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I've been spending the winter scanning some of my old slides & negatives and this week I came across these two photos. First pic shows my 2nd VFR800 barely an hour after taking delivery back in Feb. 1999. It replaced my stolen red '98 and this time I opted for superfast yellow instead of yet another red bike. I'd had it fitted with a 3rd gen 8-spoke and both wheels painted a glossy pearl white. Beacon Hill park, in Victoria, is my goto spot for new bike pics. The 2nd pic shows my '91 VFR750 on it's final long ride, near Courthouse Towers in Arches NP, Utah.10 points
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Count me among those . . . swapped mine during the Covid lockdown in '20, was great to have something to do whilst stuck at home. Main things I can think of * 5th gen engine bolts right in to the 5th gen frame - no mods needed. * The "cushion" (Honda's term - I would call it "swing arm mount") that connects the swingarm to the engine is different - requires a 6th gen version to mount to the engine * Yes, the swingarms are slightly different * 5th gen uses remote coils with HT leads, 6 gen is 3 wire COP setup. This is the BIG thing to contend with in doing a swap. I retained COPs. Alternative is to source 5th gen harness and ECU and swap all that over. * 6th gen rads are larger, IIRC 2 additional rows * 5th gen cylinder heads are about 1 1/2" shorter - creates no issues * Shorter heads mean that the cam timing marks no longer appear through the inspection hole in the 6th gen frame (most people don't know why that hole is there). Makes valve adjustments more difficult. Suggest checking valves prior to doing swap * Despite cylinder head differences, throttle bodies are a direct swap * Hoses, thermostat, everything cooling system is interchangeable * If keeping 6th gen electronics, you WILL need a VTEC solenoid connected to the harness or you will get a no-start * 5th gen has a smaller alternator than 03 and up 6th gens. Currently swapping a 6th gen alternator over. * Despite all the similarities in the engine block, water pump, etc, 5 & 6 G alternator covers are different and do not interchange. * As mentioned above 4th through 6th gen gear ratios are different. The 5th gen is under-driven by 1 additional tooth, makes for about 200 rpm or so increase at 70 mph cruise. Barely noticeable. * Power output is indistinguishable. Honda did not add VTEC for power, torque or any other discernable butt-dyno reason. Maybe emissions, marketing, or who knows why. I don't miss it, and I do NOT miss the insanely difficult valve adjustments on the VTEC - the main reason I swapped it out. * Despite keeping 6th gen electronics, there is no VTEC "hit or kick" . There is a subtle change going through 6,800, but if no one knew about it, they would have no idea - nothing like it is stock. * Wheels and front rotors are interchangeable. * 6th gen brake system has 2 proportioning control valves vs 5th gen 1 - bleeding procedure is similar, but different. The linked brakes are plumbed differently between the 2. * 6th gen has available factory luggage * I have seen 6th gen tanks swapped to a 5th gen - doable but requires trimming the 5th gen bodywork in the front where it curves around the tank * 6th gen has available ABS. I've read that about 10% came with ABS, but I know of no documentation of that. On 1 occasion I was glad to have ABS, for me a good addition. * 5th gen has more room under the seat. That's probably more than anyone wants to hear. Owning both, I don't note much difference between them. And now, having one swapped, there's even less. If it weren't for ABS and the factory luggage for long-haul riding, I would probably stick with the 5th gen. However parts are getting harder to find for them, so I don't know how much longer they will be practical for daily or long trip riding. There are still times when I start the 6th gen that I just look at it and still can't get used to hearing that whine from the cams. For my $, that was the best engine Honda ever did or will make. I'm super happy with it.9 points
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7 points
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Hello! I'd like to introduce myself and my new (to me) 21,000 mile 1999 VFR! After riding vintage motorcycles for a while (1970 CB450K3 and 1969 CL350K1), I decided it was time to get a commuter that would be a little faster, more reliable, and most importantly.... FUEL INJECTED! After a lot of research and soul searching, I decided the VFR should fit my needs nicely. It's a substantial bump in HP, with a more comfortable riding position than a supersport, and it has that unique powerplant - apparently I have a thing for unusual valvetrains. Once I decided on a 5th gen VFR (it had to be fuel injected and it had to have that gear driven valvetrain), I waited until a clean one popped up for sale near me and pounced on it! A 1999 VFR in very nice condition, with all the OEM parts (muffler, signals, passenger pegs/grab handles) included, and just one problem - it doesn't charge the battery. Upon taking off the fairings, the reason why became quite obvious: Luckily, the stator and wiring seem to be good. No internal shorts when tested, 20V AC at idle and just over 50V when revved, even across all three legs. I just had to order a SH847 from Eastern Beaver with wiring kit and I should be ready in time for the season! So while I wait for that to ship, I've been cleaning, restoring it to OEM condition as best I can, and taking quick jaunts around town in an attempt to satiate my impatience. Thanks for the help - this forum was a great resource in diagnosing my charging issue and determining a course of action - and I hope to stick around!6 points
