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Just got my hands on a 2007 VFR. It came with saddlebags and a few other goodies. For the couple days I've had it, I love it so far. Only problem I've ran into so far is the aftermarket cruise control module on it won't set, but thats a project for another day. I found some things that came with the bike noting this forum from 2015, so figured I would check it out. Previous owner said the bike has been loved by many people in the past.

Friend bought a clean 2008 last weekend. Called me last night and said it came with a "box of parts" he didn't want or need. Some old forks, seat cowl and pegs and stuff. Made him an offer he accepted and he brought them over this morning. Had to hide my grin when I saw these forks because I usually miss getting goodies like this. 😁

I was really looking forward to seeing her on this forum again! That's my old girl. The name came one evening after days of traveling in the mountains and I was feeling her heft. She didn't get heavier, I got older. That bike has about every aftermarket mod you could do to a VFR except Seb's clear clutch cover(hint). I think I still have the instructions for the cruise. The owner/designer sent them to me when I contacted him about it not working. He was great to help. If you look in the TMAC threads here, you will see plenty of pics and links to video with Ol'Heavy. She may be a little chunky, but she can dance. BTW, I did not build the bike, I bought it that way. MarriedMan built it if he's still on the forum.

More parts. Big ones are a new 6th gen water pump and a flywheel from a 2007. It was nice to get spark plugs in. as3 shorted me on some hose clamps. They responded quickly, and those clamps cleared customs today. Getting the radiator and some hoses installed feels good. I ordered a 6th gen thermostat housing off eBay. We will see if that fits.

It is one and the same. The guy in Florida bought it for his wife and she found it too big. He had it about a year. I got it from him and had it until a little over a year ago. The only reason I got out is that I got old and found that a lighter more upright bike makes me faster. I notice that my garage still list her as (Still for sale). That bike has great stories to tell.

I assume that will be an MC cruise unit if it is vacuum operated. If so, they're in Australia but aside from that I have heard positive things about their support. https://mccruise.com/product/cruise-control-for-honda-vfr800f-v-tec-interceptor-2002-2013-high-exhaust-pipes-vac_upgrade/

That's "Ole Heavy". I almost bought it last year but it was too many hours away and I had just bought a Blackbird. Lots of tasteful mods on that VFR. Previous owner ( or 2 ago ) told me the cruise control vacuum *model* needed to be cleaned. Hence the non functioning. An effect of not using the cruise plus ethanol fuel.

I had a little detour. Tired of using levers, scratching rims or being very careful not to at times using my harbor freight tire changer I decided to upgrade it. I wrapped the rim grips and bead breaker with leather. I wouldn’t commit to drilling floor anchors because they will never be in an ideal place in my shop. I got a no mar mounting tool which will require the floor to be attached to the stand. I have room in another shed to store the stand. Since I took these pictures I found a thread here about bolt the post clamp spools. They are on the way. Some parts came. The forks won’t be back for several weeks. Some rigging is done to keep things moving along. Having successfully done surgical work with a mini sledgehammer for years, I sprung for proper tools to remove bearings. The sprocket hub bearing had some wear. The wheel hub ball bearings felt great even while looking a bit dirty inside. The needle bearing looks good still getting replaced. Time to work outside while more parts are on the way.

Just a little bit last night. I pulled the clutches and they look great. I got the left heated grip and Throttlemeister bar end installed. I use a liberal amount of epoxy to install heated grips. I also lightly scratch up the inside of the grip and lightly draw a a few streaks with a dremel grinding wheel across the handlebar to in case that helps the expoxy have little places to pool. it was late enough and I was satisfied enough that I let the right side wait for today.

Click on Sweepers profile picture and that's the same motorbike.

Went to put the registration info in the seat and found a bag labeled 'sweeper's camera mount' holding old registration info if we weren't already sure it's the same bike haha

Minor update: I have been going through the bike and tidying it up. There's a lot to do... After all, it has been parked for many years, and whilst it is quite clean, I've discovered some rusty and corroded parts. I've also decided to improve upon my wiring (which has improved substantially since I've done so much re-wiring on my Hiace van). But, on the maintenance side, I don't even know when the valves were last done. Actually, I can say they have definitely not been done since I fitted the supercharger. I know this because I have discovered that it is impossible to open the front valve cover without removing the compressor and many of its components. If I had the valve covers open I guess I could figure out where TDC is (after pulling the plugs), but that's the only option unless I remove the crank pulley adapter, which I believe requires the removal of the clutch cover... So, as you can guess, I've decided I'm not touching the valves during this "service"! I'll have enough to do, anyway. For example, the stem bearings were shot--I have never felt such a pronounced "notch" before on any bike. Part of that was probably due to solidified grease and the bike sitting for many years, but it wasn't a good sign. As I'm not doing the forks now, I am sacrificing a set of bearings (which will not be swapped onto the 929/954 lower triple), but that'll be worth it to avoid additional RDW inspection hassles about the brakes and the de-linking. I'm not looking forward to bleeding the linked brakes, but I have done it before. I also need to put on the new tires and put in the new fluids, and then we'll see if she starts... ...but I expect, like the last time, one or more of the fuel injectors will be stuck closed! Ciao, JZH

