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Bought this at the end of July. I knew it had issues as it sat for 13 years. Rusted tank 19 year old tires Original R/R Etc But it only had 11.5K on the clock So I spent a month cleaning the tank repeatedly, then treating it with Phosphoric Acid 3 times. This took awhile so in addition I built sliders/tip over protectors, went completely through the brakes, swapped my 8 spoke on to the rear and a new set of T32's, bobbins on the front axle just because I had them lying around, riding lights up front for Moose spotting, built some saddle bag frames and installed some longer heavier bar ends. Its odd but the bar ends on the VFR are exactly the same as on my VF1000R's After a couple of tests rides I took it on a 2800 trip down to VA,WV,PA upstate NY, VT NH then back to Maine I did encounter some engine surging about 1200 miles into the trip, but I made it back north so I'll address that in a separate post. Love the bike, a bit less sporty than my 3rd or 4th, but I bought it for touring, as my 4th has 114K and is showing it. My only complaint, and its not really a complaint is the braking system looks like it was designed by a bunch of French plumbers on their croissant break. First pic is off the trailer Next, the tank. Midway through the process. Tank clean My 3 red VFR's just because. Slider/tip over protectors Moose lights. Bobbins. Midway through building saddlebag frames. Bike at the top of rt 250 near the VA/WV line.

I created a PDF of the microfiche for the 1999 model for my own reference. Thought others might find it useful. 1999 VFR800 - Microfiche.pdf

Ok I'm sorry..... I will not make fun of other members bikes I will not make fun of other members bikes I will not make fun of other members bikes I will not make fun of other members bikes I will not make fun of other members bikes I will not make fun of other members bikes I will not make fun of other members bikes I will not make fun of other members bikes I will not make fun of other members bikes I will not make fun of other members bikes I will not make fun of other members bikes I will not make fun of other members bikes I will not make fun of other members bikes I will not make fun of other members bikes Dear FromMaine will that do? My fingers are worn out! I'm sorry, Mea Culpa. Happy days!

Grum: You will stay after VFRD school today and write on the chalkboard 100 times. "I will not make fun of other members bikes" When done, erase it, and do it again.😁

Terrible amount of oil leaking from your bike mate. Better get that checked ASAP. Lovely looking 1200.

I had just purchased my 7th gen and the bags were back-ordered. I was living in the midwest at the time and my first overnight trip was to the beautiful and mostly empty backroads of north/central Arkansas. If you've been there you know: routes 123, 16, 27, and the absolute best, 341 aka Push Mtn Road. And I say that living now in northern CA, so that's good. Not as much attention for the VFR1200F here on VFRD, we're mostly 8th, 5th gen and prior mentions these days, but I really loved my 1200. Seven years of great riding.

Might be a good idea to not mess with the bike while you haggle with the seller. The more wrench work you put on it while in your possession the more they will accuse you of being the cause.

If only....

https://www.carscoops.com/2024/10/brembo-buys-suspension-specialist-ohlins-in-405-million-deal/ Looks like it'll be one-stop-shopping from now on for all your suspension & braking needs!

I had a quick read of your original post, and really got it. It happens, life, circumstances, job, suddenly you have run out of riding season. I shipped out my entire life, because thats what you do up here if you want to make a living. More than once I left early April to go overseas with 18" of snow on the ground to get extended and come back in Nov. with..........snow on the ground. It was tough looking at the bikes in the garage to say the least.

Get trading standards involved ASAP If the radiator is like that the bike is a lemon This deals with cars but the rules are the same https://www.thecarexpert.co.uk/rejecting-a-car/

You're my new hero!!! 😁

Probably a brand of cigarettes from the 60's, you know, when doctors said that smoking was good for you. "Nothing makes me feel more relaxed than a good drag on my Kooler Thins".