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I used a little MAF cleaner that I had on the shelf. Didn't take much. I suspect carb cleaner would have worked as well. Just a few light, quick sprays to remove the old lube that was on the contacts. I then added a little brake lube that was out since I did the rear brakes. Worked great. On the turn signals (and all of the plastics) I used Meguiar's Ultimate polish on a white foam pad with my dual action polisher. For small pieces like the turn signals it can be done by hand if you don't have a DA. Just clean the part, add a bit of polish to a clean microfiber, use circular motion with light pressure for maybe a minute. Wipe off when done to reveal the shine, repeat as needed. If you want to polish the tank and fairings, a machine polisher is the way to go. I was a bit surprised to find that the plastics on the bike are single stage paint (got some red paint transfer on the pad) and only the tank has clear coat. They did polish up nicely though. @Grum I tried some Autosol metal polish on the pipe and it worked very well. Thanks for the tip! The bike is basically put back together at this point. Just waiting for some clear weather for a shake down run and some outside pics. Cheers, Justin5 points
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Welcome to the forum, Johnnie! I've never done track days, but I rode a 6th gen. VFR for over 14 years for a great variety of uses - commuting, touring, sport-riding in the twisties, and even lazy Sunday fun rides for a few hours. In my opinion, the VFR's strength is its all-arounder-ness. It's capable enough to embarrass less experienced or talented riders in the corners, but if they're on newer liter bikes, they'll probably whiz right past you in the straights. But if you're only doing track days and not racing, I think you'd have a blast on a VFR on the track and on the street. The V4 engine is just a terrific blend of power and character, especially when revving it from mid to high rpms. The big plus for many VFR owners are its ergonomics. I can't imagine riding a supersport more than 30 minutes at a time, but on my old VFR I frequently did all-day rides and trips where I rode 400+ miles a day. It's a bike that will get you to the good mountain roads comfortably enough, rather than having to trailer it, so you can enjoy the ride to and from, not just in the twisties. VFRs are not light, but the others above are right - once you're moving the weight is a non-issue. And the additional heft does make it more stable, including in high winds. And as others said above, too, it will run forever. And the wealth of information on this forum is a huge plus to VFR ownership.4 points
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Welcome to VFRD Johnnie. The question you're asking is almost impossible to answer as it comes down to personal preferences and expectations. I think everyone on here is by definition a fan of the VFR line. I'll try to offer my perspective and I'm sure others will chip in. The VFR is a fantastically well designed and built machine and the 8 Gen you are thinking about includes a number of improvements on niggles from earlier versions. It handles very well in a neutral way and can easily walk tall among sportbikes on the road in the right hands. The VTEC transition is almost negligible now and in my mind gives you 2 engine characters in one machine; a softer response below 6500 for cruising about (and circa 60mpg), or a bit of a hooligan from 7000 up if you're going for it and plenty fast enough for the real world if you value your licence. Bags or torque and sublimely smooth. It is quite heavy compared to a GSXR or R1 but the weight disappears when moving. It's also a taller riding position than a superbike or supersport. This makes initiating turning a little bit more effort but it's also more stable - particularly noticeable when it's windy. The higher seat height also means you probably won't and don't need your knee on the floor with one cheek off the seat unless you're really pushing. So it really depends on your personal preference. If you want race style flickability and raging superbike acceleration in a light package that has you lying on the tank testing your knee and wrist joints on every ride, the VFR ain't it. On the other hand if you want a well mannered road bike that will get you where you want to go in comfort and then offer good scratching potential and fun on your favourite curves, the VFR fits the bill. If you can, try to ride before you buy.4 points
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3 points
