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I did use some Chinese parts for my last 5th gen after a spill caused damage to the right side and nose cowl, plus the rear cowl. Unless something has changed, the moulds for the 5th gen use "compression" moulding, unlike later bikes where "injection" moulding is used. The latter is more likely to be more consistent. My parts (from Auctmarts) came perfectly well painted (nice gloss, no runs) and were a reasonable fit but took a small amount of effort to mount, and were indeed more fragile than OEM. The brackets where the chin cowl attached were glued on an had to be reglued by me, but for the price I was very happy. The only obvious bad join was between the side and upper fairing below the handlebar, but really not bad.

I always liked the wheels in silver on my red 99. I don't do winter maintenance because nature allows me to ride all year round here (but I do fit heated grips).

Good luck on all your work... you might review my thread on the thermostat/hoses/brake refresh... (still fooling with it, jeez I'm slow)

I'm looking for performance headers that are produced in the EU. What brand would it be? New or used.

After my 60km ride yesterday there was a little oil dripping from the plastic drive cover but nothing obvious on the wheel. Closer inspection showed wetness around the filler cap. When I popped this off, fluid drained out; the bike was on the sidestand this time so I assume my leak may be two-fold, slight overfilling and a leaking o-ring. I have let the liquid drain until it stopped, put in a new slightly thicker o-ring and will monitor what hapens next. At least I know I didn't lose all of my FD oil in the leak!

Yes. Perfect. That's what I was looking for. So you get rid of the factory grab handles I see as well. Boy that topcase really hangs completely off the rear of the bike, doesn't it. Sweet Fancy Moses...the size of that license plate! That thing as an air dam. Has to cut top speed by 8-10mph. Why so damn big? You could get the same number of digits on a US sized plate easily. All the cops have bad vision? You could read that thing from a plane!

Would these help? 2003 Vtec with OE luggage.

After a conversation with my shop he is not much over the cost of these after market plastics. He also told me those aftermarket ones are thin and don't handle heat well. I have found this place for near perfect OEM decals https://motor-stickers.com/honda-vfr-800-2000-1

Lots of plans for the VFR this winter. The frame that is broken will be addressed and fixed. The dealer that I bought it from is actually paying for that (darn, nice of them). I have a paint and body shop lined up for the new paint job and to repair some of the fairings that have been damaged. The wheels will be going out for powder coating. I’m going to go with black unless there is a better color suggested. Of course with the work being done on the wheels I will have to change the wheel bearings. There is some mechanical items that I would like to get sorted while the bike is naked. I need to check on the valves seeing I have 27,000 miles on it and I’m not sure if they have ever been looked at. The thermostat will be changed to free my mind from worrying about it next summer. I seem to have a high idle (2000 RPM) issue that I would like to get sorted out. Tried to adjust it the other day but it seemed like the screw drive was not making good contact with the idle screw… or operator error, but didn’t want to strip the screw. It will be easy to see what is going on when its naked. Spark plugs will be changed. I have no idea they have been replaced. If I’m able to get the right coils I will change the bike over to COP. Brake fluid will be changed as I have noticed some dark fluid and had to add fluid when the bike was delivered. The master cylinders need a good cleaning as well. Someone told me to look at the fuel pressure regulator. Does anyone see that as something that needs replacing, is it a weak link? The final piece that I need to replace is the regulator. That seems like a big job like the valves. What is everyone else's winter projects?

Well as I'm sadly having a bit health issues, I'm off work for a few weeks, still have energy to work on the bike's a few hours a day through. Yesterday I did pick up a kit of tools to take cabel ends out of sockets That to get the mountings clean as professional looking, I don't have matching sockets to match the orginal once to the meter, but the old looms handelbar switch cable sockets I have a pair of if I take the cable's out of them as the once off the orginal loom. One of the sockets was demanding so hade to make my own tool off a old screwdriver And then finally they are off I plan to first just connect whit out the sockets to see all is working, then plug the in. I did also mount the handelbar switches And if you look close you probably noticed the aftermarket headlights mounts are back, now whit holes drilled so lights are as close as orginal, reason for dumping the orginal is they are not straight, so headlight don't mount straight.

Enjoy 👏

I don't have the stock forks, completed CBR600F4i front was on the bike when I got it, but the F4i front wheel is substantially lighter than the VFR one. I've got the wheels off for tyres so will take some measurements of the wheel/axle dimensions.

Great news. Time to ride Terry.

