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Been a few years of trouble free goodness. The bike continues to be very capable and fun. The need for new tires inspired me to put together a "RC26-II" Upgrade Kit. Restored F3 forks with RT Springs. F3 front wheel. Brand new front Nissin calipers and pads. F3 5.0" rear wheel with a matching rear caliper. New rear brake arm solution. Real clean and simple.

Progressing. Slowly.

I did ye olde uno reverse card on the 5th gen fan, as many others have... and boyo boy does she pump that stuff out! Took an easy afternoon. One beard out of three difficulty. Just needed a quick drain of the coolant & we were good to go! PN: 19020-MBB-003 - side plastics removed & coolant drained. - Popped off the rad. Only one wire running to it. - side to side comparison - installed - and just like humpty-dumpty, it's back together again --- Video after the fan kicked on: PXL_20250208_204004430.mp4

One thing that i do to all my machines is swap the BMC with a Nissin Radial 19mm. It did wonders for the brake feel for both my VFR & my Transalp. With braided lines too from HEL, of course! Here's a link to one. https://japan.webike.net/products/21203034.html

She finally arrived

Here is the complete A&A Toro supercharger kit for the 6th gen VFR. I bought this last month to try and adapt it to my 5th gen '98 VFR but too many barriers to make that work so I'm offering it up for resale. Originally these kits were $5500. Includes a 5th gen right-side radiator that was required in the original 6G kit but not included. Not pictured but included is the CD with manuals and PowerCommander3 maps. Does not include a PowerCommander3 or RapidBike module. Parts of this kit have been lightly mounted but it's never been run, most parts still in original packaging. All the info on the system is here: https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/49353-give-your-5th-gen-a-boost/ and here: https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/31492-it-is-now-time-for-some-serious-modifications/ Pricing reflects cost I paid plus shipping & fees. Willing to ship within North America, international may be prohibitively expensive but we can discuss. Shipping insurance will add some cost to the total and this will ship with delivery signature required. Package is 13x18x18 inches (33x46x46cm) and 31.5 lbs (14.3kg). $3975 plus shipping and insurance from California, postal zip code 95949.

Concur that is the general consensus on this mod. The VFR has become my princess bike, and my transalp is my dirty daily, so long trips where traffic is an issue are not a concern for me anymore. ---- I do like the philosophy that ducatis go by when it comes to heat (perhaps it's 'copium', perhaps it's Stockholm Syndrome), and this mod supports it: "If you're hot, the bike's cool."

Add the trivia from a long time VFRDer.... If you ride in stop and go traffic... .ie.... very frequent where you are dead stopped in traffic less than ~10ish mph for longer bout... the stock fan is better. Sans that, if most of the time, maybe some infrequent SnG and moving 15 + mph, the VTR fan is the better... ---I'm running the VTR fan... YRMV Cheerz

Pirelli Rosso II mounted on some new rims I restored. Updated the front wheel and brakes to RC36-II.

You can tune the Rapid Bike unit to the AFR of your choice. I was running mine at 14.4-1 AFR @ 52mpg (UK), compared to 40mpg @ 13.2-1 AFR. But the bike didn't like the change to E10 fuel in UK so now run 14-1 on E5 or better. For the Donington track day I set 13.5-1 on Premium 97 RON fuel, which is now mostly E5 in UK. I have the MTB wide-band unit with Bosch 4.9 sensor. It records AFR as well as attempting to match what you tell it to use.

In practice a 0.5 mm difference on not being identical might work out, but since braking is pretty essential for safety, you must at least look for possible differences and decide if the (possible) impact is acceptable (to you). For example, the brake disc are a 'floating', you want your braking pads for braking on the disc and not the caliper holder... I am not sure which caliper you want to place on the 2009 caliper holder, but the glide pins length, the distance between the glide pins (in plane of brake disc), the mounting position (in the direction of the wheel axle), etc. need to be (near) identical.

