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Lucked into a crazy deal on a one-owner 1998/5th Gen yesterday and want to keep up with tech stuff. The gent (77) bought it new in 99 and has cared for it beyond what most people would, tons of documented preventive maintenance over the years and only 1k miles added to the clock since Covid. New to VFRs but not bikes in general, I've owned many brands since 2006 (drank the HD koolaid up until then). I can already tell that the factory seat and I will not play nicely together, otherwise I'm digging it!

You want to be able ride them easily. If not, look what our (deceased) club president did to his livingroom. https://www.motor.nl/video/motormuseum-in-je-huiskamer/

Well thanks to this thread, and Frogger and TT, I absolutely broke the bank last week and ordered a $63 CarPlay unit made in China by Camecho. Just finished the install so haven't ridden it yet but I have to say it all works quite nicely. Here's the (few) Cons, then the Pros, mostly as compared to my new doorstop, the 15 year-old Garmin Zumo: Cons: -The Zumo showed elevation, which was kind nice, but I'm sure I can find an app... -The Zumo was a quick (one second) disconnect. On this unit you have to unscrew the waterproof connection, which is on about a foot of cable attached to the unit. And when you screw it back on the inner piece must be aligned rotationally perfectly, probably not easy in the dark. But then again, it only costs $63, maybe I'll never remove it... Pros: -Well, it's CarPlay. I'm iOS, but even if you're Android you'll know that it does pretty much everything CarPlay does in your car. Pretty sweet. -Screen is excellent, great definition. I'll post more after a ride. -I hooked it up to the GPS power source Ducati provided but hid behind the bodywork, just as I had for the Zumo. I left a 2 amp fuse in the line just in case, probably overkill since it's fused anyway. I spent most of my install time just getting the wiring how I wanted, making sure the wires didn't foul movement at full lock, or get rubbed by any other part. -It paired w my phone in maybe 10 seconds. Paired and works seamlessly. -I'm not really a listen-to-music-while-riding guy, but maybe I'll install the Scala unit from my old Arai. We'll see. Hey, can't beat it for the price, 10% of the cost of my Zumo, not adjusted for inflation.

If you only had a little more height... What about going 2x3 high (3x2?) on one side to leave the full wall open on the other side?

'No' is not really what I wanted to hear, but reading on it sounds more like a 'maybe' to me! One option I have considered (but hoped to avoid) was to convert the cantilevered shelves into a 4-post rack. Unistrut is also available in deeper channels (61mm and 81mm), but that gets expensive real quick. 'Back-to-back' 41mm channels are also available. But using any of them for the verticals forces the workbenches away from the wall--and I don't know if just using those struts would solve the 'moment' issue in any case. A 4-post rack may be the least-worst solution. I'd still have to work out the number of posts-per-bike, but that should be a fairly straightforward load (4x) calculation--and that could still allow me to position large equipment underneath (such as a lathe) if it were located "between bikes", so to speak. * * * Okay, so I've now looked at commercial pallet racks and I think that may actually be the way to go. They are available here in a number of configurations, but most critically in 800mm deep versions with spans up to 3.6m! I have 7m of wall, so I could fit a six-post pallet rack with two 3.3m spans, each of which is designed to support 1,100kg. A fully laden VFR800 (the largest bike I would be racking) weighs less than 300kg, so I could store three of them with no issue--and only have one vertical post "in the way" down below. Something like this, but with the horizontal carriers moved all the way to the top. (I've read that the loading and stability of "one-level" pallet racks are much reduced, so I'd have to brace it to the walls, at least.) I'd also have to think about the shelf covering (if any)... Thanks for your insight--critical comments are in many ways more valuable than encouraging ones! Ciao, JZH

Have you tried Givi? They're right here in Charlotte, NC. Also one in U.K. https://www.givi.co.uk/

The only thing that sticks clutch plates together is cold oil and viscosity. My bikes never suffer from that, probably because they never sits still long enough. The clutch has an inner and an outer, where the fibre discs engage with the outer, driven from the crankshaft, and the steel discs engage with the inner and drive the gearbox input. When the engine is in neutral, the clutch spins as one unit, but when you drop into 1st gear with the clutch lever pulled, the inner will quickly stop and the outer carries on spinning, which is why there is often a bit of a clonk. I'd suggest letting the engine get up to a good operating temperature as that will give the clutch a chance to be bathed in nice hot oil. At that point I would shut off the engine and put the bike in gear with the clutch pulled, and then try rocking the bike back and forth to free up the sticky plates. If you need to get to it, clutch disassembly is no big deal but you will need a spare gasket and the patience to scrape off the old one without galling the mating surface. You can do it without dropping the oil, on the sidestand. Just don't drop foreign objects into the open sump...I just swing the case to the side and hang it up so I don't need to do anything with the ignition pulser wires. My 6th gen is below but the 5th is basically identical. Remove the 5 bolts and the clutch can be easily pulled apart, but use a torque wrench and go softly when rebuilding it.

