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Here are the pictures with it next to the battery I pulled out of my 2000 VFR

I have same problem with 1998 vfr.Leak down test is ok.injectors tested flow but do not know what is Standart volume of fuel delivered per minute by what pressure and RPM.maybe oil is forced down in intake?it smokes badly

Those 2010 seats were designed poorly. The 2013 seat has more grip and should fit your bike easily. Change the brake fluid soon if you haven't. These bikes act oddly with old fluid sometimes.

Oh. I'm seeing now that the ones behind the front wheel are all the same. All 4 of them. Mine aren't. Looks like they all should be the ones with the plastic screw in them which I don't need a screwdriver for bc they never get tight.

Hey what are you guys using instead of the OEM 2 pushpin-like clips, located directly under the headlight (holding in the little black half-moon piece) as well as the 4 located along the inner cowl behind the front wheel? Or maybe you stuck with the OEM ones? Putting my body work back on tonight and these things have never really held well, especially the two with a plastic screw-like in the middle. Here's a couple pics so you can see what I mean. Wondering if there is a similar/far better alternative for all of these crappy things.

Your rear is fine. Just installed my 4th set of tires in the past 12 months., I too was wondering why the "gap" My initial thought was its an off the shelf part used on other bikes and the engineers signed off on its use. I have zero evidence this is the case though. Some pics.

They also have a "Dinner" You'll want to be sitting down if you crack one of those. 🙂

Your VTR looks fantastic. Glad that you are happy with all the changes. And, yes, I regret selling my VTR, too.

Yep.. good shout JZH. I did the soldering. Mine looks like a horror scene in comparison to yours. Those small wires just seemed to fall apart when attempting to remove the insulation Anyway, fired her up and the FI light is gone thankfully. The wires did still heat up.. its late right now and haven't time to inspect further. Ill go for a short spin tomorrow and see what happens!

Congrats & welcome!

"Lunch" 🤣

Done. 😁

Dude. Grab me one. We can have a lively talk with each other about cool Honda V4 Sport Bikes.

PSA Capt 80's is correct, l did get it wrong. Despite owning an 86 VF500F and having an 83 VF750F sitting in my garage. Think I'll grab a beer and have a quiet talk with myself. 😕

Yes! It's not a real problem in a mount up but is just a nice detail that makes things easier..

As all the ends arrive at the junction in the same direction, I just removed some insulation from all, cleaned up the surface verdigris on some, spread & intertwined them then soldered, been fine for years since.

Sorry, what I meant was that I had only crimped one side of the brass wire crimp when I took the photo. The brass crimp is longer than my crimp tool, so it required two "bites." I then crimped the rest of it and slipped the heat shrink over it. Solder also works, and that's exactly how I used to do it. Just make sure the area is sealed off from water. For this, adhesive-lined heat shrink is better than leccy tape, but it will probably be fine. Ciao, JZH

list of what I'm carrying (besides clothing) for this cross country riding. - Instead of a tool roll, Klein Tools #5189 soft/hardcase zipper thing. Lays flat in bottom of side case. In there are: ratchet, 8 - 14mm sockets, wrenches of said sizes, adjustable wrench, JIS 1/4 drive bit set and 1/4" bit driver, Leatherman style multi tool, a few zip ties and electrical tape, metric hex key set -NOCO GB40 jump pack -ROCGORLD R8 12V tire inflator. Also have SAE to female cigarette adapter so I can plug it to bike's battery tender lead. -ARI AirPlugger compact rope plug kit -ABUS disc lock screamer. More for my peace of mind than real security. -DOWCO Guardian Ultralite XL bike cover. Fully covers the ride, and deploy it at hotel stops. Again, peace of mind hoping most people will just leave alone what you aren't advertising. -wad of microfiber cloth and can of Honda spray polish (Bike Spirits would work the same) -heated jacket liner, heated glove liners, winter gloves, waterproof riding boots, frog toggs rain gear -I layer as needed, so mesh textile riding pants, leather/mesh Nomad Air jacket (Bilt), Alpinestars air vented low profile riding boots. -sunscreen, sunglasses, ballcap, 32oz stainless vacuum insulated water bottle thing. Usually load it with cold Gatorade Zero if I'm anticipating hot riding conditions -Anker 10,000mah battery bank with built in outlet prongs. They flip out and can plug right to any outlet. Good for topping off low phone charge maybe twice. Can throw it in a jacket pocket and plug to phone on mount if needed. -bike doesn't have anything special installed besides a Quad lock mount for the phone. -campsite fully contained in the drybag. Telescoping stool with pad at bottom (these are cheap all day on Amazon), super cheap Ozark trail tent from Wally world in a compression sack, blue Harbor Freight tarp (8x11???) to use as footprint for tent, tent poles and cleats tossed in dry bag, sleeping bag, blowup sleeping pad, blow up and stuff pillows, pack of DUDE WIPES. Can find these at Pilot/Flying J on the road. Laugh all you want, but indispensable if you plan on utilizing NPS s*** shacks. Kept at top of bag for quick access. 😅

