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Thanks for the reply, sounds like it's a strip down job then. Any idea on best sequence for removing fairings? Only had the bike a couple of months so not had her apart yet

I generally go for Hiflo as (like you said) they are very similar to OEM (and a lot cheaper).

So... A confession, I really wanted to see what is most popular/recommended and get ideas since I overthink near everything on a bike teardown/refresh.... Exhibit 1. I use a BMC for about 15ish years, liked it, but recent teardown/removal it split... hmm, maybe pass this time? The "rim" I thought a pipercross might be interesting to try, bought one.... Bottom view Top The thing is it doesnt fit all that well, could be made to fit with some dremel work in the front radiuses.... Fooey! Install rating 5 out of 10.. (Maybe I was doing it wrong, but my patience is gone) Somebody mentioned High Flow, bought one of those... It's closest to OEM. It turned out to be a little bit warped front to back, but it will go together fine with a bit of finagling. Its ok, but still kinda fooey.....Install rating 8 out of 10. What did I do? Spin cycle brain me, buys another BMC! This one fits fairly well, but not as good as the 15 year old piece.... Original fit rating on 15 year old piece... 10 out of 10, drop in, fit perfect no hassle. Just like an OEM would. Fit rating of this new BMC.... 9 out of 10... On the right rear of the piece, I cleaned off some plastic flash on the seat, not much but it fit down much better than without. Still its a high quality part.. made in Italy. Very comparible to a K & N. So a thought.... I bet all these air filters fit 10 out of 10, when they were originally produced new, way back when. But over time, tools wear and now the parts are close but not OEM close. I'm sure the companies dont want to spend much for tool maintenace or even possibly the part may need a new tool... Cheers all

Looks to me like a grounding issue. Electrons will take the path of least resistance. Bad grounds can do weird things. Makes current flow through places it shouldn't.

I had this happen with my ST1300; no idea what happened, I am assuming I activated the heated grips while parked and they failed to auto-off as they should. I recharged the battery and all has been well ever since.

Hi all, I've got a 96 RC36-2 that has developed some electrical issues. Everything seems fine until I put the headlights on. Both dash indicator lights come on together and are solid, the clock turns off, dash illumination stops working and the high beam stays on and can't be dipped. If I use the indicators they work fine externally and flash the corresponding dash light(though the other side stays on and solid still). The bike has a built in volt meter that shows 14.5-14.6v with lights off and 13.5-13.6v with them on. If I turn the light switch off everything works as it should. Any ideas, Thanks Jay

It's a new bike to me. Love Has Reared It's Ugly Head. (Great song by Living Color...look it up) I think she looks great bathed in neon light and the rays of the dwindling sunset. Cheers

That is not normal. This never happened to my 5th gens, even sitting idle for a month or two. A good first step would be to ensure that there are no accessories connected to your VFR - heated grips, power socket, display, etc.

Thank Problem found there, thank you.

That is a good idea! Thanks for the suggestion!

Hey JAMurillo, let us know how you get on solving this problem.

I will put an Italy sticker on mine. Just to offend Suzuki and Ducati owners both!!

I have a question. Can one replace the rear pegs with a thing that protects the bike if it's dropped? (Can't remember the name of these things!)

Hey! How did you get to my new bike???? (insert laughing emoji here)

Hi All, As stated in the title, I'm hoping to sell these panniers. They are white, in excellent condition and very slightly scuffed. I'll send photos if needed. I believe these panniers are quite rare. Cheers

Yeah that could be it. I think I read in one of the many thread about this problem that it could be a bad solder. Some have mentioned things like signal bulbs, signal contacts, and the signal relay but all were ruled out as the problem.

And so you should, but then I am biased in favour of the Panda paint scheme.

🙄 Buddy....read what I wrote. I said twice that I have meticulously cleaned the switch...I have had it apart more than once. Where you getting "a few squirts of snake oil from" 🤦‍♂️ If it isn't "electrically clean enough to conduct current from the switch contacts to the loom contacts" then why does cleaning the switch immediately cause the problem to go away for a day or two before the problem returns? The point is that cleaning the switch isn't the solutuion because the switch being "gummed up" or dirty isn't the problem. Gummed up could be a general term but you actually specified "Factory Grease = gummed up." But there ain't no factory grease in there. Hasn't been in probably the 10 years + I have owned the bike. So I wouldn't be "putting your money on a gummed up bar switch"

Reddit said my 'karma' was 'too low' to be able to post this picture. Oh, no! LOL

OOOoooohhhh......I think you need a NSFW tag on this sort of Motorcycle Porn!! Deep Red...Gold Rims...be still my beating heart! I agree that this is the pinnacle. Is she for sale?😍

On my van I had a parasitic draw that removing all the fuses did nothing. I started disconnecting things and of course the last thing I disconnected was the starter which was the problem.

I do think the 6th gen has the best VFR styling and the white/black is a standout colour scheme, although I am partial to the deep red version of course.

I recall a Youtube video where parasitic drain was traced specifically to a failing regulator/rectifier.