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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/10/19 in all areas

  1. 7 points
  2. 4 points
    Out playing today. Was pissing down earlier in run hence waterproofs.
  3. 3 points
    Honda is not the only source for sound-dampened front sprockets these days. Ognibene definitely make them, and I think maybe someone like JT does as well... Yup! Ciao, JZH
  4. 3 points
  5. 3 points
    Since you have no idea how the chain was maintained, and unless the sprockets are severely worn, you won't be able to tell if the sprockets are going to ruin your new chain. Considering all that and a chain is lots more money that a couple sprockets, I'd bite the bullet and change out all three. Then you'll know where you're at drive train wise.
  6. 2 points
    My dad (Honda F6B), uncle (HD Electra Glide), and cousin (BMW R9T) returned last week from a 4 day trip from Ohio to Maggie Valley, NC. About 1500 miles round trip on my 31k mile 2001 5th gen (AMAZING bike). We rode the Tail of the Dragon (of course), visited Wheels Through Time museum, and rode the wheels off our bikes. Great trip, great roads, and a safe time had by all. Lots of highway time on the way back made me want to upgrade the ol' 5th gen with some helibars, taller screen, and a throttle lock though... Happy motoring! PS - you must eat at Butts on the Creek if you stay in Maggie Valley...we found it on the first night and ate there 3 times.
  7. 2 points
    My friend Makota San previous job was Chief Engineer Honda R&D who invented Honda's VTEC... he calls VTEC "his baby" and recalls his boss being super skeptical of the idea working at all... Owners have their doubts too even naming VTEC Vacillating Torque Engine Compartment... granted it worked on heavy cars but it's more of a unwanted bump in the powerband on a light bike... Makota San down on cannery row...
  8. 2 points
    Here are the PDF files. There are some duplicates because Honda has different instructions for the same parts in different countries. I think I grabbed most of them, but there might be some missing. REAR TRUNK 33L WAVE KEY 08L71-MJM-A00.pdfREAR CARRIER 08L73-MJM-D10.pdfSADDLEBAG SET 08L70-MJM-A10ZA 08L70-MJM-A10ZB.pdfREAR TIRE HUGGER 08F70-MJM-D10.pdfHANDLE ADJUST PLATE 08R70-MJM-D10.pdfTOP BOX 33L (WAVE KEY TYPE) 08L71-MJM-D00.pdfCARRIER BRACKET 45L 08L73-MJM-D10.pdfSECURITY ATTACHMENT 08E70-MJM-D00.pdfQUICK SHIFTER 08U70-MJM-D11.pdfTOP BOX 45L (WAVE KEY TYPE) 08L74-MJN-D10.pdf12V ACCESSORY SOCKET 08U70-MJM-D00.pdfHEATED GRIPS 08T70-MJM-A00.pdfHANDLEBAR RISER KIT 08R70-MJM-D10.pdfCENTERSTAND 08M70-MJM-D00.pdfREAR TRUNK BASE 33L 08L74-MJM-D10.pdf
  9. 2 points
    Great shot. When I lived on the east coast time off from work meant Skyline-->BRP-->Dragon-->Cherohala. The southern half of the BRP is particularly fun.
  10. 2 points
    ^^^^^. What he said. You can’t just go from two valve cross swirl to 4 valve without disrupting the induction pulses. Most Dyno charts show that dip in power at Vtec transition point.
  11. 2 points
    As others have already said, I like the "new header" enough that I'm willing to live with a little inconvenience. Here are pictures of my work to provide clearance for the header from the #4 cylinder. I imitated sfdownhill's solution to the problem, I used a heat gun to soften up the plastic so it could be re-formed with an outward bend that gives the #4 cylinder's header about the same amount of clearance as the #2 cylinder's header pipe. Installed on the bike you can see that I've managed to achieve the same amount of fairing-to-header pipe clearance on both the #4 and #2 headers. I happened to have some high temperature heat reflecting tape on hand so I added it to the work I did. I figured why not, regardless of whether the situation really needed this amount of protection Maybe I got a little carried away with the heat reflective taping...
  12. 1 point
    Hello you guys. Just got back into riding and with a new bike. Time to buy some parts right? Unfortunately I dumped all the old links to product pages. So any suggestions for reputable sellers? Quick searching seems to be showing a scarcer market by now. Might be a bit sleep deprived or just a clueless 'searcher' (forum search function doesn't bring up specifics) but, what are some websites (including ebay like listings) where they readily sell ss brake line, hose and LED kits? Exactly what type of LED light bulbs are needed for the head/brakes/indicators? The hoses and ss brake lines always turn up being for the VTEC. Seeing some brake lines and hose kits but have the prices always been $240-450? Since I live in poland, any price is multiplied by 3.8 times. Any headsup on links, former threads or anything would be appreciated. Shit talking about the question is fine too. Just want to be in the 'know' again πŸ™‚ Just got some powder coating done btw.
  13. 1 point
    So the point I was getting at is, to see what your charging system is really doing you should monitor it at the battery and you've just proven that. Looks like you are seeing some voltage drop through lead length, connectors etc for BOTH ground and positive, they all add up! Looking at the Fluke Meter readings at the Battery, it appears your charging system is good. Idle RPM needs to be 1200rpm, when engine up to temp.
  14. 1 point
    Out with the old, in with the new 😎 Easy if u have the right tools pan widget
  15. 1 point
    Hi Rollos. Hope they have it all sorted for you. But, if ever you see those heady height temperatures and the fan is not running. Swap the Fan Relay with the Headlight Relay, they are physically right next to each other. Good Luck. Cheers
  16. 1 point
    No problem here, ever on two VTEC VFR's. The argument that VTEC doesn't belong on bikes has gone on at least 8 million times now. It just doesn't matter any longer.... Adapt, adjust, and overcome.
  17. 1 point
    I'm willing to bet you're not giving enough throttle input. The less time your rev counter spends in the transition zone, the smoother it becomes. Change your shift points accordingly.
  18. 1 point
    Hi VFROZ. 8gen is very different. There is no temp switch on the radiator. The ECM sees coolant temp from the ECT sensor and sends a grounding output from the ECM to a Fan Relay to energise it. Cheers and Regards. Grum
  19. 1 point
    Hi Rollos. I'm still a little concerned for the Fan Relay. The tests you ran getting the engine excessively hot and the Fan did NOT come on is a concern. I just wonder wether the Relay is intermittent or developed high resistance contacts that could slow your fan down. Maybe with the replacement fan, the Relay could or should also be replaced on spec as well. Perhaps you could mention this to Honda. Just a thought! Good Luck and hope it's all sorted ASAP. Cheers.
  20. 1 point

