joneill

From the pictures I don't see anything that needs replacement. Its hard to tell from the pictures but it looks like there is some minor glazing on the friction plates (first picture) that could be addresses with a light sanding with emery cloth. Check the shop manual, there are thickness limits for the friction plates, length limits for the springs and flatness limits or the steel clutch plates. If they are within limits I would address the glazing and put it back together. Also while your in there check the clutch slave cylinder operation and clutch rod straightness. Any "stickiness" in the clutch slave cylinder operation could contribute to the "lurch" in clutch engagement.

Hi Matty, Speed sensor is on the left side of the bike held on by two bolts. It is locate a couple inches aft of the lower cowl edge. The speed sensor fits over the head of the drive sprocket bolt. Since the sensor was operating, then erratic, I suspect it is not engaging the bolt head correctly. I've had luck pulling the speed sensor and inspecting the plastic socket that engages the Sprocket bolt head and if necessary moving it 1/8 to 1/4 inch on the sensor shaft so it engages the sprocket bolt head. Good write up with pictures here. https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/74-how-to-fix-a-jumpy-speedometer/

I have a 98 VFR and 99 VFR and have several friends with early (98, 99) 5th gen VFRs. The all seem to run well but have heavy exhaust smells. I think this is due to the lack of a catalytic converters to clean up the exhaust. The early 5th gens exhaust smell remind me of the cars of the 60's before cats. Next time you are are around other pre-cat 5th gen VFRs see if yours is comparable in terms of exhaust smell. If so, it is probable just the lack of catalytic converter in those years. If you are getting around 40-42mpg and the bike is running well its probably normal.

1998 VFR. Replaced clutch plates and friction discs and springs at 90K miles because clutch was starting to get a little grabby starting off in first gear . All springs and friction plates and springs measures in spec and identical to OEM replacements. I only replaced them because I have already purchased new parts. In hindsight I probably could have deglazed the friction discs and put the old ones back in and reused them. If the clutch is preforming well now, not slipping under load or excessively grabby I would not worry about it before your trip.

If the clutch is performing well, then no. If the clutch is grabby or slipping, then maybe. The Honda factory procedure would replace the parts if they are worn beyond the service limit. I replaced my clutch disks and plates in my 1998 VFR at 90K miles because I was getting some occasional slip under heavy acceleration. I ordered new clutch friction disks, clutch plates, springs and a clutch cover gasket. When I checked the original clutch plates, disks and springs they were within spec and measured exactly the same as the new Honda replacement parts. The service limits are in the Honda factory service manual. The only thing I noticed was the clutch disks after 90,000 miles look a little glazed. Since I had the new parts I put them in. In hindsight, I could have hit the clutch disks with an emery cloth to remove the glazing and been as good as new. All the original parts; clutch plates, clutch disks and springs measured exactly the same as the new replacement parts and within spec. There was virtually no measurable wear in 90K miles. Just a little glaze on the surface of the clutch disks. The clutch basked looked great also. No visible wear, just some dark discoloring where the clutch plates sit against the basket. I saved all my old parts and put them away as spares. Note the 1998-99 clutch is slightly different than he 2000-01 clutch. The 1998-99 clutch has one more pair of friction disk /clutch plates. Something to keep in mind when ordering a replacement clutch pack. I used all Honda OEM replacement parts ordered through Ron Ayers. www.ronayers.com

The website shows a model for the 2000, 2001 VFR. Use the part selector feature for year, make and model. The Website also claims that they can do a custom rewind of your existing stator.

I just installed one yesterday from Rick's Motorsports Electrics for $145. (https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/New-OEM-Style-Honda-Stator-21_121

1998 VFR 44-45 mpg on E0, ~40-42 mpg on E10, 87 octane, very consistent mpg for the last 70K miles. And yes they smell like they are running rich, sorta like a mid 60's muscle car🙂

Long thread on the suspension but worth a read..... Bottom line, measure the sag and change out the stock springs if necessary to get the spring rates right for your weight. After you do that you can fine tune with adjusting the shock damping.

