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I will need a dip to cool down after this carry on. I have never had a duff battery in my life of bikes but I did have one fail about 15 years ago on aYamaha FZR1000 exup, The internal post had corroded and parted company with the plates. The annoying bit was, it was showing flipping battery volts on a static check. you couldn't write a book on it. Anyhow, Onwards and upwards as they say.

Hoping that someone has a 5th gen with a nonfango pannier rack that could advise me on fitting. I was lucky enough to find a used system and I have the rack 4 brackets and a handful of different sized nuts/bolts but am not completely sure how to fit correctly. Any help gratefully received. Many thanks. Peter

Makes you think that you never know what you're getting with a 'new' battery. Presumably there .ust gave been an internal short within the battery itself. I've had several that have failed after only a few months, but luckily in those cases the warranty stuck and happily I was able to find someone to help bump start so I could get the bike home. So it's not the bike that needs a swim then .....

FI code 23 ( 2 long blink, 3 short blink) reappears after clearing with o2 elimators. No 1 O2 sensor wire shorted due to insufficient routing and popped the main fuse (30 amp). Fuse replaced, wiring has been repaired and sensor passed all checks from the Honda manual, cleared codes but no luck. I've decided to remove the sensors and use o2 elimator plugs, cleared codes once again FI code 23 keeps coming back after bike has been started. Any ideas before I take it to the garage?

It may be far easier to purchase one of the Ducati hub conversion kits and use a Ducati spec 6" wheel. Lots of great options for Ducati OEM or aftermarket cast or forged wheels. 6" fits well, anything bigger I don't think would clear the swingarm.

Small update, but not really visually distinguishable. Another set of restored rims, new bearings, and new Michelin Power 2CT. It was nice doing it that way as the swap over was really quick. Had another rotor already installed for the rear, so I just had to swap over the front rotors. While the old tires still had tread, they were old. I had planned on using the old wheels/tires to shake down the upgrades and then swap over. Well, wow. The ride to work really highlighted how much nicer the new tires are with a proper profile and more supple rubber. Two buddies hanging out... "Pick me! Pick me!"

Well done, impressive!

OK, 2 days on, all charging items checked and double checked. I even had the loom tape undone to check the front end wiring, it's all intact and no fried or broken wires that I can see, So, there had to be sonmething a miss. I swopped the battery from the vfr750 albeit taller but it fitted in the pocket into the 800, wired the R/R terminals that I done to the 750 battery, You would not believe this but 14.6 volts INSTANTLY. I put the "NEW" Battery back into the 800 and F***k me, 12.4 volts!! So it looks like a duff battery. WHAT A PALAVER. I have sent the seller a message detailing the outcome and hope they have a warranty period on this battery. Her's hoping that's all it has been. or this bike WILL be going for swimming lessons.

captain80s, I wish the Aliens would come and beam this bike up and drop it in the ocean. The ocean might spit it back.

Morning mello dude, Would/should it make any difference if I have deleted the red/white wire on the POS battery cable and run a new soldered wire from the pos side of the start solenoid terminal (which comes straight from the battery anyway) to the new 30A fuse holder i have used to replace the fried one that was there. I mean, the full bike electrics are still being supplied from the new fuseholder. this is a doozy this one. There are no fried wires or hot spots that I can detect. I was thinking along the lines of Lambda sensors bing stuck on and still heating when they shouldnt be. ( if the bike has any). I had this with a few cars in the past. I am really at a loss. Could someone enlighten me on tightwad's VFRness?? Is it just the same as what I have done, The yellow earth plug mod and the Blue plug bypass then the wiring from stator/R/R direct to battery from R/R.?

Thanks airwalk, I have 2 separate meters, both read very close to each other and an old school annalogue meter which has the same readings as well. Every mod i have done to the wiring has been soldered and double checked. Honestly, This bike, and probably my 100th bike through the years, might well put me off bikes for good. Today,Thursday here in the UK, I am going to knock up some jump cables and put them over to my older VFR750 which is charging 14.6V, and see if the old bike will charge its battery from the 800 running straight from the R/R. Then swop jump cables from old vfr to 800 battery and see if the charge rate changes. i.e. drops to 12.** volts , that way I will know if the drain is in the components/wiring on the 800, the annoying thing is, the damn bike starts and runs a treat. all the electrics are spot on working. well maybe not the charging bit.