The way I see it, you can in fact still filter/ lane split. You are just going to be in the market for new hard bags. A lot. 🙂 Nice work, I hope the new owner appreciates your diligence in making the bike right. Fork seals are one of those things that get ignored when a bike is being sold because of cost for a shop to do it or the inconvenience of taking the front end apart. PersonallyI don't mind doing mine, gives me a chance to check other things out "while I'm in there". When I was working on sail boats, I was the one who ended up repairing/ servicing all our hydraulics, back stay rams, vangs, outhaul cylinders, etc. The pressures were far greater on the boats, but the basics were similar.

That's nutz.....It may be the same bike I helped MarriedMan do an update on the charging system. That's got to be 10+ years ago.... If it has a R/R mount plate with a FH020... its the one. Supposidly he sold it to a guy in Florida, but it could be you, Sweeper... Very cool!

MC is correct via conversation with PO when I was looking to buy it. "...... McCruise electric cruise control. The cruise vacuum model needs to be cleaned. It's pretty straight forward but requires the fairings off. If you don't use it regularly, they will stick(why I'm not cleaning them). According to the designer, its our ethenal gas, I never spent any time on straight roads so it didn't get used.... "

Yes shims are a standard diameter of 7.48mm across many bikes and brands, the only exception I have come across was for my VTR1000F which used a bigger diameter. OEM shims come in finer 0.025mm gradations (1 thou), whereas aftermarket shims are in 0.05mm (2 thou) increments, so you may not have too much choice when it comes to getting into spec. For example if your intakes are at 4 thou and should be between 5 and 7, then dropping 2 thou (0.05mm) on a shim will get to 6 (in spec), but you won't be able to get to 7 unless you had an OEM shim. It's been a while since I reshimmed my 5th gen but shims around 1.65-2.10mm come to mind. I have both digital callipers and and a micrometer but honestly the callipers are a lot more idiot proof and perfect for shims. That torque wrench ( I own the same one, and its bigger brother) is too manly for the torque needed in the head which is just 10 or 12 N-m. I have a 1/4" drive torque wrench which covers that range nicel (I think it does 6-25 or something). Be especially careful torquing the cam cover bolts as if you over do those, you snap the casting in the head. Any old imperial feeler gauge set will do; this isn't NASA. I wouldn't even consider taking the head off unless there was low compression. Then that level of investigation would be warranted. The picture shows the rear head on my 5th gen, and the paint mark on the gear teeth and adjacent saddle. But there are really good marks on the sides of the gears that make lining it all up easy enough with the crank in the correct position. Always rotate the engine by hand after reassembly and don't force anything, that is a good check for mechanical happiness, along with an extra check on the timing marks.

I did the same adjustment on my VTR (which I sold and now miss a bit...) and it was a very sweet-running engine. Some report carb-farts at idle and occasional stalls with the VTR but I never had any of that. It is always a comfort when riding to know that all the bits that can be adjusted, are optimised (and in your case, very clean!). I found the VTR to be a much more relaxed engine at low revs than the 5th gen VFR which needs a few more revs on board to feel happy. I think the TPS in this case is used to make small adjustments to ignition timing.

Poking around the net I found potential good news about the charging system. The voltage reading on the lithium ion battery will be lower, 13.4 and stays flat as rpm increases. The stator will probably be ok when I do a running check. The battery that showed 2 volts a couple weeks ago after attempting to charge went up to 6.5v while not on the charger. I peeled the inspection stickers. They skipped from 2020 to 2025. 1100 miles. For a bike that seemed pretty rideable this looks like a mild rescue project. I am pretty much at the peak of disassembly now with some parts coming next week. Valve clearance passed, hurray. I did not like the aftermarket levers that came with the bike. I had a spare VFR lever. Have to order a brake lever. I prefer a shorter reach clutch lever than stock. I grind a little bit off by the adjuster to get in closer. My St1300s all have VFR lever done this way.

