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NO FRICKIN' WAY! When a project hits a couple of the 'just one more week' cycles, it raises one's eyebrow a bit. But here is physical molecular evidence of the cause of giant ____-eating grins on the faces of 22 VFR owners: Rows of cylinders 1-2 merges alongside rows of cylinders 3-4 merges: And here is a set of production headers just the way we like our women...almost fully dressed:

Hi all, just wanted to give everyone an update. I finally got a lull in my work schedule and was able to get pricing and work with SFDownhill on all the costing numbers and options you have selected. On that vein, I will be sending out later today, PMs to all of you who have gave your deposit and shipping info with the information we have received. Ideally we have it all correct but that is where you will come in. Once you get the PM. please look over the info and make sure we got it right. As far as the headers go, we spoke with Wade yesterday and this morning, he anticipated being able to deliver the first batch by early next week, we have no reason to doubt that will happen, so we anticipate being able to pick them up and get those that will have passivization done dropped off shortly after we take possession. I'm sure everyone is chomping at the bit as much as we are, all I can say is the last mile is the longest mile! Hard to believe this has come to fruition, let alone almost here! Cheers, D

Took some pictures...

Having tried four different types of 42mm crush gaskets, we found the best option is 42mm copper crush gaskets from Delkevic (pictured in a couple places on this thread). The 42mm gaskets are not on Delk’s website and they do not sell them on ebay. I only learned of them because I was on the phone with Matt at Delk to order the 41mm gaskets they recommend for VFR800s (Hoping the 41mm gaskets would crush to a functional size) and Matt said they have and sell 42mm gaskets. The 42mm gaskets from Delk have a skinny, round cross section and crush to a perfect id that is larger than the VFR’s exhaust port. The Delk gaskets have a seam on one side - we put the seam side down, toward the head, to give the header’s collar a cleaner surface to press against. They create a good seal. All the other 42mm gaskets we tried were too big to fit into the head’s sleeve - where the headers seat - without grinding and/or cutting. I’m editing out reams of trial and error, grinding, cutting, splicing, and cursing data. Even the Delk washers are difficult to get started into the sleeve, but because they are so thin, they can be persuaded past the lip of the sleeve. After starting the gaskets in by hand, the headers do the rest of the job of escorting the gaskets into their final resting place, then crushing them. It’s a lovely kind of slow-paced violence.

Where abouts are you in Oz? Anywhere near Maroubra, Sydney as I am happy to come round and assist you in fixing the issue.

A very pleasant few days of late tempted me to reinsure my VTec this afternoon. Met with some friends to view a video of their ride last summer. Stopped for a portrait at Beacon Hill Park, looking across Juan de Fuca Straight to Port Angeles, Wash., and the mountains of Olympic National Park. The 90 minute ferry ride there from my home in Victoria is very familiar as it makes the first step of almost every summer trip.

Search is over. I found one for me. First, "Rote Sau" would literaly be something like Red sow, like a big female pig, or even a swine, but it has some deeper meaning for me. I like Mercedes and "Rote Sau" is a nickname for a very successful model from a Mercedes racing history. I find it somehow ok, it suits her good. Sixth generation, 2005. with 56000 kilometers, Hondas original cases and very nice service history. Tires are from last season, same.as battery, chain set from DID is one thousand kilometers old. It was changed togwther with valve adjustment. Front fork is also serviced and all that I have to do is to change all liquids. Not that I need to but because I want to. Just to be sure. And check if the chain sits nice. Everything else is pretty much unchanged serial bike. And the most important thing, I like her.

Just an FYI I have removed, and reinstalled the center stand on a 5th gen without removing the headers. It takes a bit of prying, and cursing but it's doable. Fortunately I have separate work, and play bikes now so don't have to do that again.

Although most here on the forum wouldn't think So Cal being a place for wet weather/waterproof gear, this winter we had an enormously rainy season, we even had some snow at elevations as low as 3000 ft.! Anyway, to say the least, I was in search of waterproof gear and/or reconditioning the gear I had. As most would probably have assumed, Goretex is considered to be the gold standard for keeping dry but I found the info in this video to be very surprising. Even though our heavy rain seems to have subsided, we are still getting the occasional shower, we even had hail last Wednesday, I think this info is still useful for those not quite of of the woods just yet.

FREE BEER! The turbo beer wagon won't be back but the beer will still be there. Registration for the event gets you FREE BEER (post ride) everyday. This concludes today's plug for the Spring Memorial Ride.