Hey y’all, I recently picked up a 2005 VFR800 with 40k miles. It has some wiring issues and I don’t have the time to sort it out myself. Anyone know of any good techs in Houston we can trust? Quick notes: I just ordered the front wiring harness recall from Honda and they will replace it for free in a few weeks. I’m assuming I’m still going to have issues after that so I’d like to line someone up now, if possible. My dealer already said due to the age all they can do is the recall, nothing else. Previous owner recently installed the VFRness, new R/R and Stator. Thanks in advance!

Is your reg/rec flat on top of the fins, or curved? The original OEM ones were flat--as in pancake, like your battery will be if you rely on one! But, Honda upgraded its reg/recs at some point to the curved, or rounded fin version. I don't think they are MOSFET, but they may be less prone to failure than the original OEM reg/recs. Maybe you don't have a reason to panic! (FYI, I believe the SH847 Series-type reg/rec was OEM on Suzuki DL1000 Stroms). Ciao, JZH

Well I must say luck was on my side No fuel pooring today, fuel has swollen the O-rings so no leak anymore, great! The oil leak at clutch cover was gasket that had slipped off So just to relocate as tight back. Then the fairings was mounted, you gotta love new bolt's for them Then only one thing left, switch the rear wheel between my RC24's after the plastic was on Then to get a insurance as take it in road use and ride to petrol station for fuel as check air pressure (forgot that at home) And then to nice road's As a nice cafe Really enjoy the bike, some things to sort like fork over damped and front brake feel not the best but otherwise running like a champ! Some pictures from ride home from Cafe Really love this motorcycle

I found this video which describes the right hand switch disassembly and cleaning which could be needed if you have poor headlight connection. https://youtu.be/3_QMOKXJJmc?feature=shared I followed the video to be able to check the right switch assy. Some things weren't mentioned in the video: - to remove the switch assy from the bar i had to remove the brake lever. - i takes a large force to release the clipping feature that holds the right side light button on the switch body. You can see the why on the pic, snap feature is really stiff. Disassembly of the left side switch: Dimmer switch is just snapped in place and wasn't hard to get out after removing the cable strain relief and a fixation screw. you can see the soldering location for the blue/white feed wire which was broken off on my bike on below pic. This is what the left switch assy looked like before removing the dimmer switch: - i disassembled the passing button also to be able to remove the switch cover and gain better access for soldering. I struggled a bit during the removal so I am worried about getting it back together. Note: there's a spring and ball on the passing button for the tactile feel, this wants to escape and will be next to impossible to find if dropped. (Visible in lower right on pic)

It looks like there are good resources for "Beam Loads" and "Column Loads" for Unistrut at given spans online. The only worry I would have is it pulling out of the wall, or bending just below the 45 degree brace. If they are much taller than the bikes, you can run a piece of Unistrut or metal/wood beams across form side to side to prevent collapsing in on itself, and use those to hang your lighting. Although you are extremely thorough in everything I have ever seen you do, so you probably already have a way better plan than my quick brainstorm... Do post pics as you're building it, we need a good project here to keep us dreaming about our own work spaces! Is it too wet there for painted or epoxy floors?

I'm enjoying this thread, looking forward to all the other things you will figure out, and the final result. Are the elevated motorcycle "shelves" really just for display, or do you intend to walk downstairs one morning, decide which bike is perfect for a ride that day, bring it down and zoom off?

Webbike Japan lists these for USD79.

Also realize that with the relay in place, the only time the pump will operate is when it is being cranked or running (That ignition signal we talked about earlier). If the carbs are empty or need some filling, it will take a bit of cranking to get enough fuel in the carbs to start. Also I have found that if you are trying to prime a dry system (lines and pump) sometimes that fuel tank and petcock just won't "start" flowing even tho the pump is trying to pull some fuel. I sometimes have to put a rag around my air nozzle in the fuel filler opening and "pressurize" it just a little and then the fuel start flowing no problem. Good luck!

