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I just said goodbye to my Ol'Heavy. It was not easy but I'm happy because the young man who took her will be good to her and will most likely be joining VFRD soon. I will be much happier seeing her ridden. Looking back for a pic, I found this one. Appropriate because it was the beginning of the end. I loaned Andy my CB500x to join us on the PreRide. I ended up riding it one day and loved it in the mountains. The next year, Covid struck and I rode it while Rob rode Ol'Heavy. I became a much better rider on a bike that was 100lbs lighter and about half the horse power. It was really hard trying to get my old body back on the VFR. The other reason that the pic is appropriate is that it reminds me of the good times and great friends that have come from VFR ownership and membership here going back to '05. I will still be here for years to come, I hope, to continue enjoying the friendships.

To our New Zealand and Aussie members. The celebration of ANZAC day is special in our hearts as we celebrate, honour, and remember those who gave their lives for the freedoms we have. Lest We Forget.

Out of Winterization, installed a battery, primed the fuel system and checked the tire pressures... and rode the 95 for it's Spring opener. Nice rip in the Snohomish Valley after work and stopped for a beverage and some sweet potato fries at one of my favorites places, Duvall Grill and Tap Room. EDIT: WRONG FORUM!!! Sorry. I'm still leaving this here.

Well, after roughly six months of being able to ride again, primarily commuting, no "real" ride yet, but hey, at least I'm able to ride...or am I? Had another little hurdle thrown at me, hand surgery. Seems my left hand suffered from "trigger finger". For the most part, my hand worked like normal except when I used it in a fist for grabbing something. Essentially, it would "lock up" on me, and it was difficult to straighten my hand back out. Ironically, riding a bike and working the clutch didn't seem to be affected by this, so that was the good part. So last Tuesday I had it operated on. Figured it wasn't going to get better on it;s own, so I went forward with the surgery. I had two options, option 1, full anesthesia, option 2, local numbing and be wide awake. Well, after my "other" operation, I felt fully comfortable being awake for this one, especially since that was an option. So that's the route I took, numb the hand, and operate away. Much like my other surgery, the afterward was uneventful and believe it or not no pain! None, not even a little ache. There is some discomfort when making a fist, which is encouraged, well, at least to move my hand like normal as much as possible. That to me was expected, as the affected area was a bit swollen and I did have a sutured wound. Although I technically still ride in this current state, I am encourage to not ride until at least 2 weeks from the surgery date, so not a 9 month wait like the last one. So with dealing with a bunch of "life" stuff and work, I at least have stuff to occupy my time, and it's already been a week, so this time things seem to be moving faster at least. On another positive note, I helped a friend of a friend acquire a 98 5 Gen for $2,900.00! It was listed and was located about 10 miles from me so I went to check it out and if he didn't want it, I was going to buy it! Well, he ended up buying it and I helped him get it freshened up, as it had been sitting for a few months. There was few little pieces that needed attention, that I was able to fix/resolve for him and while he and I were talking, he tells me that not only is he a ski and snow board instructor, he also does motorcycle training. Well, needless to say, we became fast friends! I agreed to help out on a few other things and he said he would give me some one on one rider training, so I took him up on that the Saturday before my surgery. Let's just say, although my street skills are good, I can definitely use some "training" time, I am a little bit rusty after not riding for a while. Oh yeah, prior that Saturday morning we went to the 'Cars and Coffee' at the American Honda HQ in Torrance, CA. Anyway, good to be alive folks! IMG_3358.MOV.mp4

We have all wondered how a vfr engine with forced induction takes this abuse right? Well at least I have! So to all those who have told me over the years that this is not going to last, the vfr can not handle this - you are wrong! No measurements have been done, I have just glanced over everything - season has started. This engine will be shelved waiting parts and getting ready for the next stage. A 17000km engine will be put in it's place. I don't have more time this week to tell the story but it will come 🙂 Have a good one guys - ride hard but mind your 3rd gear 😅

Very few bikes look cool without some cash and talent. More cash requires less talent while more talent requires less cash. Seb's naked bikes look like MONEY but we know how they got there.