IN THE BEGINNING (which was December 2008), I purchased a California-spec Y2K VFR800Fi as the bike on which to install an A&A supercharger kit (aka "Torocharger"). I was never a big fan of the the 5th-gen VFR, but had ridden them in the past and respected them as very good bikes, but when I started to read about Dan's development of the "Torocharger" on VFRD I was so impressed that I decided I just had to buy the kit as soon as it became available--and a suitable bike to fit it on! I've already got a couple of red VFRs, so I was happy that my research indicated that the "Y2k" yellow model (in the USA) would be perfect for my needs. Soon enough, a fellow member of the venerable VF/VFR Mailing List mentioned that his was for sale on Craigslist, and I flew up to San Jose, helmet in hand... Brett's RC46-RHS This was the bike essentially as purchased by me. Brett's RC46-LHS Hmmm. Looks like those wheels could use a bit of a clean... My Y2K came with a perfectly decent Staintune slip-on, but at some point I decided that such a special bike really needed a special underseat exhaust, so I posted a plea for help on VFRD, which was soon answered by sa1713 (Jim), who was instrumental in getting Dan Dreisbach (http://www.naked-scu....com/index.html) to weld-up a custom y-pipe for me to use with my Erion headers and Laser Xtreme end cans. Many thanks, Jim! These two significant mods occupied most of my free time during my recent two-week vacation in California. At the same time I installed some silicone water hoses and fitted a Power Commander V and Autotune unit. I also generally cleaned everything as I ecountered it--including what seemed to have been about eight years' worth of chain lube spooge all over the LHS of the bike... I've also got a pile of other cool parts and mods waiting to go onto this bike, but wisely decided not to try to do EVERYTHING at once--just a more manageable several things at once! Anyway, this is what $950 buys you these days (Laser Xtreme end cans not included!): RC46 Laser Dreisbach Erion Package Y My Laser underseat system and undertray, fabricated by Dan Dreisbach. (The Lasers are not even because I asked Dan to leave the final trimming of the tubes to me, once I had decided how much I wanted the exhaust to protrude from the rear of the bike.) RC46 Laser Dreisbach TBR In Fixture (Jim This shows the jig made by Dan Dreisbach to duplicate Jim's Laser underseat y-pipe. (This photo actually shows Jim's TBR exhaust--my Erion was very similar, but the outlet was about 50mm longer, and had to be cut-down.) With this jig, Dan can make as many similar y-pipes as he wants. Too bad the number of people with TBR or Erion full systems and Laser Xtreme end cans handy is somewhat limited! I imagine if other exhausts could be provided to him, he could probably fabricate other underseat exhausts as well, but I don't know for sure about that. The Erion full system was purchased via eBay from Dynojet Research (of all sellers!) a couple of years ago. I suspect they had used it to dial-in their Power Commander map for the RC46-I and then put it on a shelf. So, after dithering a bit, selling a house, putting the bike in storage for nine months, buying another house and messing with that for a while, it was time to get down to business with the VFR: P1020921x Starting to strip the bike down for the installation adventure... A freshly powder coated RC36-I rear wheel almost goes w/o saying on a project like this! (The RC51 SP1 front wheel in the background was done at the same time, for some strange reason.) P1020930x The entire left side of the bike was covered in chain spooge and gravel. (Photo taken AFTER degreasing with GUNK or equivalent.) Fortunately, I just love cleaning chain lube spooge. P1020932x Countershaft and sprocket area cleaned and ready for the installation of the new OEM front sprocket, DID chain, new OEM rubber chain guide, Sidewinder titanium alloy 43T rear sprocket and Penske shock. Ah, that's better. (Still need to clean the insides of the fairings--oh, joy!) Despite the fact that nobody will ever see them, I decided to fit mega-bling blue silicone water hoses to the bike. There are no kits for this bike that I am aware of, but inspired by this post by IDA71 on the UK-based Honda VFR Club, I decided to wring a few more pounds out of the credit card and ordered up all of the bulk hoses I needed. Oddly, the hoses are generally cheaper in the UK than in the USA, so I bought them before I came over to California and brought them with me. Because I was installing them on a bike with an A&A supercharger kit, I needed to order three more 45-degree elbows (two for the oil cooler and one for the blow-off valve) and generally ordered a bit more of each of the straight hoses, just in case. (If I had to do it again, I might also order the missing bits noted below.) P1020972x Fitting the silicone hoses to the left-hand side of the engine. I should point out that the smaller blue hose (which runs from the pump to the thermostat housing) ultimately needed to be clamped much closer to the engine so that the overflow bottle would fit properly. The one OEM rubber hose visible in the photo below goes to the "fast-idle wax unit", which is only found on the Y2k and 2001 models, and I did not change it for silicone because the bend was too tight and I hadn't ordered a 90-degree or 180-degree elbow and joiner to replace that hose. Oh, well! (Didja notice the cool rubber hose clamp "jackets"?) P1020978x Top of the engine, within the vee, showing some of the silicone hoses. As you can see, the silicone hoses are a throttle body-off job, so it made a certain amount of sense to install them at this point, rather than after all of the forced induction gubbins had been levered into the frame. In case you're wondering, my sources for these hoses were AP MotorStore and Demon Tweeks (for the 25mm billet Samco hose joiner) in the UK, and I also ordered some missing bits and silicone vacuum lines from Flex Technologies in Torrance, California. Then it was on to the supercharger install... I can report that the supercharger and all of its related plumbing _just_ barely fits! P1020980x A&A Supercharger kit being installed--just installed the throttle bodies back onto the engine. Dan (Toro1) highly recommends having the fuel injectors professionally cleaned before installing the supercharger, so I actually bought a spare set of throttle bodies on eBay in the UK, pulled the injectors and had them cleaned some time ago. P1020982x A&A Supercharger kit being installed--the spacers go between the throttle bodies and the top plate. P1020983x A&A Supercharger top plate, as modified for a Y2k VFR (the temperature sensor has to be relocated from the center of the plate, due to the fast-idle wax unit otherwise causing interference). P1020989x A&A Supercharger top plate. P1020992x Shows the Rotrex's output--as I said, it's a bit of a tight fit! Subsequent adjustment allowed it to squeeze in there without distortion. P1020994x Top rear of the engine. Shows the K&N breather, the relocated rear-cylinder coils and the PAIR valve block-off plates (among other things!) I ended up swapping the No. 1 and No. 4 coils, because the spark plug wire for the No. 4 cylinder was a bit short, once the Rotrex was installed. I had noticed that the No. 1 spark plug wire was a bit long, so swapping them worked out perfectly. The OEM spark plug wires actually have "1" and "4" marked on them in white, but a few dabs from a black Sharpie should eliminate any subsequent confusion! P1020996x Above front of the engine. This photo was taken just before the installation of the Rotrex oil reservoir. The supercharger pumps and uses its own dedicated oil supply, so that means a separate reservoir (and maintenance schedule) is required. (Special oil, too!) All supplied in the A&A kit, though. P1020999x Top front of the engine at the end of Part 1. The K&N air filter (with "pre-charger" sock) attaches to the Rotrex supercharger, but it squeezes right up