PlentyMech

Thanks all (and especially Grum for reaching out to me). I replaced the fuse holder with a new one and so far so good. Before the fuse would heat up at idle but now after a commute it's hardly warm to the touch so may have been dirty / corroded connections as mentioned causing the resistance.

Hi, I’ve now has two blown 30amp main fuses and a partially melted fuse holder on my last two runs. First one was about after 60 seconds and I had heated grips on full. I’ve had many rides previously with the grips on full with no issues. Second time was after a 35-minute commute home (no h. grips) with no issue but went out again about 10 mins after getting home and it blew again just out of the driveway. Only recent issues was I dropped the bike on the RHS a month or so ago but not ridden it since. I recently noticed the rear brake like was stuck on and played with the rear brake connections as it was on this side it fell and suspected that had caused it. Couldn’t get it to turn off until it seemed to by itself or one last rummage disconnected it. Now the brake light works but only from the front handlebar lever until I can get time to take the rear brake pedal off and check it out. Do you think the rear brake issue could be enough to causing a short that would take time to melt the 30A fuse? Thanks for any help.

Thanks for pointing that out. Not removing it initially is probably where it went wrong as wasn't aligned and then I go tighten the sprocket cover. Much easier to remove it as you say. Got a feeling the friction of it slipping was creating the heat as well as was cool as a cucumber after the same length test ride albeit it's not like Darwin here today. Pinch bolt fully tightened. Only thing slightly different this time was the tool I had available made hard work rounding the rivets on the master link but I measured them and the master link and compared to the other links and was fine. On the 2nd test ride I couldn't feel anything though. Will give it a few runs but think it's actually OK. Chain is a X.A.M AX. Something new but the dealer swore by them and at the time I was having issues tracking down a 525 15T front cog and chain without long lead times.

That was exactly it thank you! I'd have never pushed it up a bit as it looked fine and it didn't want to move willingly.

Hi, I just replaced my C&S on my Gen6 VFR (went to 15/43 525). No dramas but it did take a while to get the sprocket cover back on for some reason. Took it for a test run around the streets and the speedo is fluctuating when holding it at a steady speed. Uploaded a short video to demonstrate. It'll be 45kph then suddenly 35 then back again. I also noticed towards the end of the 10 min ride that there was a very slight feeling of drag and release if that makes sense when normally it would just be smooth, a bit like if you had an insane tight spot. When I checked the chain after it was pretty hot as was the sprocket cover and clutch slave mounted on it. I can't recall if this would be hot after a normal ride anyway. I've changed over 50 C&S over the years but this the first time on this bike. Chain also has a slight tight spot just after this ride which is unusual as normally it just requires a slight adjustment after the first good ride and tight spots come much much later after some use. Anyone has anything similar happen to them or just advise how hot your chain and sprocket cover is after a short ride? Thanks all.

Thanks Grum (and others) for the reply. I am actually ordering new chain and sprockets this week (any recommendations for Australian online shops welcomed otherwise looks like I'll order from Star Cycles). It did have quite a bit of play in it so I tightened it up. I've had an overly loose chain slip before on the rear sprockets on one of my gen 5 VFRs and know the sound and sensation, similar but this feels clutchy for want of a better term so I reckon its time to have that apart either at home or I may have to put it in to a shop depending on if I can do the CCTs myself. On that note, I'm looking at ordering these CCTs. Looks like they're suitable for my 2006 gen 6. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124940751972?epid=1515990914&hash=item1d170c9464:g:DzYAAOSwaeRZNrUH Finding it hard to tell which one is making the noise if not both but maybe it feels like the front is louder which is the harder of the 2 to replace but there's some good guides out there so looks doable.

Afternoon all, I’ll probably butcher this description but hopefully someone may recognise what the issue or issues could be. This has happened only about 7-8 times over 100s of rides but when pulling away from a standstill but after about 3-10 minutes of riding (never from starting off from cold), as I’m releasing the clutch and get to the biting point the bike suddenly gives a little shunt forward and I hear a grating noise just for half a second and the brief surge forward is enough to make me lurch backwards and instinctively snap the throttle shut which has led to a couple of hairy moments especially when pulling away and turning at the same time. When it happens it only happens once and hard as I try, I can’t get it to do it on command and have never had it happen once on the bike for over 10 minutes or so. Could this be something tied to the pull away assist feature or the clutch giving up? When I got the bike, I wasn’t aware of the pull away assist and the previous owner had aftermarket levers that I found didn’t engage the micro switch so I made up something and bonded it to the level so it would engage the switch and I know it’s working as can start the bike with it in gear and the clutch pulled in. Another issue or it may be related to the above problem is when the bike starts and the weathers warm, there is a knocking sound from the top of the cylinders. When its colder weather you hear it only when the idle speed reduces after the fast idle wax unit has done its job. I suspected it’s the cam chain tensioner/s needing to be replaced but interestingly the noise stops when I pull the clutch in and returns when let out and eventually stops altogether after the bike has warmed up further. I thought, maybe wrongly, if it were the CCTs I’d hear it all the time. Other things to mention, I noticed the air temperature is reading lower than it really is now (20C when it’s 25C for example), engine temp looks normal still. Bike has Micron silencers but that’s it. Any ideas or suggestions greatly appreciated and sorry for the long-winded description.

