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  1. Past hour
  2. Burger
    small update: new reg/rec from roadstercycle and a horn tried firing it but didn't quite manage before the battery died, going to let it charge and try again a few more times and then start troubleshooting if it still doesn't work.
  3. Today
  4. MBrane
    Good to see you got it sorted. Glad I could help. Happy riding!
  5. biehe
    biehe joined the community
  6. Terry
    I did exactly as Presson describes; turn the nut around and refit, use a piece of wood and give the axle a few good whacks with a big hammer. Others have resorted to pulling swingarm and putting the assembly in a hydraulic press to shift the axle.
  7. Terry
    I looked at your photo and thought, "that can't be right". Turns out that it is, I checked a photo of my VTR1000 sprockets (about 75000km) and it looked pretty much the same as yours, so where the chain is riding is correct. Chain/guide wear will manifest as a small misalignment between the crank and the cam timing. With the clutch cover removed, replacing the chains and guides looks to be straightforward if you went down that path, and the parts aren't too costly.
  8. captaincaveman
    i managed to fix, there was a break on the pcb earth track that wraps around speedo bulge/bump area, i soldered a wire direct to pcb tracks to bridge the fault( well basically that whole area). I also cleaned all screw contacts with emery paper and tooth brush and contact cleaner on dash connector block. All working correctly. Thanks for all your help it was very much appreciated
  9. keny
    Finally some progress Fitment not perfect and perhaps not best option power wise but sure good looking. Have to do something to these, side stand hits the exhaust, probably from wear as play in the side stand
  10. keny

    Anything goes!

    Images added to a gallery album owned by keny in Member's Gallery

    Other VFR and other pics....
  11. Presson
    Just for clarity: you have been able to un-stake the big axle nut and remove it together with the conical spring washer underneath the nut? You're now stuck at the side collar which won't budge and is keeping the driven sprocket carrier firmly fixed to the axle? If that's correct, it sounds like corrosion between the collar and axle. Penetrating oil and a whack on the axle end suitably protected by putting the nut on backwards and a lump of wood having first removed the rear caliper. A large puller? But be very careful on the sprocket carrier. Possibly a little bit of heat? Others may have ideas borne out of experience....
  12. krzywy86PL
    D5A252A7-F43C-4295-A854-0F35D466C7B0.jpeg
  13. krzywy86PL
    IMG_0849_jpg.jpeg
  14. krzywy86PL

    IMG_0581.jpeg

    krzywy86PL posted a gallery image in Member's Gallery

    IMG_0581.jpeg
  15. krzywy86PL
    Hello to everyone who loves their VFRs, and other motorcycles, because you probably have some in your garages too 😉. I hope someone has already experienced a situation like the one I'll describe. If not, all ideas are welcome 🫡. Let's get started. My mechanic and I have already attempted to service the rear wheel twice (disassembly, cleaning, and re-greasing the bearings). Unfortunately, we're having trouble removing the axle slide to disassemble everything. Looking through YouTube, everyone who services the rear wheel has no major problem removing this spacer the whole thing disassembles beautifully. We tried several methods and nothing. We'll be trying again soon, so it would be great to hear some new ideas. In the Honda catalog, when looking at the rear wheel, the spacer is marked number 11.Thanks for every idea and best regards 🤝😎
  16. krzywy86PL
    Hey, I don't know if this will still be helpful after all this time. I use Turtle Wax Red Line to clean my rims. I'm extremely happy with its performance; I haven't noticed any damage to the paint, even though it's a car product. Afterward, when the rims are dry, I spray them with Motorcycle Protect by Mac Off on a cloth, and they're beautiful and shiny. If you have the opportunity, check it out sometime, you'll be very pleased. Best regards. 🙂
  17. Presson
    Thanks Skids. The 8Gen brakes are quite powerful stock but I do think there was a substantial improvement in feel with the braided lines even though the bike had only 17k miles on it (albeit 7 yrs old). The other big advantage of braided lines to my mind is longevity.
  18. Skids
    22Nm is correct for 5th Gen too.
  19. Presson
    If you're still getting brake drag, it would be worth following MBrane's suggestion. It's easy. Just loosen the left hand axle pinch bolt, hold the brakes on and pump the forks up and down a few times. Then retighten the left pinch bolt. On 8 gens the pinch bolt should be tightened to 22Nm. It's probably the same for your 5gen but you can check in the manuals in the download section if you're not sure
  20. JontheVFRguy
    Hey there fellow VFR's! Im looking to replace my tail fairing as it was shattered in a bumpy mountain course. Sad to say that even after plastic welding everything back together it just doesnt feel right. If anyone knows where i can get one or is selling one that would be great. also on that note- has anyone attempted fairing swaps on these before? like from different hondas?
  21. Presson
    The method of keeping pressure on the brake lever overnight is usually successful. However, there are 2 potential air traps in the system as I'm sure you've seen. One where the feed to the left hand caliper crosses the fender to the right caliper. I take the left caliper off and move it to the RHS to bleed holding it up so any air migrates to the bleed nipple. The second is where the feed line to the front calipers comes up the forks and connects to the left hand flare joint at the headstock. The line can create a high point just before the flare joint depending on handlebar position. Holding the high point down while bleeding is usually enough to release any air bubbles. I've used a string to tie the line in position or a second set of hands.
  22. YosemiteVFR
    Installed new fuel drain hose, throttle body insulators & Napa Auto sourced radiator cap. I’m looking forward to road testing to verify cooling system performance. I’d been chasing down some elevated coolant temps and a situation where the radiator fan or air flow at speed wasn’t able to bring the coolant temp below the switch threshold to turn off the fan. After testing and verifying the properly functioning thermostat I’d installed a year ago (I was thinking it may not be opening all the way), I tested the OEM rad cap I’d installed, what I thought was a year or two ago, actually ended up being 4 years ago. I should have tested that first because I found the cap would slowly leak. Buttoned everything back up and logged heat cycle times to compare to an earlier test and it looks good. It was a good reminder to test/verify especially those things that were relatively recently replaced.
  23. Skids
    Nice job. I dont know how the 8th Gen brakes are as stock but there was a very noticeable improvement on my 01 when I fitted the braided lines.
  24. gropula
    Hi! Is my timing chain ready to be replaced? This is a 2002 with 94k km. The chain rides on top of the sprocket teeth. The markings show both cams are retarded. In the third pic the exhaust cam timing mark is below the cylinder head top. Same for the front head. Cams retarded, chain riding on top of the sprocket. Additionaly, I run rapid bike racing. It's able to advance ignition timing. It does that by advancing the reading of the crankshaft position sensor. If the rapid bike is connected I occasionally get a crankshaft position sensor error on the Fi light. If I disconnect the rapid bike the Fi light doesn't show the error. This leads me to believe that the chain stretch and rapid bike advace creates a big enough mismatch between the crank position sensor reading and the cam position sensor reading, thus throwing the error code. The ignition advace is up to +5 degrees in some parts of the map.
  25. vfrcapn

