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Valve clearance, dealers refuses to check


Dae

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I am surprised by all the valve adjustment talk. I am a basic mechanic that can troubleshoot, swap out parts and some limited motor work dependent on the sophistication of the engine. I would think one could detect the symptoms of the valves being out with a monitoring device of some sort. I dont know... emission perimeters, Dyno readout... Electronic plug and play on the newer bikes, maybe. This obviously wouldnt tell you the amount or the valves in question but it would tell you, X = possible valve clearance issue.

If a bike is running perfectly and has no symptoms at all one would assume that nothing needs adjustment. All the testing equipment in the world and we have to tear apart half the bike to insert feelers to test gap. Very primitive if you ask me.

Yes, over simplified. No, not a crazy idea...? There has got to be a better way by now.

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I have checked the valve clearances myself @ 26000 km. All the valves where in spec but some intake valve where a bit tighter. So i would suggest forget the 26000km check but do check @ 52000 km ( 32000 mi ) If you revit high all the time check the valves.

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I have a tick over 65,000KM and planning to change my spark plugs at around 80,000KM. I'll ask the dealer to check the valves while they swap out the plugs. I wish I had mechanical skills, the dealer probably will tell me all are within spec without even checking.

What are some of the the symptoms/signs that valves needs adjustment?

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I have a tick over 65,000KM and planning to change my spark plugs at around 80,000KM. I'll ask the dealer to check the valves while they swap out the plugs. I wish I had mechanical skills, the dealer probably will tell me all are within spec without even checking.

What are some of the the symptoms/signs that valves needs adjustment?

Good question.

Loose and they are probably noisy.

Tight and they ????????????????

Maybe there isn't any indication until you do burn some valves. :unsure:

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I am surprised by all the valve adjustment talk. I am a basic mechanic that can troubleshoot, swap out parts and some limited motor work dependent on the sophistication of the engine. I would think one could detect the symptoms of the valves being out with a monitoring device of some sort. I dont know... emission perimeters, Dyno readout... Electronic plug and play on the newer bikes, maybe. This obviously wouldnt tell you the amount or the valves in question but it would tell you, X = possible valve clearance issue.

If a bike is running perfectly and has no symptoms at all one would assume that nothing needs adjustment. All the testing equipment in the world and we have to tear apart half the bike to insert feelers to test gap. Very primitive if you ask me.

Yes, over simplified. No, not a crazy idea...? There has got to be a better way by now.

Too loose and they'll make a racket. The most obvious symptom if they are tight is it will get harder to start. Power may get a bit softer, but that can be hard to detect on a engine that isn't regularly pushed really hard.

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I am surprised by all the valve adjustment talk. I am a basic mechanic that can troubleshoot, swap out parts and some limited motor work dependent on the sophistication of the engine. I would think one could detect the symptoms of the valves being out with a monitoring device of some sort. I dont know... emission perimeters, Dyno readout... Electronic plug and play on the newer bikes, maybe. This obviously wouldnt tell you the amount or the valves in question but it would tell you, X = possible valve clearance issue.

If a bike is running perfectly and has no symptoms at all one would assume that nothing needs adjustment. All the testing equipment in the world and we have to tear apart half the bike to insert feelers to test gap. Very primitive if you ask me.

Yes, over simplified. No, not a crazy idea...? There has got to be a better way by now.

Too loose and they'll make a racket. The most obvious symptom if they are tight is it will get harder to start. Power may get a bit softer, but that can be hard to detect on a engine that isn't regularly pushed really hard.

Ok, Thanks. I know the valve check is more preventative then anything else. On my BMW 75 R60/6 BMW recommends the checks in order to record the history of the engine basically. If valve A keeps needing adjustment you have to ask yourself why. But then again I could adjust the valves on that bike 20 mins each side with three tools that were in my onboard tool roll up. :tongue: I have to say that bike was a pleasure to work on. They wanted you to be able to to any work to the bike right on the side of the road, and that was actually the case. The owners manual had all tech info needed.