    From the album: My 2001 VFR800

    After riding my bike a few weeks ago, my mate went out and bought himself a new 2016 Crossrunner. Another convert.
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point

    From the album: My 2001 VFR800

    Second attempt at getting a good picture here but still not happy.
  23. 1 point
    You don't know the age and state of the battery, it may be a simple issue of a dead battery, charge and load test it and once you can start your engine check your charging voltages. You may not need a new R/R yet!
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    Come by the house, I can put on a new set with 2019 date code Dunlop Roadsmart II in less than an hour.
  26. 1 point
    I just checked with my local Honda mc dealer at Honda Town Minneapolis (612-722-1110) and they can get fifth gen cowls. And they are willing to accept mail orders. I bought my first helmet from them in 1968; it is family owned and they have a mc racing background. I highly recommend them. And they have been able to get me any fifth gen part I've ever needed. Good luck and welcome back to the asylum. You obviously have great taste in mc's.
  27. 1 point
    THE CHOICE The choice is yours but I'd start plugging because there is mounting evidence that plugged tires work and are safe... I have yet to note anyone armed with first hand knowledge to the contrary... REPAIRS Minor tire repair is limited to an area of three quarters of the normal section width. The maximum diameter of penetration damage and/or cracking at the base of the injury should be no greater than 3mm. The repair patches must not overlap. For permanent repair,it is only recommended that small punctures restricted to the tread area be repaired, using a rope type plug. The current condition of a tire is important in determining whether a tire is suitable for repair. Some damage limits include: if the tire has reached its minimum tread depth as indicated by the TWI (tire wear indicator); ply separation, separation of inner liner and or cutting of ply cords by penetrating object; brittle or cracked rubber caused by exhaust heat; broken or bent bead wire, damaged bead zone; damage caused by under-inflation; softening or swelling of rubber due to oil or chemical attack; punctures too close together; damage or previous repair of a puncture outside of area specified for suitable repair. MY EXPERIENCES My screwed Rennsport... boo hoo... My plugged Rennsport that covered 2K miles and not in moderation either... it's seen over a 140 mph more than once... Inside the Rennsport for proof that the rope type plugs stay intact whereas my mushroom type plug started to come unstuck You can see by the diagram that Safety Seal plugs that are installed properly establish an mushroom shape inside the carcass that holds fast under pressure... you'd have more luck pushing the plug inside carcass than you'll ever have it pop out under pressure... I don't recommend the inside mushroom type plugs because they can become unstuck... Technically speaking the inside patch is solely dependent on a bond between a plug company's material and the tire manufacture's rubber compound... thats a crap shoot the two chemical compounds are compatible enough to hold a bond when the rubber is stationary and at room temperature... but tires are elastic bodies that flex from completely round to completely flat at every rotation... every rotation builds heat that works against that bond... every rotation flexes that mushroom patch from round to flat that works against that bond.... so we have heat coupled with flex working against the two competing chemical bonds from being as consistence as a self vulcanizing rope plug installed from the outside... Staying stuck and holding air is all you can ask for in a plug installed by the masses...
  28. 1 point
    Crazy Horse Monument in the background is looking good. But not nearly as good as your Fifth Gen! That is a fine example of the Best Generation VFR in the Fastest Color. Nice!
  29. 1 point
    Nice looking tarmac.....European money?
  30. 1 point
    14.6V highest recorded at about 7k rpm. It stabilized at that level around 3.5k as I recall, and then didn't really get any higher. Definitely regulating... πŸ™‚ I think I will connect it to the fuse block, and the 10a fuse off the ignition switch. Thanks for your help!
  31. 1 point
    I just took a box cutter to it and was done in 60 seconds, looks just fine and it's not like anyone will be looking there anyway lol Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