Appreciate the responses. I found a new 2009 caliper with an SMC (on Ebay) so I took a chance and purchased it. The caliper assembly part number is Honda 45150-MCW-H03. The SMC bolted on exactly as the 2001 SMC. Hard to see in the attached pictures, but the casting on the SMC is 1/2, same as the 2001 SMC. The 2009 caliper was slightly different. The lower brake hose port is angled versus the 2001 which is straight, like the upper brake hose port. The 2001 short brake hose should be long enough to use on the 2009 slightly angled brake hose port. The second difference was the brake pad pin, the 2009 uses a hex head brake pad pin. So, as it stands now, Honda part number 06454-MBT-D52 (model year 2006-2009 SMC) can be used for model years 1998-2009 VFRs. I'll update once all is back together but it will be a while as I plane to rebuild all the calipers and flush all the brake lines, maybe replace them with stainless lines.

Looking good! Enjoy it.

DCBS - The gift that keeps on giving.

HEL do a build a line service, where you can either get them to build it to your specifications or you get a kit of fittings and pre cut lines https://www.helperformance.com/hel-custom-stainless-steel-braided-brake-lines

Hi Tim. The calipers on the 2017 onwards model are different from those on your bike. They are similar or the same design as the CBR1000R and have no pad retaining pin. I notice that the fork lowers have different parts numbers between the 2014-16 ( 51420MJMD11 and 51520MJMD01) and 2017 on (51420MJMD31 and 51520MJMD31) models so there is a chance that the mounts were redesigned as well. I cannot absolutely confirm that they won't fit but there is a risk. Out of interest, why do you need a new caliper?

Short update, after messing around with this for hours more I've decide to shelve the project. The 6th gen brackets are not going to work with the 5g frame, it would need new brackets machined up. That plus the other work needed is more of a commitment I wanted to make on what was supposed to be an inexpensive build with extra parts from storage. I'll list it in the classifieds shortly. Hopefully it can find a new home on a nice 6th gen RWB!

I purchased this system a few years ago from a late member of VFRD, sfdownhill (Lance). I didn't use it for more than 100 miles or so and don't anticipate using it again as I'm planning to change out the rear subframe. This system had been restored to like new by sfdownhill, the pipes and tips were re-chromed, new carbon sleeves were installed and the pipes repacked. Two inserts included to quiet the pipes down, they came with the set although I never used them. The under seat tray is a riveted aluminum one-off I put together with an added heat mat to keep the electronics cool. The ECU can mount under the seat, I had it on the side of the subframe. Canisters, mid-pipe, inserts, undertray, springs, clamp and license holder included, you'll need to source an exhaust gasket or other sealant for the mid-pipe to header. This is rare system, especially in this condition and pricing reflects a little less than I paid. Shipping is from California, postal zip code 95949. Open to shipping in North America or internationally with appropriate fees. Shipping box is 16x27x15 inches (41x69x38cm) and 16 lb 2 oz (7.4kg).

That is quite special. I'm quite envious. It all looks very nicely put together; neat lines and purposeful

That sounds absolutely fantastic I recently picked this used akrapovic up from webike.japan, it only cost me 170 pounds (200 ish dollars) and well being titanium its waaaay lighter than the original + it polished up nicely (it needed a lot of help haha, hence the price). Now it looks very very nice i think, i'v ended up giving it more of a brushed aluminum finish, but i dont mind. Yet to fire it up, i am stoked to hear it with + without DB killer haha.

You know now why I have a ZR7S as a CB SevenFifty in my garage 😅, I still love the RC24 engine, so enjoyable one!

Lovely. I can't even keep mine clean. 🙂

As Mohawk says, you can tune it any way you like. Mohawk’s blue 5th gen with RB (and MANY other mods) pulled away from mine cleanly at all speeds. I didn’t have a RB then. Oh, and Mohawk is a better rider than I am too! Since fitting the RB the bike has more urgency and feels smoother. Will get it tuned in the summer if I can find a decent Rapid Bike centre. NOTE 1: I had to go through Cal Sport in the UK to get a 5th gen map and harness. The main distributors no longer support the 5th gen. NOTE 2: I “believe” the harness for both 5th and 6th gen is the same…please do your own research to confirm, though.

YES !!! lock up the marketing and bean counter guys and bring in a Chief Engineer who has major respect for Soichiro Honda! No more refrigerator styling!

Touche... we'll call that a draw then.👍

I took a GSX-8R for a short test ride recently and really liked it. Great riding position, super easy to ride and throw around, punchy engine, demon brakes and reasonable comfort as well. I'm starting to find my VFRs a bit "wristy" as I get older, even with bar risers, and the GSX would address that and with decent legroom as well.

