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Another foggy memory thing, and could be wrong, but I think it's the voltage monitor wire. Some OEM R/Rs had it others didn't. With you new R/R rewire job, you can pretty much ignore it.(Assuming you're doing a proper job.)

If you bother pulling the forks apart....do the front end. Proper springs and valving. It will make all the difference in your riding experience and safety.

Dayton(Centerville) guy here, I know you will be busy with visiting your parents, but if you wanted to stop by, I'm up. If the bike needs something to complete the trip, we could take care of it here.

What do I think? How 'bout .....Wow!... Awesome job! ....Make one for me? (J/k)

What do people think of my tail box, the single item I am perhaps most proud of? It follows the lines of the bike as originally designed, not the boxy cowl the factory "hung" over the seat. With the pillion seat entirely removed, the internal capacity is somewhat increased, so I not only carry tools, but my wet weather gear as well. In fine weather I can carry small shopping purchases, snacks or whatever. The lid is front hinged, and the rear has a concealed cable operated latch, using the original lockable latch from the seat and a new extended cable. The whole box is mounted solid down on the bike frame with minimum 10 thou clearance all round from that very fragile tail Moulding. The whole thing is made in fiberglass, is completely weatherproof and no - I do not want to make another, there were too many hours spent building that one! Photo below shows it during the painting process and has the rider's seatback attached using the same screws that hold the lid hinge, fixed from inside the box A rubber seal (not shown) fits across the front, under the lid, diverting any possible water down to the sides where it can drain freely out along the side channels

I've got my 2001 on the lift to replace the fork seals and put my third rear tire of the season on, both a result of pegging the fun meter this year. While there I decided to have a look at replacing my regulator with a FH020AA. When I removed the rear cowl and had a look, I was surprised to see an extra black wire coming out of the oem Regulator, that transitioned into a white with black stripe at the otherside of the connector. Neither of these show up in the Clymers or Honda diagrams that I have. Below are pics of the connector and the diagrams I have. Everything looks to be oem. What is it for?

but sometimes I struggle to structure my own work clearly

Thanks for that - got it all pulled apart and she's now running sweet. A combination of a vacuum hose disconnected and the wax unit piston being seized. Next job is the fork seals....hopefully tackle that at the weekend

I like that idea. Too bad they are out of stock. I was looking for handles for 2 reasons mainly. To strap tail bag to and for something to grab onto when I put the bike on the center stand. I need to figure that one out. If it's able to be done on our bikes. If not I will go with engraving each side on the key so I would be back to one key. Of course this is if the dealer that I bought the lock set from is a bust. If anyone sees the link for how someone did rekeyed their tumbler on this forum please forward it to me. I have issue with trying to search anything on this site..... It never comes up correctly for me. Not sure I want to go with the keyless cap option yet. It most certainly is an option. You guys are really a wealth of knowledge. I appreciate all the help I'm getting. I imagine I will keep everyone busy for a while with this bike and my needs. 🙂

Keys are cut on both sides only for convenience. Only one side engages the tumblers. At the Honda shop we would have keys cut with each number on different sides when somebody had one component replaced vs buying a whole new lock set. ($$$$$) EDIT: Sorry FromMaine... repeat information!! Great tip! I will read previous posts better next time. Also, gas cap tumblers can be re-configured to match the other key you want. I have read a couple very cool posts about that in the last year. On here I think.

there's always the option of a keyless cap, not for everyone but it does solve the problem of "one key for everything". i only have one because my bike came with one but i personally don't mind it too much. also if you need grab handles but were looking for luggage mounts anyway, this is an option: https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/givi-257fz-top-case-support-brackets-honda-vfr800-1998-2001

Oil yes. Starting it periodically probably did a lot more harm than good by leaving moisture in the engine. And if they left fuel in it...you could be in for some fueling issues on your trip. Tires yes...unless they feel okay and look okay. They won't perform like new, but I've ridden on plenty of properly stored 10 year old tires without any issues. Brake/clutch fluid flushes...absolutely. Original battery? I'd be very curious to see how it were to hold up after a long but uneventful life so far! 🙂

It's simple to do. If it was needed and you didn't do it, that could end up being very costly, if not needed but you did it anyway, so what? JMHO