So, it was a good suggestion from JZH to check the ground junction block! The advantage of crimping over soldering is that crimped connections are considered more reliable. But if you 'fixate' the soldered joint with heat shrinking tube (preferably with glue on the inside), I recon the soldered joint is just a reliable as a crimped one (since the copper wires just entering the solder cannot be bend).

So i finally inspected the ground junction block and discovered one side was melted.. (can't upload pictures for some reason) Im not convinced this is the cause of the problem but perhaps the result.. Anyway, ill try 8 and soldering the wires together and see what happens. Im not sure what this means by half crimped but ill figure it out! would it be terrible to attempt to solder the 4 wires together? so two lots of four... then eletrical tape or something of sorts. going to pop to the car part shop and see what i can find along the way.

Sorry for posting to such an old thread, but CBR929RR and CBR954RR have 3.45 bar for fuel pressure (and not 3.0 bar).

Yep all looks correct & that's why on my custom Ti front axle I had it reduced in length on the left side & a nice internal HEX added, looks much cleaner 🙂

I don't think the Grand Canyon or even Yosemite elicited the stunned reaction from me getting to an overlook. Death Valley may be my favorite NP. Followed GPS to Father Crowley overlook. Paved parking area off 190 looks over Star Wars canyon. Cool enough, but GPS showed a little road from the parking area to a Vista. I could see the gravel road venturing away from the parking area. There was a pretty significant drop off from the edge of the pavement to gravel that gave me pause about taking the bike down there. However, I saw a little section a little wider than a motorcycle tire that wasn't going to bring risk of striking the bottom of the bike and decided to risk it. Took it easy and got the Goldwing to the end. Had to work around sharp bedrock sticking from the gravel in spots and the final drop to the Vista had some deep ruts and loose gravel to contend with. Taking a VFR? Park at the overlook and hike out. This is the Vista. If you stand where that Valkyrie is, this is the view: Panorama mode can't do this justice. That is CA190 snaking it's way down. You can see it cross the valley and climb the mountains on the other side. Other motorcycle stuff that is paved: Badwater gets you to lowest point below sea level. Artist Loop is a 1 way circuit. Extremely tight turns through rocky hallways. Very unique experience. Of course, finale is to do the run up to Dante's Peak.

The tyre is mounted correctly to my eye; the arrow follows the direction of rotation (clockwise as seen from the right side). The axle looks normal to me as well. The other end will stick out about 5mm, there is a line scribed on mine that aligns with the fork surface. The axle is designed so the bolt causes it to pull hard against the right leg: the fat left part of the axle passes right through the left leg and pushes on the left distance collar which pushes on the left bearing which pushes on the centre spacer which pushes on the right bearing which pushes on the distance collar which butts up against the right leg. So the location of your wheel relative to the right leg is fixed and rigid. The left end is deliberately allowed a bit of freeplay until you tighten the axle clamp bolts. That allows the left leg to find its most "relaxed" location on the axle i.e. when the two legs are truly parallel, where there is the least binding. I make a point of bouncing forks before I do up the axle clamp bolts to allow the fork to find this location. I'm not fussed about the lack of a hex head in the axle; if you need to tighten or loosen the axle bolt, just leave the left clamp tight until the bolt is out.

Doing some reassembly and checking mount on the front axle... with the axle shoved "home" left to right...there is roughtly a 5mm space gap between the end of the axle and the fork... (rotor spacing is correct) .... is yours that way? Check photo... While I'm discussing the axle.... 2 cent rant on Honda... Hey Dorks, could you spend another 50 cents and put a hex in your VFR axle instead of the frickn screw driver hole? The Valk has a nice one, makes it easy to use a key and a breaker bar to hold it... Last question... dummy me didnt check tire mount directions on the rear wheel when I picked it up.. ...This guy is bassackwards -- correct? Thxz -Cheerz