Unplug the relay and jump the black and black/blue wires with a wire at the female connector. With the key on, and the relay bypassed, the pump should operate. The colors of the three wires change some across the models, but I should be close. You can hurt anything trying different combos. If there is a yellow/red wire present, it should be the other two. Basically, when the yellow/red wire (or whatever it is on yours) is getting a signal from the ignition, it energizes the relay to allow 12v to the pump by "connecting" the other 2. Those are the two wires you are trying to jump. Report back.

I got Hepco and Becker. Can be done with or without top rack. I chose without. The racks, after initial installation, can be removed or installed in about 5 minutes or less.

I tend to worry about him if no new bike appears for say 3 months....

Tank looks great, both brake and clutch systems flushed less than 50 miles ago but was June 2024. Coolant was also flushed and changed at the same time. @mello dude I'll try to take some pics today, all I have taken are at night in the garage with shadows and such...because I need to finish wiring the garage and hanging the rest of the lights. (It's miserably hot on a ladder in there lately!)

If you anchor the feet of the racks, and anchor to the wall, you should be fine with an extra beam on the wall side lower down. Another general principle is to not exceed beam deflection by (beam length)/180".

+1. I kinda take Keny's posts for granted, but he is always buying, selling, riding, and improving bikes. Fun stuff.

Great advice by the dude, BLS and gaz. Do not just start a bike up in the middle of winter storage, twist the throttle a few times, and turn it off for another month, for the reasons described above. And even if you get that rare winter day and take it out for a quick spin, a five or 10 minute ride will not help, even if the temp gauge settles in to normal operating temperature. As mentioned, you need at least 20-30 minutes until the cases are too hot to touch in order to burn off/evaporate all that bad moisture in the crankcase. Sticking clutch plates are above my pay grade however, plenty of experts here on VFRD to help. Cheers.

Looks good keny!! The bike has come a long way.

Welcome from Houston! Post pics or it didn’t happen! Lol

Hi, i just bought a -97 VFR750F, originally imported to Sweden from Germany. I got 4 circuit schemes with the bike so i had to figure out the correct one. The bike variant is VFR750FV - so the 'G' for Germany electrical scheme is valid. This means that there's only one light relay and no headlight circuit breaking on the start button on this bike. The problem with the bike is that headlight won't come on but passing button works so light relay and ground is probably OK. I checked wiring with the circuit scheme and a multimeter, started on the right switch assy since this is a known issue but all was good there. Then i opened the left switch assy and voila! The blue/white wire feeding the dimmer button switch has broken off. Seems to be a soldering hack job by one of the previous owners. I tried to see where it's supposed to be but it's cramped in there, hard to get access and solder it properly so i'll have to disassemble it.

It shouldn't take too much time to take a bike "off the shelf", but I don't know if I will ever have the luxury of choice like that. I was thinking more about being able to take one down, prep and maybe do some work on it--as well as ride it for a while--before moving on to another one. Ciao, JZH

I sent SW files and prints the other day. I use SolidWorks Maker at home, and Professional at work. The Maker version is only 49 bucks a year, and totally worth it, being an industrial standard. I make all of my 3D printed or machined parts at home using SW.

You do realise this is a 15year old thread right !

I got it back together after some trials, dimmer switch goes back first, then passing switch is threaded back into its' hole and both are secured by the same screw. It wasn't too bad even with my fat fingers 😄

Hi - from my foggy memory....I think CBR500R bikes used the FH020AA....

What a fun project. From an engineering perspective, the closer you sit the bike to the vertical supports, the lower the bending moment on the cantilever will be. I do occasionally drive a counterbalance fork lift (I have a licence and everything!) and I can tell you that putting 1 tonne loads onto the third level of pallet racking takes some hand-eye coordination and a little nerve. You shouldn't have too many problems with your nifty lift truck as I expect the visibility will be much better. You will need to make sure the floor under your shelves is really smooth as the wheels look quite small.

