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Ok Lorne, you got me sucked into this topic. May 2006, my riding buddy Markus chatting it up as usual with another two-wheel enthusiast at about 4000 ft near Asheville on the BRP. 6th gens, my red and his silver. I've always really liked this photo.

Beautiful memories. There's something about how bikes can link us back to memories of places we've been and trips taken. Ten years ago I was stranded on the dock at Cherbourg, France, because the ferry I was catching home to Ireland (an 18 hour overnighter) had a radar problem. Eventually we were allowed to board but I had to leave my VFR quayside. They were basically only allowing us on to give us all a place to sleep for the night. They attempted to empty us out the following morning with promises of other ferries but a few of us hung on and explained that we were entitled to do so under EU law. There was no guarantee that an "alternative sailing" would actually take us and once you've left the boat you're on your own. Eventually made friends with many of the staff, got a tour of the ship, saw the bridge, got the VFR onboard and got home a day late. The poor French lad I'd helped out through this, on a nice Kawasaki ER6, had a day robbed from his tour of Ireland because of it but I managed to get him a cabin so he was comfy (until he got to Ireland where it pissed rain..poor guy). Photo below of the VFR fully-loaded dockside. The two Beemer guys disappeared the morning the ferry was emptied, think they chanced the "alternative sailings" thing. Actually the Larry David lookalike there was riding a Honda Silverwing maxiscoot! One more edit - I'm sitting here now with my baby daughter asleep in my arms and am married to the woman who I was traveling back and forth to France for. We've our own little home, a lovely little dog, and a shed where I can work on/admire my two VFRs. If you'd told me that was gonna happen 10 years ago when that picture was taken I'd have been astounded. Life moves fast.

May '93: Cherry blossoms at Beacon Hill park made a good backdrop for this shot of the new-to me '91 VFR750.

Oh darn 😉 Love the photo, really does look like the top o'the world. And going back another 20 years - long before Soichiro Honda dreamed of his first VFR - here I am with my '72 BSA Rocket Three.

Hi All. Just wondering if any of our American friends have heard from or know if Danno is ok. He's been an active member and a helpful clever guy, he had a strong passion for VFRD. Since May 2023 there's been nothing! Total silence, bit out of character for Danno. Lives in Mesa AZ. His last post was..... "Would be shame to have site go away. I've PMed Miguel and volunteered to keep this site going. Would need some training and help to get up to speed."

Hi Mello. Thanks for the info. Saw his name on the member list. I don't want to join the ST-owners forum, but if you're on it? Can you send him a PM, tell him to get back to the real forum! VFRD misses him. Cheers

If there is decent airflow through the radiator then the bike should sit at/near the thermostat opening point of 78-80C or 176F irrespective of the ambient temperature. When you get stuck in traffic (no air passing through the radiator) the temperature will rise to around 100 (212) and should cycle up/down as the fans switch on off. To get higher than that would suggest maybe the fans don't work or the thermostat is stuck. Let's assume the cooling system is full and the reservoir has a decent volume as well (you checked that, right?). If the radiator stays cold when the engine starts and then suddenly gets too hot to touch around 176, the thermostat probably works. If the radiator gently warms up as soon as the engine starts, the thermostat is probably jammed half-open. If the radiator never gets hot, the thermostat is probably jammed shut. Check the fan switches itself on around 212F and off a few degrees below that. Some have altered the fan wiring to put a manual bypass switch in place, so if you are going to get mired in traffic you can start the fan earlier.

Not sure if this has been posted on VFRD but long time VFR specialty product company Tyga Performance is now selling full RC30 conversion kits to suit 4th Gen VFR750. All bodywork, subframes, infill panels, exhaust system... the works. Even a replacement fuel tank. They look incredible and are literally plug and play. Bodywork Set 1, GRP, Painted RC30, RC36-2 RC30 Style, Street | TYGA-Performance The interest in this kit on the Facebook "RC/RVF Replica Group" is immense and a lot of bikes are going to be converted, so now's the time to grab a 4th Gen. Especially a cosmetically challenged one.

I wish the video had a skinny guy try to use it...

No shop anywhere near me would mount tires not bought from them, so they turned customers into DIY's. About 18 years ago I bought a Black Widow paddock tire changer and a HF balancer. The convenience factor became apparent immediately. I averaged 4-6 tires a year for myself and 6-12 for guys in the same position as me. I don't charge for it as motorcycles are my hobby, not a business. Also, it turned our to be a good way to meet the few sport/sport touring guys here in Mid Coast Maine.