against it (and is actually slightly deformed by the valve cover). To say it's a "tight fit" is one hell of an understatement... P1030003x Test-fitting of the blow-off valve. P1030013x A&A Supercharger (almost) fully installed. What's missing are the Rotrex oil lines, which go to and from the cylindrical oil reservoir in front of the "airbox". It looks like it might have been better to attach the lines to the Rotrex unit prior to its installation, because doing it at this point would be very tricky without removing things to get access (and re-torquing various bolts and re-tensioning the belt). It might be possible to get the lines on without doing that, but I haven't yet tried that. The only other significant supercharger install steps necessary from this point relate to the fitting of the upgraded fuel pump (naturally, supplied in the A&A kit) into the fuel tank, loading the Power Commander maps and hitting the starter button... P1030014x A&A Supercharger crank drive... P1030011x Left front of the engine at the end of Part 1. P1030017x Right front of the engine at the end of Part 1. Let's take a look at the Laser underseat install. Jim's RC46 Laser underseat system was completed last year, but I'd had a couple of sets of Laser Xtreme end cans sitting around the workshop for some time, purchased with a view to installing them on my UK-based FP (as shown in that thread). However, the custom welding was always the sticking point, so they never got installed. But I did like the look, so when Jim responded to my "WTB" thread with a link to his install thread, I was hooked! There are several versions of Laser Xtreme CBR600RR exhausts, with mine having been made for the '05-'06 model [."]http://shop.laserexh..._CBR600RR.pdf]. They are helpfully stamped with the appropriate homologation numbers and symbols (though that is somewhat irrelevant in the 'States), even though these particular end cans are supposed to be used with a separate resonance chamber and a pair of "road legal" inserts (oops...) However, Dan Dresibach welded-up some inserts of his own for me to experiment with, should I choose to muzzle any of the exquisite Honda V4 music in the future. Initially I had some trouble getting the end cans to mount high enough, which was caused by the y-pipe contacting the bottom of the right side of the undertray, but a simple modification I did to the undertray solved that. The final installation steps will be to (carefully) mark and drill the holes and cut the spacers supporting the end cans from the top. I didn't want to rush this step, as I will only really have one good shot to get it perfect. P1030041x Test-fitting of the Lasers, showing the front/side brackets Dan welded on (awaiting final fitting and drilling of the holes). P1030039x Clearancing of the undertray to clear the y-pipe. P1030031x This is the stainless heat shield Dan devised to keep the undertray cool. It was originally riveted and separated from the aluminum undertray by washers. I had to remove it (and fit additional washers) to clear the button-head cap screws I used to mount things to the top of the undertray (e.g., the battery box and the Penske reservoir). I hope it will still work! P1030035x Another shot of the Lasers' rear mounts, which will attach to the stainless steel plate above, using the captive nut brackets mentioned below. P1030030x Intermediate shot of the undertray, showing the trimmed side (back of the shot) and the side yet to be trimmed in the foreground. I had noticed that the sides of the aluminum undertray would be visible at certain angles, and it was not necessary to have them so long, so I trimmed them back a little bit--cutting a template out of card stock and using that to mark both sides. P1030024x This is a prototype of a rear fairing support idea. They willl attach to the new stainless steel plate I fitted to the rear of the undertray. After a horrible experience making a stainless steel custom undertray for my FP, I absolutely loathe working with the stuff, but I decided it was necessary to use stainless for these parts. McMaster-Carr made it all so easy (but not particularly cheap!) to order stainless steel stock, as well as the hose clamps and most of the A2 stainless fasteners I used. As I've eliminated the OEM plastic read fender entirely (well, except for the battery box I carved out of it!) the two locating lugs in the taillight housing have nothing to fit into, so brackets like these will support it instead. The locating lugs actually may be more to locate the taillight than support the fairing, but I think it's a good idea to pull everything together using the OEM mounting points/lugs. P1030034x The Lasers will mount to the stainless steel plate above, using the captive nut brackets Dan fabricated and welded onto them. (Unfortunately, sized perfectly for UNC nuts! I will have to grind down some M8 nuts to make them fit.) One reason I didn't drill the mounting holes was because I had to find the right stainless steel fasteners to go with those captive nut holders... I decided to use 55mm M8 fully threaded cap screws in conjunction with several locking nuts in order to achieve a degree of adjustability and sufficient support. (Looking at the nuts again, I think both of the middle ones should be locknuts.) I would have preferred socket caps, but could not find them fully-threaded, and I need the thread to accomplish the adjustment. M8 stainless "allthread" would have worked, too. P1030063x M8x55 A2 stainless steel fully threaded cap screw & nut arrangement for supporting the rear of the Lasers P1020947x Laser underseat y-pipe, fabricated by Dan Dreisbach (and polished by Jim!). P1020948x Laser underseat pipework. P1020961x Top of the undertray, showing cut-down battery box, Penske reservoir, PowerCommander V and Autotune. The undertray's location was determined by the clearance necessary for the Lasers, and doesn't leave much space under the seat, but all of the electronics fit, as well as the Penske remote unit, the tool kit and even the lug wrench, extension and owner's manual. The battery box was cut out from the OEM rear fender and attached to the alloy undertray with two M5 button-head cap screws. It actually rests on the subframe crossbar, so apart from the angle (which is close), the battery effectively sits in the OEM position. I've also got a Corbin Smuggler (single seat w/trunk), which pretty much color-matches the rest of the bike, but the fit is apalling. Something's warped--and I'm not sure what or who... Dan also welded a bung into the final collector section of my Erion headers, into which the Autotune sensor fits. I intend to set-up the fueling using Dan's PCIII maps, converted to PCV format, and not hook-up the Autotune until I have a good base map for the supercharger. After that, it may be useful--or for sale! P1020965x Dynojet Power Commander Autotune sensor installed in Erion header (custom location) So, this is how the bike currently sits in my California garage: P1030052x Right-front of the bike at the end of Part 1. P1030049x Left-rear of the bike at the end of Part 1. P1030050x Right-rear of the bike at the end of Part 1. P1030048y Some things to come. RC51 SP1 forks, lower triple, axle, spacers and wheel, 900RR yellow mudguard (same color code as the Y2k VFR) and 929/954 upper triple clamp. Lurking behind is my prototype xenon retrofit headlamp. Sometimes, I do finish my motorcycle projects... ...but not this time! This is end of Part I of this story; sadly, family and other commitments meant that I simply ran out of time and decided it would be best not to rush the last couple of supercharger install steps and break-in, or the finalisation of the Laser underseat install. Part II will follow in a few months, when I return to California, and will include (hopefully) a running bike, as well as a "Frankenviffer" RC51 SP1 fork conversion and (possibly) my Xenon retrofit headlight conversion. Perhaps then we shall all see just how dangerous is the Yellow Peril... Ciao,