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Hi all i am the new to me owner of a 2003 6th gen VFR800. I’ve previously owned an RC36 but now living in NZ I thought I would add the VFR to my collection to use as a commuter and sometime tourer. I brought it as a bit of a neglected machine, hadn’t been cleaned or properly looked after in years. Anyhow, 4 days of mechanical bits like CCTs, full servicing, bit of wiring and a damn good clean and polish she is on the road and riding lovely. A couple of little niggles that seem normal for this gen VFR for me to work through but what an awesome machine. It’s up there with mileage being at 163000 kms but seems sweet as a nut. Pic attached, all original panels with a few battle scars and micron end cans. Great to be in the forum and I’m sure I will be asking a few questions. cheers2 points
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I actually have 2 VFRs, a 5 Gen and a 6 Gen. I set them up slightly different and for two specific purposes. My 5 Gen is setup for sport/track riding and my 6 Gen for touring/commuting. When I first set them up, the first thing I concentrated on was suspension. For the 5 Gen, I went with a fully adjustable rear shock and added rebound adjusters to the forks. Again, this is for my sport riding intentions. Though I initially kept the rear passenger pegs for my wife, she didn’t care for riding on this bike. But for me, it is great on the track and on canyon roads. On the 6 Gen, more closely related to the 8 Gen 2014 model, I went with a more ergonomic approach and tailored the suspension to touring and commuting. There I added a remote preload adjustable shock, due to my varying cargo I might haul and the on and off my wife being a passenger. With the top case (with back rest) my wife finds it a lot more comfortable. The ergonomics part, I installed Heli-bars, which have a higher rise and more shift towards the rider. This along with a touring wind screen made the ride much more comfortable for me too. All that said, I’ve ridden both bikes at the track and on canyon roads and both are very capable in those situations. Once the suspension was upgraded, I turned my focused on other “performance” upgrades but with just the suspension upgrades, both bikes became much more enjoyable. I hope this was helpful. Cheers, D2 points
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One of the times I attended his school in Vegas was right at that time. He used it as his coaching bike. Watched him left hand throttle, knee down, reach under his left arm with his right hand and point at the apex. He said he also RAILED the new aluminum framed Goldwing and scared some of the journalists and Honda reps, 2 up.2 points
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Found it issue why other brake pad is angled bad. The plate in bottom of brake caliper has Ben modified badly This is how it should look Better Now brake pads are angeled good Also got the stripped tread for the plate that hold the pins fixed Now I just need to find the plate I should have, it order a new one.....2 points
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Just... WOW. Great job. Many VFRs just at the brink like that one don't get a comeback. The Honda Gods are smiling.2 points
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Hello again fellow Vifferini! Some of you may have read my long winded story here of getting back on a VFR after a 15 year absence from riding. I then posted the clean up thread here about that bike. Since purchase I have put about 10,000 miles on it having an absolute blast riding around the fine state of Utah, USA. The warm weather season is short but we do have a handful of excellent roads with endless scenery. The bike is set up just like my first VFR and it runs perfect. I couldn't be happier with it. Well, the plot thickens...which is to say I tracked down and bought back my original VFR. The one that I bought new in Northern California back in 2001. Yes, my actual exact bike, VIN #00089. Turns out the internet can be an interesting and effective tool. I actually got in touch with the owner a couple years ago but he wasn't ready to sell at that time. Finally, in recent weeks he let me know that he had upgraded and would sell it back to me, and at a very reasonable price. I was more than pleased, and my teenage son and I made plans to pick it up two states away in California. Not wanting to drag my small open trailer 1800 miles there and back, I wondered if a motorcycle would fit inside the wife's minivan. The Google machine quickly confirmed that I was not the first to consider this, as I found multiple pictures of various bikes shoehorned into spaces more commonly filled with soccer moms and soccer kids. That said, we had to test before the drive just to be sure. After some general measuring I figured that if we removed the windscreen and mirrors from my current VFR, we might be able to load it through the side door, which is exactly what we did. "Easy does it. Left a bit! Watch the ramp!" Success! Even got the doors to close with room to spare. Took it right back out and put it in the garage, neighbors shaking their heads, unsurprised at my usual shenanigans. So with that confirmed we made our way out to CA to pick up the original machine. Let me say this, one-on-one time with your kids is absolute gold. While going to get my old bike was cool, 20 plus hours in the car with my son was the real highlight of the trip. He's a fantastic kid and we had great time making new memories doing something that wouldn't make sense to most people. We