Woohoo! I have successfully (and expensively) navigated the NZ Transport Authority's set of regulatory hurdles and achieved road-legal status. For any Kiwi's following in my footsteps I have had to pay NZ$520 for the entry compliance inspection (including creating a new vehicle file online) and then $710 to get the repair certification (because it was previously written-off), the repair certifier wanted photos from the auction house that sold it in 22 (another $46) and then I had to pay $357 to register and get the new plate, although that included 6 months registration. Best we don't add all that up. I shall celebrate with a decent ride on Saturday (it will probably rain). Yesterday I received a used cowl from (through?) Webike Japan, for the price and miscalculated cheap freight, I'm pretty happy. Earl is all one colour now! The cowl is not perfect but the level of scratches blends right in!

I got a couple in my gallery Probably just do random member gallery searches

I installed a Delkovic on the bike, but while I was working on it, I took the Staintune off my 5th gen to see what it would sound like and look like on the 8th gen. It isn't very high on the 8th gen, since the 2 generations differ wildly with regard to the tail design. Getting a good fit would require a completely different design on the connecting pipe. In reality, there *is* at least one custom exhaust fabricator on the island that works with stainless steel, but it would be very expensive and I'd no longer have a Staintune on my 5th gen.

Hello all, as it sez above am looking for suggestions for heated gloves; am willing to go battery powered as well. I ride all year (in CT), have heated grips, only gloves I’ve bought in the last four years were Joe Rocket 7 volts, two pairs and both pairs died way too quickly for different reasons. Additionally they weren’t as warm as the wired-in gloves I’ve had in the past. Thank you for any suggestions! David

Cutting up a Staintune seems pretty blasphemous.

I'll bite. I'm confused. The title is Delkevic (I love both of mine-high quality and low price) but this is about something else? Visual impact? Please explain. This does not look very high at all to me. It is hard to believe that any car shop couldn't make what you want. Are there car places on the island? The Staintunes do absolutely kill it on sound! Who cares about looks; just ride that sucker!

Better sell it to me then.

Ok, this is really not about the Delkovic pipe I put on my bike. I mean, it's a great sounding exhaust, but there are plenty of videos on YouTube for that. What this is about is what I was playing with prior to putting on the Delkovic: 20251018_171034.mp4 Sadly, the high mount Staintune from my 5th gen doesn't have the same visual impact as it does on its intended bike. Just as sad, there doesn't seem to be anyone on the island that handles custom exhaust fabrication. That said, it sounds awesome!

So...maybe I answered my own question. The diagram in the service manual shows the following (with some colour added by me); this is a plan view with the wheel axis vertical: The brake carrier that I removed (coloured grey) is the part that seals against the oil seal (just below the red coloured circlip); once it is removed, there is a way for the oil (yellow) to seep past through the bearings and into the cavity. So I think I should be draining the oil, removing the flange again, cleaning the area to get rid of any residual oil, then cleaning the and lubing seal lip with some silicone grease and then carefully sliding that back into the seal. Although not shown on the diagram, there is apparently an o-ring on the ring gear that mates with the inside of the brake carrier, which I will need to check as well.

So only 9 years since this thread was last updated. My 2015 (23000km) may need a new seal on the wheel hub. I did have the brake carrier off for painting, and noticed a bit of leakage from that area while the bike was apart although this appeared to stop after reassembly and I assumed it was maybe just a little fluid that had weeped past the seal over time. After my maiden 300km voyage yesterday, my back wheel looked just like the pictures from VFROr; splatter on the rim, accumulation on the plastic cover etc. I had filled the FD on the sidestand with the wheel elevated, and according to the book but being cheap, did not replace either the copper washer or o-ring. Due to the generous oily film, it was hard to tell if either of these was a culprit but I will change these out now. Has anyone had to replace the wheel axle seal before? I am hoping I can do this with the FD mounted to the swingarm but would appreciate any suggestions before I attempt this; it certainly appears to be inserted from the exterior and just held in place by a circlip.

I have used both clip and rivets on my chains, never had any problems in 49 years. I have a DID rivet tool that flares the rivet without being able to flare it to the point it kinks the chain, so I tend to use that. I will say a clip does make it easier to remove the chain when its service life is over though. A yes, Louis Motorrad, great motorcycle store. I did 2, 6 month stints in Kiel Germany in the late 2000's. The shipyard closed at noon on Fridays, so often I would tool over to the shop and hang around before heading back to the apartment. Good group of guys. Their in house brand of riding gear is surprisingly good, still wearing the leather riding pants and winter gloves I bought there 18-20 years ago.