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Ok, you just changed the oil, right? Now do a full bleed on the clutch hydraulic circuit and pull out the clutch cylinder push rod and give it a good polish. See if that improves things and go from there.

so i have a 1999 vfr 800 my bike is winerized for 8 months and i dont ride it much , but i love my bike and love when im on it . any way my clutch plates are sticking . i think from lack of use . but it just changed the oil and it is a little milky . I think it is from condensation on my cement floor an i havent changed the oil it two years since i dont put miles on it. Will condensation or milky oil cause the plates to stick , and a second question if i dont ride it much and it is in storage how can i prevent the plates from sticking ? any advice is welcome .

Never two without three. 🙃

I sent SW files and prints the other day. I use SolidWorks Maker at home, and Professional at work. The Maker version is only 49 bucks a year, and totally worth it, being an industrial standard. I make all of my 3D printed or machined parts at home using SW.

Well the Devil system I have, looks more like a 4-1 than a 4-2-1 Tock it off as doesn't allow to install a longer shock to raise the tail

Thanks to all have done this...

@SEBSPEED & @SteyrTMP : I have send Mike my draft conversion, so in case you don't want to burn your time. I work with FreeCAD and I warmly recommend it.

Ok Honda had to order the recalled harness… So I’m sure that will take 60 days or more. 😔 He said no one carries them in stock, they have to be ordered by VIN, not sure how true that is…

This is my fuel maps. First fuel map is originel setup 2023 Second map is originel pistons, deactive vtec, tunet cams and homemade exhaust 2024 and last map is 825cc, ported cylinder heads, deactive vtec, tunet cams and homemade exhaust 2025 The last map shows how much the fuel supply had to be increased.

You do realise this is a 15year old thread right !

Hi, I have a 2014 VFR800 and I’m looking for a rear rack, most likely to mount a GIVI top box. I’ve come across a few options online that are listed as compatible with the 2014 VFR800, but some of the same items are also listed as fitting different specific models — which makes things a bit confusing. Could you please advise on the correct rack for my bike and, if possible, provide the item code? Thanks in advance!

Look in here

I'd be looking at the electrics. Check the connections on the ignition coils and check the resistance values of the coils and ht leads. The values are in the maintenance manual.

So this morning I decided to sort out the stiff front end as the front brake feel. The front end stiffness was easy to sort as former owner seems to have added quit a bit air pressure to the fork! Taking it out did make the forks feel normal! Guess it's a thing I should have checked, but guess I forgot as my other RC24 has billet caps whit out a air valve 🤷 Then to the front brake feel. Some former owner has put brained brake lines But only the 2 lower The upper from the M/C is still orginal. As I changed to 2 long on other RC24 instead of the original like 3 setup, I have a spare set, so just take the upper from that set It was quite straight forward to change whit some care to not spill brake fluid on other parts As you see I did take the rubber that protect the banjo bolt, looks better I think, especially now as the upper brake lines is silver color and the lower are black, so this way you have to look deeper to notice that. And believe it or not, just by playing whit the level having the M/C in position so air can move up, I managed to bleed the system! Next I also had the level off for cleaning as new grease on all contact points Now the level action is smooth and feel firmer. Only test ride remaining to see how it works. Saturday morning well spent.

Oof, that’s a serious chunk of change—but man, those carbs are next level. If performance is your thing and budget allows, it’s tempting. Definitely not for the faint-hearted (or light-walleted) though.

I checked and I do not have a punch mark on the VIN tag. Also found the recall online and see my VIN is within the range for my 2005. I’ll call my Honda dealer Monday and will have to tow it in. NP. I also spent time today pulling off the fairings today and inspecting all the connectors and harnesses. The wiring overall looks good, all wires are dry and no damage found on most connectors and loom is clean. NOW what I did find had me all kinds of excited, but 10 minutes later, disappointed… I found this blue connector & the ground has been tampered with. Only one side is ground to the frame, the other side, as you will see in the pics, remains intact on the connector . Should that side be ground? I need help to know if the previous owner wired this right, I don’t think it’s correct. What had me excited was the ground wire that goes from the loom to the frame was actually broken! So I thought “bam” I found the issue! So I re-did the connector, cleaned the ground area, screwed it back on and no joy. Bike is 100% same. No fuel pump engaged. Can anyone advise on this connector? Should both ends be ground or should I cut the other side and splice/solder it together and bypass the connector all together? Thanks! https://youtu.be/BI6JUAZ_6Og?si=jGGZ_wdi3RBhZbCj

No it does not

So my chain flew off and ripped the rear brake lines up so im trying to change them out and i can not figure out how the batterey box comes out.. cant find any video or anything online so wondering if anyone has and info on that..i can get my hands all around it and under it and cant feel any bolts or anything.

I got it back together after some trials, dimmer switch goes back first, then passing switch is threaded back into its' hole and both are secured by the same screw. It wasn't too bad even with my fat fingers 😄

For sale: Aoocci C6 Series C6 Pro – Motorcycle CarPlay/AndroidAuto Screen This system is pretty much new and works great. I mounted it and ran it for about 150 miles, and decided it was not quite what I was looking for, it certainly could have been, what I really wanted to be able to display was a particular speedo app. However, Android auto would not allow a non-approve app to install. I simply could not find a work around and gave up. Every other aspect of it works great, google maps, camaras, tire pressure monitor, music, etc. I did cut/splice the power cable to shorten it up a bit, it’s only two +/- wires and is easy to change. If you want, you can also run it off the included USB-C cable instead. Memory card has been installed. It was purchased direct NIB at Aoocci.com There are tons of YouTube videos on this model, and if you wish, more info is available at: www.aoocci.com/collections/motorcycle-dash-cam $135.00 price includes free shipping (only shipping to lower US 48) PayPal only. Any questions, DM or email: hoghead@gmx.com Thanks for looking, Knute

Well I must say luck was on my side No fuel pooring today, fuel has swollen the O-rings so no leak anymore, great! The oil leak at clutch cover was gasket that had slipped off So just to relocate as tight back. Then the fairings was mounted, you gotta love new bolt's for them Then only one thing left, switch the rear wheel between my RC24's after the plastic was on Then to get a insurance as take it in road use and ride to petrol station for fuel as check air pressure (forgot that at home) And then to nice road's As a nice cafe Really enjoy the bike, some things to sort like fork over damped and front brake feel not the best but otherwise running like a champ! Some pictures from ride home from Cafe Really love this motorcycle

Well done, wiring/electrical issues are the most frustrating to diagnose/correct