I had posted these tips for inspecting a new VFR purchase previously but they might give you some ideas of what to look when buying a new motorcycle and all these can be done as part of a walk around with no tools except a volt meter and a flashlight. 1) I would check the charging voltage at idle and 5K RPM with the high beams on. It should be at least 13.8V or you have some charging issues. It is easy to do with a voltmeter, just remove the seat. Check the forum there are plenty of threads on charging issues on the VFR. 2) Obviously check tires, brakes, chain, brake and clutch fluid color. The fluids should be clear. If they look like tea or coffee they need to be replaced. Wear or replacements items are good negotiating points. 3) With the bike on the center stand, have someone push down on the rear and lift the front wheel off the ground. Turn the wheel left and right and feel for binding or a notch at dead center. This is a sign that the bike needs new head bearings. I have had to replace bearings at 20K miles on some VFRs. Check the fork seals – look for oil on the fork tubes. 4) Obviously, check the overall condition of the finish and look for missing or non OEM fasteners or new panels or missing decals. Look for scrapes on the end of the clutch and brake levers, bent shifter and brake foot levers, bar end weights, and on 5th gens look for a black block off plate on the underside of the fairing between the headlights. A missing plate or scrapes indicated a fall or accident. 5) Arrive when the bike is “cold”. It should start easily, idle well and be ridable without requiring any warm up. 6) Finally look in the tank for signs of rust – use a flashlight 7) Not to go to CSI on you – but bring a flash light when you inspect the bike. A good light will help with the inspection. 8) Make sure you get the factory tool kit. Most of the wrenches and screwdrivers are poor quality but you will need the chain adjusting tool and the shock adjusting tool. Ask for the owner’s manual. It doesn’t hurt to ask if the PO has a shop manual. He might throw that in as part of the deal. Oh, and get both keys. 9) Ask to see the title. I bring my gear and money. In my experience the only way to get a test ride is to show up with the purchase price in cash. You break it - you own it. I won't purchase a motorcycle without riding it first. As far as being concerned for my safety or the safety of my money, I arrange to meet at the seller's residence and not someplace shady like a gas station or parking lot. I don't go alone. You will need someone to drive the car back if you buy the motorcycle -right? Finally, go during daylight hours. Its easier to see what you are buying in daylight. Low light or interior lighting hide a lot of imperfection that show up when you get it home and see for the first time in the daylight.

My experience with Cycle Gear's Frogg Togg was different. My sons's Frogg Toggs failed miserably while my Firstgear Rainman suit performed well. The first gear pans started to leak after several years. Nothing beats a good GoreTex lined Jacket and Pants.

As I write this I am sitting in a rehab hospital recovering from brain surgery due to an infection and hoping to get to recover some of the use of my left side. We don’t, and will probably never know for sure the source of the infection. This is just one of life’s unlucky breaks. If you want to be a responsible parent and spouse, carry enough life insurance, health insurance and disability insurance to provide for your family. No one gets out of here alive. I think trying to predict whether it will be a motorcycle accident, drunk driver, freak accident, or an unexpected illness that takes you out is a distraction. Never miss a chance to say “I love you” hug your kids and do the things you love.

Welcome to one of the best MC forums around. I am in MA so give a shout out when you get the VFR and we can plan some rides together.

My son and i have been following these guys for a few years. The are now shipping motorcycles in production and rolling out a small dealer network. We took a trip down to the factory in Birmingham AL and received the royal treatment, tours, test rides etc. They even took us out to dinner. Lee Cohn and his guys are fantastic people. The hospitality was first rate and you can tell they all have great pride in their product....and no, i was not there to buy a motorcycle, they knew that. We were just fans of the product. The motorcycle is very different from the Japanese and German sport tourers. It has a character all of it's own and the V four has monster power and torque and it is a very unique riding experience. I think it may be one of those love it or hate it things - kinda like Harleys. The motorcycles are not cheap, they come fully optioned out with ohlins suspensions, Sargent seats, hard bags etc. It is one of those motorcycles you really have to ride to appreciate. I think their business plan is to be a small producer of several hundred to a thousand motorcycles a year. I think there market demographic will turn out to be older more experienced riders, with disposable income that want a touring motorcycle that is a different from the cookie cutter bikes on the market;; ST1300, Concours 14, FJR, BMW RT. Not to start a flame war but the Japanese bikes are all incredibly similar and I am not a fan of the BMW boxer. Disclosure - I have a C14. Being US made will appeal to some. I, for one, would like to a US motorcycle industry offering something other than cruiser style bikes - especially now that EBR is gone.

Thanks Marks152 - great write up