THX again

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  • 1 year later...

Sorry to drag up an old thread, but I figured it's better than starting a new thread on the same. :)

I inquired with my mechanic about Valve Checks for my 2009 model. (Done around 10,000 miles atm). His advise was not to worry about them at all - that the chances are that they are fine, and if they're not - then there's something more wrong and it's going to cost me anyway.

I don't know much about engines. (Except fuel goes in, grunt comes out and some sound better than others :) ) - so from a noobs point of view - I was wondering - what is worst case scenario if the valves aren't checked and they're wrong? From what I can tell it sounds like they can be 'burnt out'. How expensive are we talking to fix if this does occur?

Thanks

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These bikes go 100,000 miles without any problems.

Mine has 80,000 miles with no signs of any problems.. Change the oil every 2000 or less miles.

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Worse case scenario: valve clearance decreases as the valve wears into the seat or something else wears, at some point clearance can become zero. If it continues the valve will not seat fully and burning gases will

seep by the non-sealing valve. This will lead to decreased compression and lower horsepower. It happens so gradually that it isn't even noticeable, except now you may be making 85 hp instead of 90.

The valves on the VFR generally keep their clearances very well. Whether yours will is up to you to decide. I've had to adjust a couple valves for tightness at 16,000 miles. Personally if I had a mechanic tell me what your

mechanic told you, I'd find another mechanic to take my bike to. A tight valve is not indicative of any problem, it just is, and should be addressed. Ignoring them will not make them better, quite the contrary.

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I was told my valve were inspected, when I had my drive shaft (U-joint failure (94,000KM.) Technician informed me the exhaust was slightly out of spec and the intakes were within tolerance. I guess I have to take his word, if the valves were inspected or not.

I currently have 124,000KM and see no drop off in performance, or not noticing the drop off. If worst case scenario happens, for the price of valve inspection. Ebay has used engine with low mileage for the price of 2 to 4 valve inspection, minus shipping and installation.

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If you want piece of mind, do it.

If you don't care, don't.

My 2001 needed very minor adjustment on 2 intake valves at 64000k's.

Would I check them again within 20000k's, yes, because I do it my self.

I ride my bike only once a week for around 250k's, but once I leave town, it spends most of its time between 6000 and 11000rpm.

So if you ride a bit more gentle then I do, maybe you don't need to check it as often, but if you love your bike and expect the best it can do, its not a bad idea to keep an eye on it.

Big difference when you have to pay for it.

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One reason medical testing uses( placebos) is because, they can verify whos full of shit and who's not, same goes for valve inspections. Valves specs operate in a range and they seriously have to be out of that range to cause a real noted performance issue. Most valves that get adjusted are on the limit of that range and not necessarily significantly out of the range to actually cause a performance issue.

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You roll the dice if you don't inspect at regular intervals. If you don't mind or care and feel like replacing the motor rather than inspecting that's your deal.

If you regularly perform routine maintenance on the bike, checking clearances is an involved, careful, but very manageable process especially with a shop manual available. I take the time and do more than just the clearances...change the oil, coolant if needed, check vacuum hoses, plugs et all.

I suspect if you pay someone to do your maintenance and your wallet allows...find the right mechanic (the one who actually DOES) the work, not just the shop manager before and after and have him walk through the process and show you the data/measurements andwhich valve/buckets had an issue or not.

My bikes always feel happier after a check and adjustment.

Matt

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my dealer was more than happy to check mine at 16,000 miles.....and charge me $400.00...on the up side...he only charged another $75 to install the Bazzaz ZF-i while it was apart

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Got to wonder the number of times it was said "All is just fine" without even going in there. Short of marking random locations on the covers,what is one to do?

Luckily i've got a competent former tech working outta his garage at home. Hope he never moves!

If I was unable to observe the check and adjustment..don't know that i'd feel satisified at least on this procedure.

