spud786

I have oem rear set on order, so we'll try this again. In my haste of bouncing around finding an oem deal, I smudged over whether they were actually for the rear , those right fronts were $47, its costing me $59 for these rears i just ordered, but I need them to get it done. I dont ride this bike enough, for the right front pads not to sit for years, but if I can use them on the Left Front, that lessens the pain of throwing out $50 , and not being needed.

its a 2006 ABS model, that would be great if the right pads will fit the left front, I would need left pads before the right fronts.

Final verdict, no dice, the frame of the right fronts are longer by 1/4 to 1/2 inch. I guess I'll be sitting on thees right front pads for a while, I did them not long ago, and order another set of rears,

on abs model L front is a different composite, non abs both front the same. Im thinking left front softer composite, it also wears faster than right front on abs model

I ordered the oem pads, found an ebay deal, and then discovered they were right fronts(non returnable). But EBC shows same part number for their pad line(front and rear), which means the oem front pads will Physically fit on the rear, pad compound likely differnt , but I should be able to use them . Thanks for the help

Hello, anyone know if right front vfr800 brake pads will fit the rear, I messed up on the order?

So I think I figured out why my slave began leaking in the first place, and then after fixing the slave, the master plunger began leaking. It was because my return port in the master got clogged and the system was building excess pressure. I noticed how my lever was all the way out tight, even on the lowest setting, then one day I ran the bike into 9,000 rpm in a 5th gear on the clutch was slipping, I remove a little fluid from the slave and lever is fine again for 20 miles. after doing this a couple times, I started paying attention to the master return port, which id already stuck a pick into the hole and a fine wire. So I took a large Needle this time and tapped it in with some pliers, and Bam that was it , that hole was plugged (all excess pressure released), but that must have been why the slave and then the master began leaking, excess pressure build up. the new seals and stuff never leaked, it just built enough pressure locking the lever full out and then the clutch would slip in a tall gears hard on the throttle.

Follow up , my first ride with new slave was fine, but then the master began leaking, it was fine before , so I ended up rebuilding that also. I was able to just remove the master from the bars turn it straight up , and rebuild on the bike. Following ride all back to normal.

Good to know, now I just have to get a Battery, charged it last night, but not enough oats to spin the motor to start.

I still have my 2006 vfr 800, but I ride my Ktm 500 mostly. Unfortunately the Slave on the VFR began leaking, so had to rebuild the slave. This bike was not fun to Bleed a dry system. It would not take a reverse bleed at all. THats normally my route a reverse bleed with my ktm. Forward bleed with a hose and mouth on the bleed nipple no good either. Had to wrap the threads of bleed nipple, and use a Mity Vac, Then id let it pull fluid through the system several times, then Id lock the nipple, while under vacume, and them squeese the clutch open nipple and close. Finally got all the air out, but no way to do a dry system without the Mity vac from my view. and wrap the threads. I post this, cause I found differnt things on the internet, and some are Half bled system , completely dry system is much tougher.

I spend most of my riding on my KTM, the VFR sits alot but ridden ever 2 weeks to a month, but it has 115,000 miles on it, all on mostly cheap oil, never has showed slippage (DIESILS OR CHEAP MC OIL). My ktm on the otherhand, never had slippage either, till I began running a full syn oil, including a new oem clutch pack during that time, EVEN ADDED HEAVIER SPRINGS(still had issues), I scrubbed the plates and went back to Dino oil , no more issue. Both plate sets were oem. but first plates set 50,000 mile no issue, 2nd plate set 15,000 miles Dino oil , but plaqued with full syn oil , high load slippage. Both oils the same brand, and both rated MA2, but the dino oil is best for the clutch.

Ive run a folded shop rag in the gap for years, not sure if it made the bike quieter or better airflow, its been so long, but I kept it there.

If you look at the floor of the airbox, the rear is deeper, thats why the long stacks go in the rear and short in the front. so they are the same height installed.

I ran one set of plugs 56,000 miles(they were shot disintegrated), and made no difference in performance, which was already flawless, I just knew they had 56,000 miles and needed to come out. So I wonder if you have some kind of fueling contamination issue, as to why plugs transformed the bike.

Did it even need Cam chains? I have 115,000 miles on mine, and never have any intention of replacing cam chains. The cam chain tensioners, can become notoriously noisy, but not the cam chains fault.

I have like 115,000 mile on my 2006, Doesn't get ridden much, since I bought a KTM 500, and thinking of selling it, but at the mileage, not worth selling, as the motor doesn't burn a drop and reliability is very strong. Its worth more as a piece of machinery , than I could get paid for it. But the forward bias is hard on my old age shoulders.

My 2006 vfr mostly sits for the last 5 years (other than every 2 week gas runs), too much fun on my plated ktm Dirtbike. Even thought the VFR has 115,000 miles, its still in mint running shape, but not worth selling, cost too much to replace. Im not sure what would be an acceptable street bike replacement, even if I did want to trade it. KAW kz 900 is appealing

NOPE dont remove the slave from the sprocket guard (unnecessary), and definitely do not drain the clutch to replace a sprocket

Your problem is not the cat but your mapping , also if you bike is not coming up to full temp quickly it will run richer too

if you have a power loss, then its not the typical tensioner noise while the cct bodies can rattle, there is no power loss associated

That connector is big, I found it not easy and just removed the wires from connector , routed and the reconnected the plug, even that was technique sensitive. I also used the string way, still not simple

the cap is a life time item, if the cap wears, you have other issues

I should mention that Im running a road 2 rear with that m7 front, which will need a replacement model there also (cause I think the road 2 is dead). I like the road 2 for wear and reasonable grip(its the life mainly though) with 4500 mile average life. Its hard for me to find fronts nowadays, cause I only want single compound fronts, and so many are dual stage, which tend to triangulate quickly.

I have all original wiring on my 06 vfr 111,000 miles, while I dont ride the bike a few times per month nowadays(have a KTM 500), all I do is ensure the connectors have a good contact and wd 40 for corrosion. Once the wire is melted its too late, you have to begin this process when the bike is new, and refresh every year. Most dont and end up with damaged wiring.

Feeding the connector through, I removed the wires from the connector, then reinserted after threaded through. Took a little bit to figure out how to do that.