Yeah eventually I am going to buy all of the plastic for mine or try to repair the ones that are still savable. I was just wondering if there are cheaper alternatives. I like the stock look but at this very moment to put it back on the road I'll probably just throw on the damaged fairings so I can ride it until I can afford to put new plastic on. My brother knows how to paint and offered to help me once I have all of the parts.. I have owned my Honda Magna for 7-8 months and really like the V4 in that bike so I went out and bought this one. It might take some time and money but I think this bike deserves a second chance. Thanks for the advice guys I appreciate it.

Great news Duc. Speedy recovery. I fully understand the frustration from post operative blues of not being able to ride for lengthy periods. Nice partnership with your mate, rider training in exchange for bike help. I find it one of the joys of motorcycling, always learning and refining technique and smoothness, whether or not I achieve my goal is debatable! Great motorcycle porn shots! Guess you'd never want a faulty "trigger finger" with a six shooter in your hand! Take care and best regards.

Yes. I always expect a new helmet to be tight. It will adjust to your head and cheekbones, and you will adjust to how it feels. Far better than a lid that starts too loose. In the worst case you can change pads. And...I bought an AGV K6 S last year, and posted a review here on VFRD. I'll try to find it for you but the short answer is I love it so far. Light weight, field of vision and build quality.

Judging by the phrases used in his post and the general description of the starting point, I don't think either one of those options is in the budget. You could just buy a pretty nice 94 thru 97 for less money. Naked maybe. But if you want it to not look like ass, then usually any "budget" naked build is out too (imo).

Here's a 2001 with 17k miles listed locally for $6k. It's high but the seller is probably not in a rush and can lower the price as needed. https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/75107544 I say list yours at 5-6 and see what happens. You can always lower it. That said, I offer the following for reference: I bought a 2001 in 2021 with 20k miles for $3,000. Pretty clean overall just needed some refreshing. I considered this one a pretty good deal. I bought another 2001 6 months ago with 39k miles for $2500. Not as clean, needed more refreshing. This one was more of an ok/fair deal for what it was. Last year there was a 2001 on cycletrader with only 1200 miles listed at $6500. Very sensible price given the miles. It was super clean too. It would be rare to find another one with miles that low or lower. Things that help get top dollar: -bike should be detailed, waxed and exceptionally clean. If we're claiming near showroom it should look like it. -new(er) tires, recent fluids, etc, especially brake fluid for anyone that knows the annoyance of properly bleeding linked brakes. -any and all documented service history available, receipts if you have any in a folder. Both keys if you have them. -all mods documented in the ad, stock parts included if you have them still. -should include OEM grab handles, rear upper cowl (that covers the seat), OEM windscreen, owner's manual and tool kit -any issues or defects documented/photographed. Pointing out a few small scratches is a good thing if that's literally all there is to point out. It emphasizes that the rest of the bike is in great shape and no surprises for potential buyers. -Several GOOD pictures in sunlight (It's amazing how many sellers don't take the time to clean up a vehicle or take good pics.) -a short but well written for sale ad, bullet points not paragraphs -priced reasonably given current market. These bikes live between $2k and about $6k with most falling in the $3500-$4500 range. Several factors determine what it will ultimately sell for. There's a price that will have it sold in minutes, another that will have it sold in a day, and another that will take weeks, and another where it won't sell at all. Decide what you would be happy with, add a little wiggle room and see how it goes. I have sold many vehicles to the first person who came to look at them by having them clean, sorted, well presented and fairly priced. Most of my vehicles have sold quickly. Some too quickly. Some took longer, some I had to lower the price a little more until the right buyer appeared. Just gotta get the right combination of factors to get it done. This is one that I recently spent some time refreshing and cleaning up over the winter. It's not worth $6k, but would probably sell quickly at a reasonable ask. Not for sale though. 😉 Cheers, Justin (click for better resolution)

Up for sale is my gorgeous VFR 800. I bought it late of 2020 with only 2800 miles on it. It was bone stock. Over the last few years I've made some tasteful modifications. Pazzo levers, Heli-bars, Puig screen, Two Bros. can, EBC-HH pads, Sargent seat, black and gold RK chain and sprocket. Changed out the 23 year old brake and clutch hoses for HEL lines. (Don't even ask what they cost). Had DMr re-valve and respring the rear shock for a 200 lb rider. Front forks were serviced, re-sealed and re-sprung accordingly. Replaced the fork tubes due to some minor pitting. Every fluid on the bike has been flushed at least once. Bridgestone Battleax's have plenty of life left. Replaced the plugs and air cleaner out of boredom, and the Yuasa battery is one season old. Always garaged and on a tender. All the fasteners, bolts and push pins are OEM correct and in place. I have the stock muffler, hoses, complete tool kit with spanners, both keys, rear spring, grab handles and hardware. I should have the stock clip-ons somewhere. Small rock chip on left fairing, and a couple hardly visible scratches on the lower right fairing. Asking $6000.

