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I strongly agree with you Grum. I don't grease wheel studs, but I do clean them with WD40 then just lightly wipe with a clean cloth. Rattle guns and 18 year olds in tyre shops are a bad mix. The only time I use the torque wrench is when I do the cams, all else I do by feel. Mind you there are a lot of people that haven't done a lot of engine work throughout their lives, and seriously over tighten all bolts. My first engine rebuild was on my mum's Austin 1800 when I was 14. Mind you, I had a container full of bolts left over that didn't seem to cause any issues, obviously over engineered.

If I get my butt n gear I will be there . Just have to reassemble the bike .

SF and I were texting one another on Monday while he was meeting with Wade. Looks like he’s moving forward ordering the parts and pieces. Since SF was the one who last spoke with Wade, I’ll let him give the details as far as timelines and such. Note that his and my work schedules are pretty full, so updates may be late evening or near end of the week. If not for having to wait for my client to show up, I’d probably not be lurking here right now. End of year always seems to through a wrench in the works but we’re looking good here now!

Here she is :-)

And then this happened.... https://youtu.be/yAI5-Golbmg

Booked the room today. Will sign up soon. Sooooo ready to ride.

I have incredibly disgusting waxy ears. Reusable is just gross for me. I use Howard Leights for work. (Oil and gas industry) Motorcycle riding, car audio systems, playing drums all contributed to some mild hearing loss in my early 40s now. I have a hard time hearing anyone if there is background noise. I wear them at work. I refuse to lose hearing from a job, however when riding, the plugs just make all that wind noise go away. Makes it more enjoyable.

You can download the shop manual for the VFR 750 1992 here If disconnecting sensor made a difference then: Look at page 18-18 for testing the sensor. If disconnecting sensor made no difference then: A little more work... You need to disassemble the upper failing so you can get behind the instrument cluster Locate the 2 6-pin connectors - disconnect, inspect and clean. Reconnect and check gauge At the bottom left of the instrument cluster you have 3 screw-terminals for the temp gauge - check they are color coded as drawing on page 18-11 (attached) If you have a voltmeter (if not no worries just skip) you should have 12 volts (ish) between left and right terminal and also between center and right. + is the right Black/Brown terminal. Ignition needs to be on Locate the Green/Blue wire with a screw-terminal at the left bottom side of instrument cluster (this wire is from the sensor) - disconnect and check gauge If previous step ok, then run a wire directly from terminal to sensor - check gauge If previous step ok, then you need to decide if you want to do more work to locate the wire problem or choose to route a new wire While you have fairing in bits and pieces, I strongly suggest you change all bulbs for the instrument light or even replace with LED

This is a long way out, and I have a conflict that weekend, but the conflict is motorcycle related about 2 hours away in NC (First Gen V4 group). So, if I'm not shipping out during this time I'll try to swing by for at least a beer, probably Thursday the 14th. That makes it a definite maybe :).

Check you have good solid Grounds for your lighting system (Grounds = Effectively ZERO Ohms back to the Negative Battery terminal). If the headlights ground is poor it could mean you'll apply 12v to the Hi Beam Indicator turning it On, even when Lo Beam is selected. Confirm you have 12v at the Hi Beam relay Blue wire when hi beam selected and make sure the relay coil ground side is properly grounded. Any doubts about the relay swap it with any of the others they are all the same.

Any update on 5/6g round 2 ?

Yeah, with the active noise canceling I couldn’t hear the engine. I would have to look at the tach to see if it was running. I thumbed the starter button on a few different occasions thinking the engine was off. My ear buds did a great job canceling engine noise... too good a job in my opinion. I need that engine feedback when I’m carving twisties to know where I’m at in the power band. I wish they were able to cancel wind noise as well but they don’t. They aren’t able to produce all the out of phase frequencies to effectively cancel out wind noise. Now I wear my custom molded earplugs I got at TMAC and get the best of both worlds. I hear everything I want to hear but appropriately attenuated to protect what hearing I have left.

Hope you are able to make it.

If you really want to have a permanent semi-automatic "shortcut", add a simple relay timer triggering when the black/blue wire initially goes high (on rise). Then you can turn on ignition and fuel pump will stay off If you hit the start button, the fuel cut-off relay will do its work as usual - supplying power to fuel pump when engine is rotated/rotating If you momentary hit the start button then timer triggers and fuel pump will engage for the set time (e.g. 10 seconds) So for normal operation just hit start - everything works as if only the fuel cut-off was there. After long storage; hit the start button momentarily - fuel pump will fill bowls for e.g. 10 seconds. If not enough, then repeat. Hit start button again at any time to engage start motor. Assuming engine has run for more than 10 seconds (the delay), then if engine for any reason stop rotating, the fuel pump will turn off at once (not delayed). No switch or wires-plugs - everything can be hidden. Operation of fuel pump easily verified. Easy installation - relay not costly.