The RC46 crank case & major assemblies are taken directly from the RC45 which in final race trim was putting out 195rwhp @ 14K/rpm. The only major parts difference was the pistons & Ti conrods & the crank+cams being timed differently. The big bang RC45 crank is timed at 0 degrees, such that it acts like a pair of V-twins joined together. And the 2mm shorter stroke allowed for the higher race RPM. That setup creates huge loads, the VFR's 180 degree crank is much kinder to the cases & bearings. Due to the total lack of RC45 crank case spares, race teams use 5th gen crank cases with the swingarm pivot ground off. They then bolt straight in to RC45 frame and all RC45 innards just drop in.

...I bought this lightly used 2 year old VFR750, and haven't been without a Honda since then; several VFRs and a handful of VTR1000F. I'd bought the bike late that afternoon, and being early March it was a dark, damp first ride to visit my folks. I'd love to have it back, and in that condition.

Rode a few bikes as a youngster, but didn't really start riding until '98. Oldest pic I have of me & the '87 ZX600 is from '05. First VFR was '09.

I can't quite match the vintage, but here we are in 1982, me and my mighty CB125T; two tiny pistons frantically going nowhere! 12000rpm redline! The T did not stand for torque however. This was my first motorcycle and started my love afair with Honda.

Just for a laugh!..... 1972 - Yikes, 52 years ago!! My beloved Honda SL100, absolutely had a hoot with this bike. Worked three paper delivery rounds per week to save up for it. I'd really give this bike a work out and never had a fault with it. That bike won me over forever with Honda's build quality, reliability and durability. My buddies little Honda Mini Trail was also bulletproof. ATGATT...only partially back then. Cheers

OK Lorne. I didn't go back far enough (the end of my digital photos is ~ a little over 20 yrs ago). However, here's an action photo of me about to drag my knee, wearing, obviously, ATGATT. I challenge all here at VFRD to name vehicle brand as well as engine. Cheers!

Oh greeze, man, id prefer to crash on a motorcycle........😏

I did it again, now I have a low km 1998 to keep the 2000 company. That's two in the garage now but is my 4th in total.

I know it made the rounds on the FB group. Like you, I figure it will be tough to find a 4th gen starting about now. May be a good idea to hang on to an unmolested one even.

I am the muttonhead in this (what should be) finale in the VFR saga. Looking at shock length and not bike ride height caused me many hours of headaches. Even I can't believe it. The next time that each shock is out I will measure to compare. For now, they both stay bolted in and as they are. Yellow VFR00 hot sag numbers came in perfect after some adjusting. Front is 24/34 and rear is 10/30. This is after a few changes to get rear ride height very close to VFR98, which I love. The yellow bike front forks are a touch (1.5mm) higher in the triples (front of bike is lower) and the rear is a touch higher (w/in 1.5mm) measured up from the axle...but close enough for a lackey. Simply everything feels better with the geometry changed. Braking. Seating. Pressure on arms. Mid corner direction changes. Everything. Patience paid off. I was ready to light it on fire...like I am with the ABS FJ1200 wheels/brakes that cost the earth. I rode both VFRs back to back today to verify/set hot sag. While they feel different because the components are different, they are both pretty excellent. Absolutely adequate for any kind of riding. I planned to be zippy in the mountains tomorrow, but all 7 buddies bailed, so I'll likely just roll around the lakes here, which is a 4-5 hour ride.

Well well. A Green/Blue wire! The wiring diagrams Are Correct. And you wonder why you've made me a "Grumpy Grum"......Should be as obvious as the correct Green/Blue wire I'm seeing for Temperature Input Not a "blue with gray dashes" and that it took three requests for you check it. As for those gray dashes you mention I have no idea what they are for. And why only now, you're admitting to having ordered a replacement ECT sometime back, after you stated on the other post (2000 VFR800 fuel pump no power) that you did the Service Manual tests and suspected it was faulty back then? 30.1 Ohms is Miles out of tolerance. You could have saved us all a hell of a lot of time wasting, sounds like another wild goose chase per the ECM saga, I'm convinced you knew about the blown ECM all along. And this - "BLUE 10P wire is blue with gray dashes good continuity." Question asked, continuity to What? You were looking at the Lb wire Light Blue - For the R/H Turn Indicator Light! And this - "item 8 You are incorrect the wire is not green/blue it is blue with gray dashes" Sorry not so! But correct if chasing a Turn Light fault. Seriously, trying to sort out your problems via a keybord 14,000km away is near impossible (well for me anyway) when your feedback has been confusing, with very little clear info, jumping off track, or not answering questions, it just makes the whole interaction messy, difficult to follow, and time wasting. As for the insult - "Grumpy Grum says he truly is the expert." I've never said that in my 67 years existence, I don't hold back or hide info from people and enjoy passing whatever helpful info I may have to help others, even You! I've worked with people who kept important, helpful info from others, a job security issue perhaps, that ain't me. But frankly I couldn't care less mate! Enough said, good luck with it all, guess you don't believe this, but I hope you get that bike up and running ASAP. This time I'm definitely done. Cheers

Electrical fault finding can be very frustrating particularly if ( like me) one is not that experienced at it. That's why many of us use the experts on this site. However, it is really important to follow the steps of advice exactly and report back findings on those steps as requested. That's also the better way to learn because the approach has logical structure. Missing out bits, giving half answers or introducing new stuff makes having the conversation frustrating or downright infuriating. We're all human and everyone offering help on here is genuinely interested in getting a fellow biker back on the road. But being frustrated by half answers will test anyone's patience eventually. I do hope you get this sorted. Cheers!