OIL SEAL (40X68X7.2) 91207-MW4-003 The "7.2" is the width. Just substitute with a 7 and search for a high quality 40x68x7. 40x68x7 is available in a double lip with spring from many sources. I do it all the time. 40x68x7mm FPM/FKM Oil Shaft Rotary Seal w/ Stainless Steel Spring Dbl Lip

98 was my first. Put about 70K on it before it developed a coolant loss issue. I suspect a cracked head as the temp had gotten into the 240 range on several occasions. I would have kept it for parts, but gave it to a friend who actually has room to store spare bikes. I could probably talk him out of it if I tried. I now have 2 '99s. One a CA model that is setup for day rides/track days, and a 48 state model that is setup for commuting/touring.

That's what I do... get it running, then ease back to around 2k for warm up.

That is probably down to the way the wax unit and starter valve synch has been done. The wax unit pulls open the starter valves together, and the 3 starter valves should all be synchronised to the fixed SV. If the fixed SV is closed more and the others are synched to it, the cold idle speed is lower. You can get the same effect if the wax unit nut is loosened off a touch. Because the hot position of the SVs rests on the idle adjuster screw, you can still get a normal hot idle speed with the above adjustments. I know all this because I had to deal with a seized SV on my 09 and had to re-adjust the fixed SV, and it took me three tries to get the cold idle speed back to something sensible. My 09 now starts at around 2000 rpm from cold. I also start my 99 with full "choke" and then ease it back to a steady 2k once it is running, for the warm-up.

I do(slider pin lube), but it’s been so long that all I can say for sure is the infrequent adjustments aren’t complicated by balky semi-seized parts..

Did someone say Mt Hamilton? I stopped there on my way to the 1999 AMA races at Laguna Seca, then after the races I rode Angeles Crest hwy on the way to Mt Palomar. This pic is about 8 miles west on Mt Hamilton road from the observatory. I seem to recall that road being rather twisty.

Every machine has a potential for problems, with prior ownership / usage playing a large part. You don't know what the diagnosis actually is yet. Cam chain tensioners can, and do, go bad and need replacement. Sometimes a failure aligns with bad timing. It's called a coincidence. A good seller would make a goodwill gesture to help resolve this. You did not buy from one. Have the bike diagnosed and documented by a reputable shop (if that exists near you) to be used as proof for your case. Whether that is court or presenting the findings to see if the seller will work with you if it's something somewhat simple. I certainly wouldn't trust the original shop to diagnose and/or repair the bike though. But getting turned off by one Honda (with no documented history from a shit seller) and looking at a Ducati for reliability and low maintenance is a fun statement. I do sincerely wish you good luck and hope it's something simple that you can pivot from without excessive additional pain and suffering.

The irony is that, although the first two photos are indeed from Arkansas, the last pic is actually taken on the road down from Mt. Hamilton here in the bay area. So that is actually CA crud and tar snakes on the road. The fog in the distance is covering San Jose. I have now added a proper 3rd Arkansas photo below (with my 6th gen this time), with no oil outside of the crankcase! Anyway Grum, I would have made the same joke if I'd thought of it!

And really...follow the manual. Stator has multiple check, some at/around specific RPM. (Why I asked)

Terry, you're just showing off because you have no chicken strips.😂

If it doesn't have a replaceable fuse then it's an auto reset breaker. Strongly suggest replacing it with a normal weather resistant 30amp fuse. Something like attached photo available at any good auto spares shop. Is the R/R a genuine Shindengen FA020AA?

Mate, I really feel for you and that poor 8gen. Sad because I get the feeling its a very neglected bike, the 8gen is the most reliable VFR built. I don't think I've heard even a 6gen timing chain (if that is what your noise fault is?) clatter as bad as yours. 8gens go back to 2014 and scrolling through two forums there is hardly a single CCT that's needed replacing on an 8gen. My 2014 has done 100,000k's and not needed a CCT change. I checked my Radiator in the same spot as your photo and its pristine. Agree with the above comments that the bike has seen many a winters salt flavoured road! If the clattering is coming from the rear two cylinders and the clatter appears up at the cam covers, then first thing is to replace the CCT, the rear one is the easiest to replace. When the bike radically overheated you didn't mention anything about the cooling fan operation! Was the cooling fan running? With the 8gen you can only really confirm the reserve cooling tank level by removing the rider seat and lifting the rubber cap off the tank and check the level is just at the lip below the cap. If the Fan doesn't operate around the 103-105degC temp, then check the Fan spins freely, check the Fan 20amp Fuse in the R/H Fuse box. I wouldn't trust the cores of the front radiator, they could blow at any moment given the corrosion that's present. If you end up with the bike (hopefully you might get a refund). I wouldn't trust the age of both coolant, Brake and Clutch Fluid and who knows what oil has been added and when? Good Luck with everything. Download this Service Manual - It's Gold!