Hey guys Back on the RapidBike Racing and the Gen 8 VFR. Here is the RB Application table showing the Gen 8 does use the single 12mm narrow band O2 as long as you buy the correct kit and wiring loom. I've highlighted the parts in question. Cheers Phil PS. The new Gen 8 headers on my modded Gen6/5 are working really well after I added 2 18mm bungs to support the factory narrow bands. The RB MyTuningBike unit is working really well and the power is much more spread compared to my home built system, based on the Shark RC45 system, I've been running for the past years. Good investment all rounds. Phil

I found it well worth fitting the 5gen wheel to the 4th gen. running michelin road 5 tires (180 rear) and the bike handles great. really pleased with the setup.

I'd love to make it to this event. Historically this is just about the best event on the VFRD calendar. However, now that I've got a dog to care for, I'll need to recruit a dog sitter. She is quite the handful so that is not assured. Ergo, I'm a strong maybe.

Isn’t it about time to do it again? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The arm is a "torque recation arm". The golden bits are the rear shock's (external) gas reservoir and the preload adjustor knobbie 🙂

Me too! Can't friggin' wait. Winter has been too long already. PreRide route planning is in high gear. - prelim route is extensive. Feel like doing 5 days this year? With designated photo and bbq stops (Ridgewood stop, of course).

I'm in! Like there was ever a doubt.

A fellow RC51 owener from Finland reached out to me. He acquired a VF1000R and is looking for an OEM exhaust system. This to satisfy goverment rules on "factory originality" and thus qualify for classic status for insurance purposes. And a NLA part, the rubber chain slider. If you have one and want to sell I will pass on his details His VF currenly has a Laser 4-2-1

*THIS*.................... the spanner in the works.... Gebruiker is fully integrated in the Dutch frugal society

Signed up.

I used to have a black plastic hugger made by Pyramid Plastics on my '93 FP, but I don't know what happened to it. It's tricky to mount a hugger on a SSSA, but it is certainly possible. I've got a Harris one on my RC46 in California and a Durbahn one on my RC36 in London. The latter is actually an RC30 hugger, because it's mounted on an RC30 swing arm. The mounting holes would probably be different on an RC36 swing arm (and it was very expensive!) Ciao, JZH

I own them both 🙂 younger and older crazy V4 🙂

Just for info. For over 40 years I've always applied grease or oil to the wheel stud threads on both bikes and cars, have never torqued a wheel nut in all that time, just tightned to a good solid tightness based on the nut size. I've never experienced a wheel nut coming loose or a wheel nut seize onto the stud or a stripped thread. The first thing I do after getting a new set of tires on the car is to go around every wheel nut and back them off, then retightened them to my liking. So often the pneumatic impact tool they use just applies excessive tightness. A similar analogy are those who feel the need to torque an oil filter or the oil drain plug, with a good feel for proper tightness, torquing these components is not necessary. As always YMMV. Cheers.

The Duc has a center nut that is supposed to be torqued to around 175 ft-lb. Getting it off is a pia, I busted a 1/2" breaker bar with a 6 foot extension trying to get it off. The nut laughed at my 275 ft-lb pneumatic impact wrench... Harbor Freight, 1050 ft-lbs, took less than a second to pop it off.. https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-heavy-duty-extreme-torque-impact-wrench-64120.html

2018 8th gen black beauty 😎

After purchasing my VFR the hunt was on to find the right pipe. IMHO the stock VFR pipe sounds like a twin below 4000 rpm. After 4000 and all is good but quiet. I tried a Delkevic slip-on and that lasted about 30 minutes. Unfortunately, I thought the stock can sounded better. After hearing every sound clip I could find, I took a chance and picked up this CF pipe from Scorpion. The only sound clip I could find was on their web site with the bike on a dyno. They really don't claim much of a HP increase. I really like this pipe. To my ears it sound great through the whole rev range. If you want loud this is probably not the pipe for you, but if you want something more refined. This is as good as it gets IMHO. I tour on this bike so the pipe needed to fit with the oem hard bags. The bottom of the case touches the top of the pipe so I did have to make an adjustment to my case by removing a small spot welded part on the heat shield. I believe its just a small pad to keep the case level to the ground when it's off the bike. Everything fits perfectly now but that was almost a deal breaker. This pipe comes with a baffle and I tried it both ways. It sounds good to me either way, If you like more volume just remove the baffle. The fit and finish is exceptional and to me it looks like it belongs on the bike.

"I tinker, therefor I am" -René Descartes