Its possible you boiled your brake fluid because it was contaminated with moisture and your new pads generated excessive heat... Understanding Brake fluid DOT 3 DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 are Glycol based brake fluids whereas DOT 5 are Silicone based... Glycol based fluids are designed to signal moisture contamination by changing color... the fluid will start to turn golden, then light brown, then dark brown indicating that it has absorbed progressively more moisture. Eventually, if left unchanged beyond the recommended service interval, the fluid will become dark and yukky, indicating high amounts of water absorption and thus badly contaminated fluid... user friendly Glycol based fluids also reduce the effect of both corrosion and compressibility because it is not only designed to accept significant amounts of moisture, but even to neutralize it by dispersing this moisture evenly throughout the system, thus preventing its concentration in any one area... Boiling point of Glycol based brake fluids DOT 3 205 °C (401 °F) DOT 4 230 °C (446 °F) DOT 5.1 270 °C (518 °F) DOT 5 Silicone based fluid will not turn color to signal moisture content... Boiling point of Silicone based brake fluids DOT 5 260 °C (500 °F) If you wish to use the latest in Glycol base fluids then its DOT 5.1 Note: DOT 5 silicone was created at the request of the military for use in vehicles that are required to be parked for years at a time and be ready for deployment. Harley-Davidson used DOT 5 until a decade ago because it would not negatively affect paint but currently specifies DOT 4 or 5.1 WARNING: Dot 5.1 glycol (yellow) and Dot 5 silicone (purple) will not mix. Moisture Contaminated

Lowered the idle today after reassembling and everything checked out. I’ll see how it does tomorrow when I take it on a mini little local trip to Pitt. I do need to find a fuse for the headlight, forgot I left that undone 🙄. So no night riding at the moment. But yeah, Honda mechanic magic made it work for now. Hopeful for the long run with this one.

Payment sent. Still hard to believe this is actually happening, might be able to get them on before riding season gets into full swing.......

Here are the promised numbers Battery :12,91V (new) Idle: 14.36V Slow idle with lights: 13.2-13.3V (12.8V at 80° engine temp... All other readings same at 80°C engine temp) 3.5k revs without lights: 14,43V 3k revs with lights :14.38V battery after test: 12.99V reg unit is Tourmax

pretty much sums up the life of owning a VFR

Hi does the 4th gen vfr have a fuse just for the rear lights ?? my brake lights work but no lights the headlights work not sure what this is can anyone help ? would love a wiring diagram pdf if anyone has this please.

Quality video. Never thought I’d need my Rev’It! Vapor since moving to SoCal, but it kept me dry all winter.

Thanks, this was just the discussion I was wanting to have. Personally, I'm fine leaving it on once the pipes are on. And I don't care about the weight savings. I use it all the damned time, and 5 or 7 lbs dead center and low is not going to do a thing for me, as I'm a slow rider and fatter than the average bear. I just thought it might be a good time to clean off some rust and pretty it up a little since I'm going to be ripping stuff off anyway. For others, a removable solution sounds interesting. The delk's have slip fittings, so you can get that bolt out, but it isn't exactly a feature. Slip joints are one way of avoiding weld cracks and the like, but taking them apart and putting them back multiple times is not a good thing. That's really leaks waiting to happen, which is why I haven't just yanked the pipe and pulled me stand off already.

Hi MooseMoose - yes, the headers need to be removed in order to remove or install the center stand [CS]. It's the same with OEM headers. Being able to remove just one pipe on your Delkevic to remove or install the CS is a nice feature. Alas, it will not be so with the new headers. Another member was asking the same question you are - a lot of us like having the CS on for touring and off for sport or track riding. I mentioned to the guy asking the question that another member here - I'm pretty sure it was BusyLittleShop [One of our resident VFR gurus with an advanced degree in the RC45] had set his VFR up with a quick release system so that he could remove and replace the CS without removing the headers. It would be great if anyone has time to search out that thread and see what it says. Now that it's come up a few times, I'll PM BusyLittleShop and see if he can offer any insight. I had another thought on removability of CSs: since only the right side CS fixing bolt access is hindered by the headers, and the bolt hole for the right side fixing bolt goes all the way through the cush bracket, there might be a way to run a tap all the way through the bolt hole to clear the threads, then thread a bolt of precise length through from the center of the bike outward to a nut on the outside of the CS where the bolthead usually resides. This would allow removal of the bolt without removing the headers. NOTE - 6 GENS HAVE REVERSE [LEFT-HAND] THREADING ON THE RIGHT SIDE CS FIXING BOLT. 6 GEN LEFT SIDE CS FIXING BOLT HAS REGULAR [RIGHT-HAND] THREADING. ADDITIONAL NOTE - 5 GENS HAVE REGULAR [RIGHT-HAND] THREADING ON BOTH THE RIGHT AND LEFT SIDE CS FIXING BOLTS. [Please do not ask me why I'm so adamant about this or how I learned about the 5/6 gen CS bolt threading anomaly - it still stings a bit]

....face down in the position 😆

Correct. It's a non-issue with me. It holds enough that I don't want to ride its' range without stopping by any stretch of the imagination. All one has to do is fill it up at a stop and then go. That simple.