What bay was this thing salvaged from? Jesus H Christ. Very sorry. I hope the problem isn't as bad as you think and it works out, but... Culpability on both parties here. Selling shit as ready to ride and an inadequate, to non-existent, buying inspection. He knew what he did here.

New never installed aftermarket tinted / smoke turn signal covers. 1998-2001 VFR. $25 shipped to you.

$200 $25 shipping 1st Gen Interceptor NOS never attached.

Couldnt agree more!

Very nice bikes you've got there, and the fastest colour as well 👍 Looks like you know what you're doing with the spanners and tools 👍

Correct, dont piss me off on the road. 😄 That is a temporary power point. It has 2 usb's and a cigarette style 12 v outlet. The usb's are for the gps as phone service is spotty or non existent in lots of northern Maine, The other to charge my phone when needed. The 12 volt outlet is for my old fashioned air compressor as gas stations are spotty or non existent also. Since its is wired direct to the battery, I use one with a lighted switch so I know when its on. Its old and clunky, but the new unit I ordered never showed, out of stock.

What the hell is mounted on the upper cowl inner panel? Nuclear launch button?

Nice addition. Now figure out the surging and de-link ces stupides freins.

Got it. Good advise = = THANK YOU

https://www.citizensadvice.org.uk/consumer/buying-or-repairing-a-car/motor-industry-associations/ https://www.anglesey.gov.wales/en/residents/trading-standards-guidance/consumer-advice/problems-with-motor-vehicles/122530 Have a read. Are you within 30 dayiof purchase? (Second link refers)

I would be interested in the CAD/STL file.. would print it to see what it looks like in hand.

That's correct: 98-99 has not HISS. A complication less: in case you miss the HISS key, the procedure to get a new one is not the easiest 💀

With the exception of the mirrors, you listed all the reasons why to keep the 98.

I have a 1999. If I had a 2000, I'd keep my 99. No cats!

Tried using correction pump feature. First I tried -8, 500ms, 95% sensitivity. The initial response was improved, the dips into the 11 were mostly fixed, but a moment after that a jump to lean was noticeable when riding. Obviously the 500ms period was too long. Then I tried shortening it to 250ms and using -10 correction pump with 95% sensitivity. This was better, but still, sometimes I could notice it leaning out just after throttle application. Much less often than before, so I was feeling good about it. I also noticed that even at 95% sensitivity there are still dips into 11's occurring when I add just a little bit of throttle. Here's a histogram of AFR data corresponding cells where 5% or more throttle was added. As you can see the correction pump did it's job and 76% of the data is in the acceptable 12-14 AFR range, with 53% of the data in the best 12.5-13.5 range. 20% of the data was too rich, only 4% too lean with no jumps into 15's which is acceptable. I tried shortening the correction pump period to 150ms, reverted to -8 correction pump and increased sensitivity to 98%. This felt really good, couldn't notice any lean spots after throttle application, while the sharper response was retained, as the dips to 11 AFR were rare. The data confirms this. 83% of the data is in the acceptable 12-14 range with 62% in the best 12.5-13.5 range. Only 14% of the data is in the rich, sub 12 range, while only 3% is lean, with no jumps to 15's. I'm gonna keep using these settings. -8 for 150ms, 98% sensitivity. Seat of the pants feels good, data is good. Remember guys, butt dyno is good but data is best. No point in bothering with the MAP sensor as this correction pump setting solved the problem. Disabling MAP would certainly bring other problems, especially with elevation changes, as I assume the MAP data serves as barro info as well as load. Alpha N is only good with proper closed loop which I can't yet achieve with Rapid bike. Sorry for hijacking the thread.