Never been an issue with all 4 VFR800's I've owned with after market exhausts fitted, 1200 shouldn't be any different. O2 sensors means ECU runs in closed loop, so air to fuel ratio is continuously optimized. Think you're worrying about nothing. I'd probably go back to the OEM type airfilter if it was mine! Good Luck with the bike, take it for a good test ride. Check it's maintenance history. Coolant change, brake and clutch fluid replacement - should have had a few of those! Oil and filter, etc. P.s. I'm sure there was a rear wheel drive unit issue recall for the early 1200's. Make sure this has been done.

The RC46 crank case & major assemblies are taken directly from the RC45 which in final race trim was putting out 195rwhp @ 14K/rpm. The only major parts difference was the pistons & Ti conrods & the crank+cams being timed differently. The big bang RC45 crank is timed at 0 degrees, such that it acts like a pair of V-twins joined together. And the 2mm shorter stroke allowed for the higher race RPM. That setup creates huge loads, the VFR's 180 degree crank is much kinder to the cases & bearings. Due to the total lack of RC45 crank case spares, race teams use 5th gen crank cases with the swingarm pivot ground off. They then bolt straight in to RC45 frame and all RC45 innards just drop in.

Maybe this will help

Arai actually has three shapes in their line up, depending on model. Round-oval (Quantum, and it's derivatives), intermediate-oval (Renegade family?), long-oval (Signet).

This is the exact same thing as I did. Thanks

Just my two cents worth, I hope others with more experience in this area might chime in. Interesting question. SV synch is fundamental to good even idle, and smoothness in the small throttle opening zone, a mechanical setting, adjusted at normal operating temp, without the influence of the fast idle Wax Unit, and butterflies closed. Stands to reason this should be carried out first along with correct warm idle adjustment of 1200rpm. Assuming badly balanced SV's, and especially during the cold start enrichment phase, a slight touch of the throttle opening and the added air might cause a stall. I know of a similar effect (possibly in both hot and cold modes) on a 5gen. a faulty signal from the TPS at low throttle was measured, but not bad enough to force an Fi DTC. The whole throttle body was replaced and problem solved. All warm engine ops are normal according to Shane the OP. Perhaps signals from MAP and/or ECT are marginal at cold temps and might need checking. Watching the Wax unit action on the Starter Valves, and if the movement is smooth and gradual from cold fast idle to the warm Idle, you can then discount the Wax Unit causing any problems.

4 years later.. just weighed this afternoon when changing tires, using a postal scale. Marchesini forged wheel from a 1098 Duc - 7 lb 14oz VFR 5g-6g oem 5-spoke - 13lb 4 oz

On the topic of hand controls, by coincidence did the same for my 6th gen's clutch & brake levers (similar to the 3rd thru 8th gens). The old grease becomes sticky over time and I've found that spritzing WD40 or similar on them in place doesn't do all that good a job of cleaning. When removed the levers can be dismantled, a tricky but not impossible task for those too inclined. That also gives access to clean the master cylinder pivot which ensures the smoothest possible response to input.

2015 Honda VFR Intercepter Deluxe- One senior owner. My wife bought this bike for me for my 70th birthday and it has been garaged since new. Health issues require that I give up riding. The Deluxe model of the 2015 Intercepter includes Traction Control, Anti-skid Braking, Self-canceling Turn Signals, Heated Grips, and a Center-stand- items which are not included on the standard model. Mileage is 24,218. Bike is in like new condition with the exception of very minor plastic damage on left side. I dropped the bike at 0 mph while attempting a u-turn on a narrow dead-end street (don’t always rely on your GPS). Rear seat cowl and rear passenger grab handles have never been mounted but are included. Equipped with Michelin Pilot Road 4GT tires with just under 2000 miles of use. Dual port USB charger and voltmeter installed as well as 1 inch handlebar risers. Located in Denver, NC (just north of Charlotte) post id: 7737270774 posted: 6 days ago

In addition to Skids' excellent suggestions... I added Heli bars, the Honda OEM center stand, and Honda OEM heated grips, and was very happy with all three improvements. The 2010 stock seat was significantly improved in later years (2012 and later?), you might want to look into that. Also, did your bike get the drive shaft recall done? I do miss that bike! But I guess I've said that about almost every one I've owned...