You can indeed just change the fronts and leave the rear with the original rubber lines. In fact getting at the connectors under the seat area for the rear brake lines on the 8 Gen is a royal pain in the arse. I did post about changing the fronts a little while back. I will try to find it for you.

I am no expert when it comes to electrical stuff but going back to first principles and from what I understand from Grum's detailed and patient advice: 1. There is one relevant wire that goes from the ECT to the instrument panel. It's shown as G/Bu in the diagrams. But the colour may have altered with heat/age. 2. A broken circuit in this wire or a faulty relevant track in the instrument panel will show up as a permanently flashing 270 temp reading. 3. Use of a non OEM or faulty ECT sensor could also cause the permanent 270 flashing reading. Based on the understanding in 1-3 above my approach would be: 4. Confirm which wire runs from the ECT through to the instrument panel relevant pin and check continuity throughout the run including cleaning any relevant intermediate connections. If colours have faded or changed this will need patient methodical checking and I'd recommend a written note of what you find at each connection. If continuity in this wire is good the problem will either be a faulty sensor or a corroded or dirty track in the instrument panel. 5. There is a fault finding test in the manual for the ECT - run that to confirm or eliminate a problem with the sensor 6. If it's not the sensor you will need to check the tracks inside the instrument panel - there are posts on this site of how to do that I hope I've understood this right. As a disclaimer, I have no experience of a 5th Gen and I have not read the 5 Gen manual- this is taken from the advice you've been offered. Good luck.

Hi Skids. That's a real bummer m8. I feel your pain! Yep that horrible point of no return, trying desperately to recover it or at least lay it down gracefully. I remember years ago doing damage to my leg femoral nerve by saving a topple over, the bike back upright without hitting the deck, but bloody hell, the resulting nerve damage was painful for weeks. You're definitely No "Muppet" m8, shit happens!. Given my weight at the moment I feel a little bit Miss Piggy ish! Hope you and the bike are mended ASAP. Take Care. Cheers.

Got a Rabaconda during last Black Friday sale along with a Harbor Freight wheel balancer. What used to take hours and multiple round trips to shop, now takes minutes in my garage. Easy to store, set up and use.

When you open the slave cylinder bleeder valve, does the clutch lever move freely and smoothly fully to the handle bar? If so, and you are able to bleed the system in a normal fashion, wouldn't that mean the problem is within the Slave cylinder or further forward to the lifter rod, clutch plate etc.? Check the slave piston moves freely and check the lifter rod for any signs of binding, give it a good smear of grease.

That's one good thing, the Kill Switch when activated does inhibit Cranking. "When kill switch is in the Off position the engine does not crank" - Sorry to be pedantic assume you Did have Ignition to ON when checking this? Very important - Ignition ON, Kill Switch OFF, press Starter Switch - Does engine Crank ? Absolutely completely wrong that either Kill OR Ignition Switch doesn't stop the engine. HISS cannot cause the condition you have. Crazy to think a dealership would say such a thing! - Questions - With the Engine Running. Then turn Off only the Ignition Switch (assume the engine continues to run). Do the Headlights go Off and the Instrument Panel go blank? - And with engine running, Sidestand Down, Clutch In shift to in Gear. Does the Engine immediately Stop as it should? As possibly part of the fault. I'd be checking to see if the Bank Angle Sensor has been bypassed. Meaning its unplugged and the Red/Yellow wire is jumpered to the Green wire. Or the Red/Yellow wire simply Grounded. I think the bottom line here is that the ESR is staying energised when it obviously shouldn't. Hopefully!! a few voltage checks might find out Why.

They are the Delkevic "X-oval" cans. I wanted something a little different than their round cans. They weren't listed as an application for the 6th Gen VFR on Delkevic's site, but most of their mufflers have the same inlet dimensions so I was going to mix/match parts. I then found the X-oval set as a VFR application on their eBay store. IMHO they do look a little better than the short round cans on the 6th Gen. They sound fantastic.

"Wheel weight to be used later."

Seems hot headed to me. Could be many things. Have you looked at anything yet? Low coolant and air in system are high on the list. Thermostat... possessed...

Saw Danno posted today on the ST-owners forum.... looks like he is busy working on getting a pilots license...