I only got to ride this 94 miles before the weather ended the 2025 riding season. Good thing I got in 11,000 miles on my ST1300s. With those made ready for next year I got the VFR into the shop before it snowed too much. Yesterday I fitted helibars. Today I mounted the racks and bags that came the sale. Nice. Sitting here wondering how far do I go maintenance wise. Brake pads are new. Brake and clutch line fluid is clean, the wheels spin freely. Normally it would be complete overhaul of cylinders with new rubber. maybe next winter. The clutch mc boot is broken. That will get rebuild kit. No known valve clearance checks with 54,300 miles and told probably not. I act like I am thinking about it but I will almost certainly go in there. The night I rode I noticed that the headlight brightness did not change with rpm. Voltage was about a flat 13.1v. Another thing, the key apparently needed some jigging to start the bike then all ok until next key on. Then the lithium ion battery was low from sitting a few weeks. Accidentally charged it for 5 minutes in lead acid mode. Ran back, changed lithium ion mode and find it only has and only achieves 2v. Put a battery from an ST1300, fired up with no extra key wiggles. Ok. I see it has a same style but not original R/R I have been down this road before with my previously owned Blackbirds and VFRs. I see a new stator, 847 R/R and battery in my future. 28 years old. Just do the coolant hoses? Height adjuster on the Penske shock was loose. Does not inspire confidence in previous mechanic. Front brake line clamp under triple clamp not tight. Looks like I’ll be checking everything. I need a lighter spring. Do I learn how to rebuild the shock or luxuriate by having Traxxion do it? I’ll probably have them set it up for me initially then consider doing rebuilds myself. Still, overall the bike looks fairly well ridden and taken care of. I am very happy to have this bike. Time to look under the hood.