Love what you did to that exhaust! Looks really nice, should sound so too! Curious if the rapidbike-module not only makes it smoother and ad a bit of oumph (eagerness/power) but also if the fuel-economy improves?

We renamed the UK...

I took the occasion of the Chistmas days off to finally implement my plan to get my VFR as adherent as possible to my personal idea of VFR Let's start with the main thing: I'm definitely in love with G4. G4 embodies my idea of what a VFR should be: elegant. refined, sporty but classy and most of all... not reduntant. That's the thing: G5 is a wonderful machine, indeed; the engine is lovely, and it has decent tire size on rear, but its layout is... too much VFR concept does not need fancies like D-CBS, PAIR, flaps and so on. VFR has to be pure So, here's my work on my G5 to get it "leaner". The initial part of the job has been done at the very first moment I put the old guy in garage: flap removal, PAIR removal and small things more. Here's the post Once done this, the rest of the plan was: D-CBS removal Ignition coil update with coilstick Front indicator removal 1. D-CBS removal I made what most of all already did : VTR1000F front-end swap. I found a second-hand fork set, and a complete braking front system (including a HEL steel braided line) I won't add pictures of the works, because it's something posted dozens of time here.. I just want to remark an upgrade: a dedicated forkbrace, designed by myself: and machined from a solid Avional 2024 block. I replaced the original spacer with a new one made in aluminium: Here's the frontend swapped in: Because I use it "solo only" (my wife has her own bike), I removed passegers footpegs. I'm still studying for a decent muffler bracket... 2. Ignition coil update with coilstick As well as the frontend swap, it's something posted a bunch of times here,, so I just want to thank you all for inspiration and information. Despite all the info collected here, I fell into the error to buy a short coilstick 😁 However, it's not been completely useless, because by applying the seal of the shorter into the longer I got the perfect match: Short and long: Long coilstick equipped with seal of the short coilstick: 👍 Front cylinders: Rear cylinders: In the end, I replaced the mirrors with a pair or units with led light. They're very light (supports are in plastic... 😣) so I'm not totally convinced; I wait for the response of the road to finalize this mod. Initially, I closed the holes with an aluminium grid, cut with the proper shape. I have another choice by closing these holes with the proper caps from Thurn: Once on the road I'll decide what I like the most. To close this long and boring post, here's the video of the first start-up 😊 VID-20250113-WA0052.mp4 I willingly avoided to post all the pictures of the job here. For those who want to peek in, here's the link of my gallery: Just one thing is missing: footpegs rising. Thanks for watching 😀

Hi from over the pond in the UK. Weather is piss poor here too, -6C tonight ffs. Congrats on a wise choice of a Yellow 99, exact same as mine & quite a rare sight here in the UK. Based on my experience of working on these V4's, it sounds like you may well have the starter valves set incorrectly, only way to be sure is check it. It's common to need a few cranks starting these V4's from a cold motor, mine cracks into life on half choke after 2 cranks, which is normal, (don't touch the throttle) when starting an injected bike, especially when starter valves are fitted like on these V4s. A few things to check: Ensure choke is actually fully off, when lever is in off position. Ensure you have 4 good clean plugs, if in doubt fit new plugs, set gap before install, urban myth that plugs are preset, NGK Iridiums are well worth the money, new paper air filter or clean old one if it's washable, don't over oil it either or bike will bog down around 6,000rpm, giving symptoms like fuel starvation, in fact it's air starvation, ensure you have no exhaust leaks from the headers, junk the whole pair system, every part can be binned, no warning lights etc, it's not covered by any sensors, ensure airbox is capped off & both rocker cover reed valves are either capped off or aftermarket alloy covers fitted, clean out all the crap under the reed valves too, leave reed valves in place as they have a good rubber seal fitted as standard. Carefully pull the rubber plug from right side frame rail for access to the idle screw, use a (JIS) pozi driver, idle screw should not be tight as it's a spring loaded affair, if it's stiff, fix this before moving on any further, test it to verify you can easily affect idle speed, set it to 2,000rpm on a warm motor (no choke). Starter valves should be easy to turn as well & accessed via the the right side of the airbox near idle screw, you'll either need a longish 7mm open end spanner of long nose pliers will suffice but it's a bit fiddly. Sticking starter valves do occur, if you can't turn adjusters or affect the vac gauge readings by half a turn on a starter valve screw, there's likely a stuck valve or adjuster screw & throttle body assembly needs to come off for a strip/clean/lube. Starter valves adjusters are also sprung loaded & have a washer affair fitted with tiny ramps to keep the screw position set during adjustment. Common mistake is to set all 4 values the same, they should not be set to all the same value like an inline 4. Valve numbers & Specs are in manual or can be supplied if required, may even be on this forum. My advice is don't waste money on the wildly inaccurate Morgan Carbtune gauges, these are way over priced & far from accurate & can't be calibrated. Buy a set of 4 dial type gauges, not that expensive & no need to throw silly money at the likes of Davida gauges, a cheap set off eBay or Amazon will suffice, just ensure you zero synch all the gauges to each other from one vacuum source on the bike, before hooking them up to all 4 vac pipes on the bike. It's surprising how much better the bike will start & run when the little buggers are correctly adjusted, bike will also run smoother with the decibel killer removed if using an aftermarket can, can't comment on OEM can, never run one on mine. The above info is from my own personal experience of this process, manual isn't that clear on how to do it, if you're competent to strip/clean & set carbs up, you'll find this an easy process. Rgds Gaz (UK)