Never heard back, so I bought a new one, but while it was coming, i thought of another, easy fix. Here's what I did and it's been working for a few hundred miles so far. I simply backed off the two mounting bolts 1/2 turn (equal to 1/2 millimeter), then tightened them back down. This, in essence, allows the auto-spring-loaded adjuster to extend by 1/2 mm. And by tightening them at that extension, it places a very slight positive pressure on the tensioner, thus gently overriding the natural spring pressure.

Man that RWB paint scheme is the bomb. Nice job on the brackets. When I have my VTEC out on the road I usually just use one pannier. I'd considered getting some Delkevic cans for it so thanks for the info on clearance with the pannier mount!

This is standard procedure and how I learned it. However, I cannot convince my kids to do it this way. Good old times!

How I used to test a 9 volt battery

I did wonder if a degree of colour blindness might be at play here. That would certainly put a different colour on it; if you'll excuse the pun. Good luck 🤞

What is the colour of the wire at the back of this pin (Red arrow) of the 10P Blue Instrument Panel Plug? This is the Temperature input from the ECT sensor. But wait there's more! Incase you need to check further........... Mapped out the PCB tracks and connection point for LCD Temperature Display. Just follow the Yellow Brick Road highlighting, (ignore red arrows and comments lower part of picture.)

Glad to hear it wasn't a more serious injury. Even better that you'll have the Texas MotoGP to distract you.

Hi Presson. Assuming his wiring loom hasn't been swapped out, his version is the After 99 model having O2 sensors which are wired into the Gray connector. However the ECT sensor wire colors remain the same between the two versions. Far easier working with the earlier nice Hi Rez colorized drawing for 99% of fault finding, compared to the correct but Black and White after 1999 version. See attached, sorry no color version available. Gray connector is on the Right.

Ride for any length of time, and you will have a Muppet. If you ride and have not had one, rest assured, your Muppet Moment is coming. Wouldn't be to hard on your self. The bike sounds fine, obviously you planned well to have Givi bars for just such an occasion. The torn hamstring and you leaving in an ambulance is worrying though. I hope its not a bad as it sounds. Instinct is a hard thing to overcome. In 2007 I lost my bike in a left hand corner and stuck my foot down. Broke every bone in my ankle and dislocated my foot a bit more than 90 degrees. 3 surgeries and lots of Titanium got my foot pointing in the right direction, but the soft tissue injuries plague me to this day. Whatever the Dr. and Physical Therapist says to do, do it. I hope you have a speedy recovery mate.

Bad luck mate. A rather sore Muppet (your words not mine) I suspect. Lucky no major damage other than a slightly bent ego, but hey many of us have been there or just scraped through. I do recall that these V4s seem impossibly heavy once you've tipped beyond about 30 degrees. Hope the aches and pains ease quickly.

No local places will mount spoked wheels anymore. I ordered tires for my Sled from CycleGear 30 miles away with the plan of having them mount them. Two weeks for them to come in. I take the wheels off and show up to "the tire machine is down until at least next week." The kid gives me a card for a place another thirty minutes up the road. I call and then head that way thinking that I'll just get this over with. When I go to pick them up, I ask How much?. The kid looks at his partner who stumbles and then says $110. I pay them and head home. After fighting to get the rear on, I go to check the pressure and discover it is flat. I'm dropping the money for a Rabaconda. It's not just the money to be saved, it's also the hassle of people.

Tire mounting is a total rip off. Has been for a LONG time. You could try track day vendors. Prices may be the same or better and they usually mount for free if you buy from them.

Ok, the fuel pump is up and working!!! thanks to all

Don't it just? Thanks for sharing a great story.

I had the same problem and it also happened to 2 other nuts on the fuel pump housing. I got a professional welder to fix it. he did a great job for €50. He welded new bolt heads in, its been fine since with a new gasket & o-ring used on install. Its not something you want leaking.

I am using 2 maps which the previous owner of my kit (Arrow here on VFRD) had developed on a dyno in NL. I haven't done much other than turn off the engine braking and turn on the automatic tuning. I'd like to raise the rpm limit. Yaman wanted me to send him my unit for the update, and I didn't feel like taking the bike down for that.

Thanks for the replies guys.. I figured either these VFR1200 parts are rare and sought after, or not at all in demand as sales were so low in the US.. At very least I figure the plastics and OEM panniers (blue) will sell easily when the time comes. Sorry for the missing pics on the locost build links- that website has some challenges.. Here are a few youtube links that will work better (at least to show my older build, the Honda N600/ VFR800): The actual fabrication on the above car is in slideshow form below (not my videos): The 'other' VFR800 build is my ongoing 1959 Berkeley (my tiny British car seen below with 2 different bodies).. it is a work in progress.. If you search 'ccrunner,' some pics and videos will pop up here and there.. thanks for your interest.. I'm really enjoying the challenges combining both a car and a bike to make a fun project.