Leaderboard

Just heard back from ASV. Turns out that the gen8 has an upgraded master cylinder and lever. What's being sold now as gen8 levers don't take this difference into consideration. The lever works but will not produce the 250 rpm ramp up in 1st. They'll be manufacturing new clutch levers to rectify in a few months and will exchange mine regardless of condition when they are ready. If anyone else is running a gen8 ASV clutch lever you might want to contact them.

What is not to like here???

Maybe I’m a bit off topic since it’s not a 8th gen but it’s a V-four and a nice one Spotted in Milan at the EICMA

Hi All. After 57,000ks and with a 1800k upcoming trip, thought I'd replace the original front pads. I've always been a fan of the EBC HH's and 9,000ks ago I replaced the rear pads with EBC FA488HH's. A few days ago I fitted two sets of EBC FA390HH's ($59.95 a set AU!) to the front, I have to say, I am very impressed with these new pads, there is just so much less effort on the brake lever required for the same amount of braking compared to the original Tokico pads. Just thought I'd pass this snippet of info on, EBC HH's are a great brake pad, so impressed I won't use anything else. YMMV. Cheers.

Here's something I've been working on for a few weeks now. The whole project isn't finished yet, but should be soon, so I thought I'd post a few installments of the rebuild here. I was asked to get this girl back up and running, she was last ridden 10 years ago. During early discussions the carbs were cited as the main issue that needed addressing, but after getting eyes on the bike, the issues went a little deeper than that. Still not bad overall, a good starting point for sure. Nowadays you can give just about anything 10 feet and an Instagram filter to make it look good: But, the closer I got the more I saw that needed attention. The whole bike was fairly original, and was put away just as some of the small "old bike stuff" stared cropping up. Tires were dated 2003, fork seals leaking, clutch slave leaking, gas had gone off, battery gone, mufflers packed full of whole kernel corn feed, etc. I made a list and settled in for the long haul, but not before getting the bike to start on the old gas with a fresh battery. It took full choke and a lot of cranking, and the bowls leaked, but it did start, run, and even took some throttle so I knew we had something to save here. First up, clear a space, pull some bodywork and the carbs Rut roh, first sign of trouble... someone's had that plenum off, and they chewed up the screws while they were at it. When I saw that I figured it was time to go all in. Ordered a full rebuild kit from BillyC and tore the carbs down I got them to this point, then proceeded to tackle 1 carb at a time till all 4 were done Kit contents: All the rubber was hardened and splitting, this definitely needed doing Each carb body was soaked in Berryman's and thoroughly blown out/dried and rebuilt with the new rubber. The diaphragms and slides were in good shape and stock. The chrome on the slide hats was pitting and chipping/flaking and the hats were dirty, so I sent them on a quick trip through my blast cabinet to clean them up without dulling the chrome too badly, then installed the nicer ones on the outside carbs. Also blasted the plenum, and refined the body & bowl gasket surfaces. All in all, they look better now

METZELLER ROADTEC 01 second set of them Rode them last year on a long trip with passenger and bags in cold and wet conditions: super happy, lot of confidence on the wet, no issues changed at 15k I come basically from Pirelli Angel GT : ROADTEC are a step forward as touring tyres not as good as the Diablo II on dry/warm conditions but that's obvious Better in every aspect then originals Dunlop D222 which I hated for less then 6k

Let me know when you’re here, maybe I can show you a few...

Not sure whats available but you might want to check out https://www.twistedroad.com/ What kind of roads to you want to explore takes at least a good 30min to an hour to get to some more interesting roads. Technical, seanic , long sweepers?

LOL. I do have a remedy! Neon vinyl graphics!!

you can also use a spray bottle with water to check header heat and may need to lie on the ground next to the bike to check the rear headers.

Just realized that this was an 8th gen thread. Sorry about the ol' 6th gen rwb above, need to look more carefully. To make it up to you here is a photo of my buddies 8th gen along with his FZ6R in the deserts of AZ near Tucson on a visit I had last year.

Just riding around New England near Gloucester and Essex.

Not me, but this place needs all the posts it can get lately! I captured this one in the wild last fall. What's not to love?

hey some people just don't get it, its not for everyone. it took 9 years for me to convince myself I liked it, now I cant see me having a different color.

I was finally able to capture the Pearl White beauty of my 2014...in one of the most beautiful areas in the Country, Sedona Arizona.

Playing around with the DSLR, out and about.

Friday after the hurricane blew through the 'Carolinas.....VA Hwy 58.

I’m happy to report that the Albinogator is back up and running with a fresh lithium battery. The new battery cuts 5.7 pounds (7.9 old minus 2.2 new) and the bike feels noticeably more flickable/tossable IMO - but it could just be pyschological 😀 Between the exhaust, tail tidy, and battery, I’ve now cut 13.7 pounds off the bike. Here’s a link to the battery I got at Revzilla - model LFX18A1-BS12. My local Honda dealer matched and beat Revzilla’s price by a dollar: https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/shorai-lithium-battery-lfx18a1-bs12 Here’s a vid I made, enjoy!

I put a pair of T31's on my 8th gen at the start of Autumn here and rode daily thru one of our wettest winters, 160mm in August alone. They are far superior to the D222 OEM's in the wet. Under braking the D222's where constantly squirmng/activating the ABS under moderate braking where as the T31 require a deliberate noob grab/stomp on the brakes to get the ABS to activate. Under power, the D222 rear was easy to activate the traction control. Have been unable to do that with the T31 except briefly over a wet painted line on take off. As for grip in the corners, well I had the D222 rear sliding in the dry so I rode like a pussy in the wet on them. On the T31's I have been riding normally as I would in the wet and they feel good and confident and I'm sure I could push them a bit more if I wanted. Wear is good given i've done 4k km on them so far, all in the wet. Looks like they will put in a 15k km's life span. In the dry, I can't really offer an opinion on them, I've had so little time on them in the dry. There might be better tyres out there than the T31's. But one thing is for sure. They are an huge improvement over the D222's.

Now go button it up and go try it out.... No more Pop! Pop! Pop! Heh heh... I assume on a 6th gen or possible 8th, the job wouldnt be that much different.... Cheers all... For real, I sell the cover plates at $29.95 plus $7.00 shipping (US) -----I make these... Perfect laser cut, deburred and hand finished by yours truly....

I recently purchased one of the modded RAM ball mounts from huntinggunns. It holds like a champ and Fred was great to work with. The immovable object: ...with phone assembly: Next, I'm hoping to bring USB power to the phone with something from 3BR Powersports. RAM parts: triple-clamp ball mount (huntinggunns) short double-socket arm (RAP-B-201U-A) diamond ball base (RAM-B-238U) cradle for iPhone 6 (RAM-HOL-AP18U)

And now pics on a 6th gen.

Like this, its a Competition Werkes fender minimizer kit. Its stainless steel and made for the vfr1200. You just have to cut the tab off of the top to make it fit the vfr800. The OEM piece drops off with one bolt. I used these smaller reflectors to mount it. Since I took the 2nd picture I replaced the plastic OEM bolts with 2 more reflectors. http://www.competitionwerkes.com/products/Honda/2012/VFR1200/fender-minimizer-kit-1H1200