arrived just after dark at the seller's home after a full day's drive. It was great to meet the gentleman and trade a few stories. I pointed out the small scratches on the clutch cover. "Yeah, that was me, trying to put it up on the center stand one day wearing flip flops and it slowly went over on it's side on the driveway. Not my first bonehead move." It was so cool to see that it still had every mod that I had installed more than 20 years prior, save the Sargent seat, but I'll just use the one from my other bike now. Looking over the bike further I noticed that he had the db killer installed on the Staintune, something I never used in my ownership. "Have you heard it without the db killer?" I asked, reaching for my set of Allen keys. "I didn't know you could remove it." he said. A few seconds later I had it out and fired up the bike inside his carport. Let it warm up for a bit and then gave it a few mild revs. "Whoa you can't have it now!!" he said jokingly, "I should have removed that a long time ago!" We both got a laugh. Every VFR guy has their favorite pipe, an uncorked Staintune is mine, though a period Micron is a close second. The Staintune look and sound just can't be matched. I removed the windscreen and mirrors, having done this exercise once before, and we loaded up the bike in the minivan. I strapped it down securely using the factory seat anchors and several ratchet straps. It was almost as if the van was made for this type of thing. We journeyed back home and put the bike in the garage, with some new memories and a new chapter to start. Seeing double, this looks familiar. The more recent left, modded to resemble the original, right. It even has my original plate on the back as plates stay with the vehicle in California. So what now? Get organized, make the punch list. Gotta go over everything to see that it is clean and up to spec. Fluids, charging system, brakes, etc, a nice winter project. The seller provided me with some receipts of maintenance he'd had done recently at a shop near his home. New plugs, valves checked (all in spec), new coolant and brake fluids. Mentioned an issue of stumbling in lower revs that the shop couldn't rectify. Also mentioned a slight coolant leak on the left side and a dent in the left radiator. Interesting but no worries, I have time to look over everything and make it right. When I sold the bike in 2006 it had 26,000 miles on it. Now it shows just 39,000 miles. I can live with that. In general it looks to be in decent shape still, just needing to be gone through a bit. I first removed the side fairings to have a look at things underneath. Hmmm...of the 18 or so fasteners I removed, only 3 were correct and all were finger tight or less. Luckily you can still order the correct ones from Honda. It's clearly been down on the left side at some point. The coolant leak is from an epoxy repair attempt at the bottom of the reservoir. Actually glad to see it's not from the engine casing as the reservoir is easy to replace. Odd repair though. The left rad is indeed dented on the bottom and the bracket bent slightly, though it is not leaking. It will work until I can get another one. When I removed the tail fairing some of the tool kit fell out of the left side, clanging onto the garage floor, and there is a small crack on the left of the tail fairing at the franken bolt insert. Yeah, it's definitely been down. But....(and it's a big but), whomever dropped it did put on an OEM side fairing so that's a win, and everything else I can deal with quite easily. I also took a chance to check voltage and saw 13.70ish at idle and a solid 14.44v at 4,000 rpm, right where it should be as far as I understand. I'll keep an eye on things once I start riding it later. I made a list and ordered a bunch of fasteners and a new coolant reservoir, OEM oil filters and fluids. Just going to take my time and enjoy it. More to come. Cheers, Justin1 point
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My sarcasm never seems to come through. If you can type notes here, Try typing similar in Google. 🙂1 point
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Well the brakes are not going to be the cause. Ever seen a bike with single front disc? More likely a worn tyre, maybe misaligned forks or perhaps you aren't sitting straight on the bike.1 point
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Justin...All I can say is c'est magnifique! Great job. I guess your son has a grin from ear to ear. Magic photos, beautiful scenery. Enjoy.1 point
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I haven't changed the oil & filter, but I will in the coming weeks - whether or not I decide to put it back on the road. Handily, the tank is near empty so I'll have to refill it as well. The battery was stored indoors, and kept on a battery tender. Cosmetics, hydraulics, electrical connections, and more are worth thinking about, too.1 point
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If the vtec was active all the time mho the engines wouldn't run on the bottom. Back when I had a job at a place called Transportation Research Center (a testing facility for Honda R&D North America) I got to take the vtecs apart post testing (the Japanese associates called this "zimbara") those engines used the hydraulic pin to activate a second follower on a more aggressive profile lobe on the cam.1 point