Bought a new TomTom unit. It came with a RAMmount kit... Away ta fuck pals! I know, I know... no GunsPoliticsReligion here.... After throwing away a pin I wore since 1993, I also "modded" my winterjacket... The world is bang out of order... Pun intended.

I use a tiewrap...

McGyvered this 6 years ago when I got her. It needs a bit more now I will leave the spare header+box sey in the attic a bit longer. Fingers xssed!

Welcome!

I FINALLY got around to starting to service my CT today. You know how life gets in the way, well this last year has been really busy but now that I am retired, I have the time to spare without it impinging on other important things so I started work on her today. A 2020 1200X, she had <900 genuine miles when I bought her a year ago and had been serviced annually by the dealer she was purchased from, but they were only Annual Services so I am having to complete all the time-based services. That includes replacing the engine oil & oil filter, air filter, bleeding the brakes, changing the final drive oil and coolant. As the tank was raised for the air filter I took the opportunity to run a USB port from the Healtech Thunderbox under the seat to the headstock to power the netbook I'll be using for sat nav. Then I'll be able to start fitting the rest of the farkles before she's ready for full use - crash bars, oil cooler guard, aux lights, louder horn, brackets for the larger panniers (OEM ones will be up for sale once I've decided that I prefer the larger ones). The seat has already gone to Top Sellerie in France for an upgrade. At some point she'll go in to my local suspension guru, Darren, at MCT Susupension near Stowmarket for an upgrade too. He worked on my 1200F and it transformed the bike so this is money well spent IMO.

I've never had the confidence to attempt the forks but now I know how easy it is I'll definitely have a go again.

Hello. It's time to sell my bike. 2014 vfr800 deluxe. 53,000 miles. Full bags, lithium battery, bar risers, ixil exhaust, new tires last year, garmin GPS, kaoko throttle lock, givi touring windshield, always well maintained. Coolant changed twice, brake fluid flushed every other year, regular oil changes, etc. I've ridden it out west three times, up Pike's Peak, tail of the dragon, ironbutt saddlesore 1000, etc. I did drop it once in my driveway, resulting is a scratched left side pannier, and a very small scratch on the fairing. Bikes in really good shape, as you can tell, I love my vfr. I just have had life changes, and won't be riding for a while. I hope to find a new home for it, where the next owner loves it as much as I did. I'm in North East Ohio. $5250. Thanks for looking! Edit: I also have the takeoff parts. Rear seat cowl, grab bars, grab bar delete covers, factory windshield, OEM muffler, etc.

No thanks, motorbike parts are a better investment. 🤑

Welcome from NoSoCal. Nice to see she's still in the VFRD family. She's purdy.

That sounds kind of dirty mate.

Welcome to VFRD from across the pond

Just the nickname given by a PO. Not sure why as he could hustle it pretty good thru the mountain curves.

Welcome! There's some nice goodies on that bike; I see a DMR sticker on the forks so likely to have had the touch of suspension guru Jamie Daugherty, and the rear looks pretty high so guessing he has been into the shock as well.

Welcome to the forum. Bike looks far younger than 19!

A real clear coat, even a 2-part 2K out of a can, is easily up to the task.

PM sent: Will post the link here also for future reference. PLR1110.indd

I just had the same problem and it was the throttle bodies being to high due to the fittinf of the rubber boots.

Found the exact same one instead, 10 quid and 5 delivery https://www.tradeinn.com/waveinn/en The place I got it if anyone happens to look for it later

Let us know if it is available from Italy. I got the same reply from RB USA, should have bought one when they were still available.

Pics would help. I have de-PAIRed, and de-flappered my airboxes to avoid these issues.