Generally, Honda parts like that are bike-specific. That part number includes "MCW", which is the Parts Classification Number for the 6th gen VFR (VTEC), indicating that Honda originally designed that part to fit that bike. It is possible that they then spec'd the same part for other bikes (if so, the part number would not change), but unlikely. Ciao, JZH

The short answer is: You would not be the first motorcycle rider to inspect it for cracks, and if none found, put it in a vise and slowly bend it back into shape with a shifting spanner and maybe a pipe on the handle for leverage. Hopefully somewhere you have a photo of the bike to give you an idea of what the final product should look like. If not cracked but severely bent, you could do the same with heating it at the bend with a torch, but if you have not done this before, I would not recommend it as you can weaken the metal. Looking around, the 5th Gen and the 8th Gen pedals are different part numbers. Does not mean they would not work, but I have no personal knowledge having not swapped them. If you end up looking for a used one, as you are in the UK, you can try David Silver Spares. I bought a few things from them for my 91 VFR when I lived there. Good bunch. Homepage - David Silver Spares If all else fails, CMSNL over in the Netherlands, shows them ( Part number 46500MCWD00) for the princely sum of £120 plus shipping and I assume VAT. yikes. Honda Motorcycle Parts, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha Motorcycle Parts - ATV, Classic Bike, Dirt Bike Parts Hope this is of some help.

What is better than a afternoon ride after some vfr work in the garage, especially as weather is nice, 26°C at highest and sunny ☀️ 😎 This time to a other cafe that has a bit bigger road there, "the green hell" I call it, lots of small elevation change's as curves, shame half the road has a 60km/h restriction these days, your driver's license is sure out in the wind..... But still a delight to ride !

Couple things: "All fuses are good" Does that include the Main Fuse that is under a cover on the solenoid holder? I have to ask. Also, solenoids come in two styles and they are mirror images of each other. There is usually a "B" (Battery) and an "M" (Motor) molded into the plastic near the cable posts. If you got an opposite (and your original unit was really bad), you will need to re-pin the wires on the plug in the mirror image too. Also closely inspect the wires going into that plug. It is VERY common for those to be melted and burnt and can cause what you describe. Sometimes you don;t realize how bad it is until you really look close. Also, you can plug in your original solenoid just to see if you get any power again. Great choice in a VFR model and good luck.

So it's getting there, radiator on, fuel tank on Got new fuel filter as fuel lines between tank and pump Did just paint the upper thermostat housing that you mostly see, it was time for new bolt's as well Tomorrow I should get the new plug for the clutch cover, so could basically then fire up the bike as battery is charged. Need to get some fuel. If all goes well and it runs and no fuel pooring of carbs it needs fairings on still, and there is a thing to fix on upper fairing before mounting it So my plan to have it out during my 2 vacation weeks is getting a bit tight, but perhaps possible 🤞

It's a new project. But I'm determined. 99 vfr800. Bought it as a project and am tearing into it... bodies aren't terrible, needs a few misc parts... I'll check mileage when I plop a battery back in. As for pictures, I'm tryin to get those figured out

Oh what joy. Brake fluid flush time again. Good job I decided to pull the secondary master cyl to inspect/ clean the little green plastic return valve assembly, piston seals had let go & were weeping Dot 4 up the bore, rusty Schmoo had collected under the boot too. Poor design imho, no wonder Honda junked the idea a few yrs later. Anyhoo. Several lolly sticks / lint free cloth & a litre of brake cleaner later, she's nice n clean again, I also honed the piston bore, this shifted the brown rust deposits, I used a grey scotchbrite wrapped around my thread tap handle, approx M8 diameter, which proved a very effective way to get a good fine cross hatch hone in the piston bore, new Tourmax repair kit on order. I'm still amazed with the micro tech that's gone into the return valve. Wonder if anyone's drilled the return bigger, if so, any benefit or detriment to the braking?

Last Sept. I finally got my new to me 5th Gen in running order. Unable to find any hard bags for it I ended up building a pair if saddle bag supports for my soft bags. I used 5/16" - 8mm weldable rod for most of it, with some 1/4" - 6mm for the forward stays. Everything was cold bent on my 6" vise with a 3lb ball peen, then welded. They are easily removable with 4 fastenings per side. I used them on a 3,000 mile trip that Fall and worked well. I did think though that a six pack rack would be helpful. Not finding anything available for the 5th Gen, and having trips to VA, TN, NC, then 4 days after that up to New Brunswick and the Cabot Trail in Nova Scotia in May, I figured I'd have a go at making a serviceable six pack rack a shot. Again I used 5/16" - 8mm rod for the frame and some 5/8' - 16mm X 1mm flat for the slats. I piggybacked off the Saddlebag supports to make it easier to mount, and threaded the rod at the forward end to adjust the rack, but also make it removable. The cable clamps on the aft lower are for the same reason. I can remove the rack in less than 2 minutes, but it is strong enough that a buddy and I lifted the back of the bike off the ground with it. 2 trips and just under 5,000 miles this May, and it has indeed proved useful. I'm a form follows function guy, so I'm not bothered if its less than elegant. Besides, there's so little in the way of luggage options for the 5th Gen that I had to figure out something if I wanted to go touring The last pic was taken around the 20th of May at Rouses Point NY as I was returning from NC etc. I generally will go up to the Quebec Border and turn right to get back home. This eliminates going through CT and MA, a far more relaxing way to enter Maine.

