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Yes, should be 30 amp

Looked at a different way; you apply X Newtons or pounds of force to the lever. This is then applied to the master piston which pressurises the brake line. The pressure generated is force divided by area (e.g. pounds per square inch or Newtons per square m = Pa) so the smaller the piston, the greater the line pressure generated for a given "squeeze'.

Is the lower fuse (near the battery) Main fuse 'B' ? That fuse on my bike is a 20amp and if it is 'B' this should be a 30amp?

hmm... My intuition is the opposite. Smaller diameter MC -> less fluid pushed into the line per angle of lever travel -> less braking force per angle of lever travel | Easy to pull lever Larger diameter MC -> more fluid pushed into the line per angle of lever travel -> more braking force per angle of lever travel | Hard to pull lever ___ Agreed on that last statement though. Managing master piston vs caliper piston area is the name of the game.

Thanks @Terry. I appreciate the insights.

What i found on mine was I had bought my 2010 DTC in 08/2024 with 8K miles on it, here's what I found, the stalling was caused by two separate issues, one was because the bike had set for a year plus, it's injectors were varnished up causing it to run on the lean side, it especially showed up at idle when cold and would die once after firing it up cold, second issue was the DCT needs to be calibrated occasionally and it was out of spec, what was happening was at low speed under 30mph it would go to change gears and it would stall, it would always fire right back up but was dangerous when in traffic, to solve the problem I did a calibration on the DTC and then ran a 12oz bottle of Techron complete fuel system cleaner through it, I took it out on the freeway and opened it up a couple of times to flush the injectors and haven't had an issue with it since, also with the calibration it smoothed out the shifts considerably. Regards, Kent

Yeah, I see the word "Lithium" on one of your previous photos so the battery is not stock. Nothing wrong with packing something under the battery to lift it and create some more tension on the battery strap. The rest of the wiring looks a lot like my 09 including the main fuse holder.

I remember the rubber strap holding the battery, however the battery in this bike is not OEM and is either shorter or I am missing a spacer that goes below the battery. There is not enough tension between on the rotating bracket to hold the rubber strap in place. I’ll have to lift the battery up and out to investigate. does anyone see anything of concern with the electrical wiring from the pictures I posted? I did finally go for a short 45 min ride today and when I got back I took the seat off and noticed that there was a lot of heat in that area. I assume that’s normal as I remember that from the previous bike.

Just for clarity and to avoid others making some brake errors, and assuming the brake callipers/piston count is unchanged: If you use a smaller diameter master cylinder you will end up with more force at the pads for a given force at the master, along with a slightly spongier feel and more grab at the brake disc. Conversely a larger diameter master makes for a more "wooden" feel and reduces the grab at the brake disc. Ultimately this is all about the hydraulic ratio, the ratio of the master piston area vs the total area of driven pistons.

I like both sites, they are cousins...simular but different. Lots of guys here are on both.

Rubber strap is from 6th Gen. Battery holder thingie like on photo.

Sadly, that's not even a forum record... Left exit Tyga? On a VFR750? Interesting. Ciao, JZH

only 8 years late!

Hi, I have a left exit tyga maxton rear shock Andriane front internals 8 spoke front brake upgrade. this allows existing tunes to be used to the max

I'm also having trouble similar to these. It died 3 times on a 20 mile trip. If I let it sit ten minutes,off it goes again. When it starts to die,I can feel it off a cylinder with a lot of popping in the exhaust then it gets worse until it eventually stops! I did a 140 mile round trip on Sunday on the bike with no issues and then yesterday,after only two miles,it stopped again! It definitely feels like a fuel starvation issue to me

The spare bit is definitely a mechanical speedo drive off some other (older) bike. The rubber strap looks like a battery retaining strap also off some other bike. For the LED flashing rate, buy a cheap LED flasher unit and replace the existing relay. I know the OEM flasher has three wires but any two-wire flasher will do; just look for one that has a compatible plug configuration.

Ha, hadn’t even noticed the other board. Google steered me to The One True VFR Site…

That's what I figured as well as I didn't see a resemblance to anything on the VFR.

Looks like a mechanical speedo drive? For some other bike.

got me stumped on that extra bit. Surely someone else knows what that's for...

First of all, I'd like to thank everyone who contributed to my first return post (https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/114018-what-to-look-for-before-purchase-2007-rwb-model/). I was a former owner of a 2007 VFR800 RWB back in 2010, however I ended up selling the bike due to lack of time and lack of use. I always regretted selling this bike. Fast forward 10 years, I started looking to get back into motorcycling and had my eyes set on a 2012 VFR1200F, however the week I was supposed to go out and get it, the seller (after telling me that he'll hold the bike) sold it to someone else, so that fell through unfortunately. I did end up scoring a 2013 FJR1300A in 2021 which has been an amazing bike so far. I also ended up getting a really good deal on a 2021 Africa Twin Adventure Sports back in 2023 which I have also enjoyed riding. Fast forward... still really missed the VFR and found one about 4 hours away. Went and looked at it and decided to pull the trigger. The bike has some cosmetic defects but mechanically, at least the little bit of riding I did, the bike seems really sound. Thanks for people on this forum, I was able to score an upper cowl to replace the one that has the most blemishes. The bike came with hard cases and one also has a scratch on it but I think I can handle that myself so I might try that. As far what came with the bike, the previous owner installed a Leo Vince exhaust, Power Commander V and dyno tuned it, along with LED headlights and turn signals, Sargent seat, shorty levers, bar risers. I'm not a fan of the LED turn signals as they are causing them to flash faster but it's ok for now. He also added yellow LED high beam lights which I think looks good. The PO also did replace the main fuse holder as the previous one was starting to get hot and melt (pictures below). As I am getting ready to go over this bike and make sure it's reliable and based on all the electrical gremlins that I've read about (thin wires/etc), what are some things I should check or do to make sure I don't burn up the electrical system as I am 8 hours away from home? There is also another item that was included in the parts bin but I have no idea what it is or if it's even from this bike. I've included pictures of that as well. UPDATE: Not a VFR part

Mice chewed through the power cables to about half the florescent lighting fixtures in my California garage. Then they hauled the severed cables off to their nest. I mean, seriously? I was able to jerry rig the lights back on, but they also got to the (live) socket wiring in the walls... Do not underestimate the furry little critters! Ciao, JZH

You do need a fixed bleed of some kind through the compression shim stack and that is what those little cutouts provide. If you calculate their total area they are probably similar to a 1-1.3mm diameter hole so they may as well stay.