US Gallons,Imp Gallons - Thank God for the metric system! My Owners Book and Service Manual states 21.2litres (5.60 US gal, 4.66 Imp gal). Australia and New Zealand 2014 versions. Strange to see there would be any discrepancy, surely Honda wouldn't make differing tank volumes or maybe different sized fuel pumps for the same bike depending on country! The great thing with the 8gen is I don't normally have to look for fuel till around the 400k range (249miles). Overall the 8gen has superior fuel economy than the 6gen. Cheers.

I emailed Marc and heard back promptly at the tail end of last week. He said they were planning on having the kits shipped by the end of this week, fyi.

And tons of options on material and style. In that 2nd link I saw at least one VFR12 seat. I've been following him on Facebook for over 5 years. Here's truly a master craftsman. 🙂

Hi CD, I actually spoke to Elsemade yesterday! I discussed my requirements for a custom seat and they have agreed to make it. Provided they deliver on the quoted price, I would say they are very reasonable in terms of cost. Thanks again for the recommendation CD, nearly bought an ebay special (out of shear desperation), but super happy I’m now having my own seat design created. I am booked in with them to have my seat done in June as they are booked up until then. I can’t wait! :) I’ll post some pics of the seat on here once it’s done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Having seen Colin and Aaron ride SP's at Assen at the start of the millennium, I agree with Skids that Castrols are luvverly and a few steps up!!..

So while I was at it...

This is all @douglasthecook 's fault!! He gave me a "Nicky mod" sprocket cover years ago for redslut. Now owning an RC51/SP2, I had no choice but....

Knowing that the rear has at least 1 piston activated when applying the front (at least while the front wheel is rotating) I hardly ever use the rear brake, unless I really need to stop hard and fast and I do not seem to have more wear at the rear than at the front. When I first brought home my 5 Gen (I bought it used), the rear brake was very wooden and didn't work well at all. Turned out the two outer pistons were scarred and had caused the seal to get chewed up and the rubber began to gum up the piston movement. This meant that the pistons would move out but not back in and thus created a drag on the rotor. I ended up rebuilding both front and rear calipers as well as MCs, even the SMC and replaced the hoses with SS lines and so far I have great braking performance but no abnormal rear pad wear. With the bike on the center stand give the rear wheel a spin and see if there is a lot of drag on the rotor. If so, I would pull the caliper off and check/clean the pistons.

Sounds like some sound advise has already been given but I think I'll odd a comment on the vibration issue. If it only happens when using the rear pedal only and not with or in conjunction with the front lever, I have experienced a vibration too. I appears that it comes from the front left caliper, it seems that when the center piston is the only piston applying pressure to the pad (as what happens with the rear pedal being pressed) it can sometimes vibrate in the caliper. When I feel this happening, I just do a light squeeze on the front brake lever and the vibration stops. I can also make it go away if I press harder on the rear pedal but I prefer the light squeeze of the front lever. I believe that the two out pistons creates a more equal pressure on the pad and helps quell the vibration. That being said, I would pull the seat off and look at the PCV bleeder as well as the rear and front SMC bleed points and see if there is fluid leakage, as it sounds like the system has air in it. Where that air was introduced at is the big question. Worse possible scenario is that there is a hole or slit in the line. Also, what does the rear reservoir level look like?

It is only money....

Also, through the winter, I added an SP2 RH radiator with fan (SP1 had only 1 fan), so I have double the cooling capacity when the fans kick in. However, I also had to get the SP2 oil cooler, lines, and center V-cowl, as it is relocated to allow fitment of the fan on the different rad. The LH OEM fan had been previously replaced by a SPAL pusher fan, so I now have one pusher fan and one puller fan. Should work OK in traffic and at speed also. And also put on a full set of Core Moto brake lines, and converted to coil-on-plug ignition using CBR600RR coils and modified CBR OEM coil wiring harness.

Hi Adamv. Sorry to hear of your issues. Further to what FJ12Ryder has mentioned. I personally believe the need to replace your rear brake rotor to be utter bullsh@t. With new pads, there is no way even a badly worn rotor would cause next to no braking and a pedal you can fully depress with your finger! Even if that was the case, it wouldn't happen just after a pad change which in fact would lessen the effect. If your reservoir is properly full and you are not losing fluid from somewhere, and provided the seals are not damaged then most likely air has entered the system. If you had NO brake issues prior them changing your pads then there is an extremely high probability they've stuffed up. Your statement of "pumping the brakes brings back brake pressure" points to air in the system. I would fully flush/bleed the rear brake system with Dot-4 fluid and re-assess your situation. Unless they can show you that the rotor was worn below limits (5.0mm minimum thickness) then I would be chasing a refund, as you have proven the rotor is not the cause of your issues. Couldn't agree more in what FJ12Ryder stated. You have a very dangerous situation on your hands and it needs to be positively sorted out ASAP. Good Luck.