So recently, I had the oh-so-common Honda (Goldwing, CBR1100XX, ST1300 and VFR800 combined braking system) rear brake lock up, dragging issue. The rear brake pedal felt mushy like there was air in the lines, and the rear brake barely stopped the bike. However, the rear caliper was binding the rear disc. Starting from a complete stop would make the bike judder like there's something wrong with the clutch. Bike would generally feel sluggish around town. I would also smell burning brakes after coming to a stop from a sustained high speed run. When I put the bike on the center stand and depressed the rear brake pedal, it would mush all the way in its travel. However, when I tried to spin the rear wheel, there was A LOT of resistance. After several minutes the resistance faded a bit, but there was no free spinning the rear wheel for hours. Depressed the pedal again, and rear wheel would bind again. This illustration is EXCELLENT and helped me troubleshoot the issue. (Not sure of the original source of the diagram but I came cross it from our own Courtuk's post). After locking up the rear wheel, when I opened the bleeder for the rear outside pistons, nothing happened; wheel was still locked up. Thus, the problem wasn't with the outside pistons sticking nor the rear master cylinder which is directly plumbed (red line) to the rear outside pistons. When I opened the bleeder for the rear center piston on a locked wheel, fluid came out (pressure released), and the rear wheel was free. Thus, the problem wasn't the center piston itself. When I opened the bleeder for the PCV on a locked wheel, fluid came out (pressure released), and the rear wheel was free. Thus, it wasn't the line between the PCV to the center piston. When I depressed the SMC manually on a free rear wheel, the rear wheel was locked only when the SMC was in the depressed position. Once I released the SMC, the rear wheel was free. Thus, the problem wasn't between the SMC - PCV - rear center piston (blue line). When the front wheel was off the ground, the front wheel spun free. Thus, the problem wasn't between the RMC - delay valve - front center pistons. Everything pointed to the inside of entry port of the SMC. Or what's known as the "green filter". Reading ST-owners forum and an anecdote from our own Duc2V4, simply cleaning the "green filter" or rebuilding the SMC doesn't solve the problem. Honda technician on ST-owners forum, Igofar, recommends replacing the SMC rather than trying to clean it or rebuild it. So, that's what I did... 06454-MBG-425 $132.94 on Partzilla when I ordered it on 4/27/2020... Here's the inlet port (green filter of the new SMC vs the one on my bike)... Look at all that crud in there... Here's the consequence of riding around with a sticking rear center piston... GAWD!!! I put everything back together, and the brakes work fantastic now. Rear disc is still warm to the touch... warmer than the front discs. I wonder if running them hot cooked the seals in the calipers. Might have to rebuild those, AGAIN!!! ARGH!!! There are reports of Goldwings bursting into flames and other bikes blowing out their brake lines from overheating the discs and consequently the calipers and the hydraulics. Moral of the story: If you are rebuilding brakes on a VFR800 with neglected hydraulics, Secondary Master Cylinder REPLACEMENT should be a top priority! The SMC is the weak link when the brake system is neglected. I didn't know that. I rebuilt all calipers, seals and front master cylinder, but I took my chances with an old SMC because I was ignorant. If you are refurbishing a neglected VFR, do yourself a favor and buy a new SMC before it becomes NLA.

The lift table is tested, sure works, even it's quality is a bit disappointing, some improvements needed. So now as you look from a different angle, yes the wheel is not center as chain line way off whit the Zephyr 750 rear wheel. Fortune one I know has a Zephyr 550 whit orginal rear wheel so did visit him to get some measurements to find out what needs to be done. Turn's out the the 750 wheel has 10mm wider spacing between rear sprocket as brake disc compared to the 550, and it's actually even 5mm a side from rim center. So I need to get the rear brake caliper bracket slimmed down 5mm to get the rear wheel in center (measuring distance between rear shocks as rim tell same difference) and the rear sprocket holder also grinded off 5mm to move the rear sprocket into line whit the front! The chain line is now 10mm off! That's a lot! Then I need to calculate the spacer for sprocket side still.

No worries, I tend to specialise in "wall of text", which often isn't a great way to convey information! You're right, the part numbers are indeed different for the US and ROW spec RC36-I bikes, and I can't tell you definitively why that is, but I can tell you that I compared the petcocks on my parted-out '90 CA-spec FL and my '93 UK-spec FP when I rebuilt the latter, and they were as identical as I could determine. There is one difference I just noticed when I was looking at the one in my parts box the other day, and that is the absence of the "ON", "FUEL" and "OFF" marks stamped on the outside of the faceplate of the FP's petcock. Perhaps there was no need for such marks on the models with the remote fuel tap, as the faceplate is completely obscured by the remote pulley mechanism? That difference could have been enough to cause Honda to give the US-spec bikes a different part number. A lot of what I consider "knowledge" is just best-guessing what Honda engineers were thinking when they made their decisions. YMMV. Ciao, JZH

Simple and worthwhile. Did it to my 01 and much smoother at lower revs. Best of luck with the rest of the bike.

The airbox debacle is the primary reason I removed the PAIR system from my bikes. SO much easier with all that useless crap gone.