Ohh wow! These look like they have seen a lot haha! I have reworded myself with new boots https://pandomoto.com/blog/product-by-tag/black-motorcycle-boots/ so far okay, also the price is not crazy. Had old ones for 7 years before...

If you can score an extra set of injectors off of some throttle bodies on ebay, I'd recommend getting all 8 cleaned, and have the cleaner flow-match the set of four that are closest together in spray volume! That's what I did for mine before hitting the dyno for a custom map. (this is totally not necessary, btw... but if you're a perfectionist or masochistic, it's a great assurance!)

Thumbs, not sure if you are referring to an experience with your 89. While the 86-89 OEM cap looks the same as every other OEM cap Honda put on EVERY OTHER BIKE, it is different. Yes, by a few millimeters. So when you buy a aftermarket keyless cap for Honda, it wasn't made for the RC24/26. It's not necessarily manufacturing variances. There is actually a Kawasaki cap that has the correct bolt hole relationships for the RC24, but requires a custom (viton) gasket be made to seal the Honda sized hole with a Kawasaki sized/placed cap hole. And the OD turned down slightly to properly fit the well and seat the gasket nicely.

Hey Lorne. VFRD member Tirso and I traded comments a couple of years ago about encountering a speed trap at that same Olema intersection a year or two ago. Watch out! My Nacimiento-Furgussen shot from four years ago, pretty close to your perspective, when it was the only way to go south as Rt. 1 had washed into the sea:

Olema, eh? I was enjoying a solo ride homeward from Monterey in July of '03, and neglected to stop at Olema's one and only stop sign. I was looking for the turn into Point Reyes National Seashore and hadn't noticed a CHiP car right behind. Oops. Got away with a warning, tho. No photo of that adventure, but here's one from earlier on that trip. Also on a VTR1000, but an F sadly instead of an R. This is a couple miles up Nacimiento-Fergusson road from PCH, near Lucia.

You've probably been in a similar situation: A great stretch of road in front of you (PCH in this case). To the left: the way home after a fun 50 mile backroad ride. Straight ahead at least 20 miles of really great smooth, twisty pavement. Approaching the turn an RV and a truck were ahead of me as I headed south out of Tomales. So...inside my helmet I said, if they go left I should really go straight. They went left. A good choice, and some luck, meant that the next 15 (or so) miles were motorcycling magic. The few four-wheeled vehicles in front of me used the turn-outs (thanks!). Michelin Power 5's still stick! Just buzzed all the way to Olema, kept meaning to stop and take a pic but, you know... So, boring garage photo, back home:

Hello everyone, I’m new to this forum and have just purchased a 2015 VFR Interceptor with 1,300 miles on it. Not sure if I overpaid, but it’s been ridden so little I though it was a deal. has original everything. Starts & rides incredibly smooth. Every thing works like new. Any suggestions on maintnance? things I should know, or expect? Thanks for the feedback.

You still hanging out around that area of SoCal? I was just there a few weeks ago and a neat stop is the Honda HQ in Torrance. This is the lobby... just park in visitor parking during normal weekday work hours and waltz right in. No entry fee or anything.

