water escaping out of tail pipes on cold mornings... The sequence of events to trouble shoot are: 1)Faulty temp meter... 2)Thermostat stuck open... 3)Faulty fan switch... (stuck on)

Going to do a chain adjustment on a 6th gen and see differing opinions on whether to do it on the center stand or the side stand. Any input on this? Any additional tips will be appreciated. Looked for a guide in the maintenance section but did not find any.

Thanks for your reply, Terry. We suspect that the thermostat might not be opening fully, and that’s why we're planning to remove it and test without it — just to be sure. The radiators checked out fine, so that's one thing off the list. For now, though, I have to wait for the workshop. Unfortunately, my timing couldn’t be worse — Greece is currently experiencing its first major heat wave, and everyone seems to be overheating… bikes, cars, people 😅 Hopefully by Monday, I’ll have a proper update!

I hear a small squeal, but it sounds like metal vibration to me. Also, you can "not-earplug" all you want...but that only ensures that you won't be able to hear anything (including your VFR) as you get older. Get the plugs, you can hear the engine and intake just fine with them.