Hi, it's me. The guy with the weirdest issues ever. It's a long story, but has been resolved. Enjoy. I bought the bike for cheap with 57k km, four and a half years ago. I changed the plugs at 72k km. Noticed the plug on no.2 cylinder was white. Assumed it's running lean on that cylinder. Had the injectors ultrasonically cleaned, changed the vacuum hoses and thought it would fix it. It didn't. Continued riding and thinking what else could be wrong. I bought a set of Chinese injectors for testing. No change. Swapped the OEM injectors back. Swapped the injector subharness and the whole electrical harness chasing one other issue. No change to the plugs. Did the valve clearance check and adjustment and starter valve sync. Compression was fine, slightly lower in cylinder 2 but only around 5%, not enough to sound an alarm in my head. I added the Rapid bike racing and wideband lambda sensor for tuning purposes as I upgraded the bike in many ways. Through testing and logging confirmed that he cylinder no2 is not lean. In fact it's pretty much spot on. Fast forward to this spring, I turned the bike on in the garage, let it warm up a bit while I put on the rest of my gear. Garage is not very well lit and I noticed the cylinder no2 header glowing. The picture is overly dramatic as the phone can pick up more infrared light and show it as red compared to our eyes. Still, it was visibly glowing, just not as much as the pics show. I confirmed my observations with an IR thermometer. The cyl no2 header was 100-150C hotter than the cylinder no.4 at all times, even during warmup it heated up much quicker. Took the sparkplugs out again. Much worse than before. This was around 90k km. Went on the hunt again. Swapping coil position, swapping plug position, swapping injector position, put Chinese injectors in again, confirmed the AFR was good by adjusting fueling and moving the wideband sensor from bung to bung, confirmed that the injector pulses were right and as reported by rapidbike software using an oscilloscope. Tested the OEM injector flow rate by making a DIY flow measuring device. Confirmed the flow is identical across all injectors by weighing the amount of fuel sprayed by activating all injectors simultaneously trough a makeshift harness. Couldn't get to the bottom of it. I gave up again, packed it all up and continued riding trough the spring and summer season. I noticed if I hammer on the bike on the highway the oil level drops. I assumed it's evaporation from extreme heat and high oil temp. Also, it's an old engine, closing in on 100k km so I thought a small amount of oil consumption at extreme loads isn't weird. Continued hammering on it. After one very hard ride thought the twisties I used the highway to get back home quicker. Blasted it to top speed and continued hammering at 180-200km/h for 40km. The Fi light turned on, I stopped it blinked the code for crank position sensor. The bike started cutting out briefly at random moments. I disconnected the rapid bike system, the Fi light went away and the bike didn't cut out anymore. Could at least ride safely. The idle dropped however. Felt like it was running on 3 to 3.5 cylinders. Got home, took the sparkplugs out. The no2 sparkplug has melted away. I lowered a boroscope into the cylinders. Piston no2 had tons of carbon deposits. The valve recesses were rounded off by thick deposits, hardly distinguishable. The circular protrusion that was visible on other pistons wasn't visible on piston no2. For reference this is how other cylinders looked. This is where I finally found the source of the issue. It all clicked. The slightly lower compression is a sign of cylinder and/or ring wear. It lets oil into the cylinder, mostly noticable at prolonged high loads. It accumulates deposits. They increase compression a lot, which leads to premature ignition and extreme temps. The headers glow, the sparkplug goes white and eventually melts. I bought PROTEC P4650 CX Carbon X combustion chamber cleaner and went to work. Took 10-15 cycles of cleaning but eventually it cleaned up. I helped break up the deposits by inserting a bottle cleaning brush in the cylinder and spinning it around. It really helped a lot. Here's a pic during cleaning process. In the end it was fully clean, just a shiny piston crown. I checked the valves. The extreme heat wore the valve seat on the exhaust side. I adjusted the normal exhaust valve on cylinder no2. Fortunately the compression stayed the same, the valve itself didn't burn. Other valves were fine after 25k km. With the cleaning done, oil changed and new sparkplugs in it fired right up. No Fi light, no cutting, idle restored, headers didn't glow and IR thermometer confirmed the temps are similar between all cylinders. Took it for a test ride, everything was fine. Connected back the Rapid bike system once I confirmed everything works. Wow, Rapid bike really makes a huge difference. Took it for a second test ride. Made sure to blast it on the highway. Took the sparkplugs out after 70km of mixed riding and a 30km highway blast. Sparkplug was brown-ish like it should be. Lowered the boroscope in the cylinder no2. Deposits already started forming. The circle on the piston crown wasn't visible. The deposits form on the center first. It is what it is. The engine runs great again. I'll use the fuel additive every now and then to help clean the deposits. I think the additive will work well on fresh deposits. Old, dry and crusty deposits need harsh chemical cleaning and mechanical agitation. Fresh, wet deposits might clean up with only the fuel additive. If needed I'll buy another set of Protec K1+K2 combustion chamber cleaner and clean it again in a year or two. Engine rebuild is prohibitively expensive, it's better to buy a used engine. If I find one for a good price I'll buy it. For now this engine will do the job.

Ok, I’ll exercise some restraint and not show any pictures of the brutal winter we’re having here. I don’t think it got any warmer than 85F (29C) today. 😎

Old Maine joke. Someone from away: Boy is it really cold and so much snow up here in the winter! Mainer: Yup. Someone from away: So, what do you all do in the summer? Mainer: Well, if it falls on a weekend, we have a BBQ. 😁 Give me a bell if you are anywhere near NE this summer.

Tp whoever finds this in the future, I had connected the crank position sensor splice from the module to the wrong connectors. REMINDER, 03' VFR800 crank position sensor connectors are RED!