    '98 refresh

    Images added to a gallery album owned by vfrcapn in Member's Gallery

    '98 bike, ~53k miles (87k Kilometers - Canadian bike) 4th owner, originally imported to US from Vancouver, Canada. I purchased locally mid-2024. Thought it needed a little cleaning and a 27-year refresh with some spare parts I had around plus a few new ones. Nothing groundbreaking, just typical teardown and clean up. Still a little bit to do to finish it up. Came with the Penske shock. Valves checked and all in spec. New items: - Tbros full header and high mount pipe. Lightly polished the pipes and repacked the silencer. - AS3 radiator hoses - Cooling system o-rings, gaskets, thermostat, rad cap, overflow bottle - Valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, K&N air filter - COP conversion - Pair valve block off plates (VFRD mello dude's garage) - RC51 front end. New fork seals/bushings, steering bearings. Added CycleCat clip-ons. - RC front wheel powder coated to match rear w/ new wheel bearings - 1098S Marchesini forged rear wheel - Extreme Creations Ducati rear wheel conversion kit - Sprocket Specialties quick change rear, 525 chain & fr sprocket. 17/45 gearing - Rebuilt fr brake and clutch master. New braided brake lines f & r - BLS (VFRD) peg lowering blocks - New dash PCB (https://www.ebay.com/itm/305985541227). LED dash lights - NOS Honda gas tank, sourced from www.cmsnl.com, new fuel filters. (Original tank had lg dent and body shop estimates were outrageous) - NOS pillion cover from cmsnl.com. - Smoked fr turn signal lenses, aftermarket rear tail light - CF front fender - Emgo Y2K style mirrors - Wolf underseat exhaust
  26. AJ20
    AJ20 joined the community
  27. VFRscrub
    VFRscrub joined the community
  28. WGBgo
    WGBgo joined the community
  29. JAMurillo
    I finally rode today, I pressurized the front lever and I opened the master cylinder banjo bolt a tiny bit to bleed it from the top and it really helped. I'll wait for the banjo bolt with a bleeder to finally complete the fix.
  30. FromMaine
    Yeah, kinda "the Hood" choice of rotor palette presentation. But, I've had that paint sitting around for a while after buying it for a non motorcycle project. The paint I use on my rims takes about a week to cure, and well, idle hands and a desire to use the can before it's use by date.......... Honestly thought it would be a little less Mr. T after I installed them.😁
  31. Yesterday
  32. SgtMarbles
    Gotcha. I ordered a new battery, it’s currently a no-start even with the old battery so I am hoping that I will be able to get it to at least crank the starter motor with a fully charged battery.
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