That's a great idea. I never thought you could do that with the key. At this time I placed an order for the part number of the lock set with a dealer online, we will see if they cancel the order. If not then I might end up with old new stock of a lock set. If they cancel I will pm you. I put a taller or touring windscreen on the bike yesterday. That seemed to keep the wind off of my body and right around the top of my helmet. I can see the screw problems are going plague me on this bike. I took the small screw out of the left side of windscreen and the right side screw collet came out of the plastic fairing. I'm worried to lose that small plastic that they screw holds there and never to be able to replace it....lol. I guess I will try a bigger collet for the screw to go into. The challenges of an older bike. On a positive note after today I will have over 200 miles on it and its first fill up of ethanol free gas. Can anyone tell what the idle rpms should be? I noticed I was sitting at 1600 to 1800.

I think reheating the solder from under the circuit would do the trick. Might be a dry solder that has lost contact.

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A fine gentleman going by the username "OldBruns" has agreed to sell me his 2014 VFR800 DLX that has a total of 1 mile on it. I'm flying in from Hawaii and, if I decide to buy it, will be riding from Middleton WI to Dayton OH, where I will visit my folks, then drive it over to Columbus OH to drop it off at the shipper's terminal. The trip will be over 500 miles, which will serve nicely to break in the bike. If you've seen his pictures in the Classifieds, the bike is clearly pristine and reportedly has been well-kept. The original owner bought it as part of his motorcycle collection. Both the current and the previous owner have started it up on a regular basis throughout the 11 years of its lifetime and have kept the bike on a battery tender. That said, I intend on replacing the battery prior to the road trip. I'm not too worried about the tires, as physical examination should be sufficient for any sign of rot. The big question: Should I replace the oil prior to the road trip? My inclination is that, like the tires, the oil should be in good shape. That said, I readily admit that there may be something that 11 years of running the engine on occasion might produce that I've not considered. What say the list?

Hi ggathagan, Thank you for your donation of 122.06 USD. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation. Thanks VFRDiscussion

fuel system sorted couldn't find a new fuel feed hose for a reasonable price so i made a new one out of braided -6 AN line. overkill? probably. and sourced a fresh tank. also shoutout to vortex, i emailed and asked if i could get a rebuild kit or a servicing for this old cap and they offered me 40% off a new one instead. good stuff. decided to reinstall some of the bodywork now that the tank's on, just to see how far it's come.... (and to free up shelf space) not tea bag. still amazed how well the plastidip turned out. (also worked great on the grab handles) anyway the fuel system was the last of the rusty bits, so i suppose that's a milestone. if i really wanted to, i could fire it up, but before that i'd like to address the charging system. ('01 stator doesn't plug into '99 r/r, and if i'm messing with it i'd rather just install a shindengen.) other than that, i've pretty much finished the labor intensive part of the project, so now it's onto the financially intensive part of the project.

That is what that link addresses PM me your email address and I'll send it to the administrator and get you on the board. Reading that thread will be helpful to you.

Rare wildlife shot, obviously likes damsons!

Welcome back and thanks for posting that pic of your gloriously restored '89!!

This is helpful. The box isn't serviceable, it appears glued closed, but I cracked it open and got the board out and it looks OK to the eye. However, I hooked it back up to the bike just to see if maybe something shook loose and it behaved as usual (cough but no start, no spark in front cylinders). I unhooked the board and I noticed that one side of it was really really hot. Way over what I assume would be normal operation temp. The other side was cool. In the pic I'm pointing to the hot spot. That's enough for me to spend the $300 on a new board. I was just looking for some indication that this could be the culprit. I'll reply here when the new one comes in, thanks! UPDATE: I tried to follow the link you posted but I couldn't register for that site. I didn't know the answers (two words for a magna, 3 letter nickname for a 1100 sabre, etc..). That site seems like it's hard to register for! But that gave me an idea. I know how to solder a board; what if I just swap out what I suspect it the bad transistor? That part is like $10. I'll try that first and let you know how it goes.

https://youtu.be/GwDOsD9TAuQ?feature=shared A video of a ride on my favorite road to my favorite Cafe....