And here I thought everyone was honest... lol

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I went to two different Honda dealers and they both state it’s unnecessary to check the valve clearance at 28,000KM. One dealer pointing to a Goldwing, getting the oil change and states it has over 90,000KM without ever having the valves inspected. The dealers assured me that the 3 year 50,000KM warranty will still apply without checking for valve clearance.

I Have zero mechanical skills, so checking for valve clearance is too advance for my novice skills.

Should I be concerned?

What are the symptoms of valves needing adjustments?

Find another dealer/mechanic. If you have novice skills this would be something I would leave to a professional.

You'll hear a lot of opinions on whether to check the valve clearance. At 50K miles 4 of my exhaust values where tight.and needed adjustment. If I had not checked I would not have known - there were no obvious symptoms.

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Should point out here that its a 7th gen here with the hybrid shim under buckets on the intake and rocker arm on the exhaust, all my exhaust valves were out of spec, not the shim under buckets. It was a simple loosen the pinch bolt and then tighten the rocker with the correct gap. Most of the other generations are shim under bucket all around, rockers go out of spec sooner but are alot easier to adjust. Shim under buckets require you to remove the cam shaft and drive assembly then the bucket to get to the shim. Then you have to replace the shim or do what I used to do wet sand it if its too thick.

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my dealer was more than happy to check mine at 16,000 miles.....and charge me $400.00...on the up side...he only charged another $75 to install the Bazzaz ZF-i while it was apart

$400 is a smoking deal. The quote I got on my VTEC @ 16k was over twice that. Tech said "Don't bother. I've checked a lot. None ever needed any adjustment." So I passed.

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Just checked them at 48,000 miles and none were out. In previous checks, none were out at 16,000 and only one exhaust was out at 32,000.

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5th gen check at 72000 miles, two exhaust valves tight...just barely.

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Lucky you. I'm due for my 16K service and my local Honda stealer estimates approximately $1200.00 for the service!!! They quoted 6.1 hours of labor at $130.00 per hour. That's $793.00 for labor alone. Plus parts (i.e. oil, filter, DCT filter, spark plugs and air filter if needed, etc.). I have the OEM shop manual and it calls for inspection of valves, and all other components. The only replacements called for are the oil and filters. It also calls for the air filter to be cleaned. It calls for inspection of the spark plugs at 16K and replacement at 32K. I am almost certain the spark plugs are long life Iridium.

I am very particular about my bike and I don't want just anybody to touch it. My local stealer has a trained tech and I am confident he can do the service correctly but they are just too high on their labor rate. I called two dealers in Central Florida for estimates and one quoted me $180.00 for the oil and other inspection services and $250.00 for the valve inspection; that's $430.00 (quite reasonable). The other quoted me $1300.00 and told me the job takes about 12 hours (yeah, I was born yesterday!) . Both of their hourly rates were $99.00.

However, none of the dealers have ever done a 16K service on the VFR1200, including my dealer here in North Florida. Plus I have to drive to Orlando or tow my bike and spend the night.

That's my dilemma and if I sound frustrated, I really am. They have not sold many 1200s in Central or North Florida and some (Honda) dealers have not even seen one. Any advice, especially from any North or Central Florida owners?

Thanks listening,

anbark22

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Too tight on exhaust valves quickly leads to burnt valves/seats, and expensive repairs. It may take many miles to get there, but by the time you notice the performance difference you are too late.

What gets me is the two different camps: you either don't need it or it's going to cost you. Two sides of the same coin. This is why I do all my own wrenching. I don't trust anyone. I know where my valve clearances are at. Do you?

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I dont trust any dealers around here to even tighten a license plate bolt. --

-- Anbark22, you might want to learn some wrenching skill yourself. Good techs at dealers are rare.

and the system they use to work on bikes are a standard time setup. If the tech beats the time he get full wage,

and if he takes longer than the book, he still gets paid book time for the job and eats the extra time. Such a system is a screw up waiting to happen.. .....

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