The only time I'd spend 20k on a motorcycle it would be this one. VID-20240406-WA0049.mp4

I payed mid $3K for all of mine. They have more than that in suspension components alone. It's not about the money.

Best not to dismantle the wax unit. Clean it up with wd40 and a brush - an old toothbrush perhaps. Clean the linkages on both intake banks.

Oooo I have one of those - my VFR is the daily and 954 my canyon carver on the weekends. I think it's a very good two-bike garage!

My dad would always tell me my car was worth whatever one person was willing pay on any given day. As to your low mileage example, the mileage will be a big plus but if the services all need to be performed, it's considerable these days and will bring that value down. There's a '00 5th gen in my area that is listed for $6500. My '07 with every farkle you can put on one is listed for $5700. I listed it here on VFRD for almost a year at a lower price and got zero replies. VFR guys are cheap sob's. I can say that because I'm one of you. I will gladly lower the price when someone shows some real interest. Unmolested 5th gens are harder and harder to find so you should get some interest. Start high and just be patient. Could I interest you in a 6th gen?😆

Shit loads to anyone who knows their motorcycles

The issue of the centre piston on the rear caliper not relieving is now resolved. This would only happen when actuating from the rear brake (that cylinder feeds the rears outer two pistons directly, and feeds centre piston via the front second master cylinder, though the green check and relief valve you see above. I think what was happening is fluid was entering the system through the ball check valve, but could not escape though the tiny relief hole which had blocked after been stood 12 years. The brake initially stuck after cleaning it out as above, it wasn't jammed on, but it wasnt right which was very worrying, I again began the process of confirming and chasing the pressure lock from the caliper back towards the front second master cylinder, but after confirming the pressure released at the rear middle piston banjo, subsequently releasing the rear wheel, I moved on to the PCV under the back right of the fuel tank, only to find I couldn't get it to lock again!? Maybe I just had an air bubble right at the back of the system and I let it out? I did a quick manual bleed over all the points, pumping the front second cylinder by hand, no vacuum/power or check valve hoses, just an 8/10mm spanner and a bit of pipe on all the points, my favourite method to be honest! - The levers are nice and firm now, and after a good blast out, the front brakes are really keen even with light pressure, the back when actuated from the rear still drags for 1/2 second or so but its getting quicker and smoother at releasing, I dont notice it when pulling up at lights any more, the bike free wheels forward back when rocked. Happy, just been out for an hour, great bike, good find.

Errrrr......thanks. Everyone is entitled to their opinion and I'm not going to challenge yours 😆

Dainese own AGV. I have an old Dainese helmet, which was made for them by AGV. AFAIK they only sold Dainese branded helmets for a couple of years. I used to use AGV as they had a ML size that fitted my head well. They stopped doing ML but Dainese still did them 👍 Looking at the latest AGV size chart the current Large is 58-59cm which is the old ML size !

How long since your last new helmet? While a headache is perhaps a sign, where are the pressure points that are giving pain? I sold helmets for over a decade, from the 90s into the 00s. If it has been a while, a properly fitted new helmet can be a shock.