Good Luck Urban. Sure hope by now that all the demons are fully exorcised from your VFR, joyous riding ahead of you. Cheers.

Rolls and crimps those style connectors perfectly.

Now you just need 99F and humid conditions during a track day to verify it! Hey in all seriousness, glad you seem on the right track to have it fixed!

Just do what the manual says. Video dude's logic is flawed. The map connected electrically won't be messing with the fuel flow or idle in any way that will give you less accurate fueling. It'll go into default mode since it doesn't see any vacuum, and nothing will change (since it doesn't see any vacuum) as you adjust the valves. Remember, also, starter valves are a relative thing. You just want to get them balanced. There's no need to over-complicate any of this, or confuse people with shade about manuals being wrong. Take Honda's word over random youtube dude's word. The manual is right, follow it, and you'll get good results. It's an easy task once you've done it once and get past the "oh yeah, I understand now" moment.

Pulled trigger on deal but not at asking price of 4K. No way could it rate 5K The beauty was only skin deep and actually it's saving grace. Bodywork and seat in great condition. It had come out of a collection located around Traverse City in 2016 Seemed to run OK but must have sat for awhile in damp environment; many steel fasteners rusty. Other notes; engine quite dirty, all hydraulic lines need replacing . Clutch slave actuator past leak affected engine paint, I could go on but you get the picture. To answer the matter with regards to wheel size; fitted 16 front and 17 rear. Fitted with Metzlers that were so slicked up you would wonder if they would hold a turn. Has potential but............. Overall definitely not even close to a turn key item; in dire need of some decent maintenance/rehab at a minimum. Like many here; been there before

Thanks UrbanEngineer. I spun the adjusting bolt down farther into the U-channel, readjusted the rear brake light switch, and uncurled about 3 coils of the stoplight spring. Of course I had to remove the foot peg bracket, rear brake master cylinder, and heat guard to get to it. And naturally, I had adjusted it all the opposite direction first and then refitted everything nice and snug. Second time was a charm however, and it feels a lot better now! Thanks to the Forum for good tips.

6gen manual states to have the MAP sensor electrically connected. As the Map sensor vacuum lines from each cylinder are connected to your vacuum gauges the MAP sensor will be only sending local barometric pressure to the ECM, perhaps this is required for accurate Starter Valve Synch, only guessing. I successfully did my 6gens as per the manual with the MAP sensor electrically connected.

Moto, do your research and homework here. The best to me is Staintune but not sure about their supply or timeliness any more. With baffles in they are still good, and lifetime. Lighter too but not a race system in terms of weight comparison. The bike doesn't fit that profile.

Hi all, just wanted to let you I am working on getting the totals for passivization, bungs, center stops and shipping together. I've been trying to do this when I had the time after work but after being in Montana all last week and coming back to a full plate of work this week, it's taking me some time to gather all the data and numbers for you all. Please be patient, I'll have the totals shortly, if only this work thing didn't get in the way all the time!Insert other media

It sounds awesome and that engine idles very nicely. Smooth!

It's that time of year around these parts when the weather is difficult to rely upon for consistent temps and the amount of sunlight diminishes significantly. What do you do before Winter sneaks up on you... you ride when you can. I took an extended lunch break this last week on a supremely beautiful day with temps in the 70's for a quick ride around Ispwich, Essex and Goucester. Had an enjoyable little hike to the ocean, a satisfying meal and saw some quirky roadside oddities. A great little stretch of road off of HWY 1, it's not fast paced, it's on the short side for distance but the scenery is really nice and the roads are a real treat with a few technical turns thrown amongst the sweepers, plus there is hardly any traffic which is so rare around these parts. Nothing beats the cod bites at JT Farnham's Famous Clams, so many clam shacks around this is my favorite with great outdoor seating. The Interceptor approves of the view. Hanging out at the gazebo in Stage Fort Park in Gloucester. I don't know the name of this location and I can never find it on a map but I find myself here often when I'm just meandering down roads that I like between Essex and Gloucester. The tree line before the ocean at Rafes Chasm Park. It's a very short hike off the road with some tremendous views. Some wildflowers along the hiking path at Rafes Chasm Park. Bird in flight looking south along the Atlantic coast. I saved the best pic for last! The elephant even has matching red, white, blue livery. Looking forward to a few more Fall rides before the bikes get packed away for the year but I don't think any of them will be as nice as this.

Same here, getting my 86 out of mothballs to get it ready for the Hindle install once it shows up 🙂