Boy was I wrong on my theory related to rear spring rate. I had Phil at Aftershocks re-valve and re-spring my Vtec forks last summer and while I felt an improvement with the forks I wasn't happy with the bikes handling. I installed a CBR Ohlins on the rear at the same time as the redone forks, but I did not increase the spring rate for fear of a horrendous ride and I thought that if I could get the proper SAG with the stock rate spring than everything was cool. As mentioned I wasn't really impressed with the set-up and was considering another complete front end swap to a F4i, but after another conversation with Phil I was convinced to try a heaver rear spring rate first in order to bring the bikes balance back closer to what Honda originally had. Phil installed .95 kg forks spring and recommended 19 kg rear spring to maintain balance, so I ordered a 19 kg from Ohlins. Today was my first ride with the new spring set-up and I haven't even set proper SAG or dialed in the shock yet. Results, This thing is on Rails ! :goofy: Turns in better, holds a line better, does everything better. It has transformed the bike completely and I can only imagine how it will feel after I set Sag and spend a day on Comp. & Rebound settings. Amazing ! straight numbers are 30% stiffer on the front springs (.74 to .95) Rear spring in now 25% stiffer (15.5 kg to 19.3 kg) added from a newer post 10-19-07 Don't forget that with all this Forking around you guys are doing to the front that you need to consider increasing the rear spring rate to better maintain the bikes balance and get better performance from your forks too. I first did the forks with valving & .95's and I installed an Ohlins on the rear with a stock rate spring, though it was an improvement it wasn't right. When I finally installed the proper rear spring on the rear (19kg for my 200 lbs) it transformed both ends of the bike!!! fing02.gif Turns out running a soft/stock rear spring with new stiffer screwed up feel on both ends because the stiff front transfered more weight to the already to soft rear making it feel worse and the stiffer front tended to bounce across many bumps and irregular surfaces instead of absorbing them. I had a old post about it " transformed" don't know if it's still around, but consider stiffening the rear spring in close to the same percentage as the front and you'll be much happier. (note if you just commute and don't hit the twisties you may never notice it) cool.gif update 1/31/2010 After years of learning, reading and sharing set-up info mostly with Pete McCrary we realize that the ONLY way to achieve proper spring rates on out VFR's(or any bike) is by achieving BOTH desired FREE 7 RIDER SAG numbers! Rider sag numbers alone mean ABSOLUTELY nothing by them self in relation to determining correct Spring rates! I plan to add real world spring rate numbers here from members who have done it the right way achieving desired Free & Rider Sag numbers! I weigh 190 lbs and have a 19 kg(1065 lb) spring on a Vtec, I get the following numbers measuring by myself: Free sag- 12mm Rider sag- 32mm These are real close for what I want, but I want to check it again check it again w/help to be more accurate. So IMO if you weight 190 plus you'll need at least a 19kg spring to get close, I'll be trying a 20 kg real soon and post my numbers. BTW I started w/a 850 lb spring on my Ohlins and had No free sag w/35mm rider sag. BR jasonsmith: 220lbs no gear. I wear full textile top to bottom. 07 RWB VFR Parts Elka 3-Way with remote pre-load - Rear spring rate - 1100lb or 19.6kg (STOCK 15.3kg) 28% increase. FRSP S3732095 RT Front Fork Spring 36.7x34.5x315 .95kg from RaceTech (STOCK .74kg) with valving (see below) to compensate for the increased spring rate. 28% increase. RaceTech G2-R Gold Valve Kit - G2-R Next Generation Compression Kit FMGV S2040G Fork Rebound HFR Gold Valve Kit-Racing (Hi-Frequency Response Race Rebound Gold Valve) FRGV SR2001 Stock Oil Weight = Honda SS-8 (10wt) New Oil Weight = Maxima 5wt HP Fork Oil (RaceTech recommended US1 which is 2.5wt - 5wt from what I can tell) Numbers (with full gear, 3/4 full tank)... Front: Sag - 35 mm (3 lines exposed on the pre-load adjuster) Free Sag - 15mm, down 7mm. Rear: Sag - 35 mm (23 out of 52 available clicks in on the pre-load) Free Sag - 7mm (With a 1200# rear spring I would guess my free sag could be increased to 15mm or so at 35mm rider sag) * +

This is a Vtec shock option, IMO the 929 shock is the best swap for the 5th gen and has the same spring rate as the VFR. btw the vfr spring will not work on either the F4i or 929 shock. also the cbr 1100xx shock runs a stiffer spring( I think a 17 kg) and with bolt into either, but if I'm not mistaken it's like 1/4" shorter than a 5th gen and 1/4" longer than a 6th gen. and only has the same adjustments as the stock VFR shock.