I don't think I even considered moving it. Maybe next time.

I wonder how Brembo designs their aftermarket rotors. You would think they would source a used one and use it as a template. I think the VFR laser cutter file got mixed up with another one. Somewhere someone has a VFR type rotor saying “What the heck”?

My son has a 2007 Honda VFR 800 RWB 25th anniversary edition. I also have the identical motorcycle. We took a trip this past week from Northern KY to Tennessee. We got about 120 miles into KY and his instrument cluster went out then bike surging and sputtering, then quit running altogether. Fortunately the county sheriff stopped and assisted. He had a voltmeter. The battery was completely dead. He took us to Auto Zone and we were able to get a new battery. Put this new one in. Cluster lights came on, bike started right away. Voltmeter showed about 14.3 volts. We only made it about 15 miles then the bike died again. Fortunately, our cousin was able to come and rescue us. We replaced stator and battery about 1.5 years ago. The bike probably had 500 miles put on it. This issue never should have occurred. Motorcycle has @ 40,000 miles on it. The bike is in TN still. After we retrieve it and diagnose problem, I will let you know what we found out. I do hate electrical problems. Thanks, Bill , aka MisterBill, 859-466-2174

We flashed the VFR with Sabsteef's new FW and all I can say after the first ride out is it made a huge improvement in the pulsing at low rpm in town driving, its also nice to have all the restrictions removed for the throttle and speed First and second gear are very impressive with the add to the mid range and top end without the restrictions in place. So this was the first ride out after the FW update and I'm very impressed so far, I'll be following up as I add mileage. Regards,

Spot check the starter solenoid circuit area.. Other than that, I'm at... I gotta be hands on, see it, touch it, smell it.. Best wishes.

Try volts @ terminals with another meter while existing meter is showing low, maybe you’re being fed false data for some reason, glitchy wiring to meter, meter itself, etc.

I'll probably just go back to stock halogen bulbs for now. Thanks for all the responses.

Oh my actual GOD, I swear I am throwing petrol on to this bike and setting fire to it unless I come up with a proper fix for NON charging. OK, lets start, previous post with bad earth, blue and yellow plugs all fixed and soldered. Shindengen MOD straight to the battery with fuse. (FH020 tested on my other bike worked perfect) NEW battery, NEW stator (tests all checked out ok) Heavier yellow cables to R/R, all the right stuff used. The other day I was out and the charging stopped again after 90 miles. was @ 14.2V running. volt meter dropped to 12.1 and dropping as I went. Rechecked everything and cant for the life of me see why this bike charging system is so much trouble. 30 amp fuse holder replaced also at the battery. Now this afternoon I disconnect the pos.and neg. wires from the R/R to the battery but leave the main battery terminals on. start the bike and check the voltage coming from R/R, 14.9 volts even at idle. (meter could be out slightly?) touch the wires back onto the battery and NO charge. I have undone all the loom where I soldered all the earths from the front end and all OK. What can be pulling the charge away from the battery?? I have in my lifetime, diagnosed and repaired V12 Jaguar and range rover vehicles, rebuilt countless automatic gearboxes. modified loads of cars and bikes. This has got me absolutely stumped. so far I have unplugged the headlamps in an attempt to find a discharge when the bike is running. The bike starts and runs a treat other than the charging issue. I even swopped batteries from a known good bike.

If you go back to halogen bulbs all-around you don't need any flasher relay other than what the bike came with. I don't know where that is located on a 6th gen, but according to the Haynes wiring diagram it is a 3-pin flasher relay connected to GND, the turn signal switch and fuse B (10A) in the main fuse box. Ah, actually I do know where it is (thanks to Haynes...) Ciao, JZH

Man, that bracket takes 30 seconds to remove. I can't imagine doing the valve check with it in place.

............................................. Adding Led's only adds to the heat stress the R&R is put under, less voltage consumed = more voltage shunted thru the R&R = more heat stress, that's why it's better for the charging system to always ride with headlights on dipped beam. Be aware most aftermarket Led flashers are nearly invisible in daylight, especially when fitted into a conventional incandescent unit, OEM Led flasher units usually have some kinda magnifying lens for the Led to shine thru.

Awesome. My first street bike was an '84 as well, but the blue version. I still have my second bike, an '86, as well as a VF500F Race Bike. And I have one (or two) more project 500 to build. Have fun and good luck!