My gen 6 is starting to look and feel like a C&S freshen up is needed. Would anyone like to share any recommendations for resellers of chains and sprockets? Not stuck on any particular brand but usually found DiD pretty solid in the past. Probably going stock (16/43) but would be good if someone allows a mix and match. I'm in Australia btw (Sydney) Thanks in advance

Grum, have PMd you the sounds to see what you think? Cheers

The clutch epoxy trick worked fine, and I've not had a repeat of the revs reaching 4K when placed in first and maybe its phycological, but I do feel pulling away is a tiny bit smoother now. Thanks Grum for all your advice and hope it helps anyone else searching for the same issues. I have one last little niggle that I'll probably post details of in a new post but since you're batting a 100% success rate I may as well mention it now. When I start the bike from cold, it idles as normal for about 2-3 minutes then just as its starting to get bit warm I hear a rattling sound in and around the engine that’s not there before. Hard to describe but a bit like a slack chain sort of noise, not really loud but noticeable. It goes away when I pull the clutch in and returns when the clutch is let out (this is all whilst sitting still). The noise stops once the engine is fully warmed up. I can't remember if it had the noise when I bought it, but this may not be related but my son (the little git) dropped the bike on its RHS when trying to move it whilst we were away. I have foam tiles in the garage so lucky the fairing is OK (but a bit pushed in looking at the clearance between the tank and fairing compared to the other side, lost the mirror as expected and the foot peg and brake pedal are pointing up a little more than the other side. As said, unlikely this is related but I think I've only noticed the sound since then but again, I’ve not had it long so can’t be 100% but if I was pushed to say, I think its started since then. I know noise issues are notoriously difficult to troubleshoot over the web so I'm not expecting much but you never know, it may be a common thing. Thanks again

Bang on the money once again. The bike has trick aftermarket levers and the clutch one isn’t touching the clutch switch. I’ve built it up with some expoxy and currently waiting for it to harden to see if it does the trick. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nothing happens bar the lights switch off whilst the starter button is pressed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Grum, Sorry for the delay in replying. Re the blinkers, you were 100% right and thank you immensely for suggesting I forget what I was told by the PO. I hit the switch with copious amounts of WD-40 and its perfect now. I just didn't before as the previous owner said they'd done this and more. On the idle issue, I cannot start it in gear with the clutch pulled in and sidestand up so hmm. I'll test and clean the switches tomorrow but I don't think this is the issue at hand. The launch assist works as should do, it's when the bike is cold the issue occurs. The issue is that it raises the revs 2000rpm, not 250 when cold and put into first. This goes away relatively quickly once warmed. After this, it seems the expected 250rpm raise happens as expected.

Hi, I've recently bought a much loved Gen 6 VFR800 here down under in Sydney and am over the moon with it bar tow little issues. When I indicate it's really odd, some of the time it works as normal other times it either does nothing or flashes for a moment and I have to do it twice and/or hold the indicator out to the left or right to see it start. The seller warned me of this and said he'd had the switch all apart and cleaned. I've checked and cleaned all the bulbs and contacts. Oddly when the bike is sitting still the problem seems almost non existent. I thought it was speed or rev related at one stage which didn't make much sense but I couldn't get that theory proved. I've STW and seen a few similar cases and mostly its switch or bulb related but does anyone think this is relay related and if so if the only way to test it is buy buying a new relay? Whilst I'm here as this is my first Gen 6, I have another oddity in that when the bike is cold (its winter here at the moment but not *that cold (15C / 60F) when I start it idles at just over 2K until it warms up a bit then drops to about 1.5K (is this the wax unit at work?) anyway, when its idling at the 2K mark, if I engage first the revs jump up to 4K when sitting still with the clutch pulled in or out when on the road which is a tad concerning. It happens only a few times and then returns to normal in that it rises as few 100 when engaging first. Any ideas what I should be looking for with this issue? Thanks all for any advice. PM