Typically I'm a Shoei wearer (Currently a GT-Air2) but over the past few years I ventured out to other makes. Schuberth was my first step into both another make but also into a modular helmet. I bought the C3, then the C3 Pro, I skipped the C4 and C5 and went with the AGV Tour Modular. In between that, I also bought the Schuberth SR1, and found a screaming deal on the SR2, so I bought that model too. These two were my track day helmets and the SR1 proved to be a great helmet but ultimately sacrificed itself for me in a high speed crash at the track. I actually came out pretty unscathed, other than a dislocated pinky and torn up gear, I came away walking upright and no limping. Along this time frame, I saw and fell in love with an AGV K5S and bought it on the spot. I know, I know, get to the point D! Other than the first C3, which had a little "hot spot" in the forehead area, which broke in after a few weeks of riding in it almost daily, all of the helmets had a very snug fit. They still do, but they're slowly getting more "wiggle" room but not enough to feel unsafe. My daily helmet is the AGV Tour Modular and the street/sport helmet is the K5S, and off and on I'll go back to the Shoei. But if I'm being honest, I really prefer the AGV helmets over the Shoei now. For some of the same reasons mentioned above, light weight and great field of view. If/when a helmet feels a but too tight, I'll wear it around the house for a while and see if I start to feel fatigued or if I stop noticing the feeling. One of my Shoei helmets, which I bought online, was like that. I was at that time, was in between sizes, so I went with the smaller size but immediately new I went in the wrong direction. I wore the helmet in the house for about 15 minutes and new by that time, it was the incorrect size. Returned it and got the next size up. Still snug but not overly tight. Anyway, I hope this was helpful.

All done. PM replied.

Somehow I missed Lance's request for info here. Full details available here. R.I.P Lance

-Put it all back together I am going to take it apart again and re check everything. -I did check all the hoses and they seemed fine no cracks etc. put some silicone grease on them to soften them up a bit. -gt85 the linkages and pushed in and out to help lubrication they didn’t seem stiff or seized. -Funnily when I put it back together there didn’t seem to be any flashing of the FI it just went on and off as normal when I turned the engine on. do I need to reset it could the fact that it needs resetting be an issue? -when I got the bike (1 month ago) it had fresh oil on spark plugs so I replaced the seals around the spark plug and it stopped leaking. Cleaned up the plugs with some heat and put them back in. Apart from the oil they didn’t seem bad. -When I first got the bike it struggled to start first time. After emptying the tank of previous fuel I put in v power fuel and some redex to clean and it now starts first time just rough to start with throttle hesitation. -I thought it was fuelling issue but will come back once I have done further investigation. thanks for your support I didn’t realise forums were so helpful. Hopefully I get this sorted had nothing but problems with it since I got it. To be honest it has put me off Honda. I’ve had all major Japanese bikes and this is the only one where the issues keep coming. I am only persisting because of the lovely v4 engine sound. kind regards. Shane

Some progress on the RC24. Started to take fork off, decided to take top fairing as well off to put the round clocks on even will run OEM fairing this season. The fairing has some damage but don't know if I will do anything to it, it will be replaced whit the cbr900 anyway in a near future (next winter), seems there is a lot of small damage here as there also. Other headlight faster is broken As the oil cooler other attachment cracked as headlight fasteners bent The headlight holders can easily be bent back nut the oil cooler faster needs a weld. Did strip the front brake I have the rebuild kit for the calipers. Also thinking I might take the long brake lines from the FJ for the VFR to keep it more simply whit just 2 brake lines. Fork legs off so next is to change the seals in them Ah, one thing, found a nicer chain guard, it also have the metal inserts so you don't tight the plastic to much so it cracks. It's from a 88-89 but 100% alike the 86, the sticker has wrong size tires thro, oh well, will be other size on bike anyway

Wow, nearly 236,000 faultless kilometres, great testament to Honda reliability, nice looking bike. Hope the 1200 lives up to the enjoyment and durability you've had with the NC700X. Sure hope my 2014 8gen VFR can live up to that mileage - I have no future replacement plans for my VFR, now at over 96,000kms. Cheers

Go high and be patient. Let us know how it goes!

Sounds like you might have a bit of stiction with the Wax unit linkages, etc. Try cleaning and lubricating all linkages, a spray of some WD-40. See if that makes any difference. You might also benefit from a Starter Valve Synch procedure. While you're in that area. Pop the vacuum hose off the FPR Fuel Pressure Regulator, check the hose is dry and no weeping of fuel from the FPR vac hose fitting. Weeping fuel = Ruptured diaphragm. And.......Download the Service Manual from the forum if you don't already have it.

Just so you know, the two posts above are from two of the more knowledgeable members of the forum. Welcome to VFRD.

Some good voltage checks especially around the ESR, voltage on fuse test points Ignition On and Off, visual inspections for strange wiring, continuity check of Ignition Switch function. Are all good starting points. Download the Service Manual form the forum if you don't have it. May the Force be With You....There's plenty of info to get the ball rolling, very interested in what you may discover, post photos. Strangest VFR fault I've ever heard of!