  32. 1 point
    You could always do this πŸ‘πŸ˜Ž Works a treat. Same both sides oem fan is long gone these are IP67 rated fans & the combined FPM is 50% more than the OEM fan & both suck air outwards through the rads. I have 90C thermal switch which resets at 80C. Works great. Plus if one fan dies there are 3 others still working. Just needs a little sculpting of the outlet vents where they cross the fan frames. This is not visible from outside. Have fun.
  33. 1 point
    I didn't want to cut away material. I gave some consideration to going the Dremel route but decided to keep all of the original strength that the fairing chin insert had. I just wasn't in the right mood to start cutting on things (in the past I've done a lot of Dremel modifications to motorcycles, but so far I haven't done any to either of my 5th Gens, maybe that was a factor in today's choice). My opinion on the Dremel vs. heat-bending situation is that neither solution will leave the chin insert "speed holes" looking as good as they did in their OEM profile. So definitely go with your personal preference. Either way the fairing chin insert isn't something I notice when I look at a VFR, it's pretty much out of view from almost any angle. And if someone does notice the bent area it'll give me the perfect opportunity to bore the pants off them by telling all about my totally bitchin' stainless steel performance exhaust system.
  34. 1 point
    And performance . . .
  35. 1 point
    LOL πŸ˜‚ Looking at the original in super magnify it would appear to be a fly on the fly.....
  36. 1 point
    I didn't test any wheels, BST the company that make them put them through the TUV acceptance tests as required to sell them in Europe, as do all other manufacturers. But the point was BST have enough faith in their product to use a single wheel for all seven tests. Where as every other manufacturer uses a single wheel per test, as they don't believe their wheels could survive all the tests ! Light does NOT mean weak, check the next plane you fly on, not alot of steel there. Any older 737/757/767 or 747 you fly on, I & some colleagues made the carbon material for our sister factory to make the floor panels that your seat is attached to & that you walk on to it. They have had millions of feet, thousands of flights/landings & are still going strong. Just because certain cycling parts are made a bit flimsy, does not mean all carbon parts are. BST wheels have a 400Kg weight rating ! https://intheknowcycling.com/2018/10/14/carbon-road-bike-wheels/ The other major difference, is that alloy or metal wheels have ZERO bend tolerance, so hitting a big pot hole or large rock, will dent them if the tyre deflects enough. A carbon rim has some structural flex in these extreme circumstances, so is less likely to permanently deform, plus being lighter, they experience less impact force to begin with & the suspension can deflect faster due to their reduce inertia. Bicycle rims, have basically NO tyre suspension, racing tyres are pumped to silly pressures, to reduce rolling resistance, which means most shock gets transmitted straight to the wheel rim, especially hard edges of pot holes for example. Motorcycle tyres have a good depth of tyre to absorb a lot of impact & are attached to suspension where as most road bicycles don't have suspension. I've dented a few steel & alloy bicycle rims in my life, plus a couple of motorcycle alloy ones too. But yes, feel free to use what suits you.
  37. 1 point
    The wheel colour in your photo has me reconsidering what to do the next time I repaint my VTec's wheels. It reminds me of the wheel colour on my '91 VFR750.
  38. 1 point
    I've always been partial to white, but bronze has seriously grown on me. Can't bring myself to powder coat these white so I'll snag a spare set to powder white and keep an extra set of tires mounted and balanced to swap between.
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point

    From the album: My 2001 VFR800

    Early morning coffe run.
  43. 1 point

    From the album: My 2001 VFR800

    Finished work early today and went for a self reboot.
  44. 1 point

    From the album: My 2001 VFR800

    Helping a damsel in distress 70km from the nearest town.
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    So shiny it looks wet. A really "the fastest color".
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