I don't see a "non-machine shop" way of solving this problem, unfortunately. From the installation instructions and the picture on the Scotts website, it looks like the damper mounting bracket is supposed to sit flush on top of the top clamp, but your VFR's top clamp is not flat. Assuming the raised surface would be able to adequately support that bracket, yes, a machinist should be able to turn an extended nut (with the groove) which would allow the damper mounting bracket to sit flush on top of the top clamp. You might also need to raise the tank flange bracket to match the new position of the top clamp bracket, but that should only require some alloy spacers of the correct thickness. (You might also ask Scotts why they didn't make one for this model, considering they've had 10+ years to do so...) For the new custom steering stem nut, I would probably choose stainless as the material, but I'm not the one who has to work it! Good luck. Ciao, JZH

Cool Idea! I'm personally not sold on steering dampeners just yet, but more power to ya! If you figure this out it would be valuable to the forums for sure!

The citric/soda/soap solution will take care of that rust no problem, and will not touch the paint. Before & after 24 hour soak:

Not sure if you figured it out but I think this is what you are looking for ? Hose from bottom of throttle bodies attaches just below the electrical plug.

TL/DR: If you’re getting Shad luggage for your 6th gen VFR, you need to get a top case if want to build a tail rack, their soft side luggage system won’t work on the 6th gen VFR, and you’ll want the side opening hard cases if you’re running a top case too. Also, be prepared to add some extra signal lights. I recently bought a full set of Shad side case racks, top rack, and soft saddle bag supports. My initial intention was just to get the racks to make for better tie down points for soft luggage that I already had. Ultimately, due to the fit of the racks to the 6th gen VFR specifically, and after one frustration after another, I ended up getting hard side cases and a top case. Before I get into, I want to clarify that although I hit a number of frustrations with Shad’s products, I am ultimately very pleased at the final result. It still isn’t perfect, but life is full of compromises. I chose the Shad rack system largely because the previous owner of my VFR installed a fender eliminator, and the Shad system was the only system I could find that didn’t seem to use the stock fender as a mounting point. As a result of this design, I feel it’s one of the more inconspicuous rack designs, especially the side racks. I’m coming from a position of making my VFR a more capable commuter, and the occasional long-distance sport-touring. I run smaller saddlebags and a largeish, but far from massive sized sissy bar bag on my other bike, which has proven invaluable in general usability of the bike. I did run a large tail tunnel bag on the VFR for long time, but mounting and dismounting, although far from difficult, was kind of tedious. Additionally, I didn’t have any storage options other than a backpack and a tank bag if I ever took my wife for a ride on the VFR, since the tunnel bag mounts over the passenger seat. I also was leaning towards soft luggage in consideration of lane splitting. Soft saddle bags tend to be slimmer, and in the off event that I a bag rubs against a car (we are talking about CA drivers here), it less like to cause significant damage to the car, and the bags will most likely be unscathed. Unfortunately, with the way Shad’s racks fit the VFR, soft luggage isn’t really an option without some fabrication on your own. Top case/rack: Starting with the top case racks, they’re more like mounts… The top case mounts replace the grab handles beside the passenger seat, as two separate, larger, looped grab handles, with mounting points for a Shad top case. The mounts don’t connect at the rear to form a rack, and you’re pretty much required to buy one of Shad’s top cases, which come with their respective platforms. Shad cases utilize two different sized platforms, depending on which case you have. It is possible to order one of the platforms by themselves, to complete the whole rack assembly, but I went ahead and went full tilt and ordered their expandable 58X top case, which is excellent. Soft bag supports: I also ordered the soft bag supports, but what I didn’t realize when I ordered them (nor was it clearly shown by Shad), is that the supports mount to the TOP case racks, which run along side the seat, and over the turn signal light housings. It is IMPOSSIBLE to mount the soft bag supports on the 6th gen VFR. Further, the soft bag supports are cut to fit only on the top case racks, and do not fit on the side racks. So, ultimately, you’ll have to use Shad’s hard cases all the way around for the 6th gen VFR. Side Cases: I went with the Shad SH23 (top opening) side cases, trying to keep the overall profile of the bike as narrow as possible. I also prefer saddlebags that open at the top as opposed to the side for ease of loading/unloading. Unfortunately, the top opening cases are partially impeded by the top case (at least for the wider top cases). There’s enough flex in the plastic, where you can work the corner around the top case to open and close them, but it did make me scratch my head at the lack of polish. Brake Lighting: I did buy the additional LED brake light that mounts under the top case to compensate for the partial obstruction of my tail/brake lights. I also replaced my running/brake lights with LEDs. The Shad brake light is not a running light, and only comes on as a brake light. Also, it’s not really all that bright. It’s visible in daylight, but they’re more on par with the brightness of the stock incandescent running/brake light bulbs. I’m glad I bought the extra lights, but by simply changing the stock tail light bulbs with LEDs’ would probably be sufficient to compensate for the obstruction from the cases. Turn signal lighting: The side cases mount in such a way that they completely obstruct the turn signals from the sides of the back, and are really only visible if you are completely behind the bike. Admore lighting has some lighting solutions for some of Shad’s top cases and side cases, just not the cases I bought. Most likely I’m going to order a pair of LED strips to mount on the sides of the side cases, and splice them in with some sort of quick disconnect wiring rig. I’m also going to replace the both the front and rear turn signals with LED’s sooner rather than later. I planned to replace all the stock bulbs with LEDs as they burned out, but in the essence of safety, I definitely want to prioritize visibility since the cases significantly impair the turn signal light visibility. I plan on making an overview video in the near future, and will add it to the thread for reference.