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In my learned opinion VTEC (Vacillating Torque Engine Compartment) was successful on heavy autos but it's been 50 / 50 when applied to lighter weight bikes because of the unwanted bump in the power ban...1 point
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Now hold on there, sonny. Us olds love to poke through all the gory details 😉1 point
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You're correct... Honda did used the RC45 tooling to make the engine for the 5th gen VFR 800... specifically adding bearing support structure to carry a swingarm pivot... My friend Makota San previous job was Chief Engineer Honda R&D who invented Honda's VTEC... he calls VTEC "his baby" and recalls his boss being super skeptical of the idea working at all... Makota San down on cannery row...1 point
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As mentioned above, download the manual here or get your hands on a hard copy. It's invaluable if you are a diy type. Once you pull the clutch cover, use a q-tip soaked in simple green or wd-40 to clean the metal shield and the inside of the sight glass. This is the fastest & easiest way I have found after doing hundreds of them. The sight glasses and shields do build up with grime after high mileage and/or infrequent maintenance.1 point
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Clutch cover removal is easy. Advise to have a replacement gasket. Instructions are in the repair manual available here for download.1 point
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Sorry Justin, can't honestly say and have never removed a cat from any of my VFR's, but seeing the O2 sensors are ahead of the cat and the cat has no active influence on the EFI system, and that its role is to reduce the toxicity of exhaust gasses, then I can't see how running without it would be a problem, other than to the enviromentally friendly people! Other owners who have removed their cat will offer better advice I'm sure.1 point
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The bike spent some time in a carport and the right side showed some fading from exposure to the elements. A light polish makes a difference in no time. That Italian Red pops nicely. Even with 39,000 miles the headlight cover cleaned up great. This piece was missing when I got the bike back. It's a bulb cover under the headlight assembly. No bulb on the US bikes but I wanted the cover in place regardless. Fuel tank cushions were also missing, now installed. Fairing bracket missing from the left side, now installed. Even got a new tool bag and rubber band. I noticed that the turn signal switch was sticky. Took it apart, cleaned and lubed inside. Now it moves freely as it should. All that remains now is to polish the windscreen, tail and side fairings, install and final wax. I ordered a taller windscreen that will be here soon, we'll see how well it works. I'm hoping it will direct the wind blast a bit higher. Also need to figure out how to polish some discoloration near the bottom of the Staintune pipe. I have a few metal polishes to try out. Getting closer to a real shakedown run. Cheers, Justin1 point
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Slowly making progress as parts come in. New hotness vs old and busted. Nice to be able to get an OEM part to replace the original with the failed epoxy repair. Now with Honda blue coolant, sorted! Honda oil and filter up next... Looking good. With new oil and coolant I started the bike and let it warm up, checking for leaks and luckily none were found. I also wanted to confirm that the cooling fan functioned correctly. I let the bike get up to 230* F and the fan did not kick on. After the bike cooled down I put it on the side stand and topped off the coolant level, then went to the manual. Per the manual the fan should kick on from 208*-216* F. So, following the manual I tested the fan motor by running a jumper from the fan motor switch connector to a ground with the key on. Fan motor works. Then I tested voltage, looks good. I thought I might need a new fan switch but decided to do a continuity test first. I put the switch in a vise and attached the leads from a multimeter. I then heated up the switch base with a propane torch. After a few seconds of heat, the multimeter confirmed continuity. I did this 3 times just to be sure. On the last one I listened to the switch as it cooled down, and heard the click. Reinstalled the switch and let the bike warm up again. This time the fan kicked on right at 219* F and off again at 206*F. I let that cycle 3 times before calling it good. Next up, rear brake pads. The fronts are fine but rears were getting low. There is a very good chance these are the rear pads I installed many years ago. (The damage on the left pad is from me using a flat screwdriver against the old pads to compress the pistons) Caliper cleaned, pins lubed, new pads installed and everything torqued to spec. Torqued the front calipers, axle bolt and fork pinch bolts. Found two caliper bolts that were slightly loose. Good to have peace of mind on these things. Next up, more polishing and more OEM parts to install. Added bonus, the weather is starting to warm up nicely! Cheers, Justin1 point