Dude, I never made 5th gen brackets.

Hi there! I know, its a bit strange to find incorrect procedure in workshop manual 22 years later. But no one did it, and I want to share my story now. According to 5th gen manual, 3rd cylinder vacuum pressure should be dropped to 20mm compare to 1st. Most of us read it as dropped DOWN, and translated manuals have it mentioned as LESS vacuum for 3rd and 4th. When I got my bike, it had flat sync for all cylinders. I did full maintenance some time later, through workshop manual, include starter valves synchronization. In very first day after, I noticed some surging when low throttle, it was a bit twitchy during city riding. Very uncomfortable to keep some speed at low throttle opening. Most of internet discussions about nervous VFR had tips about PAIR blocking and other redneck mods. Some of them suggested to always keep revs over 4k, because VFR doesn't love low revs... That's true, but I had very smooth bike before maintenance, even on very low RPM. First - I adjusted flat sync back. It helped me a lot, motorcycle became very friendly again. Then I did it opposite to manual. It means 3rd cylinder adjusted to 20mm MORE vacuum than 1st, and 4th 10mm more than 1st. And the bike is smooth as butter. Even better than flat, and MUCH smoother than official way. From here I want to explain why it helped. In service manual for 5th gen, they showed fuel injection diagrams. It has independent maps for each cylinder. On these graphs you can see - 3rd cylinder get lowest fuel portion, 4th a bit more, and 1+2 even more. I checked it with injector opening time frames. Diagrams are true, 3rd cylinder has less fuel than 1st on idle. For same mix ratio, fuel/air, we should feed less air into 3rd cylinder. It means we need close starter valve a bit, as result we will have MORE vacuum. It looks like they forgot to explain, what means "dropped". If your vacuum gauge has movement from right (0) to left, more vacuum will drop indicator down... If it is gravity meter, less vacuum will drop level down. There is no right description, more or less vacuum you should set with word "dropped". I'm pretty sure, they had some problems with that description, and maybe complains about flat is working better than described way. And finally they removed it from manual for next generations... P.S. I installed ABS brake system to my 5th gen VFR, with very minor modifications. If it would be interested - let me know)

Update, I adjusted my sync to jkson's suggestion, #3 20mmHg higher and #4 10mmHg higher. My VacuMate has a tach function that senses pulses, and I found it important to readjust (tweak) idle to 1200 rpm or vacuum readings spread more... of course, the VacuMate is very sensitive. I tried a CarbTune as well, but the resolution is much coarser with those moving parts. My cooling fan kicked on, and that will throw things off, so recommend you let it cool down again so the fan doesn't come on. I noted a much less lumpy idle at the new settings, and went for a shakedown ride, some highway and a lot of stop and go in town. Clutch action was much smoother, did not have to play throttle/clutch games nearly as much. Overall much better, and some time ago I was thinking of a new clutch pack next winter, but no longer is that a concern for me. So, highly recommend you try those new settings. I'm happier, thanks jkson for the analysis.........

The bobbins on floating disk brakes are supposed to move freely. That's how they "float". Here is a YouTube video I came across that shows how to free them if they do not move. Very informative.