I've got a simple "Sealey" manual tyre changer in the UK (probably the same as many others coming out of the same factory in China!) and it works absolutely okay. However, I bought a separate, nylon enhanced tyre bar off eBay which works better than the original all-metal one the Sealey came with. What made the unit work best for me was to bolt it to the driveway, using stainless steel button head bolts (slathered in anti-seize) threaded into Rawlbolts sunk into the drive. When I'm done I unbolt it and put the bolts back into the holes. So far, so good! Ciao, JZH

Second hand vehicles, esp. ones that are over 20 years old - You know you're going to be fixing some stuff. At least she runs smooth and rides like a dream

What color are you looking for? The US colors of red, blue and black are still available. Blue is cheaper and black is the most expensive. Some of the overseas colors are still available. Fowlers in the UK has a very easy to navigate site. https://us.fowlersparts.co.uk/ The exchange rate is bad for us at the moment, so the prices at Fowlers are high. I have found that getting the parts numbers for fairings from Fowlers, and then ordering from Japan works well. The site in Japan I have used multiple times is https://japan.webike.net/ Webike's site is a bit harder to navigate when browsing for available parts. That's why I find the part number on Fowlers and then plug it into the Webike site. Webike ships super fast and you have to pay extra for that. However, the exchange rate between the US and Japan is so good for us that the total price is typically reasonable. I have even found the price on some parts that are available at Partzilla can be cheaper when ordered from Webike and shipped over the Pacific. DHL is by far the best shipper they use. They are even sometimes the cheapest.

I would view the below as mileage items: Brake pads Chain and sprockets (keep lubed to ward off surface rust) Valve check - changes due to heat cycles and movement Time related: Oil Coolant Brake fluid Fork oil - 5 years? Clean electrical connectors - corrosion can still happen over time even without riding. Petrol tank - keep full to ward off rust and use fuel stabiliser. Injectors - can't hurt to use an injector cleaner to help keep them clean when riding. Tyres - after using 7 year old tyres I wouldn't again. Fit something sporty that will wear out before 5 years is reached. Get your moneys worth! Keep on stands to avoid flat spots. Battery - tender or swap in a battery from one of the others when you want to drive it, saves buying a battery that sits on a tender for most of its life. Mice protection - may not affect you, plug exhaust and airbox. Bodywork - keep covered with a soft cover even garaged. Detail and polish as the urge grabs you. ACF on metal fittings and fixings. Hoses - over time will get old and hard. Buy replacements now and hoard for later. Rear hub - may be prudent to strip and regrease and then move periodically to stop it seizing, grease gumming up (?) That's all I can think of right now but good advance thinking 👍

Center stand installed and lifting the bike up These are the steps to installing an oem centerstand for a VFR1200F Part Number 08M50-MGE-100 This retails for around $200 delivered, I got mine from ServiceHonda.com. Before even attempting to do this MAKE SURE THE BIKE HAS COOLED OFF you will be working around the headers and you will burn yourself if its hot! Centerstand parts and instructions Inner and outter springs main spring and a safety spring that fits inside Should the main spring break the smaller saftey spring inside will keep the centerstand up so that the centerstand does not fall during riding causing an accident Bump pad wet with soapy water to install inside the hole in the stand Twist and push on the bump pad until the pad seats itself inside the hole Grease the post holes Grease the other post hole This is where you will install the center stand post goes inside that large hole and the spring hook in the upper smaller threaded hole I used Honda thread lock on the spring hook bolt I dont want it falling out The bolt is a 14mm bolt and the torque spec is 16 foot/lbs Dry fit This is the basic layout of the centerstand mechanism Here I am trying to install 1 of 2 washers on the right side washer 1 goes inside the right stand post hole 2 on the outside of same post hole I had difficulty holding the washer in place so I taped it in place with masking tape washer 1 taped into place I slid the post into the post holes fitting washer #2 was also a chore not much room with the headers there side the cotter pin into the hole in the post right side fingers or use a needle nose cotter pin goes here right side spreading out the cotter pin ends is difficult to reach a flat head screw driver did the job from the front on the right side of the bike installing the springs I used an old spring installer my Grandpa had for drum brakes - instructions call for two persons to install the springs The safety spring did not go on the first time needle nose pliers for that center stand.pdf