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You can order online from several sites in a similar format to the link below that use the Honda parts diagram. Would have to confirm shipping to Canada or find a place in country. https://www.hondaparts-direct.com/oempartfinder?aribrand=HOM&arian=motorcycle Item #15 here (part number stated by Bronco): https://www.hondaparts-direct.com/oempartfinder?aribrand=HOM&arian=motorcycle#/Honda_Powersports/VFR800FIA_(99)_INTERCEPTOR%2c_JPN%2c_VIN%23_JH2RC460-XM100001/LOWER_COWL/15f922e6-6adf-4b94-b64d-cb9c2c286344/d7bd4130-31ff-4f5d-8aa5-30848f8aaf71/y1 point
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Hey, welcome on board! The oil capacity for the 2002-2006 VFR 800 was 3.1 litres (I think). I'm fairly sure it's the same for 2006 onwards too. As for cleaning the oil sight glass - you can put the bike on it's sidestand, remove the clutch cover and clean the inside of the oil sight glass using some solvent, brake cleaner, electrical contact cleaner etc - if you do that I think you'll need a new clutch cover gasket when refitting. It's possible it's just moisture too and when the bike really warms up and you're out for a long spin that cloudiness will clear up.1 point
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Twelve and a half years ago I began to modify a CA-spec Y2k VFR800Fi: Today, under vastly different circumstances and with somewhat different goals I have begun to modify its UK cousin, a Pearl Tahitian blue '01 VFR800Fi. I actually haven't worked on or ridden bikes for several years, for various reasons which all sound like excuses now, but that ends today. It's a good place to start. I acquired this bike ca. 2016, with low miles and apparently no damage (we'll see about that...) Over the years, I also acquired a load of parts for it, such as: SP2 forks, SP1 front wheel, SP1 bottom yoke, 929 top triple clamp, Tommaselli adjustable clip-ons, 8-spoke rear wheel, SH847 reg/rec, GiVi and SW-Motech luggage, Nitron shock, VFRD headers, Harris hugger, 6th gen rear cushion bracket, Sato adjustable rearsets, 6th gen ABS rear caliper, windowed clutch cover, xenon projector headlights, etc. Sadly, no supercharger or custom underseat exhausts this time...for now. Where to begin... Mmmmm. I do love cleaning years-old chain spooge... Wish me luck! Ciao, JZH1 point
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Good job I machine polish paint cars and bikes.. A good wash may be sufficient for some, a good wax when required.1 point
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Hand-washing the inside of your fairings? Love the attention to detail! Lovely time reading through the initial post and will follow along. About the zipties, I just have a nice pair of side cutters and flush cut right to the housing. Always comes out damn near perfect with no stickout - never cut your hands again and it looks quite tidy!1 point
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I can tell you this...I leave many of my zip ties long these days if no one sees them. The short ones cut up your hands when you're working in tight spaces!1 point
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Thanks Grum. It is a fun and somewhat mysterious project so far. Today I began cleaning things up. Took the rest of the body work off to inspect and wash inside and out. The fairings came out nice. I will machine polish all of the plastics before they go back on. Always interesting to see factory markings on the inside of things. Found more evidence of the left side drop, the gauge cluster is cracked on the lower left mount. I just took it out and super glued it back together. Luckily just the housing was cracked that I can see. Everything else looks ok. Took the opportunity to put LEDs in the backlighting slots as done on my other bike. That needle indicated 155 mph exactly once with me at the helm, in Death Valley around 2002. Actual speed would have been somewhere in the 140s but it was all she had. Still faster than my buddies Ducati 900SS at the time. We were headed to Las Vegas for Ducati Revs America. Ironically, after doing some top speed runs out in the desert we both got pulled over just outside of Vegas for doing 20 over. Found two more missing fasteners, and a lonely zip tie in place of one. The excess wasn't even snipped off. What kind of neanderthal put this bike back together? lol Just taking my time, trying to make a difference... Chain and sprockets are recent so they can stay. Little by little. Cheers, Justin1 point
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A couple months back my bike looked like.... So I thought it would be a no brainer to remove the pair valve system...1 point
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@RC51 Nick, and @RobF -- hey thanks guys...1 point
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Now go button it up and go try it out.... No more Pop! Pop! Pop! Heh heh... I assume on a 6th gen or possible 8th, the job wouldnt be that much different.... Cheers all... For real, I sell the cover plates at $29.95 plus $7.00 shipping (US) --I make these... Perfect laser cut, deburred and hand finished by yours truly.. ..Stainless Steel socket bolts included.1 point
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Great post and your covers work great!!1 point