As another that owns both, my $.02 is that it's maybe more a question of "what are your preferences and priorities" vs "is one better than the other"? You have to weigh the differences between them based on what's most important to you. The main absolute differences are that if you want factory luggage and / or ABS, you'll need a 6th gen which can be a real value for a bike that you can pick up for about $4,000. If you want the GDC's, you have to go 5th. I can ride either just as readily and have ridden both long distances. Past that things become more subjective depending upon intended use and personal preferences and abilities. I like that my '99 does not have a wax unit to cause trouble, a cat or cam chain tensioners that can fail. In an ideal world I'd take the two and meld them together keeping what I like best about both. Several years ago there was a post from someone, I think in Ohio that did essentially that. Actually in my ideal world Honda would still be producing the 5th gen - ah well. As I think of the two, while I like my 6th gen and will probably sell it as the miles pile up, I love my 5th gen and do not intend to ever part with it. I plan to leave it on the center stand in my garage and let it remind me of all the fun rides I had on it. YMMV.

Hello All, Cleaned up the pitted pistons on a set of Nissin radial calipers from a Triumph Speed Triple (being fitted to the 5th Gen front end conversion). Process is the same whatever calipers you have. Pistons removed and you can see the corroded/filthy bits on the exposed portion of the piston lip. The exposed takes all the hearing/cooling/salt spray abuse and are not protected by the caliper. No surprise they look like sh!t. Dirty pitted one on the left. Polished one on the right. Pitted big piston on top. Method: lay some old material (denim works best) on a flat surface, apply some metal polish (I used Autosol) and rub the piston up-and-down along the corroded section. See the black streak in the picture above. This is really smooths down the burrs and the phosphoric acid in the polish helps the newly exposed metal form a protective oxide layer. Pitting will never be completely removed but it certainly gets smoother. Piston on the left was dangerously pitted and could easily have ripped a seal if pushed into the caliper. Now it is brought back into serviceable shape. Next, clean off the polish residues with brake cleaner and apply a dab of superglue on the worst pits. Superglue will adhere to the new oxide layer (and any remaining rust) to protect the areas where chrome has failed. Let the superglue dry for at least an hour as it takes ages when left open like this. Then run a new razor blade over the glue to remove the blobs that stick out. Scrape it both ways. Final rub down on a clean cloth to smooth everything out and you’re done! Good for another season. Caveat: a pitted piston will not be improved by this method - it will only get wise with time. Also, don’t rub too much of the existing chrome away as you will end up with failures elsewhere soon. Always install with a good amount of silicone grease/brake paste to prolong protection. I wonder why we still use steel pistons when anodised alloy and even better, plastic, could be used